No movement
The next day I decided to try changing the filter & gasket & drain all fluid out with a pump thru the filler tube. The bottom of the pan was clean as could be like someone had done the filter & gasket 60000mies before. So I put filter & gasket on & 1 qt of Pensotin Lv1 started the car & put in 3 more qts before I checked it at operating temp and it was reading over filled ( still no movement when I put in gear) so I dropped the pan again due to my drain plug being froze in place to find no fluid in pan except for the drips from the valve body.
2days later I received an i carsoft mb2 machine & only got 3 codes saying something about the speed sensors which I found were located on conductor plate which I am waiting for now.
I paid a Mercedes Tech $26 on 6ya online mechanics told him my problem & he told me quickly that I needed to replace the transmission.
My question is if I had to replace the transmission wouldn’t I have seen some shavings in the pan & has anyone had something like this happen to them. I really don’t want to replace the transmission but I will.
Thank you in advance for any advice
I am not real transmission savvy so plz excuse my lack of knowledge but I really think that I am just doing something wrong & i want nothing more than for my car to run again.
SOMEBODY PLZ HELP ME !!!!!




Not a huge deal. Just need to bring it back to the correct level.There is a very specific method to drain/replace the fluid. Not everything sits in the pan. A bunch of fluid also sits in the torque converter as well as inside the various hoses and other bits. The torque converter does not have a drain, so a full flush is the only way to replace all the fluid. It's a somewhat involved process.
Iirc the correct volume inside the transmission is around 8L. The pan holds about 2.5L.
A full proper flush involves 14L of fluid, 9L of which is poured down the drain(!).
What I would do is at least try to get the fluid somewhat close to the correct level first. At this point your best bet is to drain the pan maybe 1L at a time first. You'll have to then close the drain bolt and start the car for a minute or two and get the fluid level to shift around to the new "normal". If you have the proper (OEM or aftermarket) MB transmission dipstick then just use the 20C range.
Yes the correct way to measure the fluid is ultimately with the engine idling and at full operating temperature (80C). In your situation I would measure the 20C cold value, then wipe the dipstick and start the car and measure the 20C value again while idling. If this looks correct then warm the car up and do the 80C measurement.
Last edited by slammer111; Jan 3, 2021 at 11:45 PM.




Above a certain level and the fluid starts to go where it's not supposed to go, such as an electrical connector. Also the fluid may start to foam as it hits moving parts it is not supposed to touch.I'm sure your transmission is fine at this point. With that said, have you updated the pilot bushing to the latest version? It's a known leak point. Fluid can wick up the wires and into the TCU (located under the passenger side footwell) and short out the module.
Wow. That is a nice looking wagon.
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Back to my problem the conductor plate & plug came in today so I’ve got it assembled & about to install onto the car but I first decided to check the transmission fluid level before I start, isn’t the dipstick tool supposed to touch the bottom of pan? Mine is not it seems to stop before the valve body? Ok this is how far the tool is sticking out that’s not normal is it?
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Well, at least you realized your mistake before driving out and blowing up the engine.Yes there are 2 fill tubes. Not sure about the V6 but for the I4 they are right next to each other. The giveaway is the special cap with locking tab on the transmission tube.
To answer your question, the transmission fluid dipstick is a generic MB tool, designed for use on different engines. As long as the tip of the tool touches the bottom of the drain pan, the amount of tool sticking out the top doesn't matter.
Not the end of the world for putting the wrong fluid in. Just drain the transmission fluid out of the oil reservoir (can use the drain bolt underneath or suck it up through the tube with a pump) and fill it up. Then run the engine for a few seconds and replace the fluid again. If you're super paranoid then do a 3rd flush.
MB transmission fluid is very specific. Do not just grab the nearest jug at the auto parts store.
MB transmission fluid list
There's also a list for approved engine oil for your car which you can also find on that website.
Last edited by slammer111; Jan 5, 2021 at 06:48 PM.
You'll probably need a new oil filter also
"Engine oil drain bolt torque = 30 Nm per MB shop manual. Oil filter cover = 25 Nm. Do NOT overtighten."



oh well just drain and put new oil in no problem