Loud Rattle Noise on Start-Up - Tensioner?
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2005 C230
Loud Rattle Noise on Start-Up - Tensioner?
After reading a few threads, I'm a the conclusion that I need to replace my tensioner. Hoping you guys chime in. Rattling Sound only occurs on cold start-up. Gets louder when you put it in gear. Noise goes away after a while, I guess when engine warms up.
https://imgur.com/a/no4OJHW
https://imgur.com/a/no4OJHW
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2005 C230
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Pretty sure it's not the timing chain either (the M271 doesn't have a timing belt), as my understanding is it sounds like metal rattling.
Does car have any codes or CEL? Does the car RPM do anything weird when idling during the cold start?
Remove the belt and spin the pulleys one by one to check for problems. While you're at it, I would check the one way alternator pulley. That one is known for seizing up.
Does car have any codes or CEL? Does the car RPM do anything weird when idling during the cold start?
Remove the belt and spin the pulleys one by one to check for problems. While you're at it, I would check the one way alternator pulley. That one is known for seizing up.
Last edited by slammer111; Feb 5, 2021 at 12:29 AM.
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2005 C230
Yes, meant to say chain 
Do they need to be replaced at some point? I'm at around 140k miles.
Had a P020X misfire code that turned out to be a bad ignition coil.
Aside from the sound, I don't notice any unusual idling during the cold start.
I'll observe the car again this weekend and remove the belt to check the pulley.
I pulled this guide, seems to be straight forward. I guess while I'm there, I should check the condition of the belt?
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Alternator.htm
And thank you.
Do they need to be replaced at some point? I'm at around 140k miles. Had a P020X misfire code that turned out to be a bad ignition coil.
Aside from the sound, I don't notice any unusual idling during the cold start.
I'll observe the car again this weekend and remove the belt to check the pulley.
I pulled this guide, seems to be straight forward. I guess while I'm there, I should check the condition of the belt?
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Alternator.htm
And thank you.
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2019 G70 6MT & 2022 Ford Maverick XL
Metallic slapping sound is the timing chain stretch noise.. that is an emergency situation. Happened to my 2005 C230K at about 140,000 miles... 9 years ago.
This does sound like a pulley, and I second the alternator pulley. It can ruin the alternator if it goes wrong.
This does sound like a pulley, and I second the alternator pulley. It can ruin the alternator if it goes wrong.
Last edited by LILBENZ230; Feb 6, 2021 at 01:22 PM.
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Finally gotten around to capture the engine noise. As mentioned, loud rattle sound only occurs on initial start up.
Gets louder when put into gear - here at the 35 second mark - put it in reverse and backed up.
Noise goes away once the engine warms up.
It's been pointed out that it could be the supercharger (shafts?).
https://imgur.com/a/tAzcSvM
Gets louder when put into gear - here at the 35 second mark - put it in reverse and backed up.
Noise goes away once the engine warms up.
It's been pointed out that it could be the supercharger (shafts?).
https://imgur.com/a/tAzcSvM
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2005 C230
I think I found the culprit.
Did a Pulley Inspection Test and hear a slight grinding from first pulley (AC/Compressor?) and third pulley (Supercharger?). I'm not sure if the faint sound is normal. Then the last pulley (Power Steering?) made the loudest rattle. Here is a separate video showing just the Power Steering Pump Pulley
Did a Pulley Inspection Test and hear a slight grinding from first pulley (AC/Compressor?) and third pulley (Supercharger?). I'm not sure if the faint sound is normal. Then the last pulley (Power Steering?) made the loudest rattle. Here is a separate video showing just the Power Steering Pump Pulley
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Hit and miss but change what you need to change.
The alternator pulley is known for seizing up, though that one results in a squeaking noise from the belt.
As for the timing chain, that one seems to be dependent on quite a number of factors. The big one is using the correct viscosity oils.
The other pulleys can definitely fail, but a large chunk of it depends on the fluids used. With that said, can't go wrong with replacing anything that is squeaking or making any other weird noises.
The alternator pulley is known for seizing up, though that one results in a squeaking noise from the belt.
As for the timing chain, that one seems to be dependent on quite a number of factors. The big one is using the correct viscosity oils.
The other pulleys can definitely fail, but a large chunk of it depends on the fluids used. With that said, can't go wrong with replacing anything that is squeaking or making any other weird noises.
Last edited by slammer111; May 5, 2021 at 11:28 PM.
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Power Steering Pump arrives on Friday. Hopefully that fixes the loud rattling sound.
Someone suggested I get a stethoscope so once I get everything back together, I can use it to see where the whining sound is coming from.
Viscosity Oils? Kindly explain. I'm using Mobil 1 European Formula. Marked 229.3/5 approved.
Someone suggested I get a stethoscope so once I get everything back together, I can use it to see where the whining sound is coming from.
Viscosity Oils? Kindly explain. I'm using Mobil 1 European Formula. Marked 229.3/5 approved.
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Some people deviate from the approved MB list of oils, thinking it's some marketing gimmick as a lot of the oils cost a few dollars more. A common one is to use higher viscosity (ie thicker) oils in an effort to curb excessive oil consumption, for example. While there's a good chance there won't be any problems, the non approved oils may not be rated for the same longevity, or may be chemically incompatible with some of the rubber or plastic engine parts. Anecdotally I've heard that deviating from the list is also the cause of a large portion of M271 timing chain failures. The oil is used not only to lubricate the individual chain links, but also to provide the hydraulic pressure for the tensioner.
The M271 engine can actually use MB Approval 229.3, 229.5, 229.51, and 229.52. The approved oil viscosity range is 0W-40, 5W-30, 5W-40, 5W-50, 0W-30, but you won't have to look at this if you stick to the approved oils (as in the ones that say "MB Approval" on the jug), as they will all have the correct viscosity. The listed viscosity is more for those who want to use the unapproved stuff.
Didn't know that the power steering pump is known to go bad on these cars. Are you using the correct MB approved PS fluid?
The M271 engine can actually use MB Approval 229.3, 229.5, 229.51, and 229.52. The approved oil viscosity range is 0W-40, 5W-30, 5W-40, 5W-50, 0W-30, but you won't have to look at this if you stick to the approved oils (as in the ones that say "MB Approval" on the jug), as they will all have the correct viscosity. The listed viscosity is more for those who want to use the unapproved stuff.
Didn't know that the power steering pump is known to go bad on these cars. Are you using the correct MB approved PS fluid?
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Last edited by tjts1; May 6, 2021 at 09:51 PM.
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All I know is I've stuck to the MB approved list and I'm still on my original chain at almost 240k km. Unless I'm doing something wrong. 
With that said, I definitely agree MB shouldn't have used that bicycle chain on these engines. Sticking to the approved stuff might not help, but it sure won't hurt. My understanding is that the MB approved list can handle the intervals as they can handle the additional deposits from the increased change intervals. In this regard I am sure that not every oil out there can hold up.
As for the PS pump, actually my understanding is that different fluids can cause the seals in the system to swell different amounts. Use one that causes the seals to swell more, then switch to one that causes them to swell less, and now there's suddenly a weep or leak. I've had 0 PS problems with my car, so what do I know. Aftermarket fluids are fine, as long as they're the "same" fluid (for example, the Pentosin CHF-11S for the W203 can probably be interchanged with Pentosin CHF-202 or Febi S6161 without issues, even though both are technically not approved by MB for this application). I would never put CHF-7.1 or conventional ATF in the PS system even though some other makes use that stuff.
In the OP's case I assume it's the bearing that went bad. But I imagine a pump seal that has swollen too much can also cause a squeaking sound. Doesn't sound like he has a leak though.
With that said, I definitely agree MB shouldn't have used that bicycle chain on these engines. Sticking to the approved stuff might not help, but it sure won't hurt. My understanding is that the MB approved list can handle the intervals as they can handle the additional deposits from the increased change intervals. In this regard I am sure that not every oil out there can hold up.As for the PS pump, actually my understanding is that different fluids can cause the seals in the system to swell different amounts. Use one that causes the seals to swell more, then switch to one that causes them to swell less, and now there's suddenly a weep or leak. I've had 0 PS problems with my car, so what do I know.
Aftermarket fluids are fine, as long as they're the "same" fluid (for example, the Pentosin CHF-11S for the W203 can probably be interchanged with Pentosin CHF-202 or Febi S6161 without issues, even though both are technically not approved by MB for this application). I would never put CHF-7.1 or conventional ATF in the PS system even though some other makes use that stuff.In the OP's case I assume it's the bearing that went bad. But I imagine a pump seal that has swollen too much can also cause a squeaking sound. Doesn't sound like he has a leak though.
Last edited by slammer111; May 8, 2021 at 05:51 AM.
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Some people deviate from the approved MB list of oils, thinking it's some marketing gimmick as a lot of the oils cost a few dollars more. A common one is to use higher viscosity (ie thicker) oils in an effort to curb excessive oil consumption, for example. While there's a good chance there won't be any problems, the non approved oils may not be rated for the same longevity, or may be chemically incompatible with some of the rubber or plastic engine parts. Anecdotally I've heard that deviating from the list is also the cause of a large portion of M271 timing chain failures. The oil is used not only to lubricate the individual chain links, but also to provide the hydraulic pressure for the tensioner.
The M271 engine can actually use MB Approval 229.3, 229.5, 229.51, and 229.52. The approved oil viscosity range is 0W-40, 5W-30, 5W-40, 5W-50, 0W-30, but you won't have to look at this if you stick to the approved oils (as in the ones that say "MB Approval" on the jug), as they will all have the correct viscosity. The listed viscosity is more for those who want to use the unapproved stuff.
Didn't know that the power steering pump is known to go bad on these cars. Are you using the correct MB approved PS fluid?
The M271 engine can actually use MB Approval 229.3, 229.5, 229.51, and 229.52. The approved oil viscosity range is 0W-40, 5W-30, 5W-40, 5W-50, 0W-30, but you won't have to look at this if you stick to the approved oils (as in the ones that say "MB Approval" on the jug), as they will all have the correct viscosity. The listed viscosity is more for those who want to use the unapproved stuff.
Didn't know that the power steering pump is known to go bad on these cars. Are you using the correct MB approved PS fluid?
Well, the POWER STEERING PUMP came in - bought a rebuilt A1 Cardone. Any experiences with this one?
It did not come with a pulley and this is where I'm having trouble. I can't find a tool that can remove it. I've tried the pulley remover/installer kits as well as the jaw types and can't get them to bite the center. It's also not made of metal so clamping on the outside or grooves is not a possibility as it could break as I've been told. Also tried bringing it to local shops and they have nothing that fits. One MBZ independent shop said he'd charge me $35 to remove and install it but he can't guarantee that it wouldn't break.
Is this a specifc MBZ tool only?
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C320
Didn't know it can get that complicated. I've been using MB approved oil ever since. Same with the PS Fluid.
Well, the POWER STEERING PUMP came in - bought a rebuilt A1 Cardone. Any experiences with this one?
It did not come with a pulley and this is where I'm having trouble. I can't find a tool that can remove it. I've tried the pulley remover/installer kits as well as the jaw types and can't get them to bite the center. It's also not made of metal so clamping on the outside or grooves is not a possibility as it could break as I've been told. Also tried bringing it to local shops and they have nothing that fits. One MBZ independent shop said he'd charge me $35 to remove and install it but he can't guarantee that it wouldn't break.
Is this a specifc MBZ tool only?
Well, the POWER STEERING PUMP came in - bought a rebuilt A1 Cardone. Any experiences with this one?
It did not come with a pulley and this is where I'm having trouble. I can't find a tool that can remove it. I've tried the pulley remover/installer kits as well as the jaw types and can't get them to bite the center. It's also not made of metal so clamping on the outside or grooves is not a possibility as it could break as I've been told. Also tried bringing it to local shops and they have nothing that fits. One MBZ independent shop said he'd charge me $35 to remove and install it but he can't guarantee that it wouldn't break.
Is this a specifc MBZ tool only?
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2005 C230
Yes, pump is making a Power Steering Pump Pulley Rattle. There could also be other pulleys causing the squeaking or high pitched sound. Bought a CARDONE rebuilt pump that did not come with a pulley.
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ML350
I did think like you. Did all the recommended shorten oil change interval to 6 months and 5000km max. Stick to MB approved oil list. Flush the engine … . Engine ran very smooth at 249 000km still last week. The gear just sudden gone. It will be new engine or ditch the car. It is strongly recommend to have your engine’s timing chain check. It is probably very close to catastrophic failure.
