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Oil cooler line broken bolt hole

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Old Oct 29, 2021 | 02:05 PM
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C240
Oil cooler line broken bolt hole

Hi everyone,

So I attempted to reinstall the banjo bolt of the oil cooler line to the transmission and the metal essentially broke away from it. I've attached a picture. What would be best here? Some sort of time sert? TIA


Image

https://ibb.co/MfYHJbn
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Old Oct 29, 2021 | 02:35 PM
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Since the metal broke away in 2 pieces, I figured I could JB weld them back together than do the same to the transmission and get the banjo bolt back in there well enough to halt leaks
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Old Oct 29, 2021 | 06:38 PM
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Why not just replace the part? Hopefully you're close to a dealer.
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Old Jan 11, 2022 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by slammer111
Why not just replace the part? Hopefully you're close to a dealer.
Well that would necessitate dropping the transmission. The dealer will charge a hefty tag for that, and I just got finished putting the engine back together. A less expensive/invasive course of action is preferred, however obviously not at the expense of quality.
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Old Jan 11, 2022 | 01:42 PM
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Any other thoughts? The JB weld didn't do much as on startup the piece came right off. I'm thinking TIG welding if there are no other viable options.
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Old Jan 11, 2022 | 02:04 PM
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Bit of a dumb question but I can't see where the problem is. Are you talking about the metal shavings inside the banjo screw threads? Or did a chunk of the transmission housing break clean off? The photo doesn't show the hole where the banjo screw threads in. It's covered by the shield.

Last edited by slammer111; Jan 12, 2022 at 12:18 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2022 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by slammer111
Bit of a dumb question but I can't see where the problem is. Are you talking about the metal shavings inside the banjo screw threads? Or did a chunk of the transmission housing break clean off? The photo doesn't show the hole where the banjo screw threads in. It's covered by the shield.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, there's a small chunk that broke off in a singular piece. It covers the exposed threading on the banjo bolt. TIA
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Old Jan 13, 2022 | 02:21 AM
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OUCH!
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

So, you need to fix the hole for the banjo bolt on the side of the tranny?
Such as, the transmission fluid hole, that is capped by a red fitting on the following photo:



https://ibb.co/df6JRMV


Well, bad news and good news.
The bad news, forget about fixing that hole.
The banjo bolt needs adequate torque to seat properly. And, the banjo bolt must also be square to the hole. Otherwise, the force of the bolt on the flare will be lopsided and it will leak.

You can't MIG or TIG that piece back. A proper weld has the weld go all of the way through the metal, on both sides. If the crack wasn't fully welded, then the crack would grow over time. Plus, since it's aluminum, it has "high" expansion and contraction rates, that are not perfectly matched with the weld material. There's not enough "meat" on the external piece, to be able to handle a different expansion/contraction rate at the crack/weld point.


The "good news" is that "only the bell housing" has to be replaced.

22.6 Bellhousing Swap & Reassembly
Gary Ferraro

Needless to say, this is something that has to be done by a transmission shop.



Good Luck!

Last edited by RedGray; Jan 13, 2022 at 02:25 AM.
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Old Jan 13, 2022 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by RedGray
OUCH!
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

So, you need to fix the hole for the banjo bolt on the side of the tranny?
Such as, the transmission fluid hole, that is capped by a red fitting on the following photo:



https://ibb.co/df6JRMV


Well, bad news and good news.
The bad news, forget about fixing that hole.
The banjo bolt needs adequate torque to seat properly. And, the banjo bolt must also be square to the hole. Otherwise, the force of the bolt on the flare will be lopsided and it will leak.

You can't MIG or TIG that piece back. A proper weld has the weld go all of the way through the metal, on both sides. If the crack wasn't fully welded, then the crack would grow over time. Plus, since it's aluminum, it has "high" expansion and contraction rates, that are not perfectly matched with the weld material. There's not enough "meat" on the external piece, to be able to handle a different expansion/contraction rate at the crack/weld point.


The "good news" is that "only the bell housing" has to be replaced.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtI3IpMcuqg
22.6 Bellhousing Swap & Reassembly
Gary Ferraro

Needless to say, this is something that has to be done by a transmission shop.



Good Luck!
Oy vey Red. Thank you so much for the thorough reply!
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