What temperature does your W204 run at? What is normal running temperature?
11-01-2007, 01:03 PM
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LOADED 08' C350 & 14' GLK-350 Diamond White (P1, MM, AMG Pkg, Ln Trkng, Htd Sts, Keylss Go)
What temperature does your W204 run at? What is normal running temperature?
Ok, I think I may have another problem with my 4 day old c350...
Most temperature gauges usually hover right smack in the middle... So that would be 80 degrees celsius on the w204...
my vehicle has a constand running temperature of above the middle of the gauge and is ALWAYS at 90-92 degrees max during normal driving...
Is this normal? Very curious to see what other new 204 owners can report about their normal running temperature...
I called MB roadside to ask them and they said it was normal but on the higher side... Just the needle being past half way on the gauge looked high to me...
the temperature outdoors when I have noticed this has been about 65 degrees fahrenheit, so this shouldnt be the reason, and I was driving the vehicle very conservative...
Most temperature gauges usually hover right smack in the middle... So that would be 80 degrees celsius on the w204...
my vehicle has a constand running temperature of above the middle of the gauge and is ALWAYS at 90-92 degrees max during normal driving...
Is this normal? Very curious to see what other new 204 owners can report about their normal running temperature...
I called MB roadside to ask them and they said it was normal but on the higher side... Just the needle being past half way on the gauge looked high to me...
the temperature outdoors when I have noticed this has been about 65 degrees fahrenheit, so this shouldnt be the reason, and I was driving the vehicle very conservative...
11-01-2007, 01:13 PM
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LOADED 08' C350 & 14' GLK-350 Diamond White (P1, MM, AMG Pkg, Ln Trkng, Htd Sts, Keylss Go)
If a few more people can confirm then I think I can conclude that this is normal...
11-01-2007, 02:25 PM
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red bicycle
BTW, the gauge reads slightly above the middle in my 1996 C220.
Last edited by whatup?; 11-02-2007 at 08:29 AM.
11-01-2007, 02:47 PM
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LOADED 08' C350 & 14' GLK-350 Diamond White (P1, MM, AMG Pkg, Ln Trkng, Htd Sts, Keylss Go)
I believe the gauge is an actual temperature gauge, not a gauge that simply reads low, normal, hot (where normal will be in the middle). The gauge is probably calibrated so that "normal" is somewhere above the middle.
BTW, the gauge reads slightly above the middle in my 1996 C220.
BTW, the gauge reads slightly above the middle in my 1996 C220.
That is my question... dont want to be running hotter than necessary on a brand new car...
11-01-2007, 03:14 PM
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c300
All the newer cars I've been in have the temp guage showing a little above halfway. I'm wondering if there was some mandated switch to having guages measure actual temp, or if the manufacturers did that themselves?
I had someone tell me that the newer ECUs have control over the thermostats and can vary engine temps to improve performance and fuel economy ... don't know if it's true or not.
I had someone tell me that the newer ECUs have control over the thermostats and can vary engine temps to improve performance and fuel economy ... don't know if it's true or not.
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11-02-2007, 12:00 AM
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'08 C300 Lux Barolo Red Beige Leather P2 MM 18" wheels '84 944
Water temp
80-90 deg c is entirely normal. Stop obsessing about this.
The car does not have an engine driven cooling fan. You have looked under the hood, I hope. The large electric fan mounted on the back of the radiator is a variable speed unit controlled by the engine "computer". When more cooling is needed (hot day, long upgrade, AC on high, whatever) the fan speeds up to pull more air through the radiator and AC condenser.
Further (to correct a few confused posts), the AC compressor (only one, for God's sake) is a clutchless swashplate design which is far from new technology. When the AC calls for a lower temp, the flow of refrigerant is increased through the compressor by varying the internal vanes rather than engage a clutch which was used formerly. That is why you will never feel the AC compressor cut in or out. Further, compressor refrigerant flow is increased or decreased slowly and this is the reason why even when AC is manually shut off, cool air flows for a while. This type of compressor was also used in the W203 and others.
The car does not have an engine driven cooling fan. You have looked under the hood, I hope. The large electric fan mounted on the back of the radiator is a variable speed unit controlled by the engine "computer". When more cooling is needed (hot day, long upgrade, AC on high, whatever) the fan speeds up to pull more air through the radiator and AC condenser.
Further (to correct a few confused posts), the AC compressor (only one, for God's sake) is a clutchless swashplate design which is far from new technology. When the AC calls for a lower temp, the flow of refrigerant is increased through the compressor by varying the internal vanes rather than engage a clutch which was used formerly. That is why you will never feel the AC compressor cut in or out. Further, compressor refrigerant flow is increased or decreased slowly and this is the reason why even when AC is manually shut off, cool air flows for a while. This type of compressor was also used in the W203 and others.
11-02-2007, 12:42 AM
#9
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80-90 deg c is entirely normal. Stop obsessing about this.
The car does not have an engine driven cooling fan. You have looked under the hood, I hope. The large electric fan mounted on the back of the radiator is a variable speed unit controlled by the engine "computer". When more cooling is needed (hot day, long upgrade, AC on high, whatever) the fan speeds up to pull more air through the radiator and AC condenser.
Further (to correct a few confused posts), the AC compressor (only one, for God's sake) is a clutchless swashplate design which is far from new technology. When the AC calls for a lower temp, the flow of refrigerant is increased through the compressor by varying the internal vanes rather than engage a clutch which was used formerly. That is why you will never feel the AC compressor cut in or out. Further, compressor refrigerant flow is increased or decreased slowly and this is the reason why even when AC is manually shut off, cool air flows for a while. This type of compressor was also used in the W203 and others.
The car does not have an engine driven cooling fan. You have looked under the hood, I hope. The large electric fan mounted on the back of the radiator is a variable speed unit controlled by the engine "computer". When more cooling is needed (hot day, long upgrade, AC on high, whatever) the fan speeds up to pull more air through the radiator and AC condenser.
Further (to correct a few confused posts), the AC compressor (only one, for God's sake) is a clutchless swashplate design which is far from new technology. When the AC calls for a lower temp, the flow of refrigerant is increased through the compressor by varying the internal vanes rather than engage a clutch which was used formerly. That is why you will never feel the AC compressor cut in or out. Further, compressor refrigerant flow is increased or decreased slowly and this is the reason why even when AC is manually shut off, cool air flows for a while. This type of compressor was also used in the W203 and others.
So does this mean that we dont loose horsepower when we use the A/C and we dont gain when we turn it off
11-02-2007, 01:24 AM
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'08 C300 Lux Barolo Red Beige Leather P2 MM 18" wheels '84 944
AC power requirements
<<So does this mean that we don't lose horsepower when we use the A/C and we don't gain when we turn it off>>
No, it does not. It still costs power to pump the refrigerant. It's just that the compressor doesn't go from zero rpm to full speed in an instant like those older compressors with electric clutches which you can hear and feel cut in and out.
It seems reasonable to think that the newest compressors require less power but I've never seen any numbers to back that up.
No, it does not. It still costs power to pump the refrigerant. It's just that the compressor doesn't go from zero rpm to full speed in an instant like those older compressors with electric clutches which you can hear and feel cut in and out.
It seems reasonable to think that the newest compressors require less power but I've never seen any numbers to back that up.
11-02-2007, 09:48 AM
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'14 GLK250 Diesel
Yeah, I have to agree that some of this seems like a bit of arm-waving...
Our C300 settles at 90C, whether the outside temp is 35F or 115F, with the AC on or off, with or without Martians in the trunk. This is the operating temp of these engines - and isn't much different from the 3-valves that preceded them [like our 2.6 W203 C240]. Is there some reason why this keeps coming up?
Our C300 settles at 90C, whether the outside temp is 35F or 115F, with the AC on or off, with or without Martians in the trunk. This is the operating temp of these engines - and isn't much different from the 3-valves that preceded them [like our 2.6 W203 C240]. Is there some reason why this keeps coming up?
11-02-2007, 01:08 PM
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2008 C350
11-05-2007, 01:07 PM
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I live in Southern California
and mine runs 80 all the time.. If it ran above that I would be worried if you plan on keeping the car. Once mine started consistently running above 80 and I took it in and had the sensor replaced on the cooling fan. After that, it was back down to 80 again
11-05-2007, 01:22 PM
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2008 C350
Are you referring to your CLK or a W204 C?
11-05-2007, 01:23 PM
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2011 E350 4Matic Wagon, 2013 C350 4Matic Sedan
Mine's been running at around 85... I plan on asking when I bring it in for my first oil-change but at this point I am not worried.
11-05-2007, 03:44 PM
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'14 GLK250 Diesel
You folks REALLY NEED TO RELAX ABOUT THIS. The temp readings are an APPROXIMATION. This is not a digital gauge. You're setting yourselves up to worry about something that's working just fine.
The drivetrain in this car is the closest thing to the most bullet-proof aspect of it. Just keep an eye on your oil consumption, and don't overdo it during the break-in period. A seriously broken cooling system will make itself known quickly and obviously. The difference between 80 and 90C is not worth obsessing about.
The one thing to pay attention to is a big CHANGE in operating temp; if your car usually runs at 90C, and is suddenly stuck at 75C or pushing 100C, then it's time to take it in for a look-see...and even then, ONLY if it persists over a long enough time to be significant.
Ours never budges from just a hair short of 90C on this ANALOG gauge - and it's been run with ambient temps outside as high as 115F and as low as 30F. Once it's warm, it just never wavers more than a degree or two, no matter what's happening inside or outside. If you have real fluctuations that can't be explained, well, then go ask the service people...otherwise, relax and enjoy....
The drivetrain in this car is the closest thing to the most bullet-proof aspect of it. Just keep an eye on your oil consumption, and don't overdo it during the break-in period. A seriously broken cooling system will make itself known quickly and obviously. The difference between 80 and 90C is not worth obsessing about.
The one thing to pay attention to is a big CHANGE in operating temp; if your car usually runs at 90C, and is suddenly stuck at 75C or pushing 100C, then it's time to take it in for a look-see...and even then, ONLY if it persists over a long enough time to be significant.
Ours never budges from just a hair short of 90C on this ANALOG gauge - and it's been run with ambient temps outside as high as 115F and as low as 30F. Once it's warm, it just never wavers more than a degree or two, no matter what's happening inside or outside. If you have real fluctuations that can't be explained, well, then go ask the service people...otherwise, relax and enjoy....
Last edited by jrct9454; 11-05-2007 at 03:49 PM.
11-05-2007, 04:15 PM
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LOADED 08' C350 & 14' GLK-350 Diamond White (P1, MM, AMG Pkg, Ln Trkng, Htd Sts, Keylss Go)
You folks REALLY NEED TO RELAX ABOUT THIS. The temp readings are an APPROXIMATION. This is not a digital gauge. You're setting yourselves up to worry about something that's working just fine.
The drivetrain in this car is the closest thing to the most bullet-proof aspect of it. Just keep an eye on your oil consumption, and don't overdo it during the break-in period. A seriously broken cooling system will make itself known quickly and obviously. The difference between 80 and 90C is not worth obsessing about.
The one thing to pay attention to is a big CHANGE in operating temp; if your car usually runs at 90C, and is suddenly stuck at 75C or pushing 100C, then it's time to take it in for a look-see...and even then, ONLY if it persists over a long enough time to be significant.
Ours never budges from just a hair short of 90C on this ANALOG gauge - and it's been run with ambient temps outside as high as 115F and as low as 30F. Once it's warm, it just never wavers more than a degree or two, no matter what's happening inside or outside. If you have real fluctuations that can't be explained, well, then go ask the service people...otherwise, relax and enjoy....
The drivetrain in this car is the closest thing to the most bullet-proof aspect of it. Just keep an eye on your oil consumption, and don't overdo it during the break-in period. A seriously broken cooling system will make itself known quickly and obviously. The difference between 80 and 90C is not worth obsessing about.
The one thing to pay attention to is a big CHANGE in operating temp; if your car usually runs at 90C, and is suddenly stuck at 75C or pushing 100C, then it's time to take it in for a look-see...and even then, ONLY if it persists over a long enough time to be significant.
Ours never budges from just a hair short of 90C on this ANALOG gauge - and it's been run with ambient temps outside as high as 115F and as low as 30F. Once it's warm, it just never wavers more than a degree or two, no matter what's happening inside or outside. If you have real fluctuations that can't be explained, well, then go ask the service people...otherwise, relax and enjoy....
11-05-2007, 05:07 PM
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2008 c300 luxury, P2, MM, Capri Blue Metallic
I'm around 85-90 as well; plus, its cold in chicagoland already, so that may have something to do with it!
I wouldnt go 100 mph during break in, dude...
I wouldnt go 100 mph during break in, dude...
11-05-2007, 07:42 PM
#24
W204
My wifes new car. Just spoke to the mech that worked on it. Said it is a setting in the diagnostics to have it run a little cooler. Said normal is in the 85-90 range.
11-05-2007, 08:18 PM
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LOADED 08' C350 & 14' GLK-350 Diamond White (P1, MM, AMG Pkg, Ln Trkng, Htd Sts, Keylss Go)
2/3 * 8000 max rpms on the tachometer = 5,333.33 RPMS is the max I should ever get close to while in the break in period...
Is that the correct reasoning as to what 2/3 actually means? or did I read that wrong... not going over 5,333 rpms during breakin isnt that hard....
all you have to do is avoid flooring it, thats about it...
please correct me if I am wrong?
