Anyone who has tried to use the wheel wrench in the factory toolkit knows how nearly useless it is. The way to make wheel installations easier is to purchase, in 1/2 drive, the three tools shown in the photo. These three items probably cost (at Sears) about $20.00.

17mm deep socket
6" extension
14" swivel bar

Don't forget the extension breaker bar to get them loose in the first place. And then the torque wrench to get the correct value afterwards.

<<Don't forget the extension breaker bar to get them loose in the first place.>>

Since it's described and is in the photo, I can't figure out why you made this post.

Because depending on how long the wheels have been on 14" might not be enough for ease of removal. In that case longer is better.

I don't know about you guys, but in CA, the freeways and roads are far too dangerous to be changing your tires on your own. The shoulders are too narrow, the freeways are running too fast on the slow lanes, and most of all, I'm not going to count on the potentially few hundred cars that pass you to be the safest drivers in the world.

I dunno - it just seems like it ain't worth losing my life over changing a tire.
I end up calling Roadside Assistance...at least they will park a big-*** yellow truck behind the car with it's lights rolling while the attendant changes my tire.

Sorry, I didn't mean to threadjack. Just lookin' out...

I loved this. ha-ha. I agree too. Some places have even less run offs than CA, trust me. However, you never know, I have been in places where there was room, and it was safe to change the tire.

Appreciate the thread, for thought. Maybe I should get this tuff.

Like hell I was going to change my own damn tire on the 405 freeway in Santa Monica lol. Pulled over, called MBUSA roadside and they got towed to the dealer so he could install a new tire. Stupid tire in a can wouldn't work, sidewall was busted.

For those who drive outside metropolitan areas, this 3-piece setup may be what gets you out of a significant extra-city bind. I've carried a 21" bar for years and once that almost wasn't enough. Now I always check my lug nuts/bolts after somebody has worked on my car. One suggestion - get an impact socket. I've split Craftsman nonimpact sockets on wheel lugs. Yes, I got a free replacement no question asked.

Sorry, no substitute for a mid-priced torque wrench - no need for breaker bars, etc.

I just bought another for about $50 online [so I can carry one in each car] - that and the appropriate socket is all you need.

Failing to properly torque the wheel bolts after changing a wheel can result in brake rotor warping....which is why I started carrying a decent torque wrench over 20 years ago in all our cars.

AND.... I never drive away from the dealer or a tire shop without checking all the bolts for correct torque with my torque wrench - then you never have to worry about not being able to get a bolt loosened later.

I thought I was the only "crazy" person who did that.

[QUOTE=jrct9454;2619998]Sorry, no substitute for a mid-priced torque wrench - no need for breaker bars, etc. I just bought another for about $50 online [so I can carry one in each car] - that and the appropriate socket is all you need.>>

You never loosen a fastener with a torque wrench unless you want to ruin it.

+1 I'm with you on this issue!

Anyone know the tq specs for our lugbolts?

96 ft-lbs. [Up significantly from the W203....]

And I've been using a torque wrench to both loosen and tighten the wheel bolts on all our cars for the past 20 years, and have never damaged the wrench. I've calibrated our wrench against those used by our regular tire shop, and we're always within about 4-5% [within the accuracy guarantee of the tool maker].

In any case, the ABSOLUTE torque number is much less important than getting all five bolts torqued to the same number - it's the variance around the five bolts that can cause rotor warpage. The difference between having all five at 90 ft-lbs or all five at 100 ft-lbs is not going to hurt anything, but having one or two bolts significantly different is a recipe for a ruined rotor.

Thanks. I always use a torque wrench too. I haven't messed around with it yet, but what size socket is it?

what is this torque wrench you guys were talking about again? so, it isn't safe to change the wheels using the wrench that came with the car?

Thanks

Holy thread revival, Batman!
I haven't had any issues doing this too.

I also carry around a low range torque wrench (for other things around the car/home) since I can't rely on the high range ones doing a proper job in the low end.

No one has mentioned a little grease on the threads

anyone care to explain?

Thanks

The tools provided by any car manufacture are safe to use for emergencies only

you can safely get the wheel back on but you really need to confirm that each bolt is torqued correctly sooner rather than later. If they are different, it is likely to cause your brake rotors to warp (especially once you get them hot as they are much more likely to warp when cooling down) A properly torqued wheel will almost ensure never having to deal with warped rotors.

and how do I do that?

Thanks

By using a tool called a 'torque wrench' which will tighten nuts or bolts to a pre-set torque or tightness. These tools come in different torque ranges & it is best to use the one which fits the mid range of the application. They are a precision tool so it is best that they are used & cared for properly. They are not normally used for loosening bolts.

See Wikipedia :-

http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache...lnk&cd=1&gl=au

how much is it, and where could I get one? what brand?

I just need one that is not too expensive, but will do the job perfectly..

Thanks for the help guys. I already used the wrench that came with the car yesterday, to take off one of the wheels. I don't want to damage the rotor or anything like that.

17mm