SOLUTION FOR REAR DOOR PINS (NEED ONE)
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LOADED 08' C350 & 14' GLK-350 Diamond White (P1, MM, AMG Pkg, Ln Trkng, Htd Sts, Keylss Go)
SOLUTION FOR REAR DOOR PINS (NEED ONE)
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
anyway, what is the solution to getting some good looking after market pins on the rear?
both of mine already broke off and are just sitting on top of the inner pins unsecured...
anybody done it yet? or has everyone just got the dealer to re put in stock pins under warranty repair???
I was trying to pull out the inner screw threads on my other 2 carbon/chrome/star pins so they would fit over the rear pin studs, but have had no luck so far...
any other ideas???
the air tubing mentioned earlier does not work at all by the way... the problem is that the inner screw thread casing causes the opening to be too small on the rear pins, so it doesnt even go down over the stud 1/3 of the way
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
#2
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I considered the CF pins but the rears is what stopped me (no way to modify fitment). The dealership replaced mine twice. The first time- they broke off again. The second time- I planned on replacing them and could barely pull them off. The plastic pins seemed to be stronger material and did not crack when removed. It appears they addressed the issue.
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2013 C300 Sport Black Darth V3.0
I don't have the carbon wrapped ones mine are all metal and I drilled the threads out before putting the airline on as I said it sits about the same height as the OEM ones when locked.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/Ron_Jr/C300/_DSC5724.jpg)
Locked
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/Ron_Jr/C300/_DSC5725.jpg)
Unlocked
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/Ron_Jr/C300/_DSC5724.jpg)
Locked
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/Ron_Jr/C300/_DSC5725.jpg)
Unlocked
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2009 C300 Sport 6MT
I considered the CF pins but the rears is what stopped me (no way to modify fitment). The dealership replaced mine twice. The first time- they broke off again. The second time- I planned on replacing them and could barely pull them off. The plastic pins seemed to be stronger material and did not crack when removed. It appears they addressed the issue.
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push pedal bicycle & '08 C 350
ron jr, how exactly did you get those on in the back? i read you post on it in another thread, but it is still unclear in my head.
1. what method did you use to remove the OEM rear?
2. once removed, you used the tubing to insert it into what?
3. drill out the threads on the new pins then insert?
1. what method did you use to remove the OEM rear?
2. once removed, you used the tubing to insert it into what?
3. drill out the threads on the new pins then insert?
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Mercedes C300 Sport, BMW 745Li, VW Mk6 Golf TDI
ron jr, how exactly did you get those on in the back? i read you post on it in another thread, but it is still unclear in my head.
1. what method did you use to remove the OEM rear?
2. once removed, you used the tubing to insert it into what?
3. drill out the threads on the new pins then insert?
1. what method did you use to remove the OEM rear?
2. once removed, you used the tubing to insert it into what?
3. drill out the threads on the new pins then insert?
First you have to just pop the oem rear pins, either break it accidentally or intentionally. This should give you access to the inner stem. The replacement pins are just hallow tubes with threading on the top part for the screws. This will need to be drilled out so you have a full hallow tube from top to bottom. Now you can insert your rubber tubing through the hallow. Then insert the inner stem through the tubing which should tighten up and hopefully hold the pin to the stem tightly.
The problem with the CF ones is it looks to be two piece with the chrome top cap attached to the CF tube and I worry that drilling out the threading might also loosen the top cap to the tube, essentially breaking the pin.
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push pedal bicycle & '08 C 350
i guess that is where my misunderstanding came in.
i thought when the oem pins in the rear break that the cable it attaches to hangs loosely. but from what you say it seems when the pins break the cable is still held in place by some sort of clamp letting you apply pressure with the new pin?
i might just buy the pins and use the fronts and when the backs eventually break i can try out the ron jr technique.
i thought when the oem pins in the rear break that the cable it attaches to hangs loosely. but from what you say it seems when the pins break the cable is still held in place by some sort of clamp letting you apply pressure with the new pin?
i might just buy the pins and use the fronts and when the backs eventually break i can try out the ron jr technique.
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2013 C300 Sport Black Darth V3.0
Ron and correct me if I'm wrong, but here's my understanding...
First you have to just pop the oem rear pins, either break it accidentally or intentionally. This should give you access to the inner stem. The replacement pins are just hallow tubes with threading on the top part for the screws. This will need to be drilled out so you have a full hallow tube from top to bottom. Now you can insert your rubber tubing through the hallow. Then insert the inner stem through the tubing which should tighten up and hopefully hold the pin to the stem tightly.
The problem with the CF ones is it looks to be two piece with the chrome top cap attached to the CF tube and I worry that drilling out the threading might also loosen the top cap to the tube, essentially breaking the pin.
First you have to just pop the oem rear pins, either break it accidentally or intentionally. This should give you access to the inner stem. The replacement pins are just hallow tubes with threading on the top part for the screws. This will need to be drilled out so you have a full hallow tube from top to bottom. Now you can insert your rubber tubing through the hallow. Then insert the inner stem through the tubing which should tighten up and hopefully hold the pin to the stem tightly.
The problem with the CF ones is it looks to be two piece with the chrome top cap attached to the CF tube and I worry that drilling out the threading might also loosen the top cap to the tube, essentially breaking the pin.
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08-C350 black/black
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LOADED 08' C350 & 14' GLK-350 Diamond White (P1, MM, AMG Pkg, Ln Trkng, Htd Sts, Keylss Go)
what size bit did you use?
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LOADED 08' C350 & 14' GLK-350 Diamond White (P1, MM, AMG Pkg, Ln Trkng, Htd Sts, Keylss Go)
Ron and correct me if I'm wrong, but here's my understanding...
The problem with the CF ones is it looks to be two piece with the chrome top cap attached to the CF tube and I worry that drilling out the threading might also loosen the top cap to the tube, essentially breaking the pin.
The problem with the CF ones is it looks to be two piece with the chrome top cap attached to the CF tube and I worry that drilling out the threading might also loosen the top cap to the tube, essentially breaking the pin.
i think i might try this tomorrow, if it goes bad oh well there goes 30 bucks
i will update after i try
id say chances are slim though that it will stay in one piece...
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yeah, you have to see the inside of the pin to really understand how the pieces work together. You'd be drilling the top cap piece in essence and not even touching the tube part.
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LOADED 08' C350 & 14' GLK-350 Diamond White (P1, MM, AMG Pkg, Ln Trkng, Htd Sts, Keylss Go)
would make sense...
BTW, where you an engineer at in the san gabriel valley area?
curious, cus I work for a big oil and gas engineering company around the same area...
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And no, I never worked in San Gabriel Valley. When I was living back in the OC, worked out of the naval warfare center in Corona.