35w or 55w HID kit????

Be careful the 50-55W will cause eye damage, don't look directly at them when illuminated. At night the reflectors on the street, are so bright they hurt your eyes, but on a dark highway nothing is better.
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if you install 35w bulbs on 55w ballast, no doubt your bulb will be burnt...
55w kits tend to wash out some of the color of the HID bulb due to the light output
so that a 55w 8000k will look similar in color to a 35w 6000k kit...
i highly recommend you to read the difference between them before you get the right hid kit
http://www.vvme.com/page.html?chapter=1&id=33
if you install 35w bulbs on 55w ballast, no doubt your bulb will be burnt...
55w kits tend to wash out some of the color of the HID bulb due to the light output
so that a 55w 8000k will look similar in color to a 35w 6000k kit...
i highly recommend you to read the difference between them before you get the right hid kit
http://www.vvme.com/page.html?chapter=1&id=33
That said, 35w bulbs *SHOULD* theoretically last longer, but I would rather sacrifice some of the longevity (35w bulbs have been known to last for 4+years) for extra brightness, these bulbs are very cheap to replace too, and they have a lifetime warranty... So why not go 55w? I have the tint color lamin-x on my headlights and the output sucked on stock bulbs, no I see great and shines right through them. The heat "misconception" is a non-issue. The lamin-x film on my headlights is never more than warm to the touch after 2-3 hours of nighttime driving. As opposed to the stock halogens that would get the film so hot I would be concerned about cracking of the glass...
Just make sure you get the digital slim ballast kit, and not the apexcone. It is $10 more, but it is worth it. My friend had the apexcone and his flicker and throw errors. My digital slim ballast are really small, never flicker, always turn on the first time and I don't need the relay harness or error canceler as it is 55w.
That said, 35w bulbs *SHOULD* theoretically last longer, but I would rather sacrifice some of the longevity (35w bulbs have been known to last for 4+years) for extra brightness, these bulbs are very cheap to replace too, and they have a lifetime warranty... So why not go 55w? I have the tint color lamin-x on my headlights and the output sucked on stock bulbs, no I see great and shines right through them. The heat "misconception" is a non-issue. The lamin-x film on my headlights is never more than warm to the touch after 2-3 hours of nighttime driving. As opposed to the stock halogens that would get the film so hot I would be concerned about cracking of the glass...
Just make sure you get the digital slim ballast kit, and not the apexcone. It is $10 more, but it is worth it. My friend had the apexcone and his flicker and throw errors. My digital slim ballast are really small, never flicker, always turn on the first time and I don't need the relay harness or error canceler as it is 55w.

yep, whether you use 35w or 55w has nothing to do with your bulbs....
as for most cars , if 35w can work well , then 55w can work on your car lights too and 55w make your headlights more brighter .....
however, it only matters that you choose 55w ballast but not you must choose digital ballast... anyhow, 55w digital ballast is better choice, i think..
if your car has auto computer system (can-bus system), and some can-bus system restrict you only can install 35w kit, then if you install 55w kit the system will send out error info... if your can-bus system doesnt have limit about 35w or 55w, you can choose 55w kit with 55w digital ballast to make ur headlights more bright......
that is my idea...sorry, it seems a little mess.....
anyhow, if u want to experience 55W HID kits for more lighting power, just go in for it with a relay harness or capacitor...
what the capacitor do is store energy and help to regulate the voltage. So when you connect the capacitor in parallel with the relay it regulate the current and stabilize the voltage allowing the
relay to get a stable 12V voltage.....
Relay harness for direct connection between the ballast and the battery so that the HID conversion kit draws power directly from the battery to protect the stock harness...



no-no!
