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DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures
#501
MBWorld Fanatic!
Well, I have been changing oil on cars for about 30 years..and modified and raced cars.....so I am doing it the way I know is correct and easy for me and I know works. I consider it the right way....the car was built with an oil bolt for a reason. But if you want to do some girl pump method because its easier....and it works for you then go for it...
One of these days I'll get around to draining the oil by way of the plug, and then seeing how much oil (if any) I extract afterwards using the extracter. If this thread is to be believed, then I should be able to further pump out more oil. I'll reserve judgement until I do it that way.
And just because something has been done for 30 years doesn't mean it's the best way or the most efficient way anymore. Surely common sense can prevail here without bringing up examples.
Last edited by superangrypenguin; 04-23-2017 at 12:22 PM.
#502
Agree to disagree. The WIS itself and the dealers extract by way of the extractor. The oil bolt probably exists b/c most customers don't go to a dealer after their warranty has expired.
One of these days I'll get around to draining the oil by way of the plug, and then seeing how much oil (if any) I extract afterwards using the extracter. If this thread is to be believed, then I should be able to further pump out more oil. I'll reserve judgement until I do it that way.
And just because something has been done for 30 years doesn't mean it's the best way or the most efficient way anymore. Surely common sense can prevail here without bringing up examples.
One of these days I'll get around to draining the oil by way of the plug, and then seeing how much oil (if any) I extract afterwards using the extracter. If this thread is to be believed, then I should be able to further pump out more oil. I'll reserve judgement until I do it that way.
And just because something has been done for 30 years doesn't mean it's the best way or the most efficient way anymore. Surely common sense can prevail here without bringing up examples.
#503
MBWorld Fanatic!
#504
Super Member
#505
Super Member
In fact when using the drain method, and with my obsessing over wanting for the very last drop of oil to drain out, it took me 3 times as long to drain as it does to eztraxt!
#506
Senior Member
#507
Jack on differential, up to level....easy. I personally have race ramps and some rear wheel roll up race ramps so its level ...
Seriously, the bottom line is ....the pump method is ..
Last edited by St.Christopher; 04-23-2017 at 08:44 PM.
#508
MBWorld Fanatic!
#509
Member
Thanks Mercedes-Benz for having an oil filter on top, so I don't have to crawl under the car to change it. This is the a big reason I extract oil instead of draining.
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superangrypenguin (04-24-2017)
#510
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 21
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2006 C230 and 2014 C250
Neaderthals
Neanderthals had their habits, then folks thought the world was flat, then people went to the moon!
Now cars with top removable oil filters can have their oil changed from the top with an oil extractor.
No mess, no fuss. No removing bottom plastic, no replacing crush washers.
Welcome to the 2000's.
I love it on my german cars. My F350 is done from the bottom so i guess i can go both ways.
Not married to either, but I sure enjoy doing it from the top!
T
Now cars with top removable oil filters can have their oil changed from the top with an oil extractor.
No mess, no fuss. No removing bottom plastic, no replacing crush washers.
Welcome to the 2000's.
I love it on my german cars. My F350 is done from the bottom so i guess i can go both ways.
Not married to either, but I sure enjoy doing it from the top!
T
#511
MBWorld Fanatic!
Just wondered when you top suckers inspect your underside :-
i.e. Power rack & pinion seal & steering boots,
steering joints for wear,
engine oil & coolant leaks ,
radiator for insect build up & leaks,
exhaust system for damage,
underside guard stone damage
not to mention brake calipers for early sign piston seal leaks ,
transmision rear seal leak ?
condition of engine mounts ,any evidence of leak,
how are your tail shaft universals & driverubbers?.
While your under there how about checking your
diff for seal leaks,
drive shaft boots for damage &
rear brakes lines for stone damage.
Recently saw massive rust damage to sub frame on this site.The owner had no idea until it broke & caused this rear wheels to go wobbly.
All can be done in an extra 10 minutes whilst opening that little drain plug at the bottom of the sump.
Neaderthals? no just people who don't have their head in the sand & don't mind lying on there back for a few minutes hah hah.
i.e. Power rack & pinion seal & steering boots,
steering joints for wear,
engine oil & coolant leaks ,
radiator for insect build up & leaks,
exhaust system for damage,
underside guard stone damage
not to mention brake calipers for early sign piston seal leaks ,
transmision rear seal leak ?
condition of engine mounts ,any evidence of leak,
how are your tail shaft universals & driverubbers?.
While your under there how about checking your
diff for seal leaks,
drive shaft boots for damage &
rear brakes lines for stone damage.
Recently saw massive rust damage to sub frame on this site.The owner had no idea until it broke & caused this rear wheels to go wobbly.
All can be done in an extra 10 minutes whilst opening that little drain plug at the bottom of the sump.
Neaderthals? no just people who don't have their head in the sand & don't mind lying on there back for a few minutes hah hah.
#512
Just wondered when you top suckers inspect your underside :-
i.e. Power rack & pinion seal & steering boots,
steering joints for wear,
engine oil & coolant leaks ,
radiator for insect build up & leaks,
exhaust system for damage,
underside guard stone damage
not to mention brake calipers for early sign piston seal leaks ,
transmision rear seal leak ?
condition of engine mounts ,any evidence of leak,
how are your tail shaft universals & driverubbers?.
While your under there how about checking your
diff for seal leaks,
drive shaft boots for damage &
rear brakes lines for stone damage.
Recently saw massive rust damage to sub frame on this site.The owner had no idea until it broke & caused this rear wheels to go wobbly.
All can be done in an extra 10 minutes whilst opening that little drain plug at the bottom of the sump.
Neaderthals? no just people who don't have their head in the sand & don't mind lying on there back for a few minutes hah hah.
i.e. Power rack & pinion seal & steering boots,
steering joints for wear,
engine oil & coolant leaks ,
radiator for insect build up & leaks,
exhaust system for damage,
underside guard stone damage
not to mention brake calipers for early sign piston seal leaks ,
transmision rear seal leak ?
condition of engine mounts ,any evidence of leak,
how are your tail shaft universals & driverubbers?.
While your under there how about checking your
diff for seal leaks,
drive shaft boots for damage &
rear brakes lines for stone damage.
Recently saw massive rust damage to sub frame on this site.The owner had no idea until it broke & caused this rear wheels to go wobbly.
All can be done in an extra 10 minutes whilst opening that little drain plug at the bottom of the sump.
Neaderthals? no just people who don't have their head in the sand & don't mind lying on there back for a few minutes hah hah.
This is why euro car drivers get a rap for being show off buyers...not real car guys. Top suckers would never get their hands dirty and do the multiple checks you mentioned they would rather suck and shelter themselves from the scary and dirty underside of their car.....Hell, they do not even know where the oil bolt is ..nor could they find it..... They would rather do some short cut method that is in no way an improvement but simply an excuse for being lazy and keeping their fingernails clean........
Last edited by St.Christopher; 04-26-2017 at 05:37 PM.
#513
Senior Member
^ amen to the last two posts.
not going to see much without taking off the under body covers every now and again. Which take all but one minute to remove.
I dont get why the vacuum crowd keeps talking about spills and getting dirty from under the car? There is no spillage. Nothing to "mop up"... or getting dirty. but no fancy machines to plug in....
not going to see much without taking off the under body covers every now and again. Which take all but one minute to remove.
I dont get why the vacuum crowd keeps talking about spills and getting dirty from under the car? There is no spillage. Nothing to "mop up"... or getting dirty. but no fancy machines to plug in....
#514
MBWorld Fanatic!
^ amen to the last two posts.
not going to see much without taking off the under body covers every now and again. Which take all but one minute to remove.
I dont get why the vacuum crowd keeps talking about spills and getting dirty from under the car? There is no spillage. Nothing to "mop up"... or getting dirty. but no fancy machines to plug in....
not going to see much without taking off the under body covers every now and again. Which take all but one minute to remove.
I dont get why the vacuum crowd keeps talking about spills and getting dirty from under the car? There is no spillage. Nothing to "mop up"... or getting dirty. but no fancy machines to plug in....
If you can do an oil change by dropping the drain plug without getting the car on a ramp or whatever, good on you.
As far as my car goes, it's warrantied for 7 years by the manufacterer.
I don't pull down my pants and fart. I just fart. But whatever suits your boat.
#515
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 21
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2006 C230 and 2014 C250
That is an interesting point you make Carsey. And as I mentioned I do my truck from underneath and love to take a look around. And it is a 4x4. Most of those items you discuss you cannot determine by looking from underneath. You will usually feel ujoints you cant see them failing, same for exaust leaks, hear them. I usually cant inspect the radiator for insects from underneath, I can do that from the topside. Etc.
I also believe you should look around occasionally so good idea to get under there occasionally and look around, like when I do brakes and change tires. Of course being in California and driving on paved roads not so much rust and stone damage.
Good maintenance is good maintenance. I believe Mercedes Service A and Service B would be considered good maintenance and they inspect about a million things while they change your oil from the topside etc.
Why cant other topside oil changers do that at home like I do. And you could also. Maybe both approaches could live in the same world. Like I said, I do both, topside on my 2 mercedes and underneath on my F350 (dont need to use ramps, just crawl under) and I personally really like doing it from the top 100 times better and I dont believe it is keeps me from keeping up on my maintenance. And I don't believe the amount of oil i dont drain makes any difference in longevity. And since I do it myself, I don't dread it as much and I feel I get a chance to look around the engine compartment etc as opposed to taking it somewhere else, like my dealer who then will tell me my brakes only have 50% pad left and they can change all my brakes for $10,000 and they have payment plans.
I am happy for you doing it underneath. And as you get older or get a couple of cars with topside accessible oil filters one day you might want to get off your back and use an oil sucker and might actually enjoy it.
Until then, this is a great forum and if you have any tips for me I am happy to hear them and maybe try them.
Ta ta.
Terry
I also believe you should look around occasionally so good idea to get under there occasionally and look around, like when I do brakes and change tires. Of course being in California and driving on paved roads not so much rust and stone damage.
Good maintenance is good maintenance. I believe Mercedes Service A and Service B would be considered good maintenance and they inspect about a million things while they change your oil from the topside etc.
Why cant other topside oil changers do that at home like I do. And you could also. Maybe both approaches could live in the same world. Like I said, I do both, topside on my 2 mercedes and underneath on my F350 (dont need to use ramps, just crawl under) and I personally really like doing it from the top 100 times better and I dont believe it is keeps me from keeping up on my maintenance. And I don't believe the amount of oil i dont drain makes any difference in longevity. And since I do it myself, I don't dread it as much and I feel I get a chance to look around the engine compartment etc as opposed to taking it somewhere else, like my dealer who then will tell me my brakes only have 50% pad left and they can change all my brakes for $10,000 and they have payment plans.
I am happy for you doing it underneath. And as you get older or get a couple of cars with topside accessible oil filters one day you might want to get off your back and use an oil sucker and might actually enjoy it.
Until then, this is a great forum and if you have any tips for me I am happy to hear them and maybe try them.
Ta ta.
Terry
#516
MBWorld Fanatic!
I am ecstatic that everybody is happy.
You are talking some rubbish Terry , not all but some .
My underside checks:-
Power rack & pinion seal & steering boots,
engine oil & coolant leaks ,
radiator for insect build up & leaks,
exhaust system for damage,
underside guard stone damage
not to mention brake calipers for early sign piston seal leaks ,
transmision rear seal leak ?
condition of engine mounts ,any evidence of leak,
how are your tail shaft universals & driverubbers?.
While your under there how about checking your
diff for seal leaks,
drive shaft boots for damage &
rear brakes lines for stone damage.
Recently saw massive rust damage to sub frame on this site.The owner had no idea until it broke & caused this rear wheels to go wobbly.
All can be done in an extra 10 minutes whilst opening that little drain plug at the bottom of the sump.
You are talking some rubbish Terry , not all but some .
My underside checks:-
Power rack & pinion seal & steering boots,
engine oil & coolant leaks ,
radiator for insect build up & leaks,
exhaust system for damage,
underside guard stone damage
not to mention brake calipers for early sign piston seal leaks ,
transmision rear seal leak ?
condition of engine mounts ,any evidence of leak,
how are your tail shaft universals & driverubbers?.
While your under there how about checking your
diff for seal leaks,
drive shaft boots for damage &
rear brakes lines for stone damage.
Recently saw massive rust damage to sub frame on this site.The owner had no idea until it broke & caused this rear wheels to go wobbly.
All can be done in an extra 10 minutes whilst opening that little drain plug at the bottom of the sump.
#517
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 21
Received 0 Likes
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0 Posts
2006 C230 and 2014 C250
Hey, It is like some folks with religion. Once they find out about it they want to share it with everyone. Once i got a car with a oil filter on top and got an oil sucker i wanted to share it with everyone. Im not ringing doorbells on the weekends, but it is something I really like! Not everyone likes my version of religion, but i am happy with it and i am happy that you like yours. The floor jacks and ramps and stuff stay in the garage and the oil sucker tool gets drug out every 5000 miles or so. My back is happy and my clothes are dust free! It is surprising that people argue against something they have never tried. Live and Let Live! T
#519
I am ecstatic that everybody is happy.
You are talking some rubbish Terry , not all but some .
My underside checks:-
Power rack & pinion seal & steering boots,
engine oil & coolant leaks ,
radiator for insect build up & leaks,
exhaust system for damage,
underside guard stone damage
not to mention brake calipers for early sign piston seal leaks ,
transmision rear seal leak ?
condition of engine mounts ,any evidence of leak,
how are your tail shaft universals & driverubbers?.
While your under there how about checking your
diff for seal leaks,
drive shaft boots for damage &
rear brakes lines for stone damage.
Recently saw massive rust damage to sub frame on this site.The owner had no idea until it broke & caused this rear wheels to go wobbly.
All can be done in an extra 10 minutes whilst opening that little drain plug at the bottom of the sump.
You are talking some rubbish Terry , not all but some .
My underside checks:-
Power rack & pinion seal & steering boots,
engine oil & coolant leaks ,
radiator for insect build up & leaks,
exhaust system for damage,
underside guard stone damage
not to mention brake calipers for early sign piston seal leaks ,
transmision rear seal leak ?
condition of engine mounts ,any evidence of leak,
how are your tail shaft universals & driverubbers?.
While your under there how about checking your
diff for seal leaks,
drive shaft boots for damage &
rear brakes lines for stone damage.
Recently saw massive rust damage to sub frame on this site.The owner had no idea until it broke & caused this rear wheels to go wobbly.
All can be done in an extra 10 minutes whilst opening that little drain plug at the bottom of the sump.
Not to mention that the only way to change out the transmission fluid ( a necessary maintenance item) is to take the pan off from underneath. Sorry, no sucking machine available for this job clean boys. Your going to have to fork out 600 bucks and pray the stealer ship does it right..but at least your manicures wont get dirty.......
#520
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hey, It is like some folks with religion. Once they find out about it they want to share it with everyone. Once i got a car with a oil filter on top and got an oil sucker i wanted to share it with everyone. Im not ringing doorbells on the weekends, but it is something I really like! Not everyone likes my version of religion, but i am happy with it and i am happy that you like yours. The floor jacks and ramps and stuff stay in the garage and the oil sucker tool gets drug out every 5000 miles or so. My back is happy and my clothes are dust free! It is surprising that people argue against something they have never tried. Live and Let Live! T
I mean sheesh people. We're talking about ways to extract oil from a $40,000 + car. However you do it....well, just do it. No need to **** on someone else who does it a different way. :p
#522
DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures
Hi,
My two-cents worth: Problems for us Aussies - we cannot get any cheaper 236.14 transmission oil equivalents in Oz. To get Shell 134, Mobil 134, Fuchs Titan, Valvoline, Total, etc. equivalents, we have to order them from outside Oz, so it is cheaper to by the genuine stuff. If you can get a 5 litre plus a one litre container, the Merc stuff is cheaper.
From what I learned here and Dr Google, OEM engine oil filters are fleece-made and not "linty paper" (?) and are probably worth the extra bucks compared to Mann or similar.
Looks like the EU has a sulphur limit of 20 or so ppMillion, in Oz we allow 50! Suggestion is to change the oil every 15,000km (8,000 miles?) instead of the Merc-recommended 25,000km (12,000 miles?) as our diesel messes up the engines more. Will suck it out via my el cheepo $20 Fleabay electric and hope I do not burn it out. Do not spill oil on the long belt when filter is taken out and buy a $3 alu removal tool for the filter cap. 25 Newton meters max for cap.
My two-cents worth: Problems for us Aussies - we cannot get any cheaper 236.14 transmission oil equivalents in Oz. To get Shell 134, Mobil 134, Fuchs Titan, Valvoline, Total, etc. equivalents, we have to order them from outside Oz, so it is cheaper to by the genuine stuff. If you can get a 5 litre plus a one litre container, the Merc stuff is cheaper.
From what I learned here and Dr Google, OEM engine oil filters are fleece-made and not "linty paper" (?) and are probably worth the extra bucks compared to Mann or similar.
Looks like the EU has a sulphur limit of 20 or so ppMillion, in Oz we allow 50! Suggestion is to change the oil every 15,000km (8,000 miles?) instead of the Merc-recommended 25,000km (12,000 miles?) as our diesel messes up the engines more. Will suck it out via my el cheepo $20 Fleabay electric and hope I do not burn it out. Do not spill oil on the long belt when filter is taken out and buy a $3 alu removal tool for the filter cap. 25 Newton meters max for cap.
#523
Not to mention that the only way to change out the transmission fluid ( a necessary maintenance item) is to take the pan off from underneath. Sorry, no sucking machine available for this job clean boys. Your going to have to fork out 600 bucks and pray the stealer ship does it right..but at least your manicures wont get dirty.......
#524
Super Member
Does Mercedes recommend any oil additives for high mileage engines ? m272 is close to 300k, still runs smooth like new and burns no oil, change the oil every 5000km with Mobile 1 0w40 ? Do I just continue this or should I get some additives or high mileage mobile 1 ?
Last edited by W204Motorsports; 12-15-2018 at 11:02 AM.
#525
Super Member
Originally Posted by ltwargssf
Does Mercedes recommend any oil additives for high mileage engines ? m272 is close to 300k, still runs smooth like new and burns no oil, change the oil every 5000km with Mobile 1 0w40 ? Do I jsut continue this or should I get some additives or high mileage mobile 1 ?
No oil usage means additives is not needed.
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W204Motorsports (02-09-2018)