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DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures
#526
Every 5,000km is very cautious. In Australia we have 50 ppMillion sulphur in diesel, EU mandates 20 or so, so it is suggested we change the engine oil every 15,000km and not every 25,000 as is Merc's recommendation and I am talking diesels. No additives are ever recommended, but you can go to a higher viscosity oil, like the 0W-40, which you do anyway, compared to 5W-30 got high mileage.
#527
Bought a AUS $28 12V pump via Fleabay and it did one suction oil change via dip stick. Kept running it for 15 min. only (20 recommended) but at end I noticed oil was coming out of ON/OFF switch! China is sending me a new one without me having to pay for postage to return old one. So best not to go for the cheap stuff.
#528
DIY oil suction adaptor for oil dipstick tube
I made an adaptor to oil dipstick tube using air-tool fitting. It works great for me and only costs $2. Sucked oil in just few minutes.
#529
Senior Member
I tried a 12v amazon $25 pump connected to the dipstick tube but it was not strong enough to get the oil up the tube. What type of vacuum did you use?
#530
Senior Member
proper level draining can detect and remov sludge better an evacuation.
there are pros and cons to each method.
Last edited by dave2001auto; 12-15-2018 at 08:19 AM.
#531
#533
#534
Senior Member
I use a similar one in which I need to insert a thin tube all the way down the ds into the sump. It is not strong enough to pull it up by the ds
https://www.amazon.com/Transfer-Extractor-Diesel-Electric-Motorbike/dp/B01KZIFZVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1544919698&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=oil+pump&dpPl=1&dpID=41keUJSt4OL&ref=plSrch
i will test with a wet dry vac
Last edited by dave2001auto; 12-16-2018 at 08:36 AM.
#535
Member
Seems none of the pumps on Amazon have great reviews.... No negative reviews about removing the drag plug.. I would like to do it all from the top, but it does not look like the hardware is up to the task....
#536
Super Member
I don't understand these electric pumps , the tubing is flimsy .
On good manual extractors the tubing is hard and has a wire running through it , plus your side head of triceps gets pumped up .
Do short / annual oil changes and the dispersants in the additive package keep contaminants in suspension , so no need to sump drain .
However I do sump drain the first time to check for fill quantity for future extractor method to match and to fit a Gold Plug magnetic sump plug .
#537
Super Member
Just buy ramps and get under the damn car, dealers use pumps because they do dozens of oil changes so it makes them efficient, still not how the engineers designed the engines, they did so by "draining the oil", not pumping it out.. You will not get all the oil out. Just take an after noon, loosen the drain plug and let it drain for 30-45 mins.
If that is the only thing you do on your vehicle, then there is no better time to get under it and check if everything is working order, even if you have a warranty, since you may not see a slow leak until its too late and the warranty runs out, just because you didn't want to get your hand dirty once a year.
If that is the only thing you do on your vehicle, then there is no better time to get under it and check if everything is working order, even if you have a warranty, since you may not see a slow leak until its too late and the warranty runs out, just because you didn't want to get your hand dirty once a year.
#538
Super Member
They have their place , true on some cars you can't get everything out because the design / baffles .
On my 2003 VW it further sucks out an oil cooler below the oil filter housing , this remaining oil would blacken the fresh straight away .
Coupled with the egr disabled the oil takes months now to even change a darker shade .
On my 2003 VW it further sucks out an oil cooler below the oil filter housing , this remaining oil would blacken the fresh straight away .
Coupled with the egr disabled the oil takes months now to even change a darker shade .
#539
Super Member
They have their place , true on some cars you can't get everything out because the design / baffles .
On my 2003 VW it further sucks out an oil cooler below the oil filter housing , this remaining oil would blacken the fresh straight away .
Coupled with the egr disabled the oil takes months now to even change a darker shade .
On my 2003 VW it further sucks out an oil cooler below the oil filter housing , this remaining oil would blacken the fresh straight away .
Coupled with the egr disabled the oil takes months now to even change a darker shade .
I would use a pump just to get what the drain plug couldn't, that would be a good use for it. The oil cooler on my m272 ,where the oil filter lives, there is always oil left behind which I might just start pumping out. I usually just flush it with half a quart of fresh oil let it drain oil but pumping it might be more efficient.
I do have that Amazon Black and yellow pump which I use to pump out coolant/brake and power steering fluid out from the reservoirs and it does a great job so It will work just fine in the oil cooler. How ever, I don't see it sucking out the 8+ quarts out from the dipstick tube. You need a quality pump that runs on air supply and uses vacuum to pump all the oil out of the crank case, "most of it".
Last edited by W204Motorsports; 12-17-2018 at 01:06 AM.
#540
Senior Member
Get one of these from harbor freight tools.
This sucker works!
It also works great for brake fluid flushing, as well as sucking out 80W-90 differential oil (even if it's cold).
I have been using one of these for years.
This sucker works!
It also works great for brake fluid flushing, as well as sucking out 80W-90 differential oil (even if it's cold).
I have been using one of these for years.
🤔
Last edited by arto_wa; 12-19-2018 at 10:04 AM.
#541
Have bought one of those el cheapos rather than the more expensive but surely better hand pumps with container. This $25 pump leaked after one engine oil change, told Hong Kong I want my money back, so they sent me a second pump. The thinner delivery pipe was changed over to the suction side and now is small enough to fit into the automatic gear box via the dip stick on this Merc C220 CDI.
Am happy now as this second pump works like a charm and have done the engine oil and auto. gear box, but for that I will have to still crawl under the Merc to drop and clean the pan and magnet. Will also doe the lawn mower, as that means lifting the lot; too heavy.
Am happy now as this second pump works like a charm and have done the engine oil and auto. gear box, but for that I will have to still crawl under the Merc to drop and clean the pan and magnet. Will also doe the lawn mower, as that means lifting the lot; too heavy.
#542
Yes, that is another good point to make in favour of "sucking" via 12V or hand pump: On my Merc. there is a heavy steel plate protecting the underside of the engine. I can take it off while under the car, but cannot put it back on as it is too heavy without going to a friendly shop or Australian "men's shed" to lift the vehicle and separate support (stand) for the steel plate to match the holes. Disadvantage: Any oil leaks cannot be seen on Mercs as that plate catches any oil.
#543
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 196
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15 Posts
C300 4matic
Just buy a Mityvac Fluid Evacuator Plus (8.8L) if you do a search you can purchase it for about $79. It works great and you can use one of their rubber stopper and you don't even need to put the hose all the way down the oil tube. The Mity Vac is clear so you can see exactly how much oil has been extracted. I get 7.5 quarts out which is exactly what my 2011 C300 4matic holds. It is so easy why would you want to go through the trouble of lifting your car? I have used my Mity Vac for five years and have had no problems, and it makes it easy to put the used oil back into the old containers.
Nelson
Nelson
#544
Member
I used a similar product like Mityvac by Astro Pneumatic Tools. I've done 7 oil changes in 5 yrs, the last 2 done with the help of $20 pump. My arms would be thankful if I knew and bought the pump sooner. They all worked flawlessly.
#545
Super Member
Last edited by Colin G; 12-19-2018 at 11:59 AM.
#546
Member
I changed the oil in my girlfriend's '14 C250 a few weeks back. There's little to no information in this thread about the C250, so I figured I'd throw up a couple pictures. I did it the old-fashioned way, because gravity is free.
The oil drain in on the rear driver side (left side) of the oil pan. I removed both engine under panels because I had never been under the car and didn't know what to expect - in hindsight, I think I could've just removed the rear under panel to get to the oil drain, but I'm not sure. I was in a bit of a hurry, so I didn't pay much attention as I put the under panels back into place to see where they actually covered.
Have a rag handy to clean up the wiring harnesses that M-B cleverly routed right under the drain - when the flow slows down, it will get onto the wiring.
The oil filter is between the air filter housing and the firewall; it's a black cap with TURBO lettering on it. (Why "TURBO" and not "OIL FILTER" or something like that? ) With the air filter housing in place it's unlikely you'd be able to get much of a grip on the oil filter cap. Even after removing the air filter housing (I was doing the air filter, too) to allow for better grip and leverage, I still wasn't able to get it going by hand, I had to use a wrench on it. Unfortunately, I don't recall what size the hex on the cap is, but it's pretty big.
As previously mentioned in this thread, for the C250, the oil filter is Mann HU514Y (or equivalent), which included the filter and correct o-rings. I have to say, I wasn't terribly impressed by the quality of the Mann filter, seemed pretty flimsy / cheesy. Based on the pictures in this thread, it appears the 4cyl filter is configured similarly to the 6cyl filter, but is longer/narrower. Yank the oil filter out of the cap, replace the 2 small o-rings at the bottom of the plastic tube, replace the big o-ring by the threads of the cap, push the new filter on and it's ready to reinstall. It took a bit of force to pop the new filter in place - I was a bit worried I was going to deform/break the flimsy-feeling Mann filter.
Refill through the oil fill capfilter housing, install your new filter, and you're good to go. You'll want a long-ish funnel to reach the oil fill based on its location. [Edit: Poor memory corrected by C0d3Sp4c3 below.]
The oil drain in on the rear driver side (left side) of the oil pan. I removed both engine under panels because I had never been under the car and didn't know what to expect - in hindsight, I think I could've just removed the rear under panel to get to the oil drain, but I'm not sure. I was in a bit of a hurry, so I didn't pay much attention as I put the under panels back into place to see where they actually covered.
Have a rag handy to clean up the wiring harnesses that M-B cleverly routed right under the drain - when the flow slows down, it will get onto the wiring.
The oil filter is between the air filter housing and the firewall; it's a black cap with TURBO lettering on it. (Why "TURBO" and not "OIL FILTER" or something like that? ) With the air filter housing in place it's unlikely you'd be able to get much of a grip on the oil filter cap. Even after removing the air filter housing (I was doing the air filter, too) to allow for better grip and leverage, I still wasn't able to get it going by hand, I had to use a wrench on it. Unfortunately, I don't recall what size the hex on the cap is, but it's pretty big.
As previously mentioned in this thread, for the C250, the oil filter is Mann HU514Y (or equivalent), which included the filter and correct o-rings. I have to say, I wasn't terribly impressed by the quality of the Mann filter, seemed pretty flimsy / cheesy. Based on the pictures in this thread, it appears the 4cyl filter is configured similarly to the 6cyl filter, but is longer/narrower. Yank the oil filter out of the cap, replace the 2 small o-rings at the bottom of the plastic tube, replace the big o-ring by the threads of the cap, push the new filter on and it's ready to reinstall. It took a bit of force to pop the new filter in place - I was a bit worried I was going to deform/break the flimsy-feeling Mann filter.
Refill through the oil fill cap
Last edited by AAIIIC; 03-25-2019 at 05:24 PM.
#547
Super Member
#548
To twist the cap off to the oil filter, buy a cheap aluminium thingy from Hong Kong (US$5?) you slide over the oil filter and then twist it off with the correct metric socket. Then torque it back on with the indicated max. torque.
#550
Member
The oil drain in on the rear driver side (left side) of the oil pan. I removed both engine under panels because I had never been under the car and didn't know what to expect - in hindsight, I think I could've just removed the rear under panel to get to the oil drain, but I'm not sure. I was in a bit of a hurry, so I didn't pay much attention as I put the under panels back into place to see where they actually covered.
The oil filter is between the air filter housing and the firewall; it's a black cap with TURBO lettering on it. (Why "TURBO" and not "OIL FILTER" or something like that? ) With the air filter housing in place it's unlikely you'd be able to get much of a grip on the oil filter cap. Even after removing the air filter housing (I was doing the air filter, too) to allow for better grip and leverage, I still wasn't able to get it going by hand, I had to use a wrench on it. Unfortunately, I don't recall what size the hex on the cap is, but it's pretty big.
As previously mentioned in this thread, for the C250, the oil filter is Mann HU514Y (or equivalent), which included the filter and correct o-rings. I have to say, I wasn't terribly impressed by the quality of the Mann filter, seemed pretty flimsy / cheesy. Based on the pictures in this thread, it appears the 4cyl filter is configured similarly to the 6cyl filter, but is longer/narrower. Yank the oil filter out of the cap, replace the 2 small o-rings at the bottom of the plastic tube, replace the big o-ring by the threads of the cap, push the new filter on and it's ready to reinstall. It took a bit of force to pop the new filter in place - I was a bit worried I was going to deform/break the flimsy-feeling Mann filter.
Featured here is the cheapy oil extractor on its 4th year and still going strong. Extract approx 5.5 litres in 20mins or less. Well worth the money, at least for me!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boMv...ature=youtu.be
Last edited by C0d3Sp4c3; 03-25-2019 at 02:37 PM.