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DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures
08-21-2009, 05:23 PM
#51
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2008 C300 Sport, RWD, US
Does the tenth picture down ring any bells? Do you recall replacing that small o'ring on the tip?
http://www.articlealley.com/article_799138_31.html
http://www.articlealley.com/article_799138_31.html
08-21-2009, 08:50 PM
#53
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C350 Sport
I believe the filter is used on more then 1 engine, different engines might have a different o-ring setups. I used the 2 smaller ones and 1 larger one.
I also drained from the bottom, I really can't see doing it any other way however I do have a lot of tools so its very easy for me to do it. I did not replace the drain plug, I did replace the crush washer, I change oil so many times a year I can't even count, 4 autos at this house + friends/family I've never once had a drain plug back out when not using locktight I've also never had a single issue with reusing a drain plug (I do replace crush washers) From audi, benz, to hondas suzukis and nissans. Never once have I had a leak from a drain plug.
If you do it from the bottom you need to remove the under tray, not the first one that goes up to the front bumper but the 2nd one, its held on by I believe 8, 8mm? screws, and the drain plug is 13mm. I couldn't find a torque spec for the mercedes drain plug but 22-24lbs should be fine.
I easily removed 8.5 quarts of oil and put 8.5 quarts back in, I had zero worry about if I got it all out.
I also drained from the bottom, I really can't see doing it any other way however I do have a lot of tools so its very easy for me to do it. I did not replace the drain plug, I did replace the crush washer, I change oil so many times a year I can't even count, 4 autos at this house + friends/family I've never once had a drain plug back out when not using locktight I've also never had a single issue with reusing a drain plug (I do replace crush washers) From audi, benz, to hondas suzukis and nissans. Never once have I had a leak from a drain plug.
If you do it from the bottom you need to remove the under tray, not the first one that goes up to the front bumper but the 2nd one, its held on by I believe 8, 8mm? screws, and the drain plug is 13mm. I couldn't find a torque spec for the mercedes drain plug but 22-24lbs should be fine.
I easily removed 8.5 quarts of oil and put 8.5 quarts back in, I had zero worry about if I got it all out.
08-21-2009, 11:47 PM
#54
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2008 C300 Sport, RWD, US
jeffie7,
I pumped the oil from above and originally got just under 8 quarts. After I removed the existing filter, I had a protracted phone conversation that must have taken a couple of hours. When I returned to the car, I was able to pump the remaining oil which brought me up to a hair under 8 1/2 quarts. This is on a 2008 C300.
I'd still like from others who have changed their oil, how many o rings they installed when replacing the oil filter on this car.
I pumped the oil from above and originally got just under 8 quarts. After I removed the existing filter, I had a protracted phone conversation that must have taken a couple of hours. When I returned to the car, I was able to pump the remaining oil which brought me up to a hair under 8 1/2 quarts. This is on a 2008 C300.
I'd still like from others who have changed their oil, how many o rings they installed when replacing the oil filter on this car.
Last edited by JimPap; 08-22-2009 at 12:05 AM.
09-05-2009, 03:36 PM
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hey, my sister has a w204 and her service A is up. I told her that i would see if i can change the oil for her and save her 450+ for service. My question to you is that is it ok to just drain the oil? Just like doing a regular oil change on any other car? thanks for thehelp.sorryif for the newbie questions.
09-05-2009, 03:38 PM
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C350 Sport
hey, my sister has a w204 and her service A is up. I told her that i would see if i can change the oil for her and save her 450+ for service. My question to you is that is it ok to just drain the oil? Just like doing a regular oil change on any other car? thanks for thehelp.sorryif for the newbie questions.
09-10-2009, 11:03 PM
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2015 VW GTI.S4; 2016 Audi Q3 Prestige
Hi first time poster trying to change my oil in the '09 C300 this weekend.
can you all tell me what size is the filter housing wrench?
76mm 14flute? Thanks
can you all tell me what size is the filter housing wrench?
76mm 14flute? Thanks
09-12-2009, 01:03 AM
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09-14-2009, 09:51 AM
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09-14-2009, 07:03 PM
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btw - thanks to the OP for a great OIL CHANGE INSTRUCTION.
Easy. Next time I can get under 30 minutes & btw the Mityvac 7201 barely had any room left.
Just becareful when you transport it as it is almost completely full 7 installing the plug will make it spill out a little.
Easy. Next time I can get under 30 minutes & btw the Mityvac 7201 barely had any room left.
Just becareful when you transport it as it is almost completely full 7 installing the plug will make it spill out a little.
12-27-2009, 05:15 AM
#63
I'm at around 7,700 miles and I had a service warning come on yesterday that said "Check oil levels at next refuel", I had asked my service center at 5,000 miles when I needed to do my first service check, and they said it would be at 15,000 miles. Should I do an intermediate oil change at this point, or should I just check levels and top off?
Darkening in synthetics is perfectly normal and not cause for alarm.
12-28-2009, 06:47 AM
#65
Yeah, I checked it at the Esso before pulling onto the autobahn on my way home, and it was about 10% above the Min fill line so I added a quart, and next time I refuel, I'll check it again to see where it's standing.
12-28-2009, 10:36 PM
#66
Well, I did my third oil change today on the C300 4M. This time, I constructed a tube that slips over the diptube to drain the oil the same way the dealership does. But even with my electric marine pump, I could not generate enough suction to drain using this method - the suction device they use at the dealership must be very powerful.
So I conducted the diptube method again, getting just over 7Q liquid measure out. Figure close to 7.5Q total with whatever was soaked onto the filter element. So again, with the 4M, it appears there is something different about the pan and the diptube bottom that prevents 100% extraction using this method.
So I conducted the diptube method again, getting just over 7Q liquid measure out. Figure close to 7.5Q total with whatever was soaked onto the filter element. So again, with the 4M, it appears there is something different about the pan and the diptube bottom that prevents 100% extraction using this method.
12-30-2009, 10:09 AM
#67
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2008 ML350 4matic
Sorrry so late with the help but here it goes....
The extra o-rings are exactly what jeffie7 stated, the filter kit is used by multiple applications so the manufacturer includes multiple sizes, most M/Bs will use the large at the top and smaller pair on the bottom of the shaft.
This whole suction situation is a bit silly to me (not trying to offend). I pull the plug. Guaranteed empty pan, gunk included. Done while the engine is warm, almost hot. The plug is easy to reach with a wrench and I only touch it by hand for the few final turns.
Whoever said that the plug cant be reused is getting had by the Stealership. By that line of thought, every lug nut cant be reused either, it gets torqued to 80-100 fps....
My parts counter guy GAVE me a hand full of the copper plug washers when I purchased a filter there....new washer only, not plug.
K&N filters are absolutely accepted by M/B...They are made by Mann, same company, same filter. The K&N is not a paper filter, hold them side by side, you cannot tell them apart. Cheaper than the dealer filter too.
I am old fashoined I guess, I have no beefs with the suction people, but with all the debate of internal vs. external tubes and measuring the contents afterwards.......8 screws and 1 bolt later, all of the oil is out. 5 to 10 minutes. No pumps to purchase and no worries about it burning out mid pump.
And finallly, to guy who started this post and put the drain oil back into the Qt bottles, 32 ounces to a quart, not 28.....sorry. Your total math was correct, but confusing.
The extra o-rings are exactly what jeffie7 stated, the filter kit is used by multiple applications so the manufacturer includes multiple sizes, most M/Bs will use the large at the top and smaller pair on the bottom of the shaft.
This whole suction situation is a bit silly to me (not trying to offend). I pull the plug. Guaranteed empty pan, gunk included. Done while the engine is warm, almost hot. The plug is easy to reach with a wrench and I only touch it by hand for the few final turns.
Whoever said that the plug cant be reused is getting had by the Stealership. By that line of thought, every lug nut cant be reused either, it gets torqued to 80-100 fps....
My parts counter guy GAVE me a hand full of the copper plug washers when I purchased a filter there....new washer only, not plug.
K&N filters are absolutely accepted by M/B...They are made by Mann, same company, same filter. The K&N is not a paper filter, hold them side by side, you cannot tell them apart. Cheaper than the dealer filter too.
I am old fashoined I guess, I have no beefs with the suction people, but with all the debate of internal vs. external tubes and measuring the contents afterwards.......8 screws and 1 bolt later, all of the oil is out. 5 to 10 minutes. No pumps to purchase and no worries about it burning out mid pump.
And finallly, to guy who started this post and put the drain oil back into the Qt bottles, 32 ounces to a quart, not 28.....sorry. Your total math was correct, but confusing.
Last edited by Benzo 003; 12-30-2009 at 10:13 AM.
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12-30-2009, 01:42 PM
#68
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nyca
Did you loosen the oil filter and remove the oil refill cap? Did you allow enough time for the oil to drain from the engine? Did you measure the oil level to see if you might have been down a half quart?
Did you loosen the oil filter and remove the oil refill cap? Did you allow enough time for the oil to drain from the engine? Did you measure the oil level to see if you might have been down a half quart?
12-30-2009, 08:36 PM
#69
Yes, I was super accurate this time. My oil was full as per the dipstick (hadn't used any in 10K miles). Engine warm, I removed the filter assembly while the pump was working and had the fill cap off, I used two different dip tubes (a fatter one first, then a thinner one to scavenge) during the suction phase. I measured the oil I drained into two disposal containers with liquid measure readings on their sides, including what drained out of the filter assembly when I removed it. 7.5Q max.
There must be something about the 4MATIC pan assembly, as noted by another poster (forget his screen name, kevin something I think) that prevents sucking it all out. And unless I get a more powerful pump, sucking using the over the diptube method (what they do at the dealer) isn't going to work, I made a good fitting tube adapter to work with my pump - but I can't generate enough suction.
I notice you have a C300 - let me ask you, if you just go to check your oil (not part of changing it, just a general maintenance checkup) - when you first pull your dipstick out, does it have any oil on it? On my 4MATIC, when I first pull that dipstick out - its dry. And I mean really dry, like there is some kind of venturi effect in the pan/diptube that has sucked the oil away from the stick during engine operation. Of course, when I immediately re-insert the stick and remove it, I see oil and can read the level just fine. But the initial removal of the dipstick - its dry. The first few times I did it I freaked out thinking I was running the car with no oil. Its like some air needs to get down into the pan upon first removal of the dipstick, before I can take a true reading. But upon second insertion/removal, the oil is surely there and the dipstick reads correctly. I don't recall any other 4MATIC owner posting anything about this, not sure why.
My 40K service will be done at the dealer because I need the 7G transmission fluid service at that time, so they will be doing the next oil change.
There must be something about the 4MATIC pan assembly, as noted by another poster (forget his screen name, kevin something I think) that prevents sucking it all out. And unless I get a more powerful pump, sucking using the over the diptube method (what they do at the dealer) isn't going to work, I made a good fitting tube adapter to work with my pump - but I can't generate enough suction.
I notice you have a C300 - let me ask you, if you just go to check your oil (not part of changing it, just a general maintenance checkup) - when you first pull your dipstick out, does it have any oil on it? On my 4MATIC, when I first pull that dipstick out - its dry. And I mean really dry, like there is some kind of venturi effect in the pan/diptube that has sucked the oil away from the stick during engine operation. Of course, when I immediately re-insert the stick and remove it, I see oil and can read the level just fine. But the initial removal of the dipstick - its dry. The first few times I did it I freaked out thinking I was running the car with no oil. Its like some air needs to get down into the pan upon first removal of the dipstick, before I can take a true reading. But upon second insertion/removal, the oil is surely there and the dipstick reads correctly. I don't recall any other 4MATIC owner posting anything about this, not sure why.
My 40K service will be done at the dealer because I need the 7G transmission fluid service at that time, so they will be doing the next oil change.
01-02-2010, 03:36 PM
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2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
Yes, I was super accurate this time. My oil was full as per the dipstick (hadn't used any in 10K miles). Engine warm, I removed the filter assembly while the pump was working and had the fill cap off, I used two different dip tubes (a fatter one first, then a thinner one to scavenge) during the suction phase. I measured the oil I drained into two disposal containers with liquid measure readings on their sides, including what drained out of the filter assembly when I removed it. 7.5Q max.
There must be something about the 4MATIC pan assembly, as noted by another poster (forget his screen name, kevin something I think) that prevents sucking it all out...
There must be something about the 4MATIC pan assembly, as noted by another poster (forget his screen name, kevin something I think) that prevents sucking it all out...
And unless I get a more powerful pump, sucking using the over the diptube method (what they do at the dealer) isn't going to work, I made a good fitting tube adapter to work with my pump - but I can't generate enough suction..
The (at least my) MB dealer tool fits inside the top of the diptube. Here's a pic of the fitting, the big end goes in the diptube. Small end would fit 3/8" fuel hose, but normaly fits in their standard hose assembly and vacuum-jet scavanging tank. I'll post more in a sepearate thread:
Are you sure the pump was sealed at your diptube connection? Pics? Do you have a link for your 12V bilge pump? I've used jabsco's for various jobs, including a custom turbo oil scavanging pump.
I notice you have a C300 - let me ask you, if you just go to check your oil (not part of changing it, just a general maintenance checkup) - when you first pull your dipstick out, does it have any oil on it? On my 4MATIC, when I first pull that dipstick out - its dry. And I mean really dry, like there is some kind of venturi effect in the pan/diptube that has sucked the oil away from the stick during engine operation. Of course, when I immediately re-insert the stick and remove it, I see oil and can read the level just fine. But the initial removal of the dipstick - its dry. The first few times I did it I freaked out thinking I was running the car with no oil. Its like some air needs to get down into the pan upon first removal of the dipstick, before I can take a true reading. But upon second insertion/removal, the oil is surely there and the dipstick reads correctly. I don't recall any other 4MATIC owner posting anything about this, not sure why.
I commented about it here in post #79 : https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post3405625
Note this thread is a great read about smart guys, that can snap into arrogant, false prophets.
A W204-4matic newbie asks about diy oil change, and Zeus and his trusty tonto from W203, drop in from the clouds and push standard DIY insert-tube syphoning, just like other owners do and the dealer does ...NOT. I had just tried this on my car with your same results ... quart or two remains in sump. Zeus and baggage say I'm irresponsible for disaggreeing with him, several times, and Tonto gives me this great advice "Go look up the definition of encapsulates". Yup, that's just what I needed to do. Diesel Benz was very helpful, and kept an open mind ... thanks!
My 40K service will be done at the dealer because I need the 7G transmission fluid service at that time, so they will be doing the next oil change.
Last edited by kevink2; 01-03-2010 at 03:25 AM.
01-02-2010, 05:52 PM
#71
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2009 C300, 2012 GLK350, 2012 C350C
i have a hand operated pump (mityvac) and was never able to extract all the oil from my c300 4M. i used the smaller tube but couldn't get to the bottom of pan.
If i used such an adapter as the one pictured above, would this work with a hand operated pump?
Where you find an adapter like that kevink2, it would be nice tool to have?
If i used such an adapter as the one pictured above, would this work with a hand operated pump?
Where you find an adapter like that kevink2, it would be nice tool to have?
01-03-2010, 10:05 PM
#72
Yup. My notes are on page 2 here. My measurements showed the inserted tubes were about 1" from reaching the pan bottom, due to a kink/bend/restriction in the diptube. This is not an issue with C300 rwd's.
The (at least my) MB dealer tool fits inside the top of the diptube. Here's a pic of the fitting, the big end goes in the diptube. Small end would fit 3/8" fuel hose, but normaly fits in their standard hose assembly and vacuum-jet scavanging tank. I'll post more in a sepearate thread:
Are you sure the pump was sealed at your diptube connection? Pics? Do you have a link for your 12V bilge pump? I've used jabsco's for various jobs, including a custom turbo oil scavanging pump.
I noticed this too. The crankcase is often under vacuum by the pcv system, and it's likely air is sneaking by the o-rings when the crankcase is at highset vacuum, and getting trapped in the full lgth of the tube. Many cars have a short diptube, that doesn't reach the oil level, and this dry stick-end behaviour will not happen.
I commented about it here in post #79 : https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post3405625
Note this thread is a great read about smart guys, that can snap into arrogant, false prophets.
A W204-4matic newbie asks about diy oil change, and Zeus and his trusty tonto from W203, drop in from the clouds and push standard DIY insert-tube syphoning, just like other owners do and the dealer does ...NOT. I had just tried this on my car with your same results ... quart or two remains in sump. Zeus and baggage say I'm irresponsible for disaggreeing with him, several times, and Tonto gives me this great advice "Go look up the definition of encapsulates". Yup, that's just what I needed to do. Diesel Benz was very helpful, and kept an open mind ... thanks!
I have the MB adaptor and would send it to you for a try.
The (at least my) MB dealer tool fits inside the top of the diptube. Here's a pic of the fitting, the big end goes in the diptube. Small end would fit 3/8" fuel hose, but normaly fits in their standard hose assembly and vacuum-jet scavanging tank. I'll post more in a sepearate thread:
Are you sure the pump was sealed at your diptube connection? Pics? Do you have a link for your 12V bilge pump? I've used jabsco's for various jobs, including a custom turbo oil scavanging pump.
I noticed this too. The crankcase is often under vacuum by the pcv system, and it's likely air is sneaking by the o-rings when the crankcase is at highset vacuum, and getting trapped in the full lgth of the tube. Many cars have a short diptube, that doesn't reach the oil level, and this dry stick-end behaviour will not happen.
I commented about it here in post #79 : https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post3405625
Note this thread is a great read about smart guys, that can snap into arrogant, false prophets.
A W204-4matic newbie asks about diy oil change, and Zeus and his trusty tonto from W203, drop in from the clouds and push standard DIY insert-tube syphoning, just like other owners do and the dealer does ...NOT. I had just tried this on my car with your same results ... quart or two remains in sump. Zeus and baggage say I'm irresponsible for disaggreeing with him, several times, and Tonto gives me this great advice "Go look up the definition of encapsulates". Yup, that's just what I needed to do. Diesel Benz was very helpful, and kept an open mind ... thanks!
I have the MB adaptor and would send it to you for a try.
So the dealer adapter fits inside the top of the diptube? Oh man, I spent time crafting one that slides over the top. 3/4" inner diameter tubing fits over the top, with a banjo clamp to snug it up to the diptube and prevent leaks, plus some plastic reducing unions (plumbing and jacuzzi/pool supply fittings) to mate it down to the tube diameter coming from my pump. But I guess I can re-craft for the next time and get one that fits inside the diptube top, the "big end" - do you know the diameter?
Yes, I have the jabsco marine unit. But only the entry level model - the one with the integrated pump and capture vessel:
http://jabsco.com/products/marine/di...m143/index.htm
01-24-2010, 10:57 PM
#74
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....If you have a 4matic, there seems to be a kink in the dipstick tube near the bottom. Whether it was the 6mm or 7mm extraction tube, I could only insert the Mityvac tube about .7" deeper than the dipstick. When I tested it with flex cable (similar to dip stick), I could stick the bare cable about 1.8" deeper than the dipstick. This indicated a restriction near the bottom of the dipstick tube on our 4-matic..
dip-stick and guide tube
Last edited by kevink2; 01-24-2010 at 11:04 PM.
