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DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures

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DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures

 
Old 06-23-2010, 10:22 PM
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What is the exact size of oil filter wrench/cup?
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Old 06-24-2010, 04:30 PM
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or should i leave the filter there and just change the oil?
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Old 06-24-2010, 05:55 PM
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Size "B".

Absolutely don't leave the filter there.

Be sure to read the instructions that came with the filter about where the washer goes on the filter housing. Its possible to put it in the wrong place.
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Old 06-24-2010, 08:23 PM
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OEM sells for $25!
I heard Mann filter = OEM, anyone can confirm about this?
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Old 06-25-2010, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Carzzz View Post
I heard Mann filter = OEM, anyone can confirm about this?
Yup. Mann, Mahle/Knecht, and Hengst are all OEM suppliers to German car makers.
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Old 07-15-2010, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by kevink2 View Post
congrats, I think you are the 1st one to evac all the oil from a W204 4MATIC, and perhaps a W203 4MATIC. Was the oil hot? 20-25 minutes sounds a bit long.

Of course, Gurus #1 and #2 from W203 would say you just need help in how to use an inserted tube, as they told me.
Just used the fluidevacuators.com adapter for the 40K change in my C3004M - worked great - got 8+ quarts out this time. Also took about 20 minutes using a 12V powered marine suction unit. I had to use a reducing union to mate the 3/8" nipple on the topside dipstick adapter, to the 1/4" suction tube on the extractor. This contributes to why it takes 20 minutes - using the same extractor as I did for the diptube method, I am still using a 1/4" tube to suck all the oil through using the top suck method. The "pro" series extractors must run 3/8" all the way. Still, it worked fine.
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Old 08-07-2010, 09:05 PM
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its much eaiser and efficient to drain oil from the bottom of the pan having gravity work with you...not against you.
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Old 08-08-2010, 01:31 AM
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You might be able to get a few more ounces out by draining the oil from underneith but is it really worth it when you're looking at 8 1/2 quarts?

I've done 3 changes from the topside and have gotten almost all the oil out each time. I just don't see where buying low incline ramps, crawling under the car, removing covers, finding replacement plugs are worth the extra hassel and expense.
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:26 AM
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ive never heard of replacing a drain plug bolt unless it was cross threaded or stripped. crush washer, yes. i also prefer to have the motor warm and let it drain overnight to get every last drop.
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:56 AM
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There is something about replacing a washer, plug or something that you're suppose to do if you remove the drain plug.

Sorry for not remembering the details any better.
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:04 PM
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I did the oil change through the traditional method (not through pump)!
It is very straight forward!
You need to remove the Black piece of plastic shield!
Then find the drain plug and unbolt it!
Since the bolt is sideway, the initial "burst" could blast up to 2 feet (unfortunately i wasn't prepared and caused some spill).
Then the rest is pretty much the same as other cars!
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:43 PM
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I think a bunch of you guys and gals are being taken for a ride with the price of your cars. A good part of it is due to incidence of the engineering developing costs as overhead, and really, you guys know better than these men who waist their time recommending oil changes pumping through the top, and God knows how many other difficult things that later don't make sense. I see why some of you are so ticked off.

As for myself, I said what the heck, all the engineers in Stuttgart cannot be crazy... So I tried the top pump method and I removed all the oil in the system. Then, I removed the shield and verified that the location of the drain plug is on the side of the carter, so it is not more efficient to change oil draining from the bottom than it is draining by pumping from the top. In this crazy world, I feel more comfortable expressing my solidarity to the many times proven Stuttgart engineering.

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Old 08-08-2010, 11:21 PM
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Did you tried to remove the drain plug and see any oil come out, after you did the pumping method?

It is about achievement, rather than the "type of work"!

It would be interesting if I were able to change the ATF.
I heard from other that the tranny drain pan only has one hole (for drain and fill), and it is temperature sensitive. ATF change would be extremely challenging without proper equipment.

Last edited by Carzzz; 08-08-2010 at 11:23 PM.
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by nyca View Post
Just used the fluidevacuators.com adapter for the 40K change in my C3004M - worked great - got 8+ quarts out this time. Also took about 20 minutes using a 12V powered marine suction unit. I had to use a reducing union to mate the 3/8" nipple on the topside dipstick adapter, to the 1/4" suction tube on the extractor. This contributes to why it takes 20 minutes - using the same extractor as I did for the diptube method, I am still using a 1/4" tube to suck all the oil through using the top suck method. The "pro" series extractors must run 3/8" all the way. Still, it worked fine.
I thought it would work fine.

Again, the fluidevacuators adaptor, used by the dealers, is needed for suction draining all 4MATIC models. Without it, you leave about an extra quart or more in the sump.

NYCA, you might be able to replace the 1/4" fitting on the pump with a 3/8" one. Looks like a simple tube grabber.

Contact Jabsco or a vendor for 3/8" suction line upgrade parts.

http://www.pumpvendor.com/Jabsco_17860_series.html



Last edited by kevink2; 08-10-2010 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Carzzz View Post
Did you tried to remove the drain plug and see any oil come out, after you did the pumping method?

It is about achievement, rather than the "type of work"!

It would be interesting if I were able to change the ATF.
I heard from other that the tranny drain pan only has one hole (for drain and fill), and it is temperature sensitive. ATF change would be extremely challenging without proper equipment.
I have not taken out the drain plug from the oil pan, cause I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the oil pan, after inspecting and cleaning underneath of the engine particularly the oil pump and strainer, and installing a couple of magnets in the oil pan. I also sent the oil for analysis to determine what the debris being eliminated was. And you know what, everything is peachy-koo. I fill fulfilled.

As for the ATF, there are plenty of posts regarding partial fluid change and total flush of 722.6 and 722.9 transmissions. As for proper equipment, the pump I use for oil changes plus a few small parts and hoses is all it's needed, though I procured a Laser Thermometer to make my job easier. The only other element is a little ingenuity to adapt procedures to your facilities, but a lift is a grand help.

My one and only satisfaction is the Swiss watch chronometer action my car maintains.

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Old 08-11-2010, 12:46 PM
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I think it is much easier to do it from the drain plug. If there were proper tools and pumps that would extract all oil from the dipstick it is ok, but what I understood there are no set tools that everyone 100% satisfied. Or just take it to the shop and pay $100 to replace the oil.
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Old 08-11-2010, 01:29 PM
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Did anyone used this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Trac-Dynamics-...=cm_cr_pr_pb_i

Reviews are gtear, just not sure how it will work with our cars.
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by haykf1 View Post
Did anyone used this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Trac-Dynamics-...=cm_cr_pr_pb_i

Reviews are gtear, just not sure how it will work with our cars.
Well, for starters, it says that it only holds 6 liters, while your engine holds about 8 liters of oil, so you will have to stop in the middle and empty out this extractor into some other container. I guess it's doable but not the most convenient.
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Old 08-12-2010, 01:38 AM
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If anyone is truly interested, at marine shops there are pumps to change oil to boat engines of many kinds and prices. The one I got can work at 12 or 110 VAC and is ready for commonly sold hoses that can be changed for the different fluids you might wish to pump in or out.

No need to be scared of the unknown horizon.

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Old 08-22-2010, 09:58 PM
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That jabsco unit I am using is a marine unit. I just like the convenience of a 12V powered unit, I tried the hand pump type and returned it.
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Old 09-09-2010, 08:32 PM
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C 63 2008
C63 oil

Originally Posted by stealtheo View Post
Few things to keep in mind:
Drain Plug -
If you choose to drain from bottom on MB cars do NOT reuse the drain plug and washer. Purchase new. The bolt is an "a" bolt it actually stretches a little when installed. Usually will develop small leak if reused. Better off replacing. only a few $

Filter -
The filter, The oem is designed to last at least 13k miles and is usually made of fleece. When using any other brands like K&N and so on
even though direct replacement they are not all designed to be replaced at those high miles. Make sure to verify you are purchasing one designed for that type of milage
Can i check with you

how many liter of Engine oil i need for my C 63 ?

my manual book did not say anything about how many liter Oil needed ?

is it 6.3 liter ?

please advice me

thanks

Daniel
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Old 09-09-2010, 08:33 PM
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C 63 oil

Originally Posted by milanlj View Post
First of all, Happy New Year to everybody, I wish all of us safe and pleasant rides and no dealership visits.
Last weekend I decided to do first oil change on my 08 C300. For all the people interested in doing it yourself or just curious what it takes to do it I’m posting illustrated process.
My car is 6 months old and from the day one I knew that I’m not going to wait 10K miles to do first oil change and I knew that I’ll be doing it myself.
I was planning do oil change at 6-6.5K but Michigan cold weather kept me for doing it until last weekend.
On the first picture (“what’s needed”) you’ll see 9 quarts of Mobil 1- 0W40 motor oil, K&N HP7004 oil filter, small oil extractor and couple of other accessories.
Picture “7K oil change” is showing engine temperature around 55°C.
Picture “Engine cover” shows engine cover removal instruction.
After removing engine cover, remove oil dipstick and insert suction hose until hit the bottom of the oil pan. Other end of the hose insert in draining container.
Remove old oil filter, I was able to do it by hand and start oil extraction.
It took quite a while for electrical oil extractor to pull all of the oil out. I was even thinking what to do if that small pump gives up (it was really hot) right in the middle of process…
While extraction is in the progress, it’s time to change oil filter. Its very simple process: pull old filter straight out, remove two smaller O rings from the bottom of the assembly and one large around the cap and replace them with new ones (filter does come with new rings included in the box).Slide new filter back in to the cap and you are all set. Old (OEM) filter was MANN HU 718/5.
When the oil extraction is complete pull out hose, slide the dipstick back, put the new oil filter in place and start adding engine oil (8.5 quarts). When finished screw filler cap back and return engine cover.
Start the engine, let it run for a few minutes then turn it off and let it rest for 10-15 minutes, then check the engine oil level on the dipstick. Add some, if necessary.

Now couple of comments:
This is the first time that I was doing oil change by using oil extraction method. I decided to try small electrical suction pump (see pictures) that I found on e-bay (but you can buy the same one on Amazon), but I’m not impressed. It took long time and as I said, pump was getting really hot, to the point that I was afraid is it going to last long enough to finish the job. Maybe is nothing, but I just have no confidence in it. I will try to attach larger insertion hose, because original one has ID of about 3mm or 1/8” and see is that helps.
Like most of us, I was asking myself question: “How much oil I’ll be pulling out? Is it going to be some “leftovers”?” and just for the record: I did put all of the old oil in the empty bottles, that I had from the other oil changes, filling the bottles to 28oz…… and… (see the last picture) I end up having 9 (nine) 28oz. bottles and 1(one) 26oz. bottle… so all together 278oz of used motor oil, or 8 quarts and 22 oz. Slightly more then 8.5 recommended, but I was satisfied, because my dipstick was showing oil level on the upper limit.
Seams that dipstick tube is pointing to the lowest oil pan location, by design, but is going to take a few more oil changes before I start draining oil out in the big draining pan, without checking quantity (Am I weird or what?).
On the end everything went well, it took about 1.5 hours to finish everything including cleaning up and putting everything away. Actual work: about 15 minutes.
I’m open for comments and questions.
Regards

PS. I do have more photos. If somebody is interested I will upload them later.
You look like a Pro in Oil change Ok
Can i check with you

how many liter of Engine oil i need for my C 63 ?

my manual book did not say anything about how many liter Oil needed ?

is it 6.3 liter ?

please advice me

thanks

Daniel
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Old 09-09-2010, 10:18 PM
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Daniel,

Nice car!

Your engine holds 9 quarts (8.5 liters).
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Old 09-10-2010, 12:41 AM
  #124  
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Filter prices

Originally Posted by Carzzz View Post
OEM sells for $25!
I heard Mann filter = OEM, anyone can confirm about this?
You can buy the same fleece filters in the aftermarket for far less.
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Old 09-10-2010, 12:44 AM
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Mann/K&N

Originally Posted by Carzzz View Post
OEM sells for $25!
I heard Mann filter = OEM, anyone can confirm about this?
It's true. The filter K&N sells is made by Mann and is the same as it's own labelled filter. And they charge more than the Mann costs elsewhere. This was verified some time ago.
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