Pete7874

I just picked up a 75mm 14flute from O'Riley's (made by Pennzoil), and it seemed like a good tight fit, but when I tried to actually turn the filter housing cap with it, it just kept on jumping through flutes. So then I put a cotton rag between the wrench and the cap to try to tighten up the clearances, and at that point the top of the wrench (where the 3/8" socket is) just stripped since it's all made of plastic. Cheap crap. On the other hand, I wonder what kind of Hercules tightened this cap before? He must have used way more than 25 Nm of torque.

So, I extracted the oil (got about 8.2 qt out), but I'm unable to replace the filter. Can anyone recommend a high quality wrench?

If the 75mm wrench is too loose, I'm thinking a 76mm would be even worse. Plus, none of my local stores seem to carry a 76mm/14 flute wrench. The 76mm is 15mm and it does not fit at all.

Does the MB service department sell this type of a wrench?

Pete7874

FYI, I found this wrench that appears to be well made (steel) and possibly the right fit: 74.5mm, 14 flutes.

link

Anybody have one of these?

ohlord

C- clamp and put the pads on opposite flats of the cap and gently
gentle twist of the clamp easily removes cap a gentle snug installs it when done.

nyca

advance auto parts, amongst others, sells the oil filter flute for this car.

I really can't see how it can be overtightened, there is a natural stop in it - and you will see a mark from the factory where the cap lines up with the base, so you know to turn and stop at that point - you don't really need a torque wrench.

RLE

I have used a Hazet 2169 filter wrench on all my MBs with spin on filters and also on my Porsche for decades.

You can Google it or go to Ebay where one is advertised by ZDMAK Tools at 877-938-6657.

It is a bit more expensive than the Assenmacher tool previously mentioned.

Using the correct tools makes everything so much easier and low cost is not always your first choice.

Pete7874

Is it metal or plastic? The plastic ones just deform and skip.

Benzo 003

You can try a large set of Channel Locks or even a pipe wrench for now until the right wrench/tool is found for the next time.

Peabody

Holy ****, your oil filter should not require a wrench at ALL. You do not need to apply more torque than hand tightened. maybe you need one to break it loose, but do not use it to tighten it back on!

Pete7874

Well, the recommended torque is 25 Nm, as written on the cap itself, alas, it looks like someone tightened it more than this.

Pete7874

I just ordered the Assenmacher tool. Hopefully I'll get it within a week, at which point I'll change the filter. Shouldn't be that big of a deal. I just hope the darn cap does not break on me.

JimPap

I didn't notice the marks you're describing. Will have to check in the morning.

Thanks for posting about this.

Pete7874

Update: the Assenmacher 2175 cap wrench did the job. Perfect fit and sturdy construction.

BTW, I did not see any marks on the cap nor base.

aowhaus

I wished I didn't give away my Mityvac before I moved.
I never tried it on my C, but it worked beautifully on my Passat -- best of all, there was very little mess, took very little time, and I know I will always have quality synthetic oil of my choice replaced everytime.

Tartan43

Just performed my second oil change using the Motive Power Extractor 1708 and the aluminum dipstick tube adapter from Fluid Evacuators. Worked perfectly; pulled 8.5+ qt. (see pic)

Pete7874

Just curious, did you insert the plastic tubing all the way down the dipstick tube or just to the aluminum adapter?

Strangely, I pulled close to 8.5 qt but was only able to put in about 7.5 qt afterward before it read full on the dipstick. This leads me to believe that:

1) I did not get all of it out, and
2) The dealer overfilled the engine the last time the oil was changed - it may explain the occasional "check engine oil level" warnings I was getting sporadically.

hellasmania219

i am trying to get the aluminum dipstick tube adapter from Fluid Evacuators. How did you go about contacting these guys?

anywhere else i can order this from?

thanks

Pete7874

I just called them.

Tartan43

See http://www.fluidevacuators.com/mercedes.html for the product description. Call their number is at the bottom of their home page to order: http://www.fluidevacuators.com/

moofish

Hello everyone. 2010 c300 4matic sport owner / sorta newbie. I just did the service A oil change myself the old fashion way underneath. I used Mobile 1 0w40, changed the copper oil plug washer, MANN HU 718/5 X metal free filter.

Now my panic mode is setting in. Wife asked the dealer yesterday the oil capacity since I wasn't near a computer nor did I have my owner's manual. He stated 8.5qt. So Advance Auto is having an oil change special (5qt Mobile 1, Mobile 1 filter -- $32.99 no, didn't use the Mobile1 filter, bought it to fit the other vehicle). So, today I do the change, all is well. Drained, put 8.5qts in. I then measure the amount I got out. ~7.5qt. Run to owners manual at this point and find the 4matic sport takes 7.4qt. 1.1qt less than the regular c300 sport!!!!! Why would there be a different capacity for the 2? And do I need to pull the plug and drain out a quart or what? Will it harm the vehicle if I don't? I have an additional copper crush washer, so if I have to, I will pull out a quart.

Thanks for the advise in advance. I've been a longtime lurker on the forums and finally joined.

Pete7874

That's interesting. My 2008 owner's manual says 8.5qt for all models.

But the funny thing is, when I changed my oil, I was only able to put in about 7.5qt before it read full on the dipstick. However, I attributed it to the fact that maybe I did not extract all of the old oil out using my MityVac. But now I'm curious... Can you post a picture from your owner's manual where it does say that it only takes 7.4 qt?

EDIT: I just downloaded the 2010 owners manual, and you are right: it says 7.4 qt. Wow! I'm sure the M272 engine hasn't changed from 2008 to 2010. The values in 2008 owner's manual must be incorrect for the 4Matic. Now it makes sense why I was able to extract 8.5qt but was only able to put in 7.5qt. The previous oil change was done by the dealer, and it did look like the engine was overfilled judging by the dipstick. I am guessing dealer service dept doesn't know the correct quantity either. I am really surprised MB hasn't corrected these figures for earlier year models.

Thanks for bringing this to my attention.

Pete7874

Here is what moofish was talking about. This is from the 2010 owner's manual:



So, the 4Matic has a smaller engine oil capacity but larger auto trans capacity, by about 1 qt.

moofish

yeah, pretty weird. So what's the consensus about the overfill? Should I worry about it and draw a quart out or let it be? My wife drove it about 60 miles and didn't notice anything. No smoke, no dash alerts.

Im going to take a look at the dipstick level here in a few minutes. If it's within range, I'm calling it okay.

Pete7874

With 8.5qt of oil on board, I was getting an occasional "check oil level" warning on the dashboard. If you get it, I'd say drain some out.

Engine oil pan shape of the two is different. On the 4Matic models, the transmission oil pan takes up more space and thus encroaches on the engine oil pan space. Now it all makes sense.

moofish

Sounds like a plan. I just checked the level and it's right at the high mark on the dipstick. Slightly above actually. Okay, I'll just keep an eye on it. The manual says that the quantity of oil between lower and upper mark is approximately 2.1 qts. So if I wouldn't of followed the c300 (non 4m) I would of been dead on.

Just makes you kinda pucker a lil on a 40k+ car.

RLE

MB has always warned about overfilling on the older engines since the excess can be expelled out the rear main crankshaft seal. Read the warning on the oil filler cap. Looks like nothing has changed.

I think you should drain it all out into a clean container so that you can refill the correct amount. The correct level is anywhere between the two marks.