Summer is coming and I wanted to wax my car. I also would like to apply some touch up paint. i have never waxed my car before and I dont really know exactly what it does. I want some of the scratches of. I also purchased a CF trunk spoiler and I dont know if I should put it on before or after waxing it. Also should I apply touch up paint before or after the waxing is done.

If you guys can tell me the order I should do it in that would really help. Thanx

 

First off, waxing isn't going to do much of anything to cover up scratches. If you want to get rid of fine scratches, you'll need to polish your car. Also, you should apply the spoiler before waxing your car so the adhesive can properly bond. Touch up paint should likewise be applied before waxing process.

Here are my quick and dirty (excuse the pun lol) basic steps that I follow for a full detail when I prep for a show:

1. Wash (not talking maintenance wash) your car with heavy concentrated wash solution to strip off any existing wax/sealant etc. My current setup is using a pressure washer and a camspray foamer, using Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Clear solution. I start with the wheels and brakes using P21S gel wheel cleaner as that's the most dirty. Then give the car a good foam bath, let it dwell, then agitate the dirt. After, I sheet hose it down then dry.
2. Clay your car to remove any remaining contaminants left on your car. I prefer Clay Magic with Optimum No Rinse (OPT ONR) solution mixed into a quick detailer.
3. Polish your car (this is the step to get rid of scratches and swirls). I use Porter Cable 7424XP, Menzerna PO85RD Polish and Menzerna PO203S Power Finish.
4. Rinse car down to remove polish dust.
5. Apply glaze. I use Chemical Guys Extreme EZ-Creme Glaze with Acrylic Shine II
6. Apply sealant. I use Optimum Opti-Seal for body. Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant for wheels.
7. Apply your choice of carnauba wax. Currently using Dodo Juice Light Fantastic (formulated for white cars), but will be switching out to maybe Collinite or Auto Glym now that it's available in the US.
8. Apply spray wax as second coat to the body. Using Pinnacle Liquid Souveran Spray Wax.
9. Apply spray wax to the wheel. I just use Duragloss AquaWax.
10. Apply water based tire conditioner. Using Optimum Tire Gel currently, but after supply is out, switching to Swissvax Pneu.
11. Take care of windows (inside and out) with Stoner Invisible Glass.

Then I move to the inside which is mainly just vacuum, then a few 303 products with 1Z cockpit. Depending on condition of some of the black trim, I'll use Chemical Guys Fade2Black. If exhaust is especially dirty, I use P21S metal polishing soap.


As you can tell, I'm kinda **** about how clean my car is lol. My next big purchase will be a de-ionize water system, so I don't have to worry about hard water.

 

Apply the touch up paint and make sure to allow enough time for the paint to dry and cure before you wax.

Also, put the spoiler on before you wax the car.

I would wash the car with Dawn ( or a similar dishwashing detergent ) before you apply the touch up paint or the spoiler. Dawn will remove all of the prior wax that was applied to your car.

You may also want to claybar your car to remove all surface contaminates. I would suggest Mothers :

http://www.mothersclaybar.com/

So, you have washed your car with Dawn, used the claybar to remove surface contaminates, and allowed sufficient time for the touch up paint ( maybe a week or more ) to dry and for the spoiler adhesive to settle. Now is the time to wax.

I would suggest Zaino :

http://www.zainostore.com/

I recommend starting with the Z-7 Show Car Wash ( Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash is also good )

After a good wash, use Zaino Z-5 Show Car Polish. This will also remove swirl marks and fine scratches.

Continue to use the Z-5 until you are satisfied the swirls are gone, then switch to Z-2 Show Car Polish ( provides a deeper shine than the Z-5, but does not remove fine scratches )

I have found that the Zaino products work better ( and are a lot easier ) than traditional wax. I have been using it since 2006 ( I had a black Boxster, black c280, and a black Harley before my black c350 ) and have been very pleased with the results.

Price List :

$24.00 Mother's Claybar ( optional )

$9.00 Zaino Z-7 ( 16 oz ) or Meguiars $13.00 for 64 oz

$17.00 Zaino Z-5 ( 8 oz )

$15.00 Zaino Z-2 ( 8 oz )

( at minimum, purchase a good car wash soap and the Z-5 )


Good luck ! Be sure to post pictures when you are done...

( BTW - I am not affiliated with any of the products mentioned above )

Have a good weekend,

Nick

 

wow thanx a lot guys. So it seems that waxing the car is a bit pointless. Id rather polish it since I want the scratches and swirls out.

AZN C300, I saw that you had installed a trunk spoiler as well. What should I do to make sure the tape sticks well. Sorry the questions might be a bit dumb but I don't really mess with cars. I have a 08 R32 and all I did was put black rims and tints on it so Im new to the mods.

 

Clean the surface with and alcohol pad. Then install the spoiler and heat it a little bit with a hair dryer.

 

that sounds simple enough!

 

I installed mine that way and the are very secure
just heat it well to allow the 3m tape to stick

 

so when I heat it up, approximately how long should I heat it up for?
also how long should I apply pressure for it to stick once i place it on the trunk. Should I be pushing down on it and for how long?

 

Just push it down tight with your hands and heat it up after that for 5 minutes
After that push it down again a little bit and you are done
Also make sure to use good quality tape

 

that makes sense because when i put it on to see how it fits, I have to push down quite a bit for it to fit perfectly. They provided two strips of tape, is that good enough?

 

Pro tip for installing spoiler:

do NOT remove all the double sided tape backing at once. start from one end, peel off a little tab from the top so you can get to it easily from the top side, then start from the bottom and peel as you press down. Then go back to the beginning and peel off the top as you go side to side. This way you don't accidentally touch the adhesive to the surface when you don't want it to. It's always best to work with as little exposed adhesive as possible.

stupid ascii pic

Step 1, expose some tab of the tape on one end
\==================
/==================

Step 2, start peeling off the tape on the bottom side and press in as you go left to right.
\==================
---------/===========

Step 3, go back to beginning left side. top should still not be taped down, but bottom section should.
\==================
------------------------

Step 4, start peeling away the top, pressing down as you go.
----------\==========
------------------------

Step 5, profit
------------------------
------------------------

 

Wow Michael you should have your own website. Thanx for all your help. Ill let you know how it all goes.

 

I defer to Michael's expertise, but just want to add that the shop I asked to install my spoiler (among other work they do) strongly advised adding a bead of urethane and letting the vehicle sit for 24 hours. They said relying on tape alone can be adequate, but that adding the urethane makes it a much stronger bond. Your comment that the part is standing away from the surface of the deck brought this back to mind.

 

Uretane? No whay. That is almost imposible to remove if you want to take the spoiler out. You will need to buy and paint a new trunk. If you use professional 3m tape(the manufacturer of the spoiler sould send the piece with with it) it will stay tight.

 

I have no plan to remove it, but very much want it to stay on! This is a very high end body shop (essentially just MB and BMW and which also does full vehicle restorations http://www.motorwerksgroup.com ), so if it ever needed to be removed, I completely trust that they could do that do. Meanwhile, this forum did have some postings about spoilers held on by tape, which came loose. So, pick your poison!!!

 

Maybe I'll look into it because I also read that people's spoilers came off while they were driving. Don't want that happening. Would you know an estimate of how much it'll cost.

 

If I remember correctly, I paid them $50. I understand the concern for some who may wish to change spoilers as styles come and go, but for me, this is now a permanent part of the car.

The most compelling reason was thinking about what could happen to someone behind me if this wing came off at speed. Yes, this is a very low probability (famous last words), but with potentially disastrous results. Being gentler to my trunk lid paint wouldn't be a very good response IMHO.

I am not being critical of the 3M tape product, but I do not have solid evidence that the adhesive is the same as OE (aftermarket formulations frequently differ, and even OE can change between manufacturer specs), nor that the amount of pressure applied nor duration are the same, nor that surface prep is the same, nor that ambient temp is the same. So, while some say its the same tape vehicle manufacturers use, I still see too many variables and potential for later issues.

Sorry for sounding so picky, but after working in the OE industry for almost 30 years, I tend to think in minor details.

 

no i agree. I want mine in there permanently and I want it done right. First of all, I don't really know how to install parts because this is my first car and Im only 18. The only thing I installed myself was the LED license plate lights and I ordered LED eyelid lights but it seems to difficult to install. Thanx for the heads up though. I just have to find a shop near by!

 

As long as you properly prep and apply, you won't have issue with 3m double sided automotive tape coming off. Look at it this way, it's how Mercedes applies the spoiler. Most people who complain about spoiler flying off simply did not apply it properly. Surface has to be clean (both on the car and inside the spoiler), area temperature should be warm 70+ degrees, use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, after application, tape it down or better use heavy books to maintain pressure as adhesive cures, finally don't drive for several hours to give it time to cure.

Of course the path sportstick suggests is foolproof, but you're paying more and is semi-permanent. Choice is up to you.

 

in re: pressure washers: If you are using a real pressure washer (I have a Karcher 1750) do not use it on the tire sidewalls because the high localized pressure can damage them.

 

Yea Michael I've decided to just use it that way. I don't plan on keeping the car that long anyway. I just have to wait for the weather to get a bit better. Still in the low 60's around here.