check front right parking light warning..
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 15
Likes: 3
From: Chicago-ish
every Mercedes that gets parked in my bay
Sounds like a contact issue or a failing bulb, they're easy enough to replace. Make sure the bulb's nice and tight in the connector and well sealed. Could be the wiring as it can bounce around, maybe a chaffed wire? I doubt itd be a control module as other lights would most likely have issues as well. If the control module sees a fluctuation in power it'll drop voltage to the bulb and illuminate the message. A key cycle will clear the message unless the issue still remains, ie open circuit/short
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
c300
Thanks I am pretty sure I secured it tight in the bulb socket, I'll give it some time and see if it resets because first few tries code still came up but last night it didn't so hopefully it went away. I'll keep everyone updated
Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 140
Likes: 1
From: Northern Virginia
2013 Mercedes-Benz C250, Iridium Silver Metallic; 2001 Mercedes-Benz C240, Brilliant Silver Metallic
I got this check front right parking light warning the other day and because I was late for a meeting, I decided to check it out afterward..
However, when I re-start the car after the meeting, the msg has disappeared and both bulbs on the front right parking lights were working..
Today, the error msg appeared again and I was able to verify one of the front right parking light is indeed out..however, the warning msg disappeared and both bulbs were working again after I drove back from autozone and was ready to replace the bulb..
What do you guys think? Simply a bulb problem or is it possible a more serious electrical problem?
However, when I re-start the car after the meeting, the msg has disappeared and both bulbs on the front right parking lights were working..
Today, the error msg appeared again and I was able to verify one of the front right parking light is indeed out..however, the warning msg disappeared and both bulbs were working again after I drove back from autozone and was ready to replace the bulb..
What do you guys think? Simply a bulb problem or is it possible a more serious electrical problem?
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
c300
Check front right parking light warning
Had same message/problem, passenger side parking standing light out.
Replaced with new Sylvania bulb, did not fix. Took bulb out, sprayed socket with electronic tuner cleaner, carefully pulled the bulb prongs slightly away from bulb and put back in socket. Problem fixed.
Hope this helps.
Replaced with new Sylvania bulb, did not fix. Took bulb out, sprayed socket with electronic tuner cleaner, carefully pulled the bulb prongs slightly away from bulb and put back in socket. Problem fixed.
Hope this helps.
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 701
Likes: 103
From: Ontario, Canada
2009 C63 AMG, 2010 C250 4Matic Sport
I've also noticed that error messages can pop up for the parking/sidemarker bulbs because of the way they're wired. The parking bulb can go out/error out because of an issue with the adjacent sidemarker bulb (I believe the outer eyebrow bulb is the "sidemarker" one), voltage and current measurements in the front SAM unit detect an "error" and will power off the "failing" bulb until the car is powered off and started up again. It's very annoying and finicky. Sometimes you can replace a dead bulb and it still won't turn on until you've left the car off for a bit.
So far I've only found two solutions to this
1. Replace both bulbs at the same time, or all four (both sides)
2. Variant coding tweaks + optional LED bulb upgrade. I've turned off PWM clocking and disabled the "open load recognition" parameters so the bulbs will always light up until they are truly dead. I'd probably not do this tweak with standard incandescent bulbs though, if anything goes wrong and they heat up a lot, they can partially melt the bulb housing. Another thing I did for the LED bulbs was lowered the voltage regulation from 13.2 volts to 12V, LED bulbs are happy with 12V anyway, and I assume the lower voltage/current output will reduce heat in the housing as well.
The eyebrow bulbs were a constant source of irritation until I figured this out, I was going through incandescent AND LED bulbs almost every two months..
Last edited by Funkwagen; Dec 3, 2016 at 10:33 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,415
Likes: 498
From: Earth
2015 C300 4Matic Sport
I use leds in my c300 eyelids and this happens (sometimes) when they are old and start to burn out. (also, winter makes old leds cry. Use better solder my china peeps?
)
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Newbie
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
W204 CDI 200
Dear gents, I have similar issue. I have error message on dashboard display that parking bulb is faulty. I have changed two pieces but issue is still persisting. Does anybody idea what can be solution? Thanks. Regards, andy
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Mililani, Hawaii
2005 SLK 350 w AMG / 2008 C / 2019 A220
Before you do anything check the insulation on the wires.
Newbie
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
mercedes benz
My passenger side parking light was getting this message so I swapped in an LED bulb and its no longer turning on. I tested it on the driver side and it works fine. Could I have messed up the wires when I pulled out the socket? I tried cycling it but it still doesn't turn on. Does someone know what it could be? Thanks
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 44
From: Los Angeles, CA
2015 C400 Tenorite Gray
The eyebrow/parking bulbs are really touchy and tempermental, partially because of the heat buildup in their housings. Causes the stock incandescent (and sometimes even LED replacements..) to burn out more quickly than normal.
I've also noticed that error messages can pop up for the parking/sidemarker bulbs because of the way they're wired. The parking bulb can go out/error out because of an issue with the adjacent sidemarker bulb (I believe the outer eyebrow bulb is the "sidemarker" one), voltage and current measurements in the front SAM unit detect an "error" and will power off the "failing" bulb until the car is powered off and started up again. It's very annoying and finicky. Sometimes you can replace a dead bulb and it still won't turn on until you've left the car off for a bit.
So far I've only found two solutions to this
1. Replace both bulbs at the same time, or all four (both sides)
2. Variant coding tweaks + optional LED bulb upgrade. I've turned off PWM clocking and disabled the "open load recognition" parameters so the bulbs will always light up until they are truly dead. I'd probably not do this tweak with standard incandescent bulbs though, if anything goes wrong and they heat up a lot, they can partially melt the bulb housing. Another thing I did for the LED bulbs was lowered the voltage regulation from 13.2 volts to 12V, LED bulbs are happy with 12V anyway, and I assume the lower voltage/current output will reduce heat in the housing as well.
The eyebrow bulbs were a constant source of irritation until I figured this out, I was going through incandescent AND LED bulbs almost every two months..
I've also noticed that error messages can pop up for the parking/sidemarker bulbs because of the way they're wired. The parking bulb can go out/error out because of an issue with the adjacent sidemarker bulb (I believe the outer eyebrow bulb is the "sidemarker" one), voltage and current measurements in the front SAM unit detect an "error" and will power off the "failing" bulb until the car is powered off and started up again. It's very annoying and finicky. Sometimes you can replace a dead bulb and it still won't turn on until you've left the car off for a bit.
So far I've only found two solutions to this
1. Replace both bulbs at the same time, or all four (both sides)
2. Variant coding tweaks + optional LED bulb upgrade. I've turned off PWM clocking and disabled the "open load recognition" parameters so the bulbs will always light up until they are truly dead. I'd probably not do this tweak with standard incandescent bulbs though, if anything goes wrong and they heat up a lot, they can partially melt the bulb housing. Another thing I did for the LED bulbs was lowered the voltage regulation from 13.2 volts to 12V, LED bulbs are happy with 12V anyway, and I assume the lower voltage/current output will reduce heat in the housing as well.
The eyebrow bulbs were a constant source of irritation until I figured this out, I was going through incandescent AND LED bulbs almost every two months..
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2011 w204 c300
The eyebrow/parking bulbs are really touchy and tempermental, partially because of the heat buildup in their housings. Causes the stock incandescent (and sometimes even LED replacements..) to burn out more quickly than normal.
I've also noticed that error messages can pop up for the parking/sidemarker bulbs because of the way they're wired. The parking bulb can go out/error out because of an issue with the adjacent sidemarker bulb (I believe the outer eyebrow bulb is the "sidemarker" one), voltage and current measurements in the front SAM unit detect an "error" and will power off the "failing" bulb until the car is powered off and started up again. It's very annoying and finicky. Sometimes you can replace a dead bulb and it still won't turn on until you've left the car off for a bit.
So far I've only found two solutions to this
1. Replace both bulbs at the same time, or all four (both sides)
2. Variant coding tweaks + optional LED bulb upgrade. I've turned off PWM clocking and disabled the "open load recognition" parameters so the bulbs will always light up until they are truly dead. I'd probably not do this tweak with standard incandescent bulbs though, if anything goes wrong and they heat up a lot, they can partially melt the bulb housing. Another thing I did for the LED bulbs was lowered the voltage regulation from 13.2 volts to 12V, LED bulbs are happy with 12V anyway, and I assume the lower voltage/current output will reduce heat in the housing as well.
The eyebrow bulbs were a constant source of irritation until I figured this out, I was going through incandescent AND LED bulbs almost every two months..
I've also noticed that error messages can pop up for the parking/sidemarker bulbs because of the way they're wired. The parking bulb can go out/error out because of an issue with the adjacent sidemarker bulb (I believe the outer eyebrow bulb is the "sidemarker" one), voltage and current measurements in the front SAM unit detect an "error" and will power off the "failing" bulb until the car is powered off and started up again. It's very annoying and finicky. Sometimes you can replace a dead bulb and it still won't turn on until you've left the car off for a bit.
So far I've only found two solutions to this
1. Replace both bulbs at the same time, or all four (both sides)
2. Variant coding tweaks + optional LED bulb upgrade. I've turned off PWM clocking and disabled the "open load recognition" parameters so the bulbs will always light up until they are truly dead. I'd probably not do this tweak with standard incandescent bulbs though, if anything goes wrong and they heat up a lot, they can partially melt the bulb housing. Another thing I did for the LED bulbs was lowered the voltage regulation from 13.2 volts to 12V, LED bulbs are happy with 12V anyway, and I assume the lower voltage/current output will reduce heat in the housing as well.
The eyebrow bulbs were a constant source of irritation until I figured this out, I was going through incandescent AND LED bulbs almost every two months..
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
2011 C350 4matic
The eyebrow/parking bulbs are really touchy and tempermental, partially because of the heat buildup in their housings. Causes the stock incandescent (and sometimes even LED replacements..) to burn out more quickly than normal.
I've also noticed that error messages can pop up for the parking/sidemarker bulbs because of the way they're wired. The parking bulb can go out/error out because of an issue with the adjacent sidemarker bulb (I believe the outer eyebrow bulb is the "sidemarker" one), voltage and current measurements in the front SAM unit detect an "error" and will power off the "failing" bulb until the car is powered off and started up again. It's very annoying and finicky. Sometimes you can replace a dead bulb and it still won't turn on until you've left the car off for a bit.
So far I've only found two solutions to this
1. Replace both bulbs at the same time, or all four (both sides)
2. Variant coding tweaks + optional LED bulb upgrade. I've turned off PWM clocking and disabled the "open load recognition" parameters so the bulbs will always light up until they are truly dead. I'd probably not do this tweak with standard incandescent bulbs though, if anything goes wrong and they heat up a lot, they can partially melt the bulb housing. Another thing I did for the LED bulbs was lowered the voltage regulation from 13.2 volts to 12V, LED bulbs are happy with 12V anyway, and I assume the lower voltage/current output will reduce heat in the housing as well.
The eyebrow bulbs were a constant source of irritation until I figured this out, I was going through incandescent AND LED bulbs almost every two months..
I've also noticed that error messages can pop up for the parking/sidemarker bulbs because of the way they're wired. The parking bulb can go out/error out because of an issue with the adjacent sidemarker bulb (I believe the outer eyebrow bulb is the "sidemarker" one), voltage and current measurements in the front SAM unit detect an "error" and will power off the "failing" bulb until the car is powered off and started up again. It's very annoying and finicky. Sometimes you can replace a dead bulb and it still won't turn on until you've left the car off for a bit.
So far I've only found two solutions to this
1. Replace both bulbs at the same time, or all four (both sides)
2. Variant coding tweaks + optional LED bulb upgrade. I've turned off PWM clocking and disabled the "open load recognition" parameters so the bulbs will always light up until they are truly dead. I'd probably not do this tweak with standard incandescent bulbs though, if anything goes wrong and they heat up a lot, they can partially melt the bulb housing. Another thing I did for the LED bulbs was lowered the voltage regulation from 13.2 volts to 12V, LED bulbs are happy with 12V anyway, and I assume the lower voltage/current output will reduce heat in the housing as well.
The eyebrow bulbs were a constant source of irritation until I figured this out, I was going through incandescent AND LED bulbs almost every two months..
