Hi all,
Like many of you I decided to replace the EOM bulbs with LEDs. I ordered some LEDs from AZN Optic almost 2 weeks ago. Did not have chance to install them until this Saturday. I read a lot about replacing eyebrows, low beam, and side markers before opening the hood.

Eyebrows
I started with the passenger side first and then replaced the drivers side. Like many have suggested I ended up using a pair of narrow nose pliers because I could not grab onto the socket with my fingers. The whole process took me about 30 minutes, maybe more or less. I have 5000K Diamond Vision for my low beams, and the LEDs match nicely. I like the way it looks.

One problem though... Before inserting the socket with LED back into housing, I checked to make sure I have it plugged in correctly. Installed 4 LEDs - checked the lighting -everything works great. That same day I went for 20-30 minutes drive. The car was parked for 4-5 hours. I get back to my car, and ready to drive - I get a message saying "Check Front Left Parking Lamp". The first thought that came to my mind was that the LED either got pushed in too far or came loose. So I took the LED out and then inserted it back in, trying at different insert length/position - No Light Output. I tried another LED - nothing... Then I tried the OEM bulb - same thing - No Ligh Output.

Something must of happened to socket/wiring? Anyone experienced this before? Any ideas and suggestions on how to fix this is greatly appreciated!!!


License Plate
Followed one of the nicely written DIYs and got the job done. This was more involved than just replacing bulbs, but not a big deal. The LEDs are much longer than OEM bulbs and are touching the plastic cover when installed. I was somewhat concerned about that and thought I might have to replace the LEDs back with OEM bulbs. Drove for about 30 minutes at night, when the lighting was on, touched the covers to see whether or not they got warm/hot. The covers were cool, so I guess I should be okay. But I still will be checking them for some time, especially when I go on longer trips.

Michael (AZN Optics) - thank you for smooth transaction and fast shipping -

Best regards,
-Vadim

 

Try power cycling the vehicle. If something happened and the SAM read the socket as bulb out, it will actually shut off power to the socket. Turning the engine on and off will reset the SAM.

As for plates, the diodes that are by the lens actually don't generate heat. It's the resistors towards the back socket that burns off heat so shouldn't be an issue. Have yet to have any reported melting of the plate lens.

 

Michael,

I will try doing as you suggested and will share with my findings. I did not have a chance to do it yet. I know it should take 10-15 mins (most likely less than that), but have you noticed that the sun sets at 4:25 already? The days are getting really short lol By the time I get home it's almost black/dark out (I get out from work at reasonable time, 4pm, and drive is considerably short as well.) I guess it's just this time of the year...

-Vadim

 

Having some time on hands I looked into this issue. First thing I did is pull the LED out and then Power Cycled the vehicle. Installed LED back (tried both positions), but nothing changed - there was still no light. Then I tried OEM bulb and nothing changed this time either. I tried power cycling the vehicle again. The OEM bulb still did not turn on. Then somehow I started moving the wires/socket and magically the bulb turned on... then at some point it turned off when I made another movement of the wire/socket. I replaced the OEM with LED; after a few trials I got the LED to glow!!! YAY!! Well... it worked until I tried inserting it back into the housing. As soon as it bumped in something, the LED turned off. I mode another few adjustments of the LED in the socket, and I got it to work again. The installation process took a while because the light kept turning off when it touched something and the LED made a slight movement in the socket. Finally I got it into the housing, closed the cap and had it working. I was happy to see that because I was getting annoyed seeing the "error" message on the screen and it did not look quite right with one LED glowing.


Just some thoughts: Due to the limited spacing and limited wire length it would be really nice to see these LED come much shorter in length or at least a little shorter. This would make it so much easier to install them. Also, some sort of protection or housing that would protect the rolled brass wiring from getting damaged. I found it very easy to ruin that part of the LED. The part can get dis-attached easily (when taking the LED in hands and trying to install it in the socket), and I am thinking the LED won't last that long, and essentially will stop working. These are some of my thoughts and observations that I came up with when replacing the bulbs. I hope this can be useful to MB community and for future improvements of AZN Optics.

Thank you for your product and service!

Best regards,
-Vadim

 

Yes, these new versions are slightly (4-5mm) longer than our previous version and was a choice we made because of all the components we wanted to try to pack on this LED to make it the most advanced and over-engineered to help improve the reliability and longevity of the unit. It does make it a slight pain to install, but a trick we found was to over insert it on purpose when plugging it in, then align the led to the socket hole, then pull out the led back to where it should sit after you've angled it ready to insert into the housing.

As for the wire being loose like that, when you attempted to pull the socket out from the housing, did you pull by the wire? Doing so risks stripping or causing a loose connection between the wire terminal and the socket. Just twisting the wire shouldn't have any affect on the actual LED and even the OEM bulb in terms of lighting up. I worry that if your wires are loose, that even though it works now, engine vibration will cause the wire to be unreliable.

 

I think the main problem is that the wiring is very short. It's fine for the length of the OEM bulbs, but not really for these LEDs.


As I mentioned in my original post, I used pliers when pulling the socket out of the housing. I know for sure that I did not pull by the wire. For now I am thinking to leave it as is and see what happens. Of course if this is the loose wire in the socket problem, then it will cause more headache to get it fixed... I hope that things will work for the better. In case this is the loose wire problem... do you know of any well documented DIY on this?

Thanks,
-VD

 

Figured I'd quickly share a couple pics for those who, like myself prior to installation, are on the fence as far as color matching & temps to pick. I have the 5000k HID kit & 5000k LED's installed in the eyebrows. The colors are very close, and I love the look! Not too blue and nice output overall.

Here's the color difference between the stock eyelids & the 5000k LED's

 

Okay, so I might possibly be the dumbest person on this forum, but I've got a problem and I'm hoping one of you might be able to help.

I bought 4 of the 5000k LEDs to replace my parking lamps. To make a long story short, the LEDs work fine (both are installed and working great on the driver's side). However, I made a huge error when installing on the passenger side and I don't know how to fix it.

Once you remove the bulb, from the top the housing looks somewhat like a + sign. In one direction (let's assume the horizontal) you find the contacts where the bulb naturally fits in. Put the bulb in there and everything's peachy. For the other direction (the vertical) normally these are the pressure clips that keep the housing in place. Well, without good lighting, I put the bulb in the vertical way, which pushed out those pressure clips. Before turning the car on and testing (again, I'm an idiot) I put the housing back into the headlamp unit where it FIRMLY locked into place. Now I find myself totally unable to remove the housing, because though normally the pressure clips would simply flex inward to allow removal, now they cannot flex because the base of the bulb is in the way. Essentially I turned the housing into something like a molly bolt that won't come out of the main headlamp.

Any help or tips on what to do? I'd hate to have to take this thing into a mechanic and spend money on something that should have been a simple fix, but it's driving me nuts. I've used my hands, needle nose pliers, probe tools ... anything to get a grip on these damned housings and nothing grips well enough to permit a REALLY hard pull.

 

whre did you get the 8k hids?

 

Just in case someone stumbles upon this in the future, I'll respond to myself. The answer was finding the right tool for the job, which in this case was vice-grip or locking needle nose pliers. They got a great grip and allowed me to get the leverage to dislodge the housing. Note that this is only necessary if you're as dumb as I am, but it worked great!

 

Hi AZN Optics,

My 2008 C350 came with the OEM bi-xenon headlights (the old Prem P2 package). Per your recommendation, it looks best with white LED eyebrows so I figure I would need 2 sets of 5000K LEDs. I checked out your website and looks like there are many types of LEDs (wedge, festoon, beyonet, etc.)

Could you please give me some suggestions about which LED type work best for my car (eyebrow)? Link to the product on your website so I can order online would be much appreciated!

I also want to go with a set of clear side markers. Do you gave any compatible white LED set replacing OEM side marker yellowish lights to go with the set up?

Thanks in advance!

 

I'd recommend our 194 wedge LEDs V4 model in 5000K
http://www.aznoptics.com/index.php?m...&products_id=8

You'll need 2 sets for your eyebrows, and another set for your sidemarkers.

 

I just bought and installed AZN's 3457/ 3457A/ 3156 LED (Amber) leds. I am very disappoint.

They are very dull yellow compared to my stock (non led) bulbs. I wasted $30.

 

Sorry you're not happy with them. Majority of our customers are satisfies with our signals as they match the side mirror signal color. Send us an email at aznoptics@gmail.com and we can process a return.

 

Awesome! Thanks! I will order a few sets

 

Benzdude, actually i have same thought after installed that Amber front turn signal but it completely change and turn out to be wonders at night.

 

Maybe I had a bad set? (I should have taken a picture)

AZN was kinda enough to let me return them.

 

well...aznoptic's customer service is top notch. i mean i had spent a lot on bad quality led local
hope you can try them again and other product he carries too

this are probably the best i have came across so far

 

AZN's customer service is top notch! He took care of me twice with minor issues, no questions asked. I will absolutely be a return customer! A+++

 

Can't wait for my v4..... Arghhhhhhh i'm so excited

 

Hi
Do these also fit the C280 w204 (its 2008) ....


Thx.

 

yes

 

need help with order. pm'd again still waiting on a reply.

 

For past near 1.5 year...again approach Aznoptic Mike for Led

Customer Service: 10/10 Top notch

Shipping: 9.9/10 Fantastic only malaysia post is slow

package wraping: 10/10 Excellent

product spec: I have been using lots of leds for several years.Different Brands, countries, design....
NEVER SEE IT B4 (v4) , EXTREME WELL BUILT LED.
INSANE BRIGHT , FUTURE TECHNOLOGY!


SO excited after waited about a week

 

i have factory Bi xenon lighting package also DRL.
perviously v3 led for my c250 prefacelift eyebrown... a hint of grace blue.lasted 1.5 yrs
i wanted to switch to v3 5000k but i got the v4 instead to try.

after playing around for an hour this is what i found:

v4 5000k led matches the factory Bi xenon and DRL very well.
90% close to headlights
99% to DRL prefacelift w204

finally i went for v4 8000k rather than v4 5000k as the 8000k is too sexy and bright.
my experience: v4 8000k totally eliminate 90% of grace blue on v3 8000k
so v4 8000k comes out to be super extreme bright white with only very very little blue.