C-Class (W204) 2008 - 2014: C180K, C200K, C230, C280, C300, C350, C200CDI, C220CDI, C320CDI

Car is dead. I HATE this POS.

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Old 03-01-2011, 08:03 PM
  #51  
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'08 c300 sport
Okay so got some semi-OK news. Dealership said I only need to pay for the wheel lock module (which of course is the more expensive part). They will pay for the other problem which pretty much leaves me with a total of $945. Still a hefty amount of money -_-

You guys think I should try for more? Or if I even can?
Old 03-01-2011, 08:35 PM
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12E350, 12ML350, 08C350
Originally Posted by EASYDOES1T
I am gonna try to call MBUSA and see if that works. I doubt it though -_- just cause I doubt they'd care about the situation and probably give me a bunch of BS about how I should have just extended the warranty...

If that fails, do you guys think that a local shop can do it? My dad knows the boss of the local Midas and he always gives us better prices when my dad brings the car there and everything. I wonder if I order the parts online from mbparts or something, Midas can just do the install?

Damn this is extremely annoying. At this point, I completely regret not extending the warranty. So for all those who are reaching 4 years or 50k miles and are not thinking about extending (given you are keeping the car for a while), you might want to reconsider but I also understand why you wouldn't because I didn't. Dumb move.
You drive a MB, then expect MIDAS be able to fix your MB problems ?. Beside mufler, I would not let MIDAS touch my car for anything else. MB is a very complex car, MB indy's mechanic can help you to reduce the cut throat charge by your MB dealer, but not MIDAS. Believe me, when you messed up your MB, it cost you A LOT for diagnostic & repair. Without SDS, some problems can not resolve by the back yard mechanic, I don't think MIDAS have any diagnostic machine for MB. Good luck to get you car back, running again.
Old 11-07-2011, 02:01 PM
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2008 C350 Black with Black MB Tex
I just had the same thing happen to my car yesterday. 2008 C350. I called AAA, they sent out a battery truck. The guy tried to jump it and it did nothing. Then they towed it to the MB dealer. They called me this morning after they tested it and said the steering lock needs to be replaced ($,097). They also said the PreFuse has to replaced ($897) - they said the only way the PreFuse can blow is if jumper cables are placed backwards. So, they are basically saying the battery guy who does this all day for a living put the battery cables on backwards. Has anyone heard of this PreFuse issue? So, now my car is sitting there and they are waiting for me to call them back with a yes or no. $1,975 seems awfully high. Any suggestions from anyone? I am at 4 years 2 months and 42k miles. 2 months out of warranty.
Old 11-09-2011, 12:24 PM
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Saab 900 SE
Originally Posted by keith100
Push MB to cover all all or most of the cost under "goodwill". There's been a TSB out about the EIS, since almost day one. Some switches obviously have a construction defect.

Good luck
There is a TSB IF its in Warrentee and IF its complained about and duplicated, from what the OP posting it could have been repaired under warr a long while ago when it started, but for some reason or another he didnt and is now upset because he has to pay for it to be so. Thes cars have several expensive parts on the EIS and F&R Sams and ABS modules are some of the most short of the engine and trans, when something goes wrong its not cheap, and MB requires star to properly diag and repair these systems, which are dealer only. Either pay it and get the car repaired or dump it and buy a hyundai which will have a longer warr and cheaper parts, cant afford to repair and mb? Dont own one

MIDAS or any large "we fix all" place it not a spot to have a complex car serviced, a MB is not like any other car, would you bring a Lambo there? NO because they hire the drop outs from mechanic school, why do you think their prices are so cheap?

Kudos to the dealer for paying for the other repair as a good will gesture, there not all evil, and they didnt break your car, be happy they even offered to pay part of it.

Last edited by AdidasC230; 11-09-2011 at 12:26 PM.
Old 01-16-2012, 02:55 PM
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2008 C300 Sport, RWD, US
Just yesterday, while out of town, I went to start my 08 C300 and the starter would not even turn to make that clicky, clicky, clicky sound that you get with a low battery. Power to the light was good. Left it alone and came back 10 minutes later and it turned over fine.

Does this sound like the same problem????
Old 01-16-2012, 07:30 PM
  #56  
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'08 C300 Lux Barolo Red Beige Leather P2 MM 18" wheels '84 944
Originally Posted by JimPap
Just yesterday, while out of town, I went to start my 08 C300 and the starter would not even turn to make that clicky, clicky, clicky sound that you get with a low battery. Power to the light was good. Left it alone and came back 10 minutes later and it turned over fine.

Does this sound like the same problem????
Try the other key the next time it happens.

And, no, it has nothing to do with the battery in the key which is for lock/unlock only.
Old 01-16-2012, 08:59 PM
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Nissan GT-R BE / '12 Ducati-1199 Panigale S / '12 C300-4M Loaded/GLK350-4M Loaded
Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
Does the vehicle crank over but not start? If so this sounds typical of a failing CPS (crankshaft position sensor)

You say lights don't work?? Did they actually load test the battery?
^This!..for sure! Any one of them could be going, crank... cam etc... any new codes... needs a good dx...
Old 01-17-2012, 12:23 AM
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2013 GLK 350 4M (Iridium Silver), 2010 E350 Coupe (Iridium Silver)
Originally Posted by kaku
ah..that's right. i suppose there are some that could run >50k miles in 2-3 years..
2009 here with 70K miles
Old 01-17-2012, 11:27 AM
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C300
Originally Posted by JimPap
Just yesterday, while out of town, I went to start my 08 C300 and the starter would not even turn to make that clicky, clicky, clicky sound that you get with a low battery. Power to the light was good. Left it alone and came back 10 minutes later and it turned over fine.

Does this sound like the same problem????
Occasionally, my 08 C300 won't turn over on the first flick of the key. I need to completely remove it and then reinsert to get it to start. I always thought it was because I was doing the whole process too quickly, maybe it's this issue rearing its head. That would suck, just went out of warranty last month...figures.
Old 01-17-2012, 03:00 PM
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2012 C300 4Matic
Originally Posted by erichighley
Occasionally, my 08 C300 won't turn over on the first flick of the key. I need to completely remove it and then reinsert to get it to start. I always thought it was because I was doing the whole process too quickly, maybe it's this issue rearing its head. That would suck, just went out of warranty last month...figures.
This is normal assuming that you are inserting and turning the key *very* quickly. I encounter this problem every couple weeks in my 2012, and had it identically in my 2005. Just have to do it with a bit less gusto.
Old 01-17-2012, 04:37 PM
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C300
Originally Posted by acr2001
This is normal assuming that you are inserting and turning the key *very* quickly. I encounter this problem every couple weeks in my 2012, and had it identically in my 2005. Just have to do it with a bit less gusto.
Sometimes I just get too anxious

Good to know it seems to be normal though, thanks!
Old 01-17-2012, 08:02 PM
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2009 C350
Originally Posted by JimPap
Just yesterday, while out of town, I went to start my 08 C300 and the starter would not even turn to make that clicky, clicky, clicky sound that you get with a low battery. Power to the light was good. Left it alone and came back 10 minutes later and it turned over fine.

Does this sound like the same problem????
Had this exact same problem yesterday. Still a mystery as to why it happened though. I had "SRS Malfunction" pop up on the gauges before I tried starting it though. Eventually it worked after like 15 minutes of not trying.
Old 04-11-2012, 04:15 PM
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AV6
just happened to me today
Old 04-13-2012, 03:09 PM
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'09 C350
Originally Posted by alexlev
I've taken five minutes and recreated your emotional breakdown / scenario, in the form of a rage comic.



:P
hahah i'm cracking up over here....

but sorry bro for the issue on ur CAR!
Old 04-13-2012, 03:42 PM
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e36 318i, 2004 sti
check all relays? Any lights draining power? Sorry I didnt read the whole thread.
Old 04-17-2012, 10:31 PM
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C-class 220CDi 2008
My car just got this problem, car never had any problems was driving fine day before.
Old 04-19-2012, 12:08 PM
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C204
I had a similar problem, I am not sure if it is the same as yours. Everything started with a lazy noise when inserting the key (you know the noise when it accepts the key and actually it came out that this noise was from unlocking the steering wheel). The other problem that came out was that sometimes when I turn the key, the car wouldn't start - it just wouldn't do anything when I turned the key to the start position. In order to start it, I needed to remove the key and then put it back and try again.

One day, the car looked dead - I insert the key and there was no noise at all, it couldn't start, it wasn't unlocking the steering wheel and it wouldn't do anything when I was turning the key. The problem was solved by replacing the device/module which recognizes the key, and unlocks the steering wheel. It costs $1000...

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