mercguard87

Anyone?

I have spoke with my installer, very reputable I might add, and he feels that this is going to be a difficult scenario.

I have not brought the car to him so he can take a look, but he believes it will be extremely hard to run the amp wires to the trunk since my rear seats do not fold down, based off my inexperience, I would have to agree with him.

For some reason, he also believes there is a solid firewall behind the rear seat, again adding to the difficulty in running the wires, what is he talking about?

Finally, he said he doesn't know how well the subwoofer will sound if there is a solid firewall separating the trunk from the rear seats, making it very difficult to hear the subwoofer in the cabin, is this true?

Has anyone accomplished this with success?
If so, how did you do it, any DIY guide that can ease the installation?

BMFW

Wait so all you're trying to do is install your subs in your trunk ? If so the seats are removable. on a side note what setup are you thinking about running ?

mercguard87

Going to add JL 10w6 in prowedge box with JL 500/1
Also want to replace stock speakers with infiniti kappa.
So this is an easy process?

BMFW

Just one 10? Jl is the way to go though, and yeah its a little harder compared to the install on older cars but it's nothing too complicated

wnunez89

i had a digital design set up in my trunk 3510 series sub powered by a cM1 DD amp with a yellow top battery, it was such a pain in the ***! when adding another amp the stock one started acting funny, and the fiber optic cables make it a pain as well, in my opinion dont do it! with the non folding seats the car is so sealed that you dont feel the hits and the trunk just rattles, if you are dead set on doing it DEFF go with a 12". a 10" will just leave you disappointed, i learned this the hard way... after spending $1600




anyway these are some picks of my set up... good luck!

mercguard87

Well crap, I was hoping the install guy was full of it, but i guess he was right. I think its completely ridiculous I pay the money i did and them car doesn't even have damn folding seats; my 96 saturn had them lol. This is really disappointing because I absolutely hate the stock sound system, it sound like total crap, but I guess I don't really have any options.

wnunez89

yea i feel your pain, but instead of adding the sub you can upgrade on your component speakers, switching them out to some JL, digital Design, or Rockford Fosgate speakers will 100% improve sound quality and will add a little more bass. im planning on doing this for my next modd, but my subwoofer definitely disappointed me. and as for the folding seat...dont get me started lol

Acapulco Bill

Save yourselves some pain and check out my Post #122 on this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...upgrade-5.html
An inexpensive, clean install that leaves the trunk completely free, and even lets you use the fold-down seats f youve got them. Works very well.
As for the sound, there is a trend to replace the stock speakers with Infinity Kappa 60.9 front and 6032si rears. Lots of posts in the same thread.

08SEA300

Not sure what you guys all think is difficult. I ran a separate power wire from the main battery (under hood) back to the trunk, tapped my rear speaker wires and ran that to an re-Q line out converter and installed all of this in my own garage. And yes- my seats don't fold down. There's two hex head bolts behind the rear cushion on either side that you can undo and you'll be able to slide the wires right through. I ran a 4 gauge wire from the front to rear of my car, without any issues.

Here is a pic of the final install:

Built the box from scratch and all. My first fiberglass box fwiw

Also- with the right sub, there's absolutely no way it'll be lost in the mix. My W7 hits like a sledgehammer and sounds amazing in car. Quiet is the absolute last word that comes to mind when my iPod is shaking off the center console. So I'd take a second thought into the whole idea. Your W6 will sound great in the C, go for it

Hope this helps some!

Norm01

I did this exact set up in my C300. Do a search I documented the whole thing. Very easy install and fantastic sound. Lots of bass. The 10W6 Prowedge is perfect as the box fits just nice under the trunk crossbar, W7 won't fit. Amp goes beside the spare tire. Run a 4G to front battery and pull the high level signal off rear speakers as the 500/1 takes high level input. Switch the amp on/off using an accessory +12v from the rear SAM.

mercguard87

Found it, post 12.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post3678316

This if FANTASTIC!!! I was growing very disappointed with the previous news on how this installation would be a waste of money or impossible at the very least.

A few questions for Norm01,

1) I do not have the audio 50 or whatever its called, meaning I have no factory subwoofer, so do I draw my feed from the hi level speaker wires since there is no sub, I believe that is the only option but I read you posted somewhere that this is not as good or efficient as pulling from the factory sub, is this correct, since I don't have a factory sub am i screwed?

2) There is no need for a high quality line output converter, such as the Audio Control LC2I? I thought I needed this to convert the speakers level inputs to high quality pre-amp signals. If I purchase the JL 500/1 v2 slash, I will not need to purchase this because it already converts speakers level inputs?
Link for reference: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-QqHnPlt...trol-LC2i.html

3) You do have non-folding rear seats Norm01? Is that correct? Do you have this firewall separating the interior of the cabin from the trunk that my installation shop speaks of? If you do, would you PLEASE, PLEASE pm me the information I need to provide these tards on how to do this installation process, step by step, so they don't rape me with hours of labor charges, claiming, "It took us a while to figure this out since it doesn't have folding seats"

wnunez89

maybe you might wanna go somewhere else for install if they were puzzled at how to wire this set up and a main problem being was the car not having fold-down seats.

BMFW

Here's my set up. Installed it WITHOUT folding the seats hahah

Norm01

With the 500/1 you do not need a signal processor as the amp takes high level inputs.

Take the signal from the rear speakers. The sub thing is only if you have the HK system, that system has Dolby 5.1 surround and sends the bass signal to the sub which is the .1. On the regular system the full bass signal is available at the rear speakers.

I do have folding seats however this is not an issue and there is certainly an easy place to run the power wire.

robmacca

This looks like a really interesting idea as I have been looking to get a better sound out of the head unit but without losing my boot to a big sub plus my factory speakers are crap. I do have a few questions though:

1) I'm in the UK and struggling to find the boss audio amp/sub locally, so would any slimline amp do the job? Also where does the amp get its input from as im guessing the head-unit wont have an output?

2) Do the Infinity speakers fit straight in place of the originals? Or is there some modification required?

thanks for your help

kHuNkHuNa

can anyone here tell me where to hook up the high level converter (rca pack) I'm trying to install it right at the head unit if possible, and which wire is positive and negative for rear speakers?

AkaSigFreak

White/Brown and Brown/Pink are for the rear

kHuNkHuNa

i wired the rca pack,
white - left positive
brown/white - left negative

brown - right positive
brown/pink - right negative

rca ground, power, and remote wired to the three wires from the cigerette lighter and it didn't work i get no sound out of the sub?
what am i doing wrong

AkaSigFreak

Are you getting Power to the sub? What did you use as a grounding point?

05 MB Komp

Sounds like a bad ground to me. I would start there and then check all your connections, how did you tap the wires?

If you are getting power to the amp then I would look at the speaker connections and make sure they are done well. I used quick splices at first and they were terrible.

kHuNkHuNa

i used those blue things that go over the original wire and then the other wire goes into a send hole and then u squish it together basically i can re do them, because with the rca pack behind the deck the head unit won't go fully in :|

also the power wire from the battery is good, also the ground wire that i grounded in the trunk is good, because the capacitor is getting power.

but the rca pack power, ground, and remote wires all went to the cigarette lighter that is right below the air conditioning controls,

i used the ground wire from the cigarette for ground, the power for power, and the one that makes it light up for remote lol,
should i move those to a diff location?
also I'm going to strip the wires and solder them properly, i don't want issues later on, i have till tuesday to do this myself or ill pay someone to do it for me

so if you guys can help me in anyway that would be awesome thanks in advance