I found some oversteer the first time I tried to push a little. I almost pushed right through a corner into some grass. Not cool.

 

On a car that is a terminal understeerer by design?

 

Sorry I do not have the time at the moment to reply to each individual posting.

I've done the simplest of things yesterday and reduced the tire pressure from near 40PSI to the recommended values (considering load and "normal" driving speed).

Result: As anticipated, the ride is slightly less harsh, but there was no improvoment in the handling at all and it remains as described at the start of this thread.

I also had asked someone knowledgeable to test drive the car and his almost immediate reaction was

1. the handling is not right
2. the tires by themselves can not possibly be the only factor in causing the ill-handling

I've explained I've already had the dealership check the alignment once after the initial aligment when the tires were first installed and nothing out of the ordinary was found.

Nonetheless, he recommended I have the alignment checked again.

Somone had asked if I had the values indicating the adjsutment: onfortunately the invoice does not provide that detail. I thought about checking that earlier as well to see the deltas between the before and after, but no luck on getting the alignment values indicating the change.

Someone else also mentioned that with time the new thread and some other coating (? i think) would be scrubbed off and improve the handling. Either I am getting used to the handling as it is, or that indeed is happening (i now have about 1000 miles since the install). But there's a long way to go until the handling returns to "normal" (as before the tire/alignment change) so I think this is as good as it gets just from "wearing in/breaking in" the tires.

Anyways, i don't wanna criticize the dealership: they know way better than me what to do and how to do it; even so, mistakes are made. And lastly, I don't wanna say this particular tire is poor, because I'm sure it's good for certain conditions. If I had done my homework I would have chosen Z-rated tires to make the most of the near year-round sunny, arid weather.

Will post an update later in a week or so when I do a third aligment (at a diffrent place).

Thanks for all the help.

 

Its odd that they didn't give you the before and after values. I'm just wondering if they did it correctly.

I'd find me another MB dealership to have the alignment checked. When I tried to have an independant tire shop check the alignment, they were unable to get the values to check.

Also...as I am now recalling, when I got my C300 new, you really had to do a lot of correcting while driving. It took several months before the tires/front end to settle down.

 

If they did not charge you for the 3 way fluted bolts then they did not set castor or camber or they found castor & camber to be correct.

Many dealers consider setting front toe to be an alignment. They must do a full 4 wheel alignment.

 

Agree...my indy shop has a high end (forgot the name) laser based unit, which has individual black and white target panels attached to each front and rear wheel to bounce the beams back to the sensor. It is possible to watch the values change toward nominal on the primary console screen as each adjustment is under way.

 

Do you have staggered wheels/tires? Did you check each tire to be sure they are same size and proper location? I read on a thread a MB dealer somewhere in USA put staggered wheels on the wrong conrners during a tire change. u never know with some of the shops

 

Probably a John Bean, Hunter or similar.

 

That's it...Hunter!

 

I have these tires as well and I love them ! It's not the tires :

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-replaced.html

Regardless, sorry to hear about your situation, and good luck with finding a resolution !

Nick

 

I have same tires, original. Handling is ok, but once you add more PSI car becomes harsh and it looses the grip. I will replace mines with Pilot Sport A/S Plus.

 

This is why I'm scared to have an alignment done.


Good luck. I'm sure if you keep working at it, you will get everything sorted!

 

"Push" is an Indycar-invented term which refers to understeer. Versus oversteer when the tail swings out and MXMs do cause oversteer. Personal experience on a service loaner 2010 C300. My Bridgestone RE050A's don't contribute to either and the car's cornering is neutral.

 

I suspect if "pushed" (as in, "pushed to the limits" as I'm guessing the OP meant) that your car would tend to understeer also, by design, unless modified.

 

Correct!