2011 LED DRL installed - Having issue
12-16-2013, 10:16 AM
#351
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Possible Wiring Solution??
Sorry to blow up this thread but seeing as no one really has any input to my questions I will go ahead and ask another. If I disconnect my eyelid wires and splice them together and re-route the wiring to the DRL's (coupled with a resistor) would that allow me to have the Daytime running effect that I want as well as disable the eyelids and also not produce an error message from them? 
01-03-2014, 12:55 PM
#352
Member
I have an extra driver side DRL for sale if anyone wants to purchase. It is brand new never installed and I will sell for $100 shipped anywhere in USA. PM me with any questions.
01-05-2014, 03:44 PM
#353
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2008 Mercedes C300 4Matic Sport Sedan
Okay, I have literally read this entire forum and still dont quite understand the best way to wire the DRLs on my 2009 C350. Currently mine dont come on during the day unless i switch the light control knob to the right one click. I wired them directly to the side markers plain and simple. They work great but I am getting annoyed with having to switch them on/off every time i get in my car. My goal is to have them to have them on all the time and also when I unlock my car and 15ish sec delay when I park and turn of the engine/lock the car (just like the fogs used to do). Also, Im getting the error from my fogs since they are just zip tied behind my bumper...any solutions that are cheap/free?
On a side note...has anyone found a way to actually disable the eyelids and not get an error. I think the car would look really clean with just the DRL and side markers on during the day and DRL, headlights, and markers at night.
On a side note...has anyone found a way to actually disable the eyelids and not get an error. I think the car would look really clean with just the DRL and side markers on during the day and DRL, headlights, and markers at night.
To correct for the fog light out warning, you'll need a fairly large resistor wired in place of the bulbs that used to be there. The h11s that you're replacing draw 55W at 12-15v. Reasonably a resistor that pulls ~35W should do the trick. I can come back and add what it should be, but switching tabs on my iPad makes me lose what I've typed here because it refreshes the page when I come back.
Here's what I'm tackling:
I want my DRLs to function like factory ones for just about any car. This means that they're on full bright during the day, and dim at night. Additionally I want them to dim the side that is blinking when I use the turn signals. My LEDs I got are a direct 12v strip without the need of resistors at all.
I have to post the relay diagram from my computer because I don't have them on here.
From what I've seen, the OEM LEDs run at 3.7v or so. That means you'll need a 4.7K ohm resistor by my guess. Once I'm on my computer I can verify, so that's just a guess for that one.
For the eyelids, you need another relay altogether. You need an eight pin relay to do it. I'll get a diagram for how to wire that too. I don't remember exactly what it's called, or I would just tell you to search it as I'm sure there are plenty of them online already. I didn't want to leave you hanging much longer, as I know how frustrating these things can be.
Make a list of exactly what you want your lights to do in each situation, and I can start a relay setup that should work. I've been working on mine for about a week, and I'm just waiting on the relays to be delivered to my door on Tuesday and then I can make a video showing them completed. Right now I just have pictures of what I have tested using my drill battery (14.4v).
The links work, but I'm not sure why they don't display in the forum now. Sorry you have to go to my photostream to actually see them.
First Relay (this one would dim both sides when using the turn signal on either side):
Then I realized I was over-complicating things and figured I could do 2 on either side and only have one side dim at a time:
Dim mode with a 1K ohm resistor (my lights draw 4 amps at 14v, so a 1K ohm resistor up to 1/2W was perfect for it to bring the load down to about 1.3 amps and 9-10v for a dim mode):
Full Bright mode:
Off but installed in the car. I took the time to pain the housing black because I'm doing a black/red combo throughout the car and eliminating chrome.
Headlight (5000K HID bulb, factory bi-xenon setup) with LED eyelids (5000K also) and DRL on in full bright mode.
And running with headlights on and DRL in dim mode. (I need to replace one of the eyelid LEDs because it doesn't quite match)
One last shot from the front to get an idea of brightness. You can see the drill battery on the windshield that's powering the light.
Brad
Last edited by hondafan; 01-05-2014 at 06:42 PM. Reason: Added photos and relay diagrams
01-05-2014, 03:46 PM
#354
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2008 Mercedes C300 4Matic Sport Sedan
Sorry to blow up this thread but seeing as no one really has any input to my questions I will go ahead and ask another. If I disconnect my eyelid wires and splice them together and re-route the wiring to the DRL's (coupled with a resistor) would that allow me to have the Daytime running effect that I want as well as disable the eyelids and also not produce an error message from them?
I'll figure out which color wire is going in on the connector for the back of the headlight. Hope that will help.
01-09-2014, 11:09 AM
#355
Member
Thanks for the info, you seem quite knowlegeable when it comes to the wiring portion of this project and that is my falling off point. I would really love a conrete set of directions about the wiring (exactly which wires to tap into) because I am afraid to jump into trial and error as I do not want to damage anything. I believe I can correct the foglight error no issue by just wiring the correct resistor inline with the foglight wiring.
As for the DRLs, I am thinking that I can perhaps accomplish my goal with diodes (I am still not 100% comfortable with choosing the correct diodes). Since diodes only allow current to flow in one direction, I believe I could create a lead from a constant (alternator perhaps?) and a lead from the side marker and splice the two together for the positive of the DRL without getting any errors. See my diagram below.
All I really want is for the LEDs to:
a. always be on when the engine is running.
b. come on when unlocked.
c. delay when parked/ engine off/ doors locked.
c. I would LIKE them to be slightly dimmed at night but not a priority.
As for the DRLs, I am thinking that I can perhaps accomplish my goal with diodes (I am still not 100% comfortable with choosing the correct diodes). Since diodes only allow current to flow in one direction, I believe I could create a lead from a constant (alternator perhaps?) and a lead from the side marker and splice the two together for the positive of the DRL without getting any errors. See my diagram below.
All I really want is for the LEDs to:
a. always be on when the engine is running.
b. come on when unlocked.
c. delay when parked/ engine off/ doors locked.
c. I would LIKE them to be slightly dimmed at night but not a priority.
I'm currently working on accomplishing exactly what you're describing but not with bumper-mounted LEDs. I've mounted mine around the projector shroud in the main headlight. I'll post pictures later as I have them truly completed. So far, I have them mounted and have figured out the wiring, so I'll just post my relay diagram that I created in MS Paint. I hope that it helps you with what to do on yours.
To correct for the fog light out warning, you'll need a fairly large resistor wired in place of the bulbs that used to be there. The h11s that you're replacing draw 55W at 12-15v. Reasonably a resistor that pulls ~35W should do the trick. I can come back and add what it should be, but switching tabs on my iPad makes me lose what I've typed here because it refreshes the page when I come back.
Here's what I'm tackling:
I want my DRLs to function like factory ones for just about any car. This means that they're on full bright during the day, and dim at night. Additionally I want them to dim the side that is blinking when I use the turn signals. My LEDs I got are a direct 12v strip without the need of resistors at all.
I have to post the relay diagram from my computer because I don't have them on here.
From what I've seen, the OEM LEDs run at 3.7v or so. That means you'll need a 4.7K ohm resistor by my guess. Once I'm on my computer I can verify, so that's just a guess for that one.
For the eyelids, you need another relay altogether. You need an eight pin relay to do it. I'll get a diagram for how to wire that too. I don't remember exactly what it's called, or I would just tell you to search it as I'm sure there are plenty of them online already. I didn't want to leave you hanging much longer, as I know how frustrating these things can be.
Make a list of exactly what you want your lights to do in each situation, and I can start a relay setup that should work. I've been working on mine for about a week, and I'm just waiting on the relays to be delivered to my door on Tuesday and then I can make a video showing them completed. Right now I just have pictures of what I have tested using my drill battery (14.4v).
The links work, but I'm not sure why they don't display in the forum now. Sorry you have to go to my photostream to actually see them.
First Relay (this one would dim both sides when using the turn signal on either side):
Then I realized I was over-complicating things and figured I could do 2 on either side and only have one side dim at a time:
Dim mode with a 1K ohm resistor (my lights draw 4 amps at 14v, so a 1K ohm resistor up to 1/2W was perfect for it to bring the load down to about 1.3 amps and 9-10v for a dim mode):
Full Bright mode:
Off but installed in the car. I took the time to pain the housing black because I'm doing a black/red combo throughout the car and eliminating chrome.
Headlight (5000K HID bulb, factory bi-xenon setup) with LED eyelids (5000K also) and DRL on in full bright mode.
And running with headlights on and DRL in dim mode. (I need to replace one of the eyelid LEDs because it doesn't quite match)
One last shot from the front to get an idea of brightness. You can see the drill battery on the windshield that's powering the light.
Brad
To correct for the fog light out warning, you'll need a fairly large resistor wired in place of the bulbs that used to be there. The h11s that you're replacing draw 55W at 12-15v. Reasonably a resistor that pulls ~35W should do the trick. I can come back and add what it should be, but switching tabs on my iPad makes me lose what I've typed here because it refreshes the page when I come back.
Here's what I'm tackling:
I want my DRLs to function like factory ones for just about any car. This means that they're on full bright during the day, and dim at night. Additionally I want them to dim the side that is blinking when I use the turn signals. My LEDs I got are a direct 12v strip without the need of resistors at all.
I have to post the relay diagram from my computer because I don't have them on here.
From what I've seen, the OEM LEDs run at 3.7v or so. That means you'll need a 4.7K ohm resistor by my guess. Once I'm on my computer I can verify, so that's just a guess for that one.
For the eyelids, you need another relay altogether. You need an eight pin relay to do it. I'll get a diagram for how to wire that too. I don't remember exactly what it's called, or I would just tell you to search it as I'm sure there are plenty of them online already. I didn't want to leave you hanging much longer, as I know how frustrating these things can be.
Make a list of exactly what you want your lights to do in each situation, and I can start a relay setup that should work. I've been working on mine for about a week, and I'm just waiting on the relays to be delivered to my door on Tuesday and then I can make a video showing them completed. Right now I just have pictures of what I have tested using my drill battery (14.4v).
The links work, but I'm not sure why they don't display in the forum now. Sorry you have to go to my photostream to actually see them.
First Relay (this one would dim both sides when using the turn signal on either side):
Then I realized I was over-complicating things and figured I could do 2 on either side and only have one side dim at a time:
Dim mode with a 1K ohm resistor (my lights draw 4 amps at 14v, so a 1K ohm resistor up to 1/2W was perfect for it to bring the load down to about 1.3 amps and 9-10v for a dim mode):
Full Bright mode:
Off but installed in the car. I took the time to pain the housing black because I'm doing a black/red combo throughout the car and eliminating chrome.
Headlight (5000K HID bulb, factory bi-xenon setup) with LED eyelids (5000K also) and DRL on in full bright mode.
And running with headlights on and DRL in dim mode. (I need to replace one of the eyelid LEDs because it doesn't quite match)
One last shot from the front to get an idea of brightness. You can see the drill battery on the windshield that's powering the light.
Brad
Last edited by sharkey_lsu; 01-09-2014 at 11:12 AM. Reason: forgot image.
01-09-2014, 03:27 PM
#356
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2012 e350 4Matic
Setup complete/issues
Hey all, i have the complete DRL setup complete, i have 1 problem. During the summer the lights run perfect without any issues. Now that i am in the cold and under 30 degrees, the DRL lights start to flicker, anytime it is above 30 degrees it will not flicker and works fine.... How can i get around this? Any help is much appreciated...
02-10-2014, 02:47 PM
#358
Member
Anyone in the Houston area performed this installation and willing to help me out? (I'll pay for your time if so)
I have completed everything but proper wiring and I am not comfortable wiring a relay myself as I am unsure how/where to tap the control lead of the relay into. I am really getting frustrated with this issue and none of the shops that I have visited are willing to "take a chance" on doing the wiring and the dealership was no help. I am really starting to wish I never went through with this project (although the DRL's do look really good)
I have completed everything but proper wiring and I am not comfortable wiring a relay myself as I am unsure how/where to tap the control lead of the relay into. I am really getting frustrated with this issue and none of the shops that I have visited are willing to "take a chance" on doing the wiring and the dealership was no help. I am really starting to wish I never went through with this project (although the DRL's do look really good)
02-10-2014, 03:38 PM
#359
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'11 C350 '13 F150 lariat
sharkey not on here much Im answering ur PM in open so others can read. this is really simple dont overthink and just follow my directions. Get a standard relay usually 30 amps, doesnt matter size u only need 1 amp of it for LEDs. Take a single power line from battery and fuse it (3-5amp fuse is fine) and send it to power in on relay. Take a ground run from ground on relay, and ground to anything metal or battery, U can tie the grounds from LEDs if you want or use seperate locations, doesnt matter. On the power trigger u run a single wire to EITHER side of the 30amp wiper fuse under hood, use a fuse tap or anything, u can even jam the wire strands in the fuse tab and insert but its a little ghetto. Power out is split to the 2 LEDs on their respective power in, u power both LEDs w this relay. Ground from LEDs to any ground or tie into ground on relay, doesnt matter. NO caps or any diodes needed, lights have plenty of power from battery. done, very simple 4 wires and couldnt be easier. If you want other features u need to setup a isolating relay, and u piggy back another relay to do the unlock blink or whatever else u want to do. Isolating is necessary because u dont want to backfeed power from one relay to another circuit, 12v is meant to run one way. They have relays that are complex that do 2 and 3 operations with multiple triggers, thats a whole nother story I cant teach electronics here. This method lights come on w key and of w key in first, second click, and run, and stay on bright all the time, been running mine bright for 2 years no probs its like having fogs it looks great lots of compliments
Last edited by jimmythegreek; 02-10-2014 at 03:41 PM.
02-10-2014, 03:45 PM
#360
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'11 C350 '13 F150 lariat
another simple diagram.......
http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm
where it says power from ignition u will use power from 30amp wiper
where it says power to headlight,horn, etc u will run that to LEDs, just double ur wire cause u have 2 LEDS that need power
its 4 simple wires and where u see switch u could mount a switch under dash or wherever if you wanna be able to turn them completely off, I have done a few this way for stealth, on mine its on always
http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm
where it says power from ignition u will use power from 30amp wiper
where it says power to headlight,horn, etc u will run that to LEDs, just double ur wire cause u have 2 LEDS that need power
its 4 simple wires and where u see switch u could mount a switch under dash or wherever if you wanna be able to turn them completely off, I have done a few this way for stealth, on mine its on always
02-10-2014, 06:18 PM
#361
Jimmythegeek nice write up. My question now is that I have the same year as u 2011. From wat I see on the led I have to cut the wire and work from there. But what's pos and neg on the wire from led? I won't get an error when I cut the wire?right?
02-13-2014, 12:45 PM
#362
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'11 C350 '13 F150 lariat
Use a test light and probe the power and ground wires. Cut the 12v a little long so u can reconnect later and jump the two 12v positives to the relay. U only get an error message when the lights turn to dim u dont get one otherwise. If that error bothers u just wire in a LED error cancellor to the other side of the power from the vehicles wiring and make a new ground to chassis.....problem solved
02-24-2014, 10:09 AM
#363
Member
...still having issues
I have completed the install and followed your reccomendations but the DRLs do not come on when the car is unlocked and they do not delay when the car is turned off/locked. This is a big disappointment because those features are ones that I really want to keep. I have the relay switched by the 30 amp wiper fuse and power coming directly from the battery post. I am satisfied that I was able to eliminate the foglight errors and also never have to touch the foglight switch again, but I think I need to find another fuse to tap so that I can get those final features that I want.
Also, I know everything is wired correctly (and Im not using the altrernator for power in) because when I tap into the COMAND fuse, the lights come on at unlock but they stay on forever (or else I didnt wait long enough for them to turn off). Maybe the 2009 doesn't turn the wipers on until the engine is on? Any suggestions?
Also, I know everything is wired correctly (and Im not using the altrernator for power in) because when I tap into the COMAND fuse, the lights come on at unlock but they stay on forever (or else I didnt wait long enough for them to turn off). Maybe the 2009 doesn't turn the wipers on until the engine is on? Any suggestions?
another simple diagram.......
http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm
where it says power from ignition u will use power from 30amp wiper
where it says power to headlight,horn, etc u will run that to LEDs, just double ur wire cause u have 2 LEDS that need power
its 4 simple wires and where u see switch u could mount a switch under dash or wherever if you wanna be able to turn them completely off, I have done a few this way for stealth, on mine its on always
http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm
where it says power from ignition u will use power from 30amp wiper
where it says power to headlight,horn, etc u will run that to LEDs, just double ur wire cause u have 2 LEDS that need power
its 4 simple wires and where u see switch u could mount a switch under dash or wherever if you wanna be able to turn them completely off, I have done a few this way for stealth, on mine its on always
02-24-2014, 06:11 PM
#364
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2009 W204 C200K AMG Package
I have completed the install and followed your reccomendations but the DRLs do not come on when the car is unlocked and they do not delay when the car is turned off/locked. This is a big disappointment because those features are ones that I really want to keep. I have the relay switched by the 30 amp wiper fuse and power coming directly from the battery post. I am satisfied that I was able to eliminate the foglight errors and also never have to touch the foglight switch again, but I think I need to find another fuse to tap so that I can get those final features that I want.
Also, I know everything is wired correctly (and Im not using the altrernator for power in) because when I tap into the COMAND fuse, the lights come on at unlock but they stay on forever (or else I didnt wait long enough for them to turn off). Maybe the 2009 doesn't turn the wipers on until the engine is on? Any suggestions?
Also, I know everything is wired correctly (and Im not using the altrernator for power in) because when I tap into the COMAND fuse, the lights come on at unlock but they stay on forever (or else I didnt wait long enough for them to turn off). Maybe the 2009 doesn't turn the wipers on until the engine is on? Any suggestions?
Looking forward to see what you end up with! As I am seeking the same functionality as you. Please keep us updated.
I really hope it's doable
Last edited by Mario204; 02-25-2014 at 02:36 PM.
02-26-2014, 12:38 PM
#365
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'11 C350 '13 F150 lariat
sharkey adding those features is possible but the relay setup I posted is just for turning the LEDs on w the ignition. Having them blink is possible so is a delay or anything else u want to do, u just have to do ur homework. good source is the12volt.com......to give u the basic idea, if u had fogs that did the unlock blink previous to the LED install u will tap a second trigger wire for ur relay from the 12v trigger on fogs and that will make them blink w key unlock and do the delay feature......BUT U MUST prevent 12v back feed, once wires touch 12v will flow both ways and do damage, to prevent this u install the proper rated diode (in this case just about any will do its low draw) on BOTH 12v triggers wires, w the black band placed into the 12v flow, this will prevent backfeeding, and u now have a double isolated 2 trigger relay system. theres TONS of diagrams and info on 12volt site. U can also install a capacitor across the relay itself and make the delay longer, theres lots u can do, I did a car where the guy wanted them to blink w the turn signal, like an audi, can do anything u can think up if its wired correctly.......and BTW all the diodes and capacitors etc. are available in the slide out bins at radioshack........on a side note, if u have a 2011 or newer like me there is no flash unlock, what I use is the door power lock actuator feed, but I use the relay for that setup as a trigger because the door lock reverses polarity w each press, so u need positive/negative cycles, and thats a tricky setup for a newbie.....
Last edited by jimmythegreek; 02-26-2014 at 12:46 PM.
02-26-2014, 09:50 PM
#366
Member
Thanks for the additional info, you've been a big help. When I get a chance I'm going to research how to use a diode to add the license plate lights into the relay switch. I was under the impression that the lights would delay using the wiper fuse as I took your advice to mean that the wipers would receive power with unlock. I suppose that was a misunderstanding on my part.
On a side note to others considering this project...I've found the part numbers for the actual wire contacts for the DRL plugs. They weren't cheap at the dealership, but they seem to be much cheaper online. Part number and image below.
A 000 982 30 26
On a side note to others considering this project...I've found the part numbers for the actual wire contacts for the DRL plugs. They weren't cheap at the dealership, but they seem to be much cheaper online. Part number and image below.
A 000 982 30 26
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02-28-2014, 04:08 PM
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'11 C350 '13 F150 lariat
another trigger u can tap for extended stay of LEDs is the accesory that feeds the 12v cigarette lighter. It stays on for like a min after car is off and comes on w the key unlock I think
03-13-2014, 05:54 PM
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2009 W204 C200K AMG Package
03-18-2014, 10:02 AM
#370
Newbie
Anyone have a link for a preferred DRL set (that will fit a 2010 c300 sport?) or am I buying from ebay, from China...
ALSO, there are 6 leds in the actual DRL correct not 4?
ALSO, there are 6 leds in the actual DRL correct not 4?
05-29-2014, 02:39 PM
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2010 e350
So I got all the trim, and leds ready, but my customer decides to back out.
Parts are special order and will be charged at least 10% restock fee. LEDs are none re-refundable.
My question is if it will fit a 2009 c350?
Parts are special order and will be charged at least 10% restock fee. LEDs are none re-refundable.
My question is if it will fit a 2009 c350?
05-29-2014, 02:46 PM
#372
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09 C300 4matic
12-16-2014, 02:35 PM
#373
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2011 Bumper
So it didnt take long for my fancy new DRLs to get destroyed. I hit a raccoon or something on the freeway which somehow managed to completely mangle my bumper and rip out one of my the DRLs. Anyways, I will be having it repaired under insurance and I want to go the easiest route to get back to the the DRL style. Any suggestions on what would be needed to install the 2011 bumper? Is it the exact same bumber with the exception of the DRL vs Foglight holes? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
12-16-2014, 03:14 PM
#374
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C-350 2010 RWD
So it didnt take long for my fancy new DRLs to get destroyed. I hit a raccoon or something on the freeway which somehow managed to completely mangle my bumper and rip out one of my the DRLs. Anyways, I will be having it repaired under insurance and I want to go the easiest route to get back to the the DRL style. Any suggestions on what would be needed to install the 2011 bumper? Is it the exact same bumber with the exception of the DRL vs Foglight holes? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I ran for 1 year with only the front bumper done and it will fit without a hassle except that you will see a minor gap Under the headlamps between the headlamps and the bumper. Nothing too major and no one will probably ever notice. If you decide to swap the headlights and the Hood like I did you will need to also swap the headlight connectors and it will require better electrical skills to figure out what goes where. You will actually need to remove the metal terminals from the connector and insert them back in the new ones and a couple of metal terminals are smaller in the new set up. Also you will need to install a load resistor to one of your eyebrow wires since you will only use one to the new headlamp. I bought an aluminum C63 Hood (retrofit because original will not fit) and a beautiful set of DEPO halogen headlights. You can find those headlights on eBay for around $400 for the set and they are excellent quality and very well detailed. The great part is that they have the projector lens instead of reflectors and they also have a shutter for the hi-beams which means that if you install an aftermarket CANBUS HID Xenon kit you will be able to still have the hi-beams functionnal.
Also I have re-used the stock fog lights which I have installed behind the lower grill of my new bumper so all wires re-used, no error codes and great look for free. I just made some brackets with aluminium flatbar which I have screwed to the aluminum bumper reinforcment.
Also I re-used the bumper corner light wires (since there are none on my new bumper) to install ambient lighting thru the grills of my vented front fenders. I have installed them way behind so that you don't actually see the light itself but only a nice devil red glare :- ) Once again no error codes since I used LEDs with the same watts as the OEM 5W bulbs.
I bought my facelift C63 retro-fit bumper from one of the forum member. His name is gary@suvneer it was a perfect fit and OEM quality bumper made of polypropylene (nothing like the crappy fiberglass schit)
Good luck
Last edited by toxicwaste; 12-16-2014 at 03:26 PM.
12-16-2014, 03:35 PM
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C-350 2010 RWD
The fender lights are from the wires that I re-used from the bumper amber corner lights.
If you look closely you will see the OEM fog lights I re-used behind the lower grill of the new bumper.
