DIY: Backup camera for 25$ (with pictures)
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S350 BT 4MATIC
I looked back at some pics I took and you are correct.
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From: Bay Area, CA
2011 C300 Sport, P1, MM, Wood, Heated FS, DIY rearview camera.
The existing cable in the video input at the head unit goes to the adapter in the glove box, and is for ipod videos, etc. You cannot have both working; you need to select video camera in the software, and remove the existing cable. I guess you could connect your camera cable to the glove box connector if you did not use an ipod.
In Video in Motion Installation, the installer added a box which does not connect to the green video input, but to another dual cable connector. Someone knows what that added box does? Does it have anything to do with keeping both rear view camera and iPod video?
I wish the installer slows down and add description to each connector.
Last edited by C300CA; Aug 28, 2011 at 07:22 PM. Reason: more details
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From: Bay Area, CA
2011 C300 Sport, P1, MM, Wood, Heated FS, DIY rearview camera.
The existing cable in the video input at the head unit goes to the adapter in the glove box, and is for ipod videos, etc. You cannot have both working; you need to select video camera in the software, and remove the existing cable. I guess you could connect your camera cable to the glove box connector if you did not use an ipod.
I think I missed some major steps.
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From: Mississauga
GLA45 AMG, GLC43 AMG
Set the SRVC option on and video aux off. Next exit from the Engineering Mode, remove your key and close the door. Wait about one minute (it is important) and than your camera should work
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Bay Area, CA
2011 C300 Sport, P1, MM, Wood, Heated FS, DIY rearview camera.
Big thank you GateKeeper! It works now! By the way, what are differences among SRVC, DRVM and DRVM-PSC?
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Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Bay Area, CA
2011 C300 Sport, P1, MM, Wood, Heated FS, DIY rearview camera.
I am not sure about this. However, you can get into engineering mode to see if it allows to install rear view camera with SRVC, DRVM and DRVM-PSC selections. If yes, then I believe you can install camera.
I was a little frustrated in the installation process.With great info + help from the forum, I am able to finish it and it is very, very well worth the time and effort and MONEY (only like $25 total).
I was a little frustrated in the installation process.With great info + help from the forum, I am able to finish it and it is very, very well worth the time and effort and MONEY (only like $25 total).
Last edited by C300CA; Aug 31, 2011 at 11:55 AM. Reason: more info
Super Member
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From: Bay Area, CA
2011 C300 Sport, P1, MM, Wood, Heated FS, DIY rearview camera.
Finally my rear view camera is working.
I found FARKA connector to head unit is too long. the other angled connector blocks the FARKA connector. I found I do not need FARKA cable. It is the SMB connector which is the key part of the FARKA cable. I got a low profile SMA connector and made the cable (SMA to RAC female jack). If someone wants to buy SMA, buy the right-angle type which should be lower profile than the straight SMA. I don't have the locking feature of the FARKA connector, but SMB is very tight already.
I used full-time 12V for the camera. Tried many times and one time I saw this horizontal rolling lines. It was about three lines across the entire screen. shifted away and back to R, it disappeared. I might try a big cap on the camera 12V. Only one time I saw lines so it'll be difficult to know if adding cap would improve anything.
This camera S/N is not great but I can see pretty well day or night. Image distortion is minimal.
I found FARKA connector to head unit is too long. the other angled connector blocks the FARKA connector. I found I do not need FARKA cable. It is the SMB connector which is the key part of the FARKA cable. I got a low profile SMA connector and made the cable (SMA to RAC female jack). If someone wants to buy SMA, buy the right-angle type which should be lower profile than the straight SMA. I don't have the locking feature of the FARKA connector, but SMB is very tight already.
I used full-time 12V for the camera. Tried many times and one time I saw this horizontal rolling lines. It was about three lines across the entire screen. shifted away and back to R, it disappeared. I might try a big cap on the camera 12V. Only one time I saw lines so it'll be difficult to know if adding cap would improve anything.
This camera S/N is not great but I can see pretty well day or night. Image distortion is minimal.
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From: Hollywood
Black C300
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05 CL65 AMG, 07 Ferrari F430, 03 Range Rover HSE
it should be powered from ignition. It should be powered as long as the car is running. This allows the camera sensor to get powered up and synced before relaying the video to the screen. This only takes a decent camera bout 1.5 seconds to do, but when you flip to reverse, it should be ready. The only problem with this scheme - is the cheap cameras can not tolerate that duty cycle.
However, that is how all car manufacturers do it, and how we do it in our shop, as well as all our dealers. The bad part is the very name of this thread... you simply can not get a decent camera for under $100 - we are also an independent testing company and have tested dozens of cameras - trust me, it can't be done. If you don't mind replacing the camera every so often, then use a cheaper camera and power it from ignition.
However, that is how all car manufacturers do it, and how we do it in our shop, as well as all our dealers. The bad part is the very name of this thread... you simply can not get a decent camera for under $100 - we are also an independent testing company and have tested dozens of cameras - trust me, it can't be done. If you don't mind replacing the camera every so often, then use a cheaper camera and power it from ignition.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Hollywood
Black C300
it should be powered from ignition. It should be powered as long as the car is running. This allows the camera sensor to get powered up and synced before relaying the video to the screen. This only takes a decent camera bout 1.5 seconds to do, but when you flip to reverse, it should be ready. The only problem with this scheme - is the cheap cameras can not tolerate that duty cycle.
However, that is how all car manufacturers do it, and how we do it in our shop, as well as all our dealers. The bad part is the very name of this thread... you simply can not get a decent camera for under $100 - we are also an independent testing company and have tested dozens of cameras - trust me, it can't be done. If you don't mind replacing the camera every so often, then use a cheaper camera and power it from ignition.
However, that is how all car manufacturers do it, and how we do it in our shop, as well as all our dealers. The bad part is the very name of this thread... you simply can not get a decent camera for under $100 - we are also an independent testing company and have tested dozens of cameras - trust me, it can't be done. If you don't mind replacing the camera every so often, then use a cheaper camera and power it from ignition.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 803
Likes: 37
From: Bay Area, CA
2011 C300 Sport, P1, MM, Wood, Heated FS, DIY rearview camera.
it should be powered from ignition. It should be powered as long as the car is running. This allows the camera sensor to get powered up and synced before relaying the video to the screen. This only takes a decent camera bout 1.5 seconds to do, but when you flip to reverse, it should be ready. The only problem with this scheme - is the cheap cameras can not tolerate that duty cycle.
However, that is how all car manufacturers do it, and how we do it in our shop, as well as all our dealers. The bad part is the very name of this thread... you simply can not get a decent camera for under $100 - we are also an independent testing company and have tested dozens of cameras - trust me, it can't be done. If you don't mind replacing the camera every so often, then use a cheaper camera and power it from ignition.
However, that is how all car manufacturers do it, and how we do it in our shop, as well as all our dealers. The bad part is the very name of this thread... you simply can not get a decent camera for under $100 - we are also an independent testing company and have tested dozens of cameras - trust me, it can't be done. If you don't mind replacing the camera every so often, then use a cheaper camera and power it from ignition.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 803
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From: Bay Area, CA
2011 C300 Sport, P1, MM, Wood, Heated FS, DIY rearview camera.
If backup 12V is bad, then it must be the power supply to cause flickering/rolling horizontal lines, etc. I am thinking to use a step-down regulator, 12V down to 11V hopefully is still within most camera's operation specs. This way the power on camera (11V) is super clean. Wish I had an oscilloscope at home...
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Bay Area, CA
2011 C300 Sport, P1, MM, Wood, Heated FS, DIY rearview camera.
I tested the rear right side connector. The right most thick brown wire (towards the right side body) is ground as mentioned by previous post above. The third wire is a full-time 12V wire, even without engine running as long as key is in position 1. That's the 12V I used for camera. I don't know where it comes from but on that connector I think it's the only FT 12V source.
I need to find the ignition wire.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Bay Area, CA
2011 C300 Sport, P1, MM, Wood, Heated FS, DIY rearview camera.
I changed 12V connection from rear right lamp connector to the fuse box. Found fuse 71 (called 'socket front' in the fuse map) and fuse 76 ('socket, rear') are easy to access. I soldered camera 12V to fuse 71 wire (light pink), and soldered ground to one of the chasiss ground wire in the bundle next to the fuse box. Wrapped both with electric tape.
Now, as long as key is in position 1 or above, no matter where the light switch is set at, shift to R, rear view shows up clearly, no flickering nor horizontal rolling lines, with engine running or not, inside dark garage or on the bright street. No cap is used accross 12V to ground.
Rest is let time tell me if this configuration is reliable or not.
Now, as long as key is in position 1 or above, no matter where the light switch is set at, shift to R, rear view shows up clearly, no flickering nor horizontal rolling lines, with engine running or not, inside dark garage or on the bright street. No cap is used accross 12V to ground.
Rest is let time tell me if this configuration is reliable or not.
Last edited by C300CA; Sep 5, 2011 at 01:36 PM. Reason: more accurste statement
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GLK 250
I changed 12V connection from rear right lamp connector to the fuse box. Found fuse 71 (called 'socket front' in the fuse map) and fuse 76 ('socket, rear') are easy to access. I soldered camera 12V to fuse 71 wire (light pink), and soldered ground to one of the chasiss ground wire in the bundle next to the fuse box. Wrapped both with electric tape.
Now, as long as key is in position 1 or above, no matter where the light switch is set at, shift to R, rear view shows up clearly, no flickering nor horizontal rolling lines, with engine running or not, inside dark garage or on the bright street. No cap is used accross 12V to ground.
Rest is let time tell me if this configuration is reliable or not.
Now, as long as key is in position 1 or above, no matter where the light switch is set at, shift to R, rear view shows up clearly, no flickering nor horizontal rolling lines, with engine running or not, inside dark garage or on the bright street. No cap is used accross 12V to ground.
Rest is let time tell me if this configuration is reliable or not.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 803
Likes: 37
From: Bay Area, CA
2011 C300 Sport, P1, MM, Wood, Heated FS, DIY rearview camera.
To be honest with you, I don't know how to post pictures, and the old laptop I am using now does not even have SD reader in it. I will take pictures later. For now:
My trunk fuse box is on right side. Open the fuse box "door", looking into the fuse box, on its right side, one red module is on the top and one yellow module is on the bottom. Each module holds a few fuses depending on what options the car has (I think). Fuse # 71 in the yellow module is the one I used for camera power. My fuse map says it's one of the 12V accessory sockets. There are at least one more 12V accessory socket but I found fuse $71 is easier to access. All fuse numbers are stamped on the black plastic base that module sits in. Fuse numbers are next to fuse. You may need a flash light to see those numbers, as they are black on black. If you look closely, you can see which wire connects to # 71.
I peeled off a little wire insulation, enough to solder camera power wire on, and wrapped with electrical tape. Ground wire bundle is easy to find.
Hope the above is enough information.
My trunk fuse box is on right side. Open the fuse box "door", looking into the fuse box, on its right side, one red module is on the top and one yellow module is on the bottom. Each module holds a few fuses depending on what options the car has (I think). Fuse # 71 in the yellow module is the one I used for camera power. My fuse map says it's one of the 12V accessory sockets. There are at least one more 12V accessory socket but I found fuse $71 is easier to access. All fuse numbers are stamped on the black plastic base that module sits in. Fuse numbers are next to fuse. You may need a flash light to see those numbers, as they are black on black. If you look closely, you can see which wire connects to # 71.
I peeled off a little wire insulation, enough to solder camera power wire on, and wrapped with electrical tape. Ground wire bundle is easy to find.
Hope the above is enough information.
