Installing RearView Camera on 2012 C Class
i use a veyron module on my COMAND NTG4, it doesn't work on the new NTG4.5 from the facelift models but it might still work on the facelift audio 20/50 units
you could ask them on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Veyron-VI-MBC-Reverse-Camera-Video-Interface-for-Mercedes-Benz-W204-C-Class-/280927576263?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item416896a0c7
1. Camera
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Benz-E-class-W212-C-Class-W204-CMOS-NTSC-Car-Backup-Reverse-Rear-View-Camera-/390659693250?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af521dac2&vxp=mtr
2. FAKRA Cable
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-FORD-Video-in-TV-FAKRA-R-A-Cinch-RCA-female-adapter-COMMAND-BLAUPUNKT-/110991103181?pt=UK_CE_GPS_Accessories_Software_ET&hash=item19d795d4cd
3. Add-a-fuse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADD-A-FUSE-ATMPLUG-MINI-BLADE-STYLE-FUSE-TAP-USA-SELLER-FREE-SHIPPING-/221280587642?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Fuses_Fuse_Holders&hash=item338559cf7a


One note: If you can find camera signal/noise ratio specs, buy higher S/N camera. My camera has snow flake noise at night. It is not too bad but a little worse than the GLK loaner I had one time. My camera is only $5 plus shipping so total is like $10.

Fakra end is too big which touches the adjacent connector before I could plug it in. I removed plastic connector housing so it fit in and it is secure enough. Never had any problem in two and half years.
It's been a while so I don't remember everything clearly. I can't find where my very detailed installation note is.
Last edited by C300CA; Feb 12, 2014 at 10:19 AM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG

I didn't use the fuse, didn't even think about using, as the camera current consumption is usually very low. However, I think it's good to have it in the case camera gets short which will burn the fuse in the car.
I lost camera spec sheet but kind of remember its S/N is 40 dB. Someone here said his is like 44 dB? anyway, the GLK loaner camera is not a lot better than mine. I can replace with a better camera anytime, since majority work is the cable routing.
I already set up the Engineering menu to enable the camera (SRVC option) and the screen already switches to the camera screen when I put it into reverse. (Screen shows blank right now, because I still haven't installed everything.)
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to avoid adding more electrical mods if i can.
thanks

Not sure if it could be just a different model year. If your head unit is the same as in 2011, you may need to convert "A" to "SMB". Have you taken head unit out and had a look at the connector?
A - Will going into FAKRA RCA Female end.... and then the FAKRA Female will go into head unit (2nd green plug on head unit). I know i'll have to remove plastic housing on FAKRA Female...
B - **This is my current question**. It seems like it's the "Switch" to let the camera know when the car goes into reverse. Is this needed? Maybe I need to route to a switched power again (maybe the glovebox light, since it's always on?)
C - Will go into rear fuse box panel #71 or #83 using "add a fuse"
D - Will go into a ground in the rear trunk.
As i said earlier... I already changed the engineering menu to SRVC and the head unit already goes to a blank backup screen and seem to be ready to just have the video feed plugged into it.
I have a 2012 C250 Sedan with COMAND by the way.

You can leave "B" hanging first to see if camera works the way it should. If the aux in glove box works for the camera then you can try that to save lots of time.
Last edited by C300CA; Feb 15, 2014 at 03:15 PM. Reason: more info



As for the 12V to camera, I tried connecting to backup light which most people found a bad power, just wanted to see if it is bad. It is. It showed quite a few horizontal lines rotating vertically. then I connected to one of the 12V accessary outlet, forgot which one, front or rear. It works perfectly.
The camera gives my the right orientation, not an upside down, left-right reversed image the first time I tried it. Only thing if I have to dislike is the S/N ratio at night. During the day, perfect image.
My biggest snag was the "Add-a-fuse". This may be my novice skills on wiring/electrical things... but I wasted about 2 hours of troubleshooting because I didn't realize you had to have a "fuse" inserted in slot #1 (no attached fuse and a fuse in slot #2 will not work) attached to the top of the "add-a-fuse" in order for it to work. After that was figured out my last snag was the shortness of wiring the camera comes with. I had several times where my crimped wires broke because closing the trunk would pull and bust the coupling.
For fun, during my install and before putting the dash/COMAND Unit back in, I tested the video in feed by connecting my Nintendo to it. : )
Also, since the 2012's have LED's on the license plate lights it couldn't not be "inserted" into this camera housing like the 2008's-2011's (non-LED). So I only have 1 LED Camera License plate light now.
I haven't tried it at night yet, but my S/N Ratio says "more than 48dB". I hope it is OK at night.
Last edited by lemonstand; Feb 22, 2014 at 05:37 PM.

I am not sure I understand what you said about LED license plate lights. How are they related to camera installation?

My non-LED license plate lights do not relate to camera. I replaced them with LED bulbs but not quite bright enough.
Please let us know how your camera image is at night. Sooner or later I need a better camera.
Last edited by C300CA; Feb 22, 2014 at 08:09 PM.
My biggest snag was the "Add-a-fuse". This may be my novice skills on wiring/electrical things... but I wasted about 2 hours of troubleshooting because I didn't realize you had to have a "fuse" inserted in slot #1 (no attached fuse and a fuse in slot #2 will not work) attached to the top of the "add-a-fuse" in order for it to work. After that was figured out my last snag was the shortness of wiring the camera comes with. I had several times where my crimped wires broke because closing the trunk would pull and bust the coupling.
For fun, during my install and before putting the dash/COMAND Unit back in, I tested the video in feed by connecting my Nintendo to it. : )
Also, since the 2012's have LED's on the license plate lights it couldn't not be "inserted" into this camera housing like the 2008's-2011's (non-LED). So I only have 1 LED Camera License plate light now.
I haven't tried it at night yet, but my S/N Ratio says "more than 48dB". I hope it is OK at night.
The different is I didn't use Add-a-fuse. I wire the camera power to rear cigarette outlet instead. Because I don't want to touch rear sam unit. I 've an experience about broken it previously by cutting rear tail light to power the camera. So, I don't dare to touch it again.
Just to be clear, I would need to purchase the camera, FKRA cable, and maybe the add-a-fuse? Did anybody find out a way to still have two LEDs working with the camera installed?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121150021490...84.m1497.l2649
It metal and a sony CCD. 520 TVL.
I haven't installed yet, but i Plan on drilling a hole in the mounting plate used for the factory camera and mounting there. It'll allow both LED backup lights to remain. Hopefully I have time to put it in this weekend.



