Front Tyre wear
For one tracked car I had, I used aluminum pivot blocks (with zerk fittings) for the bars. Oem had no rear bar, so I sized the bar by design (came to .56" dia), and had 5 different length options, keeping the link vertical. Useed mid length for big tracks, and 1 step stiffer for autox.

This car has likely not seen an alignment rig in a long time, for toe-in to change to excessive toe-out!
May be ok to get a reputable, cheaper place like indep shop, or sears, firestone, etc, to do their free alignment check thing, and then likely just set the front & rear "total toe-in" to the minimal spec. Demand copies of before, after, and spec. before you drive in bay.
But given the severe wear, if you need to deal with camber and caster (for the pull), just go MB service, find a coupon, and bend over.
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Front Axle L----- R
Partial Toe 0.0-- 0.2
Toe 0.2
Camber -0 28' --- -0 52'
Caster +8 48' ---+9 26'
Rear Axle
Partial Toe 0.8 ---- 1.6
Toe 2.4
Camber -0 04'--- -2 22'
Camber Diff +2 17'
The guy doing the alignment said there's no camber adjustment on the fronts, and he couldn't budge the rear to align the camber on the right rear
Not sure how the the adjuster works.....he did show mean what supposed to happen, but in this case it didn't move despite him loosening the bolt. Anyway he said it was the toe that would have contributed to the front tyre wear.
Last edited by desa; Oct 14, 2011 at 08:36 AM.

https://mbworld.org/forums/4763942-post21.html
There is also toe adjustment on the rear.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...le-toe-204.pdf
Some of these alignment shops are half asleep.

I guess without the front camber kit, there's really not a lot to do, but they could at least fix the rear camber for me. They didn't even undo the tie rod bolts as in the picture. They loosened the swing arm bolt to try and adjust the camber. By the looks of things, you need to also get to the tie rod bolts.
I hate getting wheel alignments done. Not many people actually know how to do it, it seems. The guy who normally does it for me professionally everytime has recently departed.....RIP Bob.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG

I hate getting wheel alignments done. Not many people actually know how to do it, it seems. The guy who normally does it for me professionally everytime has recently departed.....RIP Bob.
Front Axle L ---- R
Camber -0 28' --- -0 52'
The MB spec per side for 3 diff't C-CLass Models is (-29',-32',-37') -28', +24' , with a max side to side difference or 24' . [Ref: 30'=30minutes=1/2 degree]
The camber is in spec, but at the limit of side to side variation (sloppy work). I would have asked for -55' +/- 5' per side.
Caster +8 48' --- +9 26'
The MB spec for 3 diff't CLass Models is (10 18',10 21',10 38') -30', +30' , with a max side to side diff of 30' [ref: 10 means 10 degrees]
The side to side diff is 38', exceeding the 30' max. Take the minimal MB spec of 10-18', less 30' allowed, gives the minimum value of 9-48' . Both sides are below a minimum MB spec.
Poor job on Caster.
Partial Toe 0.0 --- 0.2
Don't know MB spec, but likely in spec, and good low number.
Toe 0.2 ... I assume they mean Total toe-in.
I also assume the unit is "Fraction of a Degree" (need to verify with the shop). The MB spec in that unit is .17deg +/- (.17deg). Looks Ok, but I prefer less. [note: .2 degree would be total toe in of .09" measured at OD of 25" dia tire.
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Last edited by kevink2; Oct 15, 2011 at 12:29 AM. Reason: improved clarity

When I buy a Benz I fit the fluted bolts at the first alignment & be done with it. Then you have proper adjustability.
I like cars perfectly aligned. I'm not shy to fit the most expensive of tyres but I don't want them buggered up or driveability messed with.
My alignment shop will not take the vehicle off of the alignment rig until I sign off & then do a printout.
... I forgot to ask for alignment figures from today's alignment (when I got my car, they were closing down for the day), but here are the numbers from last time. If you want the target data, I can give you that as well.
Rear:
Camber: Left -1.33' (the period/dot is degrees), Right -1.10'
Toe: Left 0.10', Right 0.09', Total 0.19'Geometrical Driving Axis: 0.00'
Front:
Camber: Left -0.58', Right -1.03' * (the right was out of range during the read, they later adjusted it but didn't give me an updated print-out)
Caster: Left 10.27', Right 10.52'
Setback: -0.23'
Toe (unpressed): Total 0.04'
Toe (pressed): Total 0.04', Left 0.02', Right 0.01'
Most important, sounds like you bought this car and had several alignments done at the same place. There is NO-WAY you could be down to cords on just the outer edges of front tires, unless the toe-in was excessive. Hard driving would have shown wear across the outer ~3" .
I think you, a CPO owner, need to take this to MB top dogs .. don't know phone#, but they owe you $$$
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The outer wear on the fronts is therefore contributed to the toe being out and tyre pressures at factory specs (too low). These are both now attended to, so hopefully I'll get more mileage before I need to get new tyres, currently 40-50%. I will definitely get those bolts beforehand.
BTW AJ's numbers were in degrees and minutes I think?

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