alignment after new tires?
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2009 C300 4matic luxury
alignment after new tires?
Just put 4 new original equipment tires on my 2009 C300 4Matic Luxury model (Continental ContiProContact 225/45R17 91H), and tire shop wanted to do an alignment. Said ALWAYS should do alignment when replacing tires. I put same tires as originally on car, and old ones showed very even wear. Car has approx 30,000 miles (had tread life left, but one tire picked up nail in bad place and couldn't be repaired, so I opted to replace all 4 at once). There were no indications of alignment issues, such as wear, pulling to side, etc. with the old tires. Is an alignment necessary in my case?
#5
I would... 1. You dont know how the alignment is just by the eyes.
2. Even if you switch wheels, you should do it.
3. You spent so much money on new tires, im sure you want them to last so I dont see why not.
Just my .2¢
2. Even if you switch wheels, you should do it.
3. You spent so much money on new tires, im sure you want them to last so I dont see why not.
Just my .2¢
#6
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On a related issue, I am struck the the OP was so satisfied with ContiProContacts that they purchased them again. Whether wanting smooth and quiet in his luxury model, or wanting improved handling, there are so many other choices one could make to fully experience the capability of the car. OP, were you really that pleased with this model of tire?
#7
I think this is well intended, but perhaps not the optimal strategy. One does not need to base alignment on the eyes, and in fact, one cannot make such an assessment. However, a car which tracks straight AND has no signs of uneven tire wear when examined by the installer is, in all probability, within specs. The reason not to do an alignment when all indicators reveal one is not needed is 1) cost... a couple of hundred bucks for a proper front and rear wheel alignment when needed, and 2) the introduction of unknown variables...making changes when none are needed may introduce other variables which may worsen the situation. Some here will have experienced having an alignment, only to have the car pull even more severely to one side. This can happen when humans are involved.
On a related issue, I am struck the the OP was so satisfied with ContiProContacts that they purchased them again. Whether wanting smooth and quiet in his luxury model, or wanting improved handling, there are so many other choices one could make to fully experience the capability of the car. OP, were you really that pleased with this model of tire?
On a related issue, I am struck the the OP was so satisfied with ContiProContacts that they purchased them again. Whether wanting smooth and quiet in his luxury model, or wanting improved handling, there are so many other choices one could make to fully experience the capability of the car. OP, were you really that pleased with this model of tire?
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#8
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My ubderstanding is that alignment has nothing to do with wheels, meaning not taking wheel as a reference for alignment. If alignment is off, no matter old or new tire, it needs alignment; if aligmnent is right on, old or new tires, it doesn't need...
By the way, none of my cars needs alignment so far. I don't drive a lot. 94 Altima got nearly 100K miles (rear ended), Maxima got 50K (rear ended), RX300 got 67K (has it now) and my daily QX4 (now) got 87K miles, none has needed alignment. I'd think if cars are driven very aggressively or hit something seriously, aligmnent is needes.
By the way, none of my cars needs alignment so far. I don't drive a lot. 94 Altima got nearly 100K miles (rear ended), Maxima got 50K (rear ended), RX300 got 67K (has it now) and my daily QX4 (now) got 87K miles, none has needed alignment. I'd think if cars are driven very aggressively or hit something seriously, aligmnent is needes.
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97 S600 coupe/gf 16 C300 Lux. Former: 08 GL450, 83 300D, 97 C230, 08 c300 luxury, 92 500SL, 93 400E
Circumference of tire/ride height/wheel angle to road changes with new tires. More rubber = more tire=change is orientation to the road, no matter how slight.
But take that away, and you're saying that you can spend $800 on tires, and aren't willing to pony up $100 in "insurance" to make sure you maximize your new tires' life from day 1?
I've never had a car (any make, model) that has remained in spec on alignment for more than 20k.
Do an alignment. And check your air pressure every 2 weeks when tires are cold.
EDIT: my ire is more directed at the subsequent posters who claim it's unnecessary, and not at you for asking. But, that's my answer. And what do I know, I can only get 40k out of Z-rated Michelins on V8 MBs.
But take that away, and you're saying that you can spend $800 on tires, and aren't willing to pony up $100 in "insurance" to make sure you maximize your new tires' life from day 1?
I've never had a car (any make, model) that has remained in spec on alignment for more than 20k.
Do an alignment. And check your air pressure every 2 weeks when tires are cold.
EDIT: my ire is more directed at the subsequent posters who claim it's unnecessary, and not at you for asking. But, that's my answer. And what do I know, I can only get 40k out of Z-rated Michelins on V8 MBs.
Last edited by will_w204; 06-03-2012 at 10:47 AM.
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2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
1) An alignment " has everything to do with wheels" , as it starts off with setting measuring tools on all 4 wheels.
2) an alignment can be off slightly from "right on" , but still within the wide spec'n, and make the car handle better.
#11
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My key point is that there are different levels of tolerance for risk. I won't say one is wrong and the other right...one merely has to decide the level with which one is comfortable.
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2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
Originally Posted by will
Circumference of tire/ride height/wheel angle to road changes with new tires. More rubber = more tire=change is orientation to the road, no matter how slight..
Originally Posted by will
But take that away, and you're saying that you can spend $800 on tires, and aren't willing to pony up $100 in "insurance" to make sure you maximize your new tires' life from day 1?
Originally Posted by will
I've never had a car (any make, model) that has remained in spec on alignment for more than 20k.
I've spent $300-$400 dollars on an alignment on an old saab (didn't help that the old mechanic only had 2 fingers on one hand). The old front tires had "in spec" positive camber, but for better handling I wanted 1 deg neg camber. I supplied the new Saab shims, and let him slowly do the job. I also had measured excessive toe-in, so I wrote a spec for him (.03" - .06") total toe in (split even), and after my car rolled better and mpg's went up from 27 to 30.
I agree with checking your air pressure, with a quality gauge, but once a month is sufficient. But I frequently give a visual to be sure one is not going down with a bad valve or leaking nail.
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97 S600 coupe/gf 16 C300 Lux. Former: 08 GL450, 83 300D, 97 C230, 08 c300 luxury, 92 500SL, 93 400E
My god, are we talking USD here? The local MB dealer charges $99 for 4 wheel alignments. I've never paid a dime more.
I prefer optimal performance, which means if 3 tires read 35psi and one reads 34.5, I take the time to correct it.
"Spec" doesnt mean the car is in optimal alignment. And no, I don't go pothole diving. Maybe my *** is just more sensitive than some.
I prefer optimal performance, which means if 3 tires read 35psi and one reads 34.5, I take the time to correct it.
"Spec" doesnt mean the car is in optimal alignment. And no, I don't go pothole diving. Maybe my *** is just more sensitive than some.
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2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
I don't go pot-hole hunting, but try to drive in Philly during the winter when you have dirty water all over the roads, and at night the potholes are hidden by a wealth of black water puddles.
Originally Posted by will
My god, are we talking USD here? The local MB dealer charges $99 for 4 wheel alignments
Note I only get an alignment when I know it needs it. And often I do my own, with plumb-bobs for camber, and strings for toe. Most people who race cars get to know these methods.
It would help to know a bit more about your situation:
______________ *** All Members, New and some Old *** _______________
please click on User CP at the top left of page, just below the thread title. Then add the following to either Profile and/or Signature , selecting buttons on the left side of that page:
year, model, if it's a diesel, Sport or Lux, 4MATIC or RWD, Location (city & state), and non-US country if applicable.
This helps others respond to issues, like tires, spring options, part sales, etc. Thanx
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Last edited by kevink2; 06-04-2012 at 11:38 AM.