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C250 - Accelerated and car suddenly lost power

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Old 06-15-2015, 04:19 PM
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C250 - Accelerated and car suddenly lost power

 
Old 12-06-2016, 07:04 PM
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Try this instead

Park, shut off completely take key out wait at least 5 minutes
Wait inside or out doesn't matter
Works for me- it's definitely ecu+ turbo lag folks
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Old 12-11-2016, 03:39 AM
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Not to necro but just had this happen today on mine 60 miles from the lot I bought it today...

Going in Monday for warranty...
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Old 02-01-2017, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by gtu View Post
Hey guys,
I have exactly the same issue with the car. Did you figure out any solution? The car has been to the dealership 3 times already but the issue keeps coming back. They changed the fuel pump, updated the software and few other things but nothing worked so far. It just keeps reoccurring after a few days of driving it.
Hi, I have the same issue and I took my car to MB dealership and they told me that I need to change my fuel pump. After they changed the fuel pump of about 500 miles, I got the check engine light on and when I took it again they said it was just a misfire of cylinder 1. At first, it started with misfire and later on it went to fuel pump regulator. The guy at the MB dealership told me that it may be the intercooler because he said they changed the part number for the intercooler and they changed how it works. I don't know what's gonna happen in the future but please guys if this problem was resolved in your car tell us how? thanks
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:18 AM
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I had this issue the other day. I was on a long road trip. Had put in 4 hours in the morning at pretty high speed. Then 4 hour break then another 4 hours and at about hour 3 on the second leg, we had just filled up with gas, and going on the freeway on ramp with a up hill grade, I went to accelerate and the engine stuttered and shook the whole car and engine light came on. i was able to feather up to 70mph. then any more acceleration and it would stutter. i stopped. it stuttered at idle. Turned car off, turned back on. light went out ran normal until we got to our destination.

I hooked up my code reader and got p0304. cylinder 4 misfire. Taking to dealer in AM tomorrow. I have a oil leak somewhere around turbo as well. not sure if related. 25k miles on the clock 2014 c250.
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Old 03-21-2017, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by wdurst75 View Post
Ive experienced this similar issue as well. ....
....
Planning on taking it in to at least talk with MB about it,but it seems from everyone's posts here they know about it but don't really care. Which really sucks.

My answer: You are right! Nobody cares and vehicle drivers are not asking for respect from the government or manufacturers. The ECU is illegal and I am sure it is installed in a way that is subject to criminal action. No vehicle maker can take the decision to remove power to the vehicle without the permission of the driver or owner of the vehicle. To be legal the ECU needs to be installed with a device available to the driver, a sort of huge switch, that can remove the control immediately from the ECU and pass it on to the driver. I am talking of a huge bypass. This device was never introduced because the industry wants to give full control to the computer and they mostly need it to stop thefts. If they introduce such a device any thieve can steal a car easily. However it is none of the business of the vehicle maker to be worry about a theft because it is the only responsability of the car owner. If the car owner installs an anti-theft system and the car owner does cause a power loss issue then the car owner cannot bring anyone to court. If the vehicle maker does it....than it is a totally different story. They need to recall all of the vehicles that have such problems and they could end up paying expenses for psychological damage to the vehicle owners or any damage that did occur as a result of sudden power loss due to the ECU malfunction.

Last edited by RobertDelPopolo; 03-21-2017 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 03-22-2017, 02:25 PM
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my car is still at dealer going on second day. They only give loaners to customers who purchased a car from their dealership.

this was for a misfire in cylinder 4 and a passenger engine oil leak on my 2014 c250.

They said they changed coil packs and determined coil packs are fine. i suggested a possible spark plug malfunction. if its not that its gotta be something with that cylinder. maybe injector? maybe a leak at a gasket? seems odd for such low mileage.


I'm stuck driving my old W202 which luckily i havent sold yet.
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Old 03-26-2017, 08:14 PM
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I visited the dealer three times for the same issue on my 2013 C250, loss of power when accelerating, always when driving on long trips to Florida. New software, plugs and coil packs didn't solve the problem.

They produced a service bulletin which basically said if software, plugs and coil packs don't resolve the issue, replace the inter cooler with a revised part. It seems the original turbo inter cooler was prone to collecting excess moisture on long trips, especially in humid southern states. I was just out of warranty but they did they repair no charge as it was well documented when under warranty.

I head to Florida next week, we will see if the issue is finally resolved.

Last edited by loudbmw; 03-26-2017 at 08:17 PM.
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:24 PM
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I'm getting the P0002 code (from Torque) on hard acceleration again.

The first time it happened the dealer updated the ECU. Then it happened again back last January. When I took the car in they said it wasn't reproducible and was probably a spurious code. Now it's 4 months out of warranty and getting a bit more reproducible.

When it first hit the car's power drops and the shift points go really high. It won't shift until 4K RPM. Then a key cycle it starts driving normal and the CEL eventually goes out.

My gas tank is full today and it just did it again.
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Old 06-19-2017, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by michail71 View Post
I'm getting the P0002 code (from Torque) on hard acceleration again.

The first time it happened the dealer updated the ECU. Then it happened again back last January. When I took the car in they said it wasn't reproducible and was probably a spurious code. Now it's 4 months out of warranty and getting a bit more reproducible.

When it first hit the car's power drops and the shift points go really high. It won't shift until 4K RPM. Then a key cycle it starts driving normal and the CEL eventually goes out.

My gas tank is full today and it just did it again.
Take it back to the dealer since they fixed this to begin with.
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Old 06-19-2017, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by michail71 View Post
Now it's 4 months out of warranty and getting a bit more reproducible.
Since you had this problem addressed during the warranty period and they did not fix the problem, they should cover it again. Try to see if you can replicate it consistently before taking it in...like is it when there is a full tank of gas, or when you apply full throttle, or when the car shifts beteeen certain gears?
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:37 PM
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Seeing more and more high pressure fuel pump issues, normally they set codes but i've had them act up with no codes as well. Needs to be tested harshly, the normal fuel pump tests at idle in the workshop don't subject it to the load needed to make it act up.
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Old 06-23-2017, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1 View Post
Seeing more and more high pressure fuel pump issues, normally they set codes but i've had them act up with no codes as well. Needs to be tested harshly, the normal fuel pump tests at idle in the workshop don't subject it to the load needed to make it act up.
I just had the same issue car wouldn't accelerate pass 50 mph and would hit 4 rpm. Took it to the dealer today and the high pressure fuel pump was damaged. They tested the vehicle and now is working.
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Barbie Delgado View Post
I just had the same issue car wouldn't accelerate pass 50 mph and would hit 4 rpm. Took it to the dealer today and the high pressure fuel pump was damaged. They tested the vehicle and now is working.
Glad you got it fixed. I changed one yesterday on a C250.
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Old 06-24-2017, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by meazz1 View Post
Take it back to the dealer since they fixed this to begin with.
I've had so many encounters with dealerships now I'd almost rather shoot myself in the foot. I'm contemplating trading for an X5 or X3.

I put 6,000 miles on loaner vehicles in less than 2 years while my car was under warranty.

I'll get it in and see what they say.
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:32 PM
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This happened to me 2 days ago - thankfully I was already off the freeway. I heard a knock sound coming from my trunk and thought it was just something in my trunk moving. The car lost power and would not accelerate. The light came on and I headed to the dealer who was thankfully nearby. I heard the engine trying to work hard but I was only doing about 20mph even when I tried to floor it. They replaced the quantity control valve and I was back in business.
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by CAgirl View Post
This happened to me 2 days ago - thankfully I was already off the freeway. I heard a knock sound coming from my trunk and thought it was just something in my trunk moving. The car lost power and would not accelerate. The light came on and I headed to the dealer who was thankfully nearby. I heard the engine trying to work hard but I was only doing about 20mph even when I tried to floor it. They replaced the quantity control valve and I was back in business.
Welcome to the forum
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:41 PM
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Hola! Thank you! I'll probably be leaving the MB family soon My warranty ends in Dec and I will get a different car. I can't risk this again since I commute between OC and LA. Never had this happen in my 911.
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by meazz1 View Post
Take it back to the dealer since they fixed this to begin with.
They said they would fix it under warranty if it was the same issue I had it in several other times for. They are even giving a loaner and no charge for diagnosis either way.

At least it can be reproduced now. It did it today merging on to the highway when I had it floored.
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Colin G View Post
Fuel filter caused the problem?


Changing the filter seems rather easy on a W204 C class. Remove back seat and go for it.


Here is a nice fuel filter replacement DIY:


http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

For the heck of it, I called the MB dealer and asked price on a fuel filter for a W204. Listed at around $650 CAD and the fella said he could do it for about $475. Crazy.
Interesting, if the dealer says it's this and won't cover it I may tackle the job or use an indie as I no longer have a place to work on the car. For all the seat removal it seems about in that price range. It's easy but time consuming work. I've seen shops charging 300-400 USD for replacing spark plugs.
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:44 PM
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The seat just pops up, no big deal there. You just need to lift out the bottom cushion of the rear seat, then unbolt the cover over the pump, then unscrew the big plastic locking ring that holds the pump in.
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1 View Post
The seat just pops up, no big deal there. You just need to lift out the bottom cushion of the rear seat, then unbolt the cover over the pump, then unscrew the big plastic locking ring that holds the pump in.
Is removing the front seats necessary? That seemed like it was most of the work.
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:07 PM
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Not at all. Just the lower cushion of the rear seat.
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1 View Post
Not at all. Just the lower cushion of the rear seat.
Thanks for the info. Hopefully I won't need to do the job if the factory cover's it under the warranty.

With warranty work they seem to just like replacing stuff until the problem goes away.

I'm thinking of trading the car in for an X5. But either way I wouldn't want to pass the issue along to the next owner if I do sell or trade.
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Old 07-10-2017, 08:51 PM
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Got the news today it's a failing HPFP, which is what I was expecting.

Tomorrow the dealer will check with the manufacturer to see if they'll cover it since I had symptoms reported back under warranty.

I'm not sure what the factory will do. I've probably exceeded the car's original value in warranty repairs to date, lol. This car is harder to keep in service than the space shuttle was.
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Old 07-10-2017, 09:38 PM
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Well, if the factory doesn't cover I will DIY. The part can be had for a few hundred and the hardest part seems to be the rear seat removal.

I've worked on Audi HPFPs before on FSIs but they are smack on top of the engine.
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