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I just had the same issue car wouldn't accelerate pass 50 mph and would hit 4 rpm. Took it to the dealer today and the high pressure fuel pump was damaged. They tested the vehicle and now is working.
Yes, they test and now it works. Once warranty runs out ....
How hard is the job? I've done it many times on an Audi FSI platform.
Hardest part is getting the crimp clamp off the feed line. The pump is held on by just a couple bolts, I do it without taking the intake manifold off, some people move the manifold for access but I never have. Warranty time pays about 2.5 hours, it's not "easy" but it's not bad at all. The pump is expensive though.
You do need to turn the engine over to align the cam so the new pump goes in smooth, it's driven off the end of the cam with a square drive on that engine, I think you turn the crank to the 57 degree marking but I can look it up.
Hardest part is getting the crimp clamp off the feed line. The pump is held on by just a couple bolts, I do it without taking the intake manifold off, some people move the manifold for access but I never have. Warranty time pays about 2.5 hours, it's not "easy" but it's not bad at all. The pump is expensive though.
You do need to turn the engine over to align the cam so the new pump goes in smooth, it's driven off the end of the cam with a square drive on that engine, I think you turn the crank to the 57 degree marking but I can look it up.
Early on my cam adjusters failed. Could that have damaged the HPFP? I don't remember if I had fueling issues before the cam adjuster failure.
The dealership got back. The factory offered to cover the high pressure fuel pump and labor for a 50/50 split. So that puts the bill around $900-$1000. It sucks that I reported the issue 4 times under warranty but they couldn't reproduce the issue. Although it was logged in the ECU memory. I guess that isn't good enough?
I might be able to do it lower cost but unless I go it used it wouldn't save much and I'd have to go through all the hassle.
What has me worried is this won't actually fix the problem. I've seen that reported many times on the Internet.
People like to put their car's mods on their sig. I should put all the repairs my car has needed, lol.
Just did another one of these yesterday, 2013 SLK. Complaint was CEL/limp mode when using sport mode, found a fault p000277 logged in the M/E for the quantity control valve unable to reach commanded position, meaning the pump isn't giving out what it's supposed to when the engine asks for a large amount of fuel. This is why they fail, why they lose power, and why it resets after you cycle the key.
New pump fixed it right up, unfortunately for the customer the car was almost 5 years old, despite having only 35k miles, and was out of warranty. Bill as you said was nearly 2k.
I've done plenty of them, but I got this one done in record time, although there's more room in an SLK than a 204. Took me about 27 min from start to finish.
Just did another one of these yesterday, 2013 SLK. Complaint was CEL/limp mode when using sport mode, found a fault p000277 logged in the M/E for the quantity control valve unable to reach commanded position, meaning the pump isn't giving out what it's supposed to when the engine asks for a large amount of fuel. This is why they fail, why they lose power, and why it resets after you cycle the key.
New pump fixed it right up, unfortunately for the customer the car was almost 5 years old, despite having only 35k miles, and was out of warranty. Bill as you said was nearly 2k.
I've done plenty of them, but I got this one done in record time, although there's more room in an SLK than a 204. Took me about 27 min from start to finish.
Do you work at a dealership or are you independent?
Odd, MSRP is $775 on the pump. So I'm not sure how the final bill climbs to nearly $2K. The 50% off I'm getting sound more like a reasonable full price. Does that mean the labor coast is $1200?
They did say the job took 4 to 5 hours but I could change out the one in my Audi in 30 minutes.
Hi
I recently had a similar problem when accelerating hard at different speeds. The car would hesitate, as if misfiring. I took in to the local Mercedes Dealership and they put it on their Star Tester. No faults were found. After a couple of weeks the problem was getting stressful so I called out the RAC. The mechanic daignosed the problem almost immediately. The coil on number 1 cylinder, which is adjacent to the oil filler hole, had split on both sides due to oil being spilt at some time and had seeped onto the coil. I managed to get a new coil for around Ł50 sterling and fitted myself last week. The problem has gone away. Incidentally, the car is a C250 W204 2010 Model.
Last edited by oyster33; 07-22-2017 at 05:50 PM.
Reason: Missed model off
Most issues with oil on the #1 coil are caused by sloppy oil changes, although valve cover seals can leak. If you have a leak, fix it before it damages another coil.
Most issues with oil on the #1 coil are caused by sloppy oil changes, although valve cover seals can leak. If you have a leak, fix it before it damages another coil.
You are right. The rubber collar around the oil filler hole was not seated correctly on the neck and had twisted, causing oil to get on to the coil over a period of time. I have ordered another collar from the Dealership.
My C250 stopped a few times while waiting at a traffic light
I had similar issue. My 2012 C250 suddenly stopped while waiting at the traffic light. This happened a couple of time and when I took it to a mechanic, he told me that it could be because of the oxygen sensor shutting off and asked me to avoid using "cheap" gas such as at Costco (I did use Costco premium gas a few times). Since, then I stopped using Costco gas and the car was fine. Recently, I had to fill Costco premium gas due to premium gas shortage at most gas stations and the car stopped again while waiting at a traffic light. Had anyone experienced this kind of situation? Is it a coincidence or is my mechanic's statement true that it happens with Costco gas?
Sounds like a guess by the mechanic, but you could be getting water in your fuel at that particular costco if you continually have issues. Avoid that station and see if the issues persist. If they do, have the car diagnosed properly. There's no "oxygen sensor shutting off", that's just a guy who shouldn't be working on your car trying to guess at the problem.
I had similar issue. My 2012 C250 suddenly stopped while waiting at the traffic light. This happened a couple of time and when I took it to a mechanic, he told me that it could be because of the oxygen sensor shutting off and asked me to avoid using "cheap" gas such as at Costco (I did use Costco premium gas a few times). Since, then I stopped using Costco gas and the car was fine. Recently, I had to fill Costco premium gas due to premium gas shortage at most gas stations and the car stopped again while waiting at a traffic light. Had anyone experienced this kind of situation? Is it a coincidence or is my mechanic's statement true that it happens with Costco gas?
Thanks
Kan
In general Costco gas should be good. It's a Top Tier listed fuel. Although that rating is about detergents. It could just be related to that individual station.
Any sensor issue would just cause a CEL, not cause the car to shut off.
Actual problem is unclear p0002 and limp mode resolution
The original thread on this pertain to code P0002 and limp mode on hard acceleration. For those that are having misfire issues, this is unrelated. When researching this there is no clear solution to the original problem. Indications include high pressure fuel pump on the back of the engine, low pressure fuel pump in the tank, or the fuel filter in the tank. It seems the only thread that has described an actual solution has indicated it's the fuel filter. Unfortunately, I have not found a way to confirm this.
The fuel filter seems to make the most sense since I've been dealing with this for about ten thousand miles on my 2014 C250. I have used various fuel system cleaners and been driving in S Mode which seems to keep the problem at bay. If it were a failing hpfp or lpfp, it seems they would have failed or at least gotten worse by this point in time. So I'm going to try replacing the fuel filter.
The original thread on this pertain to code P0002 and limp mode on hard acceleration. For those that are having misfire issues, this is unrelated. When researching this there is no clear solution to the original problem. Indications include high pressure fuel pump on the back of the engine, low pressure fuel pump in the tank, or the fuel filter in the tank. It seems the only thread that has described an actual solution has indicated it's the fuel filter. Unfortunately, I have not found a way to confirm this.
The fuel filter seems to make the most sense since I've been dealing with this for about ten thousand miles on my 2014 C250. I have used various fuel system cleaners and been driving in S Mode which seems to keep the problem at bay. If it were a failing hpfp or lpfp, it seems they would have failed or at least gotten worse by this point in time. So I'm going to try replacing the fuel filter.
Same problem earlier Limp mode then check engine light
earlier today lined up w a challenger RT who kept messing w me trying to race pretty much and finally I said fine and we went at the light I got em btw for the first 60mph then I noticed my car lost power felt like it was gonna stall out, I then pulled over turned off the car and restarted it and the problem was fixed light came off, after having this happen for the 3rd time I looked into it and I guess you have to either update your software or reset your gear box, since the last owner was quite old I figured that may have been the issue so I reset it which was easy I looked it up, I then drove it around for an hour and re trained the gears to my preference in a “heavier foot” manner if were being honest and floored it again and seems to have fixed the problem! With that being said I definitely am gonna baby my c250 for now on it was a scary situation
I've been driving my car around for a year with an intermittent p0002 code. As discussed the car would go into limp mode, shut it off restart it then it runs. I also have utilized S Mode continuously to minimize the issue. I recently got p0303 code indicating a misfire on the 3rd cylinder. I went ahead and replaced all four spark plugs and checked the ignition coils and found that the 3rd cylinder ignition coil was corroded as well as the spark plug. I replaced the 3rd cylinder ignition coil and it seems to have resolved both issues. The car runs like new. I can hit the accelerator and not risk going into limp mode. The spark plugs are easily accessed and this repair can be completed by most anyone. There are videos on YouTube with this specific model. I am including photos of the corroded ignition coil and spark plug. Corroded spark plug cylinder 3 next to other replaced plug
That's water intrusion. Anybody ever wash the engine down with a hose? Do you have the engine cover on there properly? That shouldn't be happening, and yes it can cause issues under load as the coils have to work harder against the denser charge air.
06-15-2015, 04:19 PM
Misfire on acceleration
