roei

Hello I want to replace the N30/4 ESP UNIT part with a new one but I gets complicated with how to release the connector please Does anyone have guide?

Plutoe

Post your VIN!!

roei

OK MY VIN IS WDDGFO 7X48A139379 THNKS
Can you tell me which part I need exactly from my vin number ?

vin decoder http://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/check-...GFO7X48A139379

Plutoe

Shulem,


Once the connector is removed then you have the two screws---volia 172

roei

Thank you very much, good news cleaned the unit and its connection, and closed everything tight and now everything works without a esp/abs error,

With amazing app - Carly for mercedes http://www.mycarly.com/product/mercedes-app/ , i made Great diagnostic for the problem, and deleted after i fix it all the error code Disappeared,

Thanks for the help saved me a lot of money

PetarJ

Did you had a "ESP" fault message ? Could you please share more info what have you done . Thank you !

OKinChi

I am assuming that you already have sorted out your issues, or just paid MB to fix them.
Since I could not find anything that would guide me through the issue, here is what i went through, hoping that it will help someone.

In January 2016 I got the warning:
"BRAKE, EBR, ABS, and ESP Inoperative"

Car: 2008 MB C300 Sport 4Matic with 78000 Miles (W204, engine M272)

What I did:
1) Googling / Youtube
- Found many people with similar issues, but no answers, except for some "yeah had the same issue went to MB...", blah, blah.
- My own cheap OBDII can't show any code like ABS, etc. I guess, it does only engine related codes.

- For the first time looked at the diagram of the ESP functionality, and realized, this might be a complex issue to sort it out.

- Found some hints, from battery law voltage, to ABS sensors, SAM units issues, break light switch (in earlier models),
video about replacing "ESP sensor" - the yaw sensor under the driver seat.

- Called MB to hear the typical - "need to hook up to the STAR diagnostic - $180 for diagnosis, which we waive, if you repair wit us , we waive this..." However - 1 hr labor ~ $180 - so, no, not for me - out of principal.
- Friendly local MB repair store hooked it up and gave me the first hint, error msg stored in ESP:

"C1001 (5001) There is an internal fault in control unit 'N30/4 (Electronic Stability Program control unit)'

Their diagnosis - the ESP control unit must be replaced with a new one, looking roughly at $1800.
- Called again MB - ESP control module $1025, labor ~350.
- Looked up on Ebay - plenty of whole ABS pumps units, and many ESP control units, all from $70 to some $800

- Suddenly, unexpectedly a frine offers his AutoLogic unit for diagnosis... Found the same error:
"C1001 (5001) There is an internal fault in control unit 'N30/4 (Electronic Stability Program control unit)'
Could also confirm, that each ABS sensor sends some data - I could not tell if it is good data or not, but at least all of them worked. The same with yaw sensor and steering angle sensor, the were at least working.
- At this point, I started to focus on the N30/4 unit and started to look for it. Before i buy it from the MB dealer for $1025, I thought I will buy one on Ebay and try it out. Yes, I can loose the money spent on it, but it was worth for me.
I could not find on the Internet any further info about what to do, despite of looking on English, German, Polish sites.
I was afraid, that even if I can exchange the unit, I might get into some new - programming issues...

- EBay sowed several control units - the black plastic box screwed on to the hydraulic block of the ABS pump unit. Some of the in new condition - at least per seller - between $200- $300. Good news I thought - if people are selling them, then it looks like they can be used in used condition as well - not only new as the friendly shop told me before.
I was lucky to get the whole ABS unit, the motor, hydraulic block and the control unit from a 2008 C300 - basically the same car as mine, for just $90 !! The part number was the same, the unit came there after 3 days.
- Unscrewed the CTRL unit, went down to the garage. I expected to have issues to unscrew the unit from my car - there is not much space available. I quickly discovered that in fact it was not an issue at all, in max 10min I was able to unscrew the unit, easily disconnect the cables (very fancy jack, with a fancy German release mechanism)... and actually do the reverse with the "NEW" unit.
- Hooked up the AutoLogic unit again (with power supply) and started the car.
- The computer was showing plenty of error messages, many related to the fact that the unit was disconnected, several to a wrong VIN. I went through many menus looking through eh messages. First thing what I tried to do was to override the VIN # of the 'new' ESP control unit - that was showing the VIN from the car it came from - to the VIN of my car.
Finally - I think with the engine running, I have successfully edited the VIN # on the ESP unit. I then erased all other warnings stored on all units, switched of the AutoLogic computer and the car.
- Started the car again - No warnings - drove the car.. no warnings, drove the care now few blocks ... - not warnings popped up,. no engine light.... - damn!


- Researching the subject, I found some info referring to calibration of the ABS / ESP after some repairs, but I could not find any info as to when this has to be done and - really - what for. So the question was still there - do i need to do the calibration? There were some more options on the AutoLogic computer - like after reinistallation of the ESP or the whole ABS unit, to initialize those components... But no info if I have to do this with a 're-used' part...
So ... do I need t do it? Do I need to re-calibrate the ABS now - or not?

Did the car just stopped complaining... but the ABS and ESP does not really work? - Or is now indeed everything OK...

- I still do not know the answers to the questions above - despite of a lot of Googling. Friendly mechanic told me that if the control unit had the same P/N, same make, same car - I do not need to re-calibrate.
- Tested the ABS - it is easy - and no issues, it works. ESP... is a different animal, can't really easily test it.
So... still researching.
Please help if you are familiar with the ESP calibration or have other info.
Hope this contribution will help someone.

Nicholi2007

Do you need the exact part number? I have a 2009 and found one off a 2008 with the "newer part number" that matches what is on parts.com. I've read older models 2012 are locked out unless you have access to the network.

Suresh Kumar

Facing the same issues::: same error codes
:::error faults go off after I run the roller test:::: unable to pin down the problem

Carl Fernandes

Hi Pluto

Sorry to resurrect an old thread.

Would appreciate your guide mentioned in thread above

Thanks

jeppe

Did you manage to find out if this worked?

Mbbouy

hi please help!
could you tell me how you change the vin error?
mb said unit cannot be reprogrammed?
After taking on there to be reprogrammed
thank you

Russell Ormerod

Shows you how little your mechanic knows. Do you think mercedes puts calibration menus in there for fun! Same car same part number same colour means nothing! Your esp and hydraulic unit are now mismatched. Use some logic and think for yourself what should be done

justpow

This may help someone else, I recently did rear brake lines on a c250 cdn model, while doing the job I had the left rear abs sensor disconnected, after the brake bleed, etc, etc the light was on with the c5001 code
Bled it again after test drive and so far is ok
I can’t quite call this a fix but might prove useful to someone in the future

Sy Humphrey

I had the same N30/4 fault and lack of power steering once driving about 30kph.... Turned out it was because I covered the rain/light sensor on the dash. Not even kidding, took the bit of paper I accidently had covered it with and fixed.

aviv 2006

which unit did you cleaned? the unit is build with the black [electronic one] and the pump itself.