I got a new Motive Fluid Extractor - did my first oil change with it today. Wow - so clean and easy, versus getting car on ramps/stands, crawling under, removing splash guard, drain plug etc. etc. I was always skeptical that this would not be as good as the old fashioned way - but apparently the dealers do this - and I would't go back under any of my cars again to do this.....

1. Make sure car is level and run engine to warm oil (I waited until water temp gauge was 60C, but next time would go to 80C because oil was still not flowing that easily).

2. Open hood, I put motive extractor on passenger side of car - on ground (cardboard underneath just in case). Pump extractor to -20Hg and insert pipe into dipstick tube. Oil starts flowing into container - I needed to pump a few times and total time to drain oil was probably over 20 mins (might have been faster if oil was hotter). I was worried that this would not be as good as draining from below - but I got all 8.5Qt out - no problem.

3. While oil drains, remove front engine cover (lift up out out) - open filter cap, remove filter (into shop towel or something to catch drips). I got "private label" filter from Rock Auto for $2 - turned out to be Mobil1 filter ! Installed, new o-rings from filter packet, lubricated, put new filter back in housing, torqued to 25Nm. (by the way - the smallest o-ring is for the dipstick tube - not sure how many shop techs take the time to change that one ?).

4. Still had time to check tire pressures, inspect brake pads/rotors, coolant level, washer fluid, brake fluid, PS fluid, battery voltage while oil kept draining.

5. At end of drain, refill with 8.5Qt of Mobil 1 0w40 (Walmart 5Qt jugs are ~$26) - or your favorite MB approved dino juice. (fill 8 QT or so, start engine, check level again, fill last 0.5Qt as needed).

6. Reset service indicator by holding down phone button on steering wheel and press and hold "OK" - then follow menus. Test drive, check for leaks. DONE.

I would be grateful if you could check whether that $2 oil filter is up to the MB standard .

I understand that your gas engines require a fleece type. Some kind person may be able to verify.

Also make sure the engine oil is to MB specifications ie 229.5.

My power steering fluid was a little dirty looking the last time I serviced my car. I siphoned out & refilled the reservoir 5 times ( 1 litre) which cleaned it up. Might be a good idea to check it.

Thanks for the write up.

I picked up a filter at the dealership but it was $25. A bit steep but Amazon is probably a better choice.

I got the OEM one for $10 off eBay.

Mobil1 0w40 is the mercedes recommended oil. I'm not sure if there is a standard for filters, but the mobil1 filters are generally the most expensive and highest quality ones for most cars - it was so cheap because it was a closeout special. I would normally get the mann filter from rockauto which is the oem supplier.

Yes the oil is the same that Mercedes use. There is definitely a standard as far as filters go, so I would be careful with a $2 filter. I guess the most important part about it is that it is a Fleece filter, otherwise you will not get 10000 miles and if you try, it could damage your engine/fill it with paper pieces.

Any danger in the drain plug becoming frozen? I know this can happen if a car doesn't have an oil change in a long while.

Well - hopefully I never have to use the drain plug again ! Mobil 1 says their filters use synthetic media and are good for 15,000 miles. I would never run the oil that long - typically I change before 10K ....(oil came out pretty black at 9K this time).

Good work.

When folks find this via search, we should add that
RWD = 8.5 qts
while
4Matic = 7.5 qts

Over here in Cali, dealer discounts the filter for me and it comes out to be around $17. Aftermarket prices are more expensive, for example the WiX brand is approx $22 here. So, genuine filter for me it is!

I also change my oil via extractor, but ever once in awhile I do it by the drain plug. Just because the dealer sucks the oil out, doesn't mean it is the best practice. Keep in mind, the dealer does not always have the best in mind for you. It's always what benefits them first. This is quick and easy for them.
Think transmission service and the shortcuts they take, avoiding the torque converter drain, etc.

Anyways, from experience, you should at least drain it from the drain plug every other oil change. Perhaps do it for the service B rotation. Why? When I drained it onto a pan, I noticed debris from the drain plug, debris that would most certainly be missed by a suction method via vacuum pump. I use a MityVac Fluid Extractor for my oil changes.

The way I drain from the plug is: Jack the car up, drain, lower the car down on all four wheels, let some more drain, til every last drop. Then I pour a half quart of new oil into the filter housing and the top of engine. Then let drain some more, til every last drop. After that, raise car, plug back on, re-fill with fresh oil and filter. Very thorough.

I like jacking up or ramping the car & taking off the covers because I can then check all items from under the car, steering boots, hose or other leaks , radiator condition , gearbox seals, power steering seals, brake hose condition etc. Once ever 12 months is not a big deal.

I agree. When you are under there, you can do a visual inspection on vital components, check for leaks and everything.

Once every 12 months, you are lucky! I change mine at least twice a year... I am averaging 25k miles/year. Too much

You can't go wrong with increased oil change intervals. You will never see your pistons , rings or bottom ends.

Now we live in town I am lucky to do 5000 km/ year . I filled up with diesel once in 3 months for a period last year!!