Relay for secondary air pump
#26
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by superangrypenguin
LOL - that'd be quite a Youtube video!
Totally get that a car would show codes - it's designed that way. That said, the SAP (love that acronym) should turn off after reaching a certain temperature and/or 90 seconds has elapsed. I don't know why your gas mileage would be worse or the car would run rich because the pump is turned off.
If one can live with codes, I'm fairly certain there is no harm to the vehicle if the SAP is disabled.
Totally get that a car would show codes - it's designed that way. That said, the SAP (love that acronym) should turn off after reaching a certain temperature and/or 90 seconds has elapsed. I don't know why your gas mileage would be worse or the car would run rich because the pump is turned off.
If one can live with codes, I'm fairly certain there is no harm to the vehicle if the SAP is disabled.
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superangrypenguin (03-11-2018)
#27
MBWorld Fanatic!
So I think I found the problem but it's $600 I was given the wrong part, the dealer is the only place to get the left and right valves. I'm debating on taking them off and cleaning them or buying new.
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
so I took off the valves and ran a little carb cleaner through them and WD40 they look like new now. I opted to make my own seals in stead of reuse the old ones. Yes I know seas are 3$ but I had the stuff to do it myself.
I should of snapped a picture. This job is a pain the the *** let me tell u took 4 hours with an oil change and cabin air filter change. I hope I saved myself 600$ so far on the first cold start I hear no noise.
Regardless I saved about $2500 doing this job myself LOL
I should of snapped a picture. This job is a pain the the *** let me tell u took 4 hours with an oil change and cabin air filter change. I hope I saved myself 600$ so far on the first cold start I hear no noise.
Regardless I saved about $2500 doing this job myself LOL
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superangrypenguin (03-12-2018)
#30
MBWorld Fanatic!
So My OCD kicked in... I went back and went with my uncle to my neighbours shop, look how the ****ing German designed this crappy valve. it looks like a muffin paper is the seal.
i couldn't pull my phone out to take after pictures because My hands were filthy but the part looks like new. Look how much carbon build up inside, theres nothing we can do about it... we should all have some build up but this is quite a bit.
I ripped out the muffin paper seal and took a rubber seal glued it to the valve and cut it to size, everything works. I guess time will tell if it holds up.
This part at the deal is $400 a new rubber seal made by me was free thanks to my neighbour but really if I had to buy it $3.
In total I have saved $2500 on labour and parts doing this myself.
i couldn't pull my phone out to take after pictures because My hands were filthy but the part looks like new. Look how much carbon build up inside, theres nothing we can do about it... we should all have some build up but this is quite a bit.
I ripped out the muffin paper seal and took a rubber seal glued it to the valve and cut it to size, everything works. I guess time will tell if it holds up.
This part at the deal is $400 a new rubber seal made by me was free thanks to my neighbour but really if I had to buy it $3.
In total I have saved $2500 on labour and parts doing this myself.
#31
Senior Member
So I'm still researching my auxiliary air pump issue as I have a 2007 SL55 AMG it appears that my location of the pump, fuse and relay are different from most other cars.
If have not found the fuse or relay as yet the pump checked out OK (if I need to take it out I have to remove the front bumper cover.
See post > http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230...30-option.html
The question I have now after reading your post is it the gummed up valves and were are they on my AMG set up.
Thanks for posting the pictures
If have not found the fuse or relay as yet the pump checked out OK (if I need to take it out I have to remove the front bumper cover.
See post > http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230...30-option.html
The question I have now after reading your post is it the gummed up valves and were are they on my AMG set up.
Thanks for posting the pictures
Last edited by Hendrik Koster; 03-30-2018 at 08:56 AM.
#32
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by Hendrik Koster
So I'm still researching my auxiliary air pump issue as I have a 2007 SL55 AMG it appears that my location of the pump, fuse and relay are different from most other cars if have not found the fuse or relay as yet the pump checked out OK (if I need to take it out I have to remove the front bumper cover.
See post > http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230...30-option.html
The question I have now after reading your post is it the gummed up valves and were are they on my AMG set up.
Thanks for posting the pictures
See post > http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230...30-option.html
The question I have now after reading your post is it the gummed up valves and were are they on my AMG set up.
Thanks for posting the pictures
I'm not sure where the valves are on the AMG but try to go on pelican parts and see what the valves look like for your year AMG that may halo out.
Search for your pump and it should show you related parts to the project.
Let me know if that helps if not I'll try to help out Monday.
#33
Senior Member
Thank you for your quick reply I have located the valves they are right on top of the engine and easily accessible so to be clear did you solve the CE light coming on by cleaning out the valves correct?
As I had said in my other post I managed to test run the AApump while it was mounted in it's original location in front of the DS wheel under the front bumper cover by removing the connecting plug and applying 12 volts from an auxiliary source directly to the motor connecting pins
The 2 high amp fuses in my PS fuse box (one 50 Amp and one 40 Amp) are fine but I'm not sure yet if they are they the ones for the AAP I guess I can take an Ohm meter and do a continuity check when I pull the electrical connector from the AAP and measure between it and the fuse socket.
Perhaps I can than use the same method to see if any of the relays in the PS fuse box has continuity back to the one of these fuses.
Again to repeat myself if the fuse, relay and pump check out than can the cause be the valves that you posted about in this thread? When they are cleaned does the CE light go off.
Thanks for taking the time to reply and share your findings I appreciate it.
Best H
As I had said in my other post I managed to test run the AApump while it was mounted in it's original location in front of the DS wheel under the front bumper cover by removing the connecting plug and applying 12 volts from an auxiliary source directly to the motor connecting pins
The 2 high amp fuses in my PS fuse box (one 50 Amp and one 40 Amp) are fine but I'm not sure yet if they are they the ones for the AAP I guess I can take an Ohm meter and do a continuity check when I pull the electrical connector from the AAP and measure between it and the fuse socket.
Perhaps I can than use the same method to see if any of the relays in the PS fuse box has continuity back to the one of these fuses.
Again to repeat myself if the fuse, relay and pump check out than can the cause be the valves that you posted about in this thread? When they are cleaned does the CE light go off.
Thanks for taking the time to reply and share your findings I appreciate it.
Best H
Last edited by Hendrik Koster; 03-31-2018 at 07:04 AM.
#34
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by Hendrik Koster
Thank you for your quick reply I have located the valves they are right on top of the engine and easily accessible so to be clear did you solve the CE light coming on by cleaning out the valves correct?
As I had said in my other post I managed to test run the AApump while it was mounted in it's original location in front of the DS wheel under the front bumper cover by removing the connecting plug and applying 12 volts from an auxiliary source directly to the motor connecting pins
The 2 high amp fuses in my PS fuse box (one 50 Amp and one 40 Amp) are fine but I'm not sure yet if they are they the ones for the AAP I guess I can take an Ohm meter and do a continuity check when I pull the electrical connector from the AAP and measure between it and the fuse socket.
Perhaps I can than use the same method to see if any of the relays in the PS fuse box has continuity back to the one of these fuses.
Again to repeat myself if the fuse, relay and pump check out than can the cause be the valves that you posted about in this thread? When they are cleaned does the CE light go off.
Thanks for taking the time to reply and share your findings I appreciate it.
Best H
As I had said in my other post I managed to test run the AApump while it was mounted in it's original location in front of the DS wheel under the front bumper cover by removing the connecting plug and applying 12 volts from an auxiliary source directly to the motor connecting pins
The 2 high amp fuses in my PS fuse box (one 50 Amp and one 40 Amp) are fine but I'm not sure yet if they are they the ones for the AAP I guess I can take an Ohm meter and do a continuity check when I pull the electrical connector from the AAP and measure between it and the fuse socket.
Perhaps I can than use the same method to see if any of the relays in the PS fuse box has continuity back to the one of these fuses.
Again to repeat myself if the fuse, relay and pump check out than can the cause be the valves that you posted about in this thread? When they are cleaned does the CE light go off.
Thanks for taking the time to reply and share your findings I appreciate it.
Best H
I would go for the valves last as they cost the most. If everything checks out it's most likely the valves.
I say do them last because the fuse and relay are $25 or so and the switch over valve was $40 and the vacuum hoses were 20$. The system is all the parts we listed so the problem would then be fixed.
If you go the route I did make sure you have high heat glue and a few rubber seal making kits.
I had 2 codes when my pump failed, when I get on my computer I can locate them Monday. I need to locate my service bill since it was covered under warranty to see exactly what they changed on my car.
I have a few threads on my pump when it failed.if your in a rush search for them I'm sure I posed the codes.
I wish I could be more help but I'm away from my computer.
Can you post your codes if you haven't already and what is actually the issue with your pump? Is it making a very loud noise for 90 or so seconds when you turn on the car ?
Good luck it's defiantly an annoying issue
#35
Senior Member
Oh no... operator error perhaps?
Well after I wrote post #33 I went and searched my computer for fuse and relay charts that I had downloaded some time ago and after reviewing them I have come to the find that I may have created the problem as some time ago I had all the fuses out in the PS box in order to clean them and the 40amp fuse that according to the chart should be in location #32 was placed in location #31 by me which according to the chart is no-mans land! duh!!!
Anyway in about another hour I'll get to the car itself and will correct this and report back here!
So for those reading along at home it shows you that a simple oversight can easily make you believe some thing is wrong whereas there rely is not.
Hopefully this mistake may be a lesson for others in the future, check, check and check again.
Happy motoring
Anyway in about another hour I'll get to the car itself and will correct this and report back here!
So for those reading along at home it shows you that a simple oversight can easily make you believe some thing is wrong whereas there rely is not.
Hopefully this mistake may be a lesson for others in the future, check, check and check again.
Happy motoring
#36
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by Hendrik Koster
Well after I wrote post #33 I went and searched my computer for fuse and relay charts that I had downloaded some time ago and after reviewing them I have come to the find that I may have created the problem as some time ago I had all the fuses out in the PS box in order to clean them and the 40amp fuse that according to the chart should be in location #32 was placed in location #31 by me which according to the chart is no-mans land! duh!!!
Anyway in about another hour I'll get to the car itself and will correct this and report back here!
So for those reading along at home it shows you that a simple oversight can easily make you believe some thing is wrong whereas there rely is not.
Hopefully this mistake may be a lesson for others in the future, check, check and check again.
Happy motoring
Anyway in about another hour I'll get to the car itself and will correct this and report back here!
So for those reading along at home it shows you that a simple oversight can easily make you believe some thing is wrong whereas there rely is not.
Hopefully this mistake may be a lesson for others in the future, check, check and check again.
Happy motoring
#37
Senior Member
Well I have erased the error code and been out for a 50 + mile drive and no more CE light so I believe it was my mistake oh well thank for the inspiration to go after this after in the end I got it resolved.
Thanks
Thanks
#38
Senior Member
So my wife's 2011 C300 secondary air pump code came on. I replaced the pump but the one I removed had quite a bit of water in it. Of all the posts I have read I see nothing about there being water. Also after about 10 minutes of driving the code came back on. I will replace the fuse and the relay which can be culprits and go from there. Is the relay a dealer only part and has anyone seen water in the secondary pump in the past
#39
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by Atlas Grey
So my wife's 2011 C300 secondary air pump code came on. I replaced the pump but the one I removed had quite a bit of water in it. Of all the posts I have read I see nothing about there being water. Also after about 10 minutes of driving the code came back on. I will replace the fuse and the relay which can be culprits and go from there. Is the relay a dealer only part and has anyone seen water in the secondary pump in the past
#40
Senior Member
Relay...easy repair \ check-up
So my wife's 2011 C300 secondary air pump code came on. I replaced the pump but the one I removed had quite a bit of water in it. Of all the posts I have read I see nothing about there being water. Also after about 10 minutes of driving the code came back on. I will replace the fuse and the relay which can be culprits and go from there. Is the relay a dealer only part and has anyone seen water in the secondary pump in the past
As it is easy to pop -off the cover from the relay I make another visual inspection of the inside contact points in 6-8 weeks to see. (it wont take 10 minutes to this)
#41
Senior Member
Guys
Called Mercedes dealer and they told me they don't know which relay it is. They would be happy to have service look at it. Anyway here is my vin
WDDGF8BB3BR154443
Can someone tell which exactly which relay it is and where is it located as the incompetence of Mercedes is baffling
2011 C300 4Matic V6
Thanks a bunch
Called Mercedes dealer and they told me they don't know which relay it is. They would be happy to have service look at it. Anyway here is my vin
WDDGF8BB3BR154443
Can someone tell which exactly which relay it is and where is it located as the incompetence of Mercedes is baffling
2011 C300 4Matic V6
Thanks a bunch
#43
Senior Member
Found it and replaced them. All seems ok.
Of course the red battery light showed up yesterday. 😡
Of course the red battery light showed up yesterday. 😡
#44
Gents, i replaced my pump last year and fixed my code problem but it is back again. Quick question, where do you all buy these parts besides the dealer? like the seals for the valves, the switch, vaccum hoses, etc thank you!
#45
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by jstijerina
Gents, i replaced my pump last year and fixed my code problem but it is back again. Quick question, where do you all buy these parts besides the dealer? like the seals for the valves, the switch, vaccum hoses, etc thank you!
#47
Usinc a Carsoft CR Plus, I get two codes: Malfunction of secondary air injection at left bank of cylinders (function chain) (PO410) and a similar one that says "at right bank of cylinders".
1) I checked the pump (one year old and still under warranty) direct from the battery and it ran and sounded good.
2) On a cold start in the morning, the pump rand for about 30-40 seconds and then shutdown. (This tells me that the pump itself and all the fuses and relays are functioning) Is this correct? The auto parts store has a pump ready for me, but I don't want to take it as it seems that it is not the pump.
3) So, I suspect that I have some kind of pluggage in the various components (vaccum hoses or valves, etc.) I ordered the gaskets and vaccum hoses and am waiting on them.
4) Any idea on what to check first? (change over valve or left and right valves?
#49
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jstijerina (07-22-2020)
#50
SAP pump
did you check the left and right valves when you pulled the pump? I'm going to change my whole system because I'm on pump #2. if theres carbon build up in the 2 valves then that could cause an issue.
don't throw your old pump either you can open it up and clean out the carbon build up and it not make any noise.
don't throw your old pump either you can open it up and clean out the carbon build up and it not make any noise.