C-Class (W204) 2008 - 2014: C180K, C200K, C230, C280, C300, C350, C200CDI, C220CDI, C320CDI

ESL Steering lock motor replacement *lots of pics*

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Old 01-06-2019, 09:42 AM
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Thanks for sharing the detailed information on how to replace this motor. I got the following symptoms on my 2010 GLK yesterday:
-Key turns to ignition and on position, nothing happens
-3 sets of double clicks coming from the steering column area (sounds like a relay firing)
-Lock/Unlock features work
-Remove Key From Ignition displayed on screen
-Steering wheel can be rotated whether the key is inserted or not, does this mean the ESL failed in the unlock position?

I am suspecting the ESL motor failed, and in the unlock position fortunately. Ironically the motors are available for $24 on Amazon Prime. Hopefully it is a quick fix thanks to this thread!
Old 02-09-2019, 10:18 AM
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Would this be about the same for a w202? I can only find the motors for w204 :-) Thanks in advance
Old 02-10-2019, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Thomsson
Would this be about the same for a w202? I can only find the motors for w204 :-) Thanks in advance
No, its completely different. What is wrong with yours? w202 is much simpler to deal with
Old 02-11-2019, 11:25 PM
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For me, the steering won’t go up and down but it will go back and forward. Currently locked in up position
Old 02-14-2019, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by PatronasF1AMG
For me, the steering won’t go up and down but it will go back and forward. Currently locked in up position
This has absolutely nothing to do with the steering lock mentioned in this thread.
Old 02-14-2019, 06:51 AM
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Cbr944’s suggestion to replace the motor and leave the ESL uninstalled and easy to access seems an obvious better option over the cost and delay of the emulator route. Am I missing something that would suggest otherwise?
Old 03-09-2019, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by knowbenz
No, its completely different. What is wrong with yours? w202 is much simpler to deal with
One day the key just stopped working after i had been away for 10 minutes, cant unlock doors with the buttons and cant even unlock the steeringlock. I had my mercedes dealer look at it and they said it was the ignition lock, but it would cost the same to fix it that i bought the car for.

Its a 1998 manual if that helps.

Thanks in advance

Last edited by kaptenkrok; 03-09-2019 at 11:00 AM.
Old 03-10-2019, 02:20 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by kaptenkrok
One day the key just stopped working after i had been away for 10 minutes, cant unlock doors with the buttons and cant even unlock the steeringlock. I had my mercedes dealer look at it and they said it was the ignition lock, but it would cost the same to fix it that i bought the car for.

Its a 1998 manual if that helps.

Thanks in advance
The steering lock won't make the door locks stop working. If it is in fact the steering lock on that car you can buy a $25 emulator online and wire it in. Pop the cover off the ESL and run the lock out.
Old 03-10-2019, 05:40 PM
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Do you think its the key otherwise? Since the remote unlock and ignition lock/steering lock stopped working at the exact same time? (i only have one to test with)

Edit: the key does light up red when i press the buttons and sends signal (checked with camera)

Last edited by kaptenkrok; 03-10-2019 at 06:01 PM.
Old 03-11-2019, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by kaptenkrok
Do you think its the key otherwise? Since the remote unlock and ignition lock/steering lock stopped working at the exact same time? (i only have one to test with)

Edit: the key does light up red when i press the buttons and sends signal (checked with camera)
Could be, the inductive coils always fall off the circuit board in the key. You can slide it out and see if it's hanging on by a thread or loose
Old 03-26-2019, 06:42 AM
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Removing ESL

So I think my ESL is failing. Occasionally the car will just not start, the steering column adjusts itself but I don’t think the ESL is unlocking. After a while, and sometimes with wiggling the steering wheel, you will hear the high-pitched noise and it will start again. It then fails within a few weeks.

I think I would like to just replace the motor. I appreciate all the advice here, and the pictures are very helpful. I still have a couple questions, maybe someone can assist?

I plan on trying to change to motor in the ESL while the ESL is unlocked with the key in the ignition.

1. Is it possible to remove the ESL without pulling the entire steering column? ( i’ve seen references to this other places But no pics)

2. I’ve seen some vendors like Simon touch saying that changing the motor without “repairing the Nec motor position” Will kill the board. Has anyone had experience with this?

thanks!
Old 03-26-2019, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jcoo
So I think my ESL is failing. Occasionally the car will just not start, the steering column adjusts itself but I don’t think the ESL is unlocking. After a while, and sometimes with wiggling the steering wheel, you will hear the high-pitched noise and it will start again. It then fails within a few weeks.

I think I would like to just replace the motor. I appreciate all the advice here, and the pictures are very helpful. I still have a couple questions, maybe someone can assist?

I plan on trying to change to motor in the ESL while the ESL is unlocked with the key in the ignition.

1. Is it possible to remove the ESL without pulling the entire steering column? ( i’ve seen references to this other places But no pics)

2. I’ve seen some vendors like Simon touch saying that changing the motor without “repairing the Nec motor position” Will kill the board. Has anyone had experience with this?

thanks!
1. Yes it is possible
2. If you take it apart and assemble in the same position you can do without programing,
Old 03-27-2019, 03:22 PM
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Maybe someone can help me with my problem: I was driven with my car, then I parked and put out the key. 5 Minutes later I wanted to continue driving but my car doesnt start again. The speedometer display is working fine and I also hear sound from the radio. After research in the Internet I found out that it has to be the ESL, because it could be locked and doesnt unlock again after put the key in and so the car doesnt start. Today I finally removed my ESL and for my surprise it was unlocked and now I dont know what to do. Is it still possible that the motor of the ESL is defekt? This would mean that before parking, the ESL was in unlocked position and after I put the key out, the ESL doesn't go back to lock position. Is this possible? So now the mechanic is in unlocked position, but what is with the elecronic? Is the chip now thinking that he is in locked position because he gets the signal after I put the key out? Or doesn't it make any difference what the electronic is thinking? Does it even make sense that it is the ESL? Because like I said the ESL is unlocked and the car still doesnt start.

Last edited by CSKAMoskva11; 03-27-2019 at 03:57 PM.
Old 03-27-2019, 11:26 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by CSKAMoskva11
Maybe someone can help me with my problem: I was driven with my car, then I parked and put out the key. 5 Minutes later I wanted to continue driving but my car doesnt start again. The speedometer display is working fine and I also hear sound from the radio. After research in the Internet I found out that it has to be the ESL, because it could be locked and doesnt unlock again after put the key in and so the car doesnt start. Today I finally removed my ESL and for my surprise it was unlocked and now I dont know what to do. Is it still possible that the motor of the ESL is defekt? This would mean that before parking, the ESL was in unlocked position and after I put the key out, the ESL doesn't go back to lock position. Is this possible? So now the mechanic is in unlocked position, but what is with the elecronic? Is the chip now thinking that he is in locked position because he gets the signal after I put the key out? Or doesn't it make any difference what the electronic is thinking? Does it even make sense that it is the ESL? Because like I said the ESL is unlocked and the car still doesnt start.
Happens all the time, it will get stuck locked or unlocked, or in an intermediate position which is what sets that fatal error when you unplug it.
Old 03-28-2019, 08:37 AM
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I just put out the Motor of the ESL and connect it to 12 V. The motor is working I also connected the ESL back in the car and put the key in and meanwhile measured the Voltage at the ESL motor if something happens, but there is no voltage at the Motor. The 12V at the circuit board are ok. Is it now the chip that is broken or is it more likely that the ignition lock is defekt. With my second key I have the same problem
Old 03-28-2019, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by CSKAMoskva11
I just put out the Motor of the ESL and connect it to 12 V. The motor is working I also connected the ESL back in the car and put the key in and meanwhile measured the Voltage at the ESL motor if something happens, but there is no voltage at the Motor. The 12V at the circuit board are ok. Is it now the chip that is broken or is it more likely that the ignition lock is defekt. With my second key I have the same problem
Its likely especially that you took it all apart. Should have had it properly diagnosed first. Take it to a shop with SD and scan for codes. EIS typically has a fault code for mechanical defect or something along those lines when the ESL goes bad
Old 03-31-2019, 06:38 AM
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First i want to Say that I wish I saw your post 1st before attempting any of this

So when I was pulling A part the assembly I ripped off one of the micro switches by accident. I'm pretty sure I can solder it back on but just in case That doesn't work How do I get an emulator programmed to my EIS? Is there a way for me To program myself The only Emulator I have seen is sold by a guy luckily In my same city but he wants $300 And I know that's Not much but he is saying that it will take 24 to 48 hours minimum before he can get it returned.
Old 05-15-2019, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by knowbenz
No, its completely different. What is wrong with yours? w202 is much simpler to deal with
Tried an emulator as you said, sadly it did not work. Any other ideas on what i could do?

Or did i do something wrong? Second pic is where the cable used to go.

Really appreciating the help

Old 05-16-2019, 09:20 PM
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@kaptenkrok You do not connect k-line wire to both. Only one. I have done many W210 and W203 for my customers before.
Old 05-16-2019, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by kaptenkrok
Tried an emulator as you said, sadly it did not work. Any other ideas on what i could do?

Or did i do something wrong? Second pic is where the cable used to go.

Really appreciating the help
Originally Posted by MBENZTECH
@kaptenkrok You do not connect k-line wire to both. Only one. I have done many W210 and W203 for my customers before.
what he said, it only goes to one Kwire, can't remember which one
Old 05-18-2019, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MBENZTECH
@kaptenkrok You do not connect k-line wire to both. Only one. I have done many W210 and W203 for my customers before.
Sadly didnt work , is there no way to just bypass everything? I honestly dont care anymore as long as it starts
Old 05-18-2019, 08:11 PM
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Well, you can’t bypass the EIS. The best thing to do at this point is to let a pro take a look at it.
Old 05-19-2019, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by kaptenkrok
Sadly didnt work , is there no way to just bypass everything? I honestly dont care anymore as long as it starts
Is your key any good? If the EIS doesn't recognize the key it won't send a signal to ESL.
Old 05-24-2019, 01:39 AM
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Hello,


I have a 2011 e550 convertible. Is this a common issue for this model.

recently had body work done to the car (front bumper, fender replaced). and ever since I got the car back had the car not start and the electronic steering lock not unlock. First happened about a month ago. A day after I picked the car up from the body shop and this has never happened before. Didn’t know at the time about the esl. And was at a gas station. Ran to my house got the second key and still didn’t start but after about 30 minutes started. Than worked fine for a couple days and did it again. This time the battery went out as well. Got it towed back to the body shop and they checked everything and said it maybe bad esl but said I had an improper battery and my alternator was not good and was reading erratic voltages. Had to get a new battery and alternator and has been working great for the last two weeks or so. They felt the car would have no problems now. However today it did it again. Took about 5 minutes but luckily the esl unlocked and car started again. Does this sound like the typical esl issue. Or some eis issue. Or something else? Also anyone near New York that can do or help with this repair.

Hope someone can help. I feel uneasy even turning off the engine to put in gas now.

Thanks

Old 05-24-2019, 12:01 PM
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2010 C300 4MATIC........ 2011 C63 AMG.............. 2015 CLS400 4MATIC.....
Sounds complicated but I wouldn't risk it. If you can diy it, you can fix it for $20 yourself but you lose some downtime. However, you can take advantage of it being in the UNLOCKED position. Locked is a bit more work.


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