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Hopefully you guys can offer some insight with this one... My car *sometimes* starts rough (usually when cold). It runs perfectly (or appears to) after the first 5 seconds or so when it starts like the video depicts.
It happens predictably when the engine is cool, but does not always do it when restarting the car shortly after stopping - like when running into the store, for instance.
I’m not sure where to start -- Many thanks in advance.
No coverage outside of warranty for the chain tensioners and check valves, they have normal warranty like anything else.
The check valves can be driven in with a bolt and socket, tapping lightly with a small hammer or other tool. The MB tool is largely useless and most techs at the shop don't use it to install the valves.
Thanks for the tip - I was hoping there was a way around it!
The problem is that it doesn't really line up straight. We use a bolt with a nut on it to keep the check valve square, and actually if the bolt is bent slightly to clear the timing case it works quite well.
Nice - Love the tip. So, I'm picturing a nut screwed onto a bolt only a few turns so that it provides a "seat" for the check valve to sit in while tapping, and then adjust the screw as needed as the valve seats into the engine, yea? It makes sense and I shouldn't have a problem finding a bent bolt in my pile of 'fun'.
Nice - Love the tip. So, I'm picturing a nut screwed onto a bolt only a few turns so that it provides a "seat" for the check valve to sit in while tapping, and then adjust the screw as needed as the valve seats into the engine, yea? It makes sense and I shouldn't have a problem finding a bent bolt in my pile of 'fun'.
No coverage outside of warranty for the chain tensioners and check valves, they have normal warranty like anything else.
The check valves can be driven in with a bolt and socket, tapping lightly with a small hammer or other tool. The MB tool is largely useless and most techs at the shop don't use it to install the valves.
hey joe, I tapped my check valve in but it isn’t completely flush, there’s maybe a small tidbit that sits out of the head surface. Is it supposed to be completely flush?
Also so is it ok to take off both tensioners or should I do one side and then the other side?
I do both at one time, but there are two different positions where the tension is released, one side is at 40 degrees ATDC, the other side is 360 crank degrees off. You can squeeze the tensioner out anyway and the new ones are pinned down so they fit in, but you have more space if you do one, then turn the engine and do the other as per WIS.
I do both at one time, but there are two different positions where the tension is released, one side is at 40 degrees ATDC, the other side is 360 crank degrees off. You can squeeze the tensioner out anyway and the new ones are pinned down so they fit in, but you have more space if you do one, then turn the engine and do the other as per WIS.
hey joe, not sure if you got a chance to look at the pic but man I’d sure love your input.
Awesome, thanks Joe. Just got done installing the new tensioners (276 050 2500, 2600) both sides.
Trying to get 1mm bead around with the mercedes gasket was tough...next time i'll have to use a gasket gun instead of the plastic piece they sent with it.
Anywho, im cleaning up and re assembling everything. I'll let you guys know how she runs after.
Can I get a dumbed down version of what this problem is and what needs done to correct it? My 2013 C300 does the EXACT same thing. I'm really tired of everyone giving me weird looks and saying "That doesn't sound normal"
Scratch that. I read this thread and the service bulletin a few times and I don't think this is a project I'd tackle myself. I'm going to see what the dealer has to say, but it doesn't sound like a cheap fix. I'll be following to see if you got it though!
Awesome, thanks Joe. Just got done installing the new tensioners (276 050 2500, 2600) both sides.
Trying to get 1mm bead around with the mercedes gasket was tough...next time i'll have to use a gasket gun instead of the plastic piece they sent with it.
Anywho, im cleaning up and re assembling everything. I'll let you guys know how she runs after.
You can use that plastic piece as a spacer and use it with a regular caulking gun. The MB tool is nice but very expensive if you don't use it all the time.
@zrheath I thought it was a pretty cheap fix. $206.50 + $22.56 shipping for the parts from www.genuinemercedesparts.com and ~$8 for the permatex ultra black gasket maker (found locally). No doubt the dealer would want $2000+.
- First start after letting gasket setup for ~6 hours: Made the same noise.
- Drove around for 40 minutes, car ran great (as usual)
- Parked in garage for 2 minutes; Started it up, Made the same noise.
- Let sit over night, just started it ~10 minutes ago, made the same noise, tho not as bad - it didn't sound like it was about to stall.
Are we thinking "cheap oil" (0w-40 fully synthetic castrol edge "euro formula" in last change) now?
What would be another reason oil would be draining from the tensioners if that is in fact the catalyst for this noise?
Really frustrated at this point but happy to have tackled the check valves and tensioners myself.
Last edited by Imrandyru; 09-16-2018 at 11:45 AM.
Reason: Added details to pricing
08-21-2018, 10:11 PM
Problem Discovered.
