2013 C300 Rough Start
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
2013 C300 Rough Start
Hopefully you guys can offer some insight with this one... My car *sometimes* starts rough (usually when cold). It runs perfectly (or appears to) after the first 5 seconds or so when it starts like the video depicts.
It happens predictably when the engine is cool, but does not always do it when restarting the car shortly after stopping - like when running into the store, for instance.
I’m not sure where to start -- Many thanks in advance.
It happens predictably when the engine is cool, but does not always do it when restarting the car shortly after stopping - like when running into the store, for instance.
I’m not sure where to start -- Many thanks in advance.
Last edited by Imrandyru; 08-22-2018 at 01:26 PM.
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Imrandyru (09-11-2018)
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Problem Discovered.
You were not wrong.
http://www.tsbsearch.com/Mercedes-Benz/LI05.10-P-056435
Now if only I could find that $164 tool from a friend... https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-parts...l-276589003300
http://www.tsbsearch.com/Mercedes-Benz/LI05.10-P-056435
Now if only I could find that $164 tool from a friend... https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-parts...l-276589003300
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
You were not wrong.
http://www.tsbsearch.com/Mercedes-Benz/LI05.10-P-056435
Now if only I could find that $164 tool from a friend... https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-parts...l-276589003300
http://www.tsbsearch.com/Mercedes-Benz/LI05.10-P-056435
Now if only I could find that $164 tool from a friend... https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-parts...l-276589003300
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
No coverage outside of warranty for the chain tensioners and check valves, they have normal warranty like anything else.
The check valves can be driven in with a bolt and socket, tapping lightly with a small hammer or other tool. The MB tool is largely useless and most techs at the shop don't use it to install the valves.
The check valves can be driven in with a bolt and socket, tapping lightly with a small hammer or other tool. The MB tool is largely useless and most techs at the shop don't use it to install the valves.
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iamkimosabi (09-14-2018)
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#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Nice - Love the tip. So, I'm picturing a nut screwed onto a bolt only a few turns so that it provides a "seat" for the check valve to sit in while tapping, and then adjust the screw as needed as the valve seats into the engine, yea? It makes sense and I shouldn't have a problem finding a bent bolt in my pile of 'fun'.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Nice - Love the tip. So, I'm picturing a nut screwed onto a bolt only a few turns so that it provides a "seat" for the check valve to sit in while tapping, and then adjust the screw as needed as the valve seats into the engine, yea? It makes sense and I shouldn't have a problem finding a bent bolt in my pile of 'fun'.
#11
Member
No coverage outside of warranty for the chain tensioners and check valves, they have normal warranty like anything else.
The check valves can be driven in with a bolt and socket, tapping lightly with a small hammer or other tool. The MB tool is largely useless and most techs at the shop don't use it to install the valves.
The check valves can be driven in with a bolt and socket, tapping lightly with a small hammer or other tool. The MB tool is largely useless and most techs at the shop don't use it to install the valves.
Also so is it ok to take off both tensioners or should I do one side and then the other side?
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
They should go in flush without forcing them.
I do both at one time, but there are two different positions where the tension is released, one side is at 40 degrees ATDC, the other side is 360 crank degrees off. You can squeeze the tensioner out anyway and the new ones are pinned down so they fit in, but you have more space if you do one, then turn the engine and do the other as per WIS.
I do both at one time, but there are two different positions where the tension is released, one side is at 40 degrees ATDC, the other side is 360 crank degrees off. You can squeeze the tensioner out anyway and the new ones are pinned down so they fit in, but you have more space if you do one, then turn the engine and do the other as per WIS.
#13
Member
Seems like I can’t go any more flush than this. Is this good or should I tap harder?
If I glide my finger over it I can feel it poke out a tiny bit.
If I glide my finger over it I can feel it poke out a tiny bit.
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
that's what he said...
#16
Member
They should go in flush without forcing them.
I do both at one time, but there are two different positions where the tension is released, one side is at 40 degrees ATDC, the other side is 360 crank degrees off. You can squeeze the tensioner out anyway and the new ones are pinned down so they fit in, but you have more space if you do one, then turn the engine and do the other as per WIS.
I do both at one time, but there are two different positions where the tension is released, one side is at 40 degrees ATDC, the other side is 360 crank degrees off. You can squeeze the tensioner out anyway and the new ones are pinned down so they fit in, but you have more space if you do one, then turn the engine and do the other as per WIS.
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iamkimosabi (09-15-2018)
#18
Member
Awesome, thanks Joe. Just got done installing the new tensioners (276 050 2500, 2600) both sides.
Trying to get 1mm bead around with the mercedes gasket was tough...next time i'll have to use a gasket gun instead of the plastic piece they sent with it.
Anywho, im cleaning up and re assembling everything. I'll let you guys know how she runs after.
Trying to get 1mm bead around with the mercedes gasket was tough...next time i'll have to use a gasket gun instead of the plastic piece they sent with it.
Anywho, im cleaning up and re assembling everything. I'll let you guys know how she runs after.
#19
Can I get a dumbed down version of what this problem is and what needs done to correct it? My 2013 C300 does the EXACT same thing. I'm really tired of everyone giving me weird looks and saying "That doesn't sound normal"
Scratch that. I read this thread and the service bulletin a few times and I don't think this is a project I'd tackle myself. I'm going to see what the dealer has to say, but it doesn't sound like a cheap fix. I'll be following to see if you got it though!
Scratch that. I read this thread and the service bulletin a few times and I don't think this is a project I'd tackle myself. I'm going to see what the dealer has to say, but it doesn't sound like a cheap fix. I'll be following to see if you got it though!
Last edited by zrheath; 09-15-2018 at 07:30 PM.
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Awesome, thanks Joe. Just got done installing the new tensioners (276 050 2500, 2600) both sides.
Trying to get 1mm bead around with the mercedes gasket was tough...next time i'll have to use a gasket gun instead of the plastic piece they sent with it.
Anywho, im cleaning up and re assembling everything. I'll let you guys know how she runs after.
Trying to get 1mm bead around with the mercedes gasket was tough...next time i'll have to use a gasket gun instead of the plastic piece they sent with it.
Anywho, im cleaning up and re assembling everything. I'll let you guys know how she runs after.
#21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
@zrheath I thought it was a pretty cheap fix. $206.50 + $22.56 shipping for the parts from www.genuinemercedesparts.com and ~$8 for the permatex ultra black gasket maker (found locally). No doubt the dealer would want $2000+.
https://www.genuinemercedesparts.com...r-276050250064
https://www.genuinemercedesparts.com...r-276050260064
https://www.genuinemercedesparts.com...lve-2780503300
However....
- First start after letting gasket setup for ~6 hours: Made the same noise.
- Drove around for 40 minutes, car ran great (as usual)
- Parked in garage for 2 minutes; Started it up, Made the same noise.
- Let sit over night, just started it ~10 minutes ago, made the same noise, tho not as bad - it didn't sound like it was about to stall.
Are we thinking "cheap oil" (0w-40 fully synthetic castrol edge "euro formula" in last change) now?
What would be another reason oil would be draining from the tensioners if that is in fact the catalyst for this noise?
Really frustrated at this point but happy to have tackled the check valves and tensioners myself.
https://www.genuinemercedesparts.com...r-276050250064
https://www.genuinemercedesparts.com...r-276050260064
https://www.genuinemercedesparts.com...lve-2780503300
However....
- First start after letting gasket setup for ~6 hours: Made the same noise.
- Drove around for 40 minutes, car ran great (as usual)
- Parked in garage for 2 minutes; Started it up, Made the same noise.
- Let sit over night, just started it ~10 minutes ago, made the same noise, tho not as bad - it didn't sound like it was about to stall.
Are we thinking "cheap oil" (0w-40 fully synthetic castrol edge "euro formula" in last change) now?
What would be another reason oil would be draining from the tensioners if that is in fact the catalyst for this noise?
Really frustrated at this point but happy to have tackled the check valves and tensioners myself.
Last edited by Imrandyru; 09-16-2018 at 11:45 AM. Reason: Added details to pricing