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C250 Sport - No oil change in 6 years and 50K miles.

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Old 07-22-2020 | 07:02 AM
  #126  
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azblk after i saw your first post,, i was willing to circumsize you with a butchers chopper ,,for free .
Old 07-22-2020 | 12:22 PM
  #127  
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So it looks like you have the oils changes down, what other maintenance/repairs have you done in the 9k miles since the head job?
Old 07-22-2020 | 12:26 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Frnakito71
That's way beyond procrastination! Good luck
An act of sheer lunacy....
Old 07-22-2020 | 12:56 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Xzero
So it looks like you have the oils changes down, what other maintenance/repairs have you done in the 9k miles since the head job?
None. All consumables except the transmission fluid were changed during the head job. Will change the brakes this week as check brake warning came on this week
Old 07-22-2020 | 01:04 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by azblk
None. All consumables except the transmission fluid were changed during the head job. Will change the brakes this week as check brake warning came on this week
Awesome!

Are you going to service the transmission when due? I’m not trying to rude or anything, just genuinely curious to know if your preventative maintenance views have changed or if you’re still following the “ignore it until there’s an issue” mentality.
Old 07-22-2020 | 01:24 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by Xzero
Awesome!

Are you going to service the transmission when due? I’m not trying to rude or anything, just genuinely curious to know if your preventative maintenance views have changed or if you’re still following the “ignore it until there’s an issue” mentality.
The jury is still out on the transmission fluid. I have read that it should changed after 50K miles while others say its a lifetime fill and that if you changed it in a high mileage car you just introduce problems in your transmission as the oil viscosity changes. As to my attitudes towards doing preventative maintenance, I did not set out to run it until it fails - there was just way too much turmoil in my life in that time that simple maintenance tasks just kept getting skipped.
Old 07-22-2020 | 01:28 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by azblk
The jury is still out on the transmission fluid. I have read that it should changed after 50K miles while others say its a lifetime fill and that if you changed it in a high mileage car you just introduce problems in your transmission as the oil viscosity changes. As to my attitudes towards doing preventative maintenance, I did not set out to run it until it fails - there was just way too much turmoil in my life in that time that simple maintenance tasks just kept getting skipped.
Makes sense and thanks for the clarification at the end.

I don’t think I’ve said it yet but excellent job on the repairs and work you’ve put into this.
Old 07-05-2021 | 04:46 PM
  #133  
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Great work, thanks for taking us along for the ride. That’s the best thing about these forums. I’m tackling a head gasket and timing chain job now myself.
Old 08-15-2022 | 11:54 AM
  #134  
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Mercedes Benz E250 CGI
Azblk, this was the most exciting thread to follow. Like watching an action movie! You are brave!

I’ll have to replace a head gasket on my 2010 E250 CGI with M271.860 engine. It’s done 121K Kms.

I’m not planning to replace the chain as it was replaced 50K Kms ago.

I have a few questions, please.

1. Did you have to apply RTV Loctite SI 5900 when bolting on the End Cover (see pic)

2. How thick is the bead of RTV that you applied under the cam cradle?

3. So, if I use the black wedge I won’t have to remove the chain tensioner?

Old 08-17-2022 | 11:57 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by Milor
Azblk, this was the most exciting thread to follow. Like watching an action movie! You are brave!

I’ll have to replace a head gasket on my 2010 E250 CGI with M271.860 engine. It’s done 121K Kms.

I’m not planning to replace the chain as it was replaced 50K Kms ago.

I have a few questions, please.

1. Did you have to apply RTV Loctite SI 5900 when bolting on the End Cover (see pic)

2. How thick is the bead of RTV that you applied under the cam cradle?

3. So, if I use the black wedge I won’t have to remove the chain tensioner?

1. Did you have to apply RTV Loctite SI 5900 when bolting on the End Cover (see pic) - yes

2. How thick is the bead of RTV that you applied under the cam cradle? Hard to describe and i did not take any pictures but it was just one continous bead same size as tube exit.
something like this video

3. So, if I use the black wedge I won’t have to remove the chain tensioner? Yes the black wedge compresses the tensioner so you do not have to remove it.

Last edited by azblk; 08-17-2022 at 12:00 PM.
Old 08-19-2022 | 02:01 AM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by azblk
1. Did you have to apply RTV Loctite SI 5900 when bolting on the End Cover (see pic) - yes

2. How thick is the bead of RTV that you applied under the cam cradle? Hard to describe and i did not take any pictures but it was just one continous bead same size as tube exit.
something like this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21CvanhKILA

3. So, if I use the black wedge I won’t have to remove the chain tensioner? Yes the black wedge compresses the tensioner so you do not have to remove it.

Many thanks for your response, azblk! Thanks for your effort.
I just found in WIS (not easy to navigate) where it says that the bead should be 2mm x 2mm, +/- 0.5mm.

I'm so sorry to bother you, but I have a couple more questions for you.

I think I feel comfortable with most tasks involved in changing the head gasket. The only area that I would stress about is removing / replacing fuel injectors and the high pressure fuel pump.
According to WIS, in order to remove the fuel pump, the crank needs to be rotated to a certain mark. Is this really necessary?





For fuel injectors, do they just come out with the fuel rail or is it a struggle to pull them out (as seen in this YouTube video)?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvNEU...el=Username_af

Also, do the white seals need to be replaced? (see below pic)




If yes, it seems that a special tool is needed? (as per pic below)


Many thanks!

Last edited by Milor; 08-19-2022 at 02:03 AM.
Old 08-22-2022 | 05:12 PM
  #137  
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2013 C250 SPORT, 2014 WRX STI SEDAN, 2017 E300 4MATIC
Originally Posted by Milor
Many thanks for your response, azblk! Thanks for your effort.
I just found in WIS (not easy to navigate) where it says that the bead should be 2mm x 2mm, +/- 0.5mm.

I'm so sorry to bother you, but I have a couple more questions for you.

I think I feel comfortable with most tasks involved in changing the head gasket. The only area that I would stress about is removing / replacing fuel injectors and the high pressure fuel pump.
According to WIS, in order to remove the fuel pump, the crank needs to be rotated to a certain mark. Is this really necessary?





For fuel injectors, do they just come out with the fuel rail or is it a struggle to pull them out (as seen in this YouTube video)?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvNEU...el=Username_af

Also, do the white seals need to be replaced? (see below pic)




If yes, it seems that a special tool is needed? (as per pic below)


Many thanks!
The injectors came out with the fuel rail. No I did not replace the white seals
Old 08-22-2022 | 06:56 PM
  #138  
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Many thanks, azblk!

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