C-Class (W204) 2008 - 2014: C180K, C200K, C230, C280, C300, C350, C200CDI, C220CDI, C320CDI

C250 Sport - No oil change in 6 years and 50K miles.

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Old 05-02-2019, 10:51 AM
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2013 C250 SPORT, 2014 WRX STI SEDAN, 2017 E300 4MATIC
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Old 05-02-2019, 10:58 AM
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Old 05-02-2019, 11:08 AM
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2014 - W212 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Originally Posted by azblk
My car, my money and my time. what I do with them is my business. Gotta wonder who the idiot is here? The person who goes out of their way to register an insulting user name just to post an attack on someone else because of what they do with their property?
Agree 100%. Ignore them AZ.
I wish there are more people like you who actually enjoy such experiment.
I do destruction testing too on some of my stuff, but nothing as expensive as an engine though.
Keep up the good work my man.
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:16 PM
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Maybe the haters lack the talent and ***** to tackle a job like this. If you got the money and interest to take on this job then screw the non believers. A lot of people on here can't even do an oil change.
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:30 PM
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How much longer before you are ready to fire it up? Your last post seemed like you were close to getting the whole thing put back together.
Old 05-02-2019, 01:30 PM
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2013 C250 SPORT, 2014 WRX STI SEDAN, 2017 E300 4MATIC
Originally Posted by Alfadude
How much longer before you are ready to fire it up? Your last post seemed like you were close to getting the whole thing put back together.
I should have it running if it runs in a week at most. I currently stuck at timing/chain install. I had to order a special tool kit for this part because MB updated the cam shaft adjusters and as result I can not set the timing and chain the way i originally intended to. I was going to use a crescent wrench on each cam but with the updated design I cant fit a crescent wrench in the space between the camshaft adjuster and the bearing/housing. So am waiting on that to come.




Last edited by azblk; 05-02-2019 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 05-02-2019, 03:20 PM
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DId you check the turbo out and its bearings?
Wonder if they survived?

Did you check the crank bearings and journals?
Rods and wrist pins?

Or all you did was top end?

Cam shaft bearing surface look scored in pictures but hard to tell without a good close up.
Did you measure cam bearing verus bearnig bore?

Wonder what the oil pressure will be upon start up.
Make sure you video that.
Old 05-02-2019, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ygmn
DId you check the turbo out and its bearings?
Wonder if they survived?

Did you check the crank bearings and journals?
Rods and wrist pins?

Or all you did was top end?

Cam shaft bearing surface look scored in pictures but hard to tell without a good close up.
Did you measure cam bearing verus bearnig bore?

Wonder what the oil pressure will be upon start up.
Make sure you video that.
Just did the top side. I could not get to the crunk without either pulling engine or dropping the oil pan, so I dont know how it is down there. The oil pan is blocked by the sub-frame on this car so I did could not drop that either. I am applying Occam's razor to this job - simplest solution. If it doesn't run or runs poorly then I will pull the whole engine. Considering that it was running just fine save for the coolant leaking in oil and the white smoke - am optimistic it will run fine again.
The cam bearing/cams are not scored. Just didnt do a very good job cleaning them.
Old 05-02-2019, 04:54 PM
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flush it thoroughly

You're probably going to want to flush everything real thoroughly and put some moly lube additive to smooth out the rough spots on the bearing surfaces.
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Old 05-02-2019, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Kelvin Bellrose
You're probably going to want to flush everything real thoroughly and put some moly lube additive to smooth out the rough spots on the bearing surfaces.

I drained the old oil. Will put new oil and add that detergent. Run it for 20 minutes and change oil again. If it runs again will do a flush with the first couple of oil changes 🤬🤬
Old 05-03-2019, 02:23 AM
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When are people going to learn engine flushes are BAD .
Old 05-03-2019, 02:29 AM
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2013 C250 SPORT, 2014 WRX STI SEDAN, 2017 E300 4MATIC
Originally Posted by Gazwould
When are people going to learn engine flushes are BAD .
Given the state of this engine I don’t think there is much of a choice. I bought this car brand new and never changed the oil. Am pretty sure there is gunk in places I can not see
Old 05-03-2019, 05:27 AM
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Exactly why you should not use it as it disloges crap that can block finer oil galleries.

I would do very short oil changes to gently clean after all oil contains detergents and dispersants - polar heads with hydrocarbon tails !
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Gazwould
Exactly why you should not use it as it disloges crap that can block finer oil galleries.

I would do very short oil changes to gently clean after all oil contains detergents and dispersants - polar heads with hydrocarbon tails !
Thats something to think about. Any one else want to chime in?
Old 05-03-2019, 01:10 PM
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Oil cleans oil best imo... solvents can backfire. Quick interval changes are prob safest. Mad props to OP.
Old 05-05-2019, 01:57 AM
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So when does the "Rebuild" start? So far its a valve job ! To "rebuild" the very first step is removing it from the vehicle. Any bets on how long it lasts?
Old 05-09-2019, 02:23 PM
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Just a little update for those that were following. I am still stuck setting the timing. I received the tool kit I ordered yesterday evening but the locking jig does not work. (stay away from cheap chinese eBay kits). It is too large on exhaust side and wont lock that cam in place as a result my timing would be about 2mm off.


Exhaust side wont lock. Gap between jig and cam

Locks. No gap this side

Full view

The black wedge in chain housing compresses the tensioner and removes the need to remove the tensioner if you are not replacing it.

Last edited by azblk; 05-09-2019 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 05-09-2019, 09:46 PM
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I have not said much here but following this thread closely.
This is a huge undertaking
Old 05-10-2019, 10:41 AM
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Finally got the timing the set and chain riveted. I used an old mechanics trick (electrical tape) to get the cam locking jig to work. Put several layers of electrical tape on one side of the fingers and created a washer of sorts. It was enough to keep the cam in place. After locking cam it was just a matter of removing the sprocket, putting chain on, aligning and torquing it back in place. Rotated engine several times and it remained in time.

From here on out it should just be a matter of reassembling the rest of the engine, Add power steering fluid, engine oil and coolant. Double check and fire it up. Hopefully this evening or tomorrow will have it running.


Used electrical tape to pad one side of the locking jig to create a washer of sorts.



Improvised washer worked well.



Cams lined up and new chain riveted.



All three points aligned and chain back on. Timing is SET.

Last edited by azblk; 09-20-2019 at 12:03 AM. Reason: grammer
Old 05-14-2019, 09:55 AM
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The thing has been put back together. Now to just add fluids - power steering, oil and coolant - then we shall know if the experiment succeeded. I have deliberately left the heat shield off to check for exhaust leaks.


We will know soon enough if this experiment succeeded.




Heat shield is still off to check for exhaust leaks if any. Battery still needs to be put back in.
Old 05-14-2019, 10:23 AM
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My fingers are crossed for you. Good luck!
Old 05-14-2019, 10:40 AM
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Good luck!
Old 05-14-2019, 10:50 AM
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2014 - W212 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Good luck too
Old 05-15-2019, 03:32 AM
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Yeeha
Old 05-15-2019, 03:33 PM
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Its running

Its alive

Last edited by azblk; 06-24-2019 at 10:29 PM.
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