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My DWS06 Rears are now cupped

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Old Aug 20, 2019 | 02:42 PM
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2010 C300 4MATIC........ 2011 C63 AMG.............. 2015 CLS400 4MATIC.....
My DWS06 Rears are now cupped

It's almost been 2 years, around 18,000 miles and my rear tires are cupped.

Apparently continental does not cover uneven tread under warranty even though my other set of continentals wore fine.
I swapped into my old set and no more loud noise coming from the rear.

What's the point of having a "72 month warranty" when most stuff is only covered for 12 months and then you have curve ball items like
bubbling covered by warranty?

And yes, my alignment is fine.

Frankly I'm disappointed. Performance was great, but this is obnoxious, especially for the price I paid back then.

Last edited by Adi-Benz; Aug 21, 2019 at 09:29 AM.
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Old Aug 20, 2019 | 04:46 PM
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HOw did they cup if alignment is fine?
Are shocks out and letting them bounce?
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Old Aug 20, 2019 | 05:32 PM
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Shocks seem fine
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Old Aug 20, 2019 | 05:37 PM
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This is the same reason I will never buy anything but michelins.
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Old Aug 20, 2019 | 07:22 PM
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Same issue here. I was told staggered setup causes it.
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 06:26 AM
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Nahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh......

I have tires on my truck I never rotate and they are fine.
LAst set on my E400 were worn evenely just the rears first they were CONTI PRocontact or something.

now I have same DSW from Conti but only 2500 miles on them... wearing even great in heavy rain. tiny bit noiser on crappy roads but traction feels goo for the high mileage rating.

I have never seen tires wear funky (cup, feathered whatever) without some underlying aligment, suspension issue....
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ygmn
Nahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh......

I have tires on my truck I never rotate and they are fine.
LAst set on my E400 were worn evenely just the rears first they were CONTI PRocontact or something.

now I have same DSW from Conti but only 2500 miles on them... wearing even great in heavy rain. tiny bit noiser on crappy roads but traction feels goo for the high mileage rating.

I have never seen tires wear funky (cup, feathered whatever) without some underlying aligment, suspension issue....
Wait till you get to 10,000km and report back lol. I had all my alignment and suspension checked by 1 Mb dealership and 1 auto repair shop that fixes Porsche and Ferrari's, they also bought the best alignment machine available. Still had awful wear on the tears with the conti's.

Mb did the check when I got the new tires and the other shop did the work when I noticed slight wear on both rears. I drive on the highway a lot so I'm always checking my tires weekly.( yes it's over kill but I'd rather catch wear or an issue before I go on a long trip lol)

The Michelin's handle hands down better than any tire, they preform better snow, rain and sun. I've had them for 20,000km on a staggered set up with no wear issues.

The conti tires have awful rolling when you hit a corner with any speed. With the Michelin's you feel like your stuck on train tracks how tight they sick to the road.

Im a firm believer with this saying you get what you pay for the end of the day.

I wish I could swap cars with you for 1 ride in the first corner you would say" damn this is hands down way better"
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 08:03 AM
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I have had Michelin before on other cars.... and too me it is all internet hype...

Not much better then other name brand tires.... just way more expensive - And french.

Too each his own as tires are like what brand of oil... debate...

cupping is more due to bad suspension then anything else.. read up on it....

Good luck and peace....
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ygmn
I have had Michelin before on other cars.... and too me it is all internet hype...

Not much better then other name brand tires.... just way more expensive - And french.

Too each his own as tires are like what brand of oil... debate...

cupping is more due to bad suspension then anything else.. read up on it....

Good luck and peace....
I personally like Michelin because they honer their warranty to the last KM listed and they already lasted longer than the Conti's the price difference is like $35 a tire. I think anything made in Europe is probably better quality than US quality.

again we could go on and on !!!

you said it right "I agree with too each their own." we can debate all day, at the end of the day, its the brands you yourself have to try and build an opinion on.

adi post a picture of your tire if you can, ill see if i can dig one up of mine.
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 09:28 AM
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Ok I'll try and get a picture tomorrow.

As far as handling, as I run them year round, they are impeccable, dry and snow.

I wonder if this can cause damage to the transfer case? Or does the diff compensate that as normal anyways, no problem?

My previous set which I have right now is the contiprocontact which were OEM. Wear is normal.

Also as far as {you get what you pay for} they were like $1000+ dollars at the time, so, they weren't the cheapest tire on the block...

Last edited by Adi-Benz; Aug 21, 2019 at 09:30 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 05:39 PM
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That's unfortunate. Like others, I've always been taught cupping comes from bad shocks.

As a datapoint, my OEM rear ContiPros were at 8/32nds at 15,750 miles, so that projects out to replacement by 22K. If that's a normal rate, getting 18K isn't too far off.
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 09:16 PM
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I experienced this. My snow tires cupped like crazy in the front, rear was fine. I also started having issues with inside wear/cupping on the OEM tires. So now a days every couple months I roadforce balance my tires and I do an alignment about every 6 months plus frequently check pressures. I like to run on the higher side, 41 front 43 rear (staggered) and wear on the new OEM tires is really good. Ironically, the rears last better then the fronts... I have to see how my new front snow tires wear (had a blow out this winter) but doing those things greatly reduced the wear issue then. Apparently, both BMW and Mercedes are known to have this issue, most likely due to suspension geometry settings for handling.

Often though abnormal wear like that is due to wear in the suspension, doesn’t mean the part is bad but it’s worn.

in regards to brands? I’d say both continental and Michelin are at the top, personally I’d say Michelin is better, tire depending. I find continentals are more likely to scallop or cup on the sides. But to be honest I think tire pressure plays a huge role on that, even a few psi...
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 09:39 PM
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Will rebalancing my rear wheels help?
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Adi-Benz
Will rebalancing my rear wheels help?

Well, you said the alignment is good so a few questions and then my response on what I’d suggest trying. What are your tire pressures and are you square setup? If you take your hand and run over the center tread area does it feel smooth or a little bumpy going in the direction of the tread? How much tread is left about as well? And is the front wear good?

Last edited by Just204; Aug 21, 2019 at 09:50 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Just204


Well, you said the alignment is good so a few questions and then my response on what I’d suggest trying. What are your tire pressures and are you square setup? If you take your hand and run over the center tread area does it feel smooth or a little bumpy going in the direction of the tread? How much tread is left about as well? And is the front wear good?
Sure thing - little bumpy on the rear tires. There's a lot of tread left, DWS printed (dry, wet, snow) snow is still visible on all 4 tires. The front has normal wear, no issues. Still, these tires (all 4) look basically new, as these are supposed to have a high tread rating and theoretically do 50-60k miles (obviously with change in performance, but still perfectly useable)
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 10:14 AM
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Ok, when the tread in the center is bumpy that’s a sign the wheels need to be balanced again. I would balance the tires every oil change but it doesn’t cost me anything lol. Next, if your running in the 30s psi ish range bump it up to 40psi or so. Next, if the tires/wheels are the same do a tire rotation, except I’m staggered and can’t rotate. For me, this worked with helping my weird wear issue. After about 5-7k see what happens, I’d like to know if that worked!
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 10:24 AM
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Yea I've been running 40psi all around since I got the wheels. I'll give them a rebalance today and see how it goes! And yes mine are staggered (8.5/235 front, 9.5/265 rear) so no rotation. Maybe switch sides? Although that doesn't really do much.
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Adi-Benz
Yea I've been running 40psi all around since I got the wheels. I'll give them a rebalance today and see how it goes! And yes mine are staggered (8.5/235 front, 9.5/265 rear) so no rotation. Maybe switch sides? Although that doesn't really do much.
It probably won’t make much difference side to side. Since your similar on the wheels, do 41-42 front and 2-3 psi more in the rear cold, and have the wheels rebalanced, not have them check, an actual balance. Road force balance if your willing to pay for it, that will include a force-match if nessesary.all my tires/wheels are 15lbs force or less, anything over 21lbs have them bring it down. These things will hopefully give some result, monitor the tires every 1k or and check the tread wear to make sure it’s even.
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 11:10 AM
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Sounds good, thanks for all your help! Although, 42 front and say 45 rear cold, when they get warmed up and starts to get near 50 psi, isn't that way too much?

Factory gas cap says 30 front/35 rear, these are wider (albeit thinner) tires, and I believe something like 52psi is the max - that seems like a lot?

Also the lower the force lbs the better?

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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Adi-Benz
Sounds good, thanks for all your help! Although, 42 front and say 45 rear cold, when they get warmed up and starts to get near 50 psi, isn't that way too much?

Factory gas cap says 30 front/35 rear, these are wider (albeit thinner) tires, and I believe something like 52psi is the max - that seems like a lot?
Mine will get to maybe 48 in the rear most on a real hot day, usually not higher so that’s still ok, if it gets real hot out of no where just adjust the pressures. I usually have a small tire inflator I can inflate them with if I need to. Are you going by the pressures on the gas door or on the b-pillar by the drivers door catch? Mine are different between the 2.
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Adi-Benz
Sounds good, thanks for all your help! Although, 42 front and say 45 rear cold, when they get warmed up and starts to get near 50 psi, isn't that way too much?

Factory gas cap says 30 front/35 rear, these are wider (albeit thinner) tires, and I believe something like 52psi is the max - that seems like a lot?

Also the lower the force lbs the better?
Try 41 front 43 rear
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 12:13 PM
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I think it was discussed on the forums, that the gas cap PSI should be followed over the door jamb psi. Forgot the reason but that was the conclusion.

Lower force lbs on the road force balance the better?
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 12:14 PM
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Top pic is front tires (fine)
Lower pic is rear tire (other is covered)
I know these aren't the exact pics you all were looking for but it's best I can do for now.

My DWS06 Rears are now cupped-xks4ztp.jpg

My DWS06 Rears are now cupped-rpvdlwr.jpg
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 12:46 PM
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I follow the door jam. The gas door psi is a generic one. The sticker on the jam is specific to that cars OEM original wheel setup. Mine says 39F/42R on the jam. I then adjust the pressure based on preference/wear. Those tires will have a tendency to cup/chop easily, reason is the tread design on the outside is very blocky- better for cornering, not so nessesarily for wear. That’s why I had an issue with my snow tires which are high performance snow tires with a blocky design. Best thought is for you to experiment on the tire pressures. And make sure the rear suspension bushings are good.
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 01:53 PM
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Adi, what size rims are you running and what size was stock?

I noticed my rears starting to cup and it was because I was running too low of PSI. Always remember side wear is low psi and center wear is high psi 75% of the time.

I was running around 37-38 psi rear but I moved from 17 inch to 18 inch so door jam and gas cap area are wrong, I actually needed 43-45 psi to get better and more even wear. I ended up just getting a whole new set of DWS's and keeping my old ones for spares or if I burn through my rear michelins on my 63 too quick.

Just simply saying if you aren't running stock rim size and setup from stock then disregard placards on car for tire psi.
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