Car Start Trouble -
09-25-2019, 08:01 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Car Start Trouble -
Hey guys,
Had the following problems with my 2010 C300 with 95K miles: Turned off car at a gas station, Was inside the car when I took the key out of the ignition and pressed the lock button (while I was inside the car), unlocked it again and tried to start it. Nothing. I could go into on position, and turn it all the way, but nothing, no crank, like the battery was dead.
The steering column still moved at first, but eventually after a few tries that stopped moving as well.
I read a few posts about the ESL being bad, and people replacing the entire ESL, or only the motor. Also read up on emulators to bypass the ESL completely. It’s all still confusing to me. I am not trying to go to the dealership, so my car is with my mechanic.
1) If I replace the ESL, won’t I need to “sync” it up with my key fob? Who can do this work other than the dealer? How do I find these people who do this syncing? I’m in the Washington DC area FYI.
2) Do I have to replace the EIS as well? How would I know whether or not I have to replace it?
3) Finally, could it be something simpler, like the anti theft or similar since I was inside the car and locked it, then unlocked it? (I don’t know why I wanted to do that ....)
Thanks for all your help in advance!
Had the following problems with my 2010 C300 with 95K miles: Turned off car at a gas station, Was inside the car when I took the key out of the ignition and pressed the lock button (while I was inside the car), unlocked it again and tried to start it. Nothing. I could go into on position, and turn it all the way, but nothing, no crank, like the battery was dead.
The steering column still moved at first, but eventually after a few tries that stopped moving as well.
I read a few posts about the ESL being bad, and people replacing the entire ESL, or only the motor. Also read up on emulators to bypass the ESL completely. It’s all still confusing to me. I am not trying to go to the dealership, so my car is with my mechanic.
1) If I replace the ESL, won’t I need to “sync” it up with my key fob? Who can do this work other than the dealer? How do I find these people who do this syncing? I’m in the Washington DC area FYI.
2) Do I have to replace the EIS as well? How would I know whether or not I have to replace it?
3) Finally, could it be something simpler, like the anti theft or similar since I was inside the car and locked it, then unlocked it? (I don’t know why I wanted to do that ....)
Thanks for all your help in advance!
Last edited by schefdeh5; 09-25-2019 at 08:07 AM.
09-25-2019, 10:59 AM
#2
Super Member
Well, one of the symptoms is it happens suddenly after you removed the key, walked into a store, get in , nothing. When you insert the key the wirr sound is missing. Some say you can wiggle the steering wheel to get out of the situation if you lucky once.
In my case they replaced the EIS 1st, then week later the ESL and that solved the problem.I had to provide ID, proof of purchase etc before I could get the car from dealer, at that stage it was not a well known problem where I live The outsourced ESL manufacturing is the weak point, not sure if they can fry the EIS in the process as well. I could lock/unlock the car and lights came on. My confidence in Mercedes took an irreversible dip here.
In my case they replaced the EIS 1st, then week later the ESL and that solved the problem.I had to provide ID, proof of purchase etc before I could get the car from dealer, at that stage it was not a well known problem where I live The outsourced ESL manufacturing is the weak point, not sure if they can fry the EIS in the process as well. I could lock/unlock the car and lights came on. My confidence in Mercedes took an irreversible dip here.
09-25-2019, 07:11 PM
#3
Super Member
09-26-2019, 10:32 AM
#4
Super Member
Hey guys,
Had the following problems with my 2010 C300 with 95K miles: Turned off car at a gas station, Was inside the car when I took the key out of the ignition and pressed the lock button (while I was inside the car), unlocked it again and tried to start it. Nothing. I could go into on position, and turn it all the way, but nothing, no crank, like the battery was dead.
The steering column still moved at first, but eventually after a few tries that stopped moving as well.
I read a few posts about the ESL being bad, and people replacing the entire ESL, or only the motor. Also read up on emulators to bypass the ESL completely. It’s all still confusing to me. I am not trying to go to the dealership, so my car is with my mechanic.
1) If I replace the ESL, won’t I need to “sync” it up with my key fob? Who can do this work other than the dealer? How do I find these people who do this syncing? I’m in the Washington DC area FYI.
2) Do I have to replace the EIS as well? How would I know whether or not I have to replace it?
3) Finally, could it be something simpler, like the anti theft or similar since I was inside the car and locked it, then unlocked it? (I don’t know why I wanted to do that ....)
Thanks for all your help in advance!
Had the following problems with my 2010 C300 with 95K miles: Turned off car at a gas station, Was inside the car when I took the key out of the ignition and pressed the lock button (while I was inside the car), unlocked it again and tried to start it. Nothing. I could go into on position, and turn it all the way, but nothing, no crank, like the battery was dead.
The steering column still moved at first, but eventually after a few tries that stopped moving as well.
I read a few posts about the ESL being bad, and people replacing the entire ESL, or only the motor. Also read up on emulators to bypass the ESL completely. It’s all still confusing to me. I am not trying to go to the dealership, so my car is with my mechanic.
1) If I replace the ESL, won’t I need to “sync” it up with my key fob? Who can do this work other than the dealer? How do I find these people who do this syncing? I’m in the Washington DC area FYI.
2) Do I have to replace the EIS as well? How would I know whether or not I have to replace it?
3) Finally, could it be something simpler, like the anti theft or similar since I was inside the car and locked it, then unlocked it? (I don’t know why I wanted to do that ....)
Thanks for all your help in advance!
Try the wheel-turning trick. You might get lucky and shock it loose.
09-26-2019, 01:18 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Milwaukee, WI
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2010 C300 4MATIC........ 2011 C63 AMG.............. 2015 CLS400 4MATIC.....
Sounds like ESL. I replaced motor and no need for programming. Dealer doesn't replace motor though.
09-30-2019, 08:49 AM
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
I'm thinking I want to get an emulator instead of replacing both EIS and ESL. I dont want to replace both those things just to have it die on me on day. It's safer to just bypass this entire stupid ESL/EIS issue. Car is at my indy mechanic right now.
Does an emulator work or am I being crazy?
Does an emulator work or am I being crazy?
10-02-2019, 11:59 AM
#7
Member
A weak battery might not have enough juice to turn the ESL motor, so have battery fully charged and see if it solves the problem. As far as the emulator is concerned, I would get it because you don’t have to worry the ESL anymore.
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10-17-2019, 09:01 AM
#8
Newbie
Thread Starter
Quick Update: Got the emulator, took out the old ESL (which failed in the LOCK position - pain in the A$$$$$!!!!) installed it, and no more problems. The C300 has always been a good reliable car, and I still stand by that. This ESL/EIS issue is an anomaly to me.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
10-17-2019, 09:29 AM
#9
Senior Member
Good to know the issue is resolved.
Where did you get the emulator from and did you do the work yourself?
Do you know if this is an issue with the C250 2013 also? I'm at 86k and should I be proactive and change it out already?
Lots of questions but hopefully someone can answer this for me.
Where did you get the emulator from and did you do the work yourself?
Do you know if this is an issue with the C250 2013 also? I'm at 86k and should I be proactive and change it out already?
Lots of questions but hopefully someone can answer this for me.
10-17-2019, 12:13 PM
#11
Newbie
Thread Starter
I got the emulator from Ebay and a guy named Charlie worked on it for me. Here's his number: 613-668-0784. $300 including 1-day DHL shipping to Canada. He worked it, and i provided him both keys, programmed it, sent it back.
I installed it with some help from my mechanic, since he was not comfortable doing it. I wasn't able to take out the entire steering column and the ESL failed in the locked position, so I had to take out a cutting tool and cutout the ESL top half and rip the rest out myself. Then you reinstall, insert the blue clip-on wire into the emulator, button everything up and you're done. I'm WAY oversimplifying it here, but I had a lot of help from YouTube videos. Check out "MIKEYS VLOGZ" "HOW TO remove and fix the ESL/EIS/ELV MODULE on w204 mercedes Part 1." It's a 30 min detailed video, and the guy does a good job showing the correct angles.
This morning, I turned on my car, and it wouldn't start. I was definitely worried. I tried again and no problems. I called my guy Charlie to see if the EIS was bad, but he told me when he tested it, it had no problems. He does fix EIS as well, but hopefully I don't have to replace that. The removal/install of that piece is a lot easier than the ESL.
Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Schaf
I installed it with some help from my mechanic, since he was not comfortable doing it. I wasn't able to take out the entire steering column and the ESL failed in the locked position, so I had to take out a cutting tool and cutout the ESL top half and rip the rest out myself. Then you reinstall, insert the blue clip-on wire into the emulator, button everything up and you're done. I'm WAY oversimplifying it here, but I had a lot of help from YouTube videos. Check out "MIKEYS VLOGZ" "HOW TO remove and fix the ESL/EIS/ELV MODULE on w204 mercedes Part 1." It's a 30 min detailed video, and the guy does a good job showing the correct angles.
This morning, I turned on my car, and it wouldn't start. I was definitely worried. I tried again and no problems. I called my guy Charlie to see if the EIS was bad, but he told me when he tested it, it had no problems. He does fix EIS as well, but hopefully I don't have to replace that. The removal/install of that piece is a lot easier than the ESL.
Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Schaf
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meazz1 (10-17-2019)
