You probably don't need a new fuel pump. It's most likely just a crack in the cover. I just replaced the one on the kid's car last week: The dark area in the creases pointed to by the arrow below are actually cracks. Replace the cover and the gasket and I'll bet that fixes it.
You probably don't need a new fuel pump. It's most likely just a crack in the cover. I just replaced the one on the kid's car last week: The dark area in the creases pointed to by the arrow below are actually cracks. Replace the cover and the gasket and I'll bet that fixes it.
Thanks for the info. Big help. I'm going to buy one now. At my mileage, pump failure does seem premature...
My MPG has plummeted to 13 MPG. Acceleration sluggish. Gas fumes are strongest above half a tank.
Q. I presume your kid's car have similar symptoms?
No problems with fuel economy, but it would throw an evap error for a minor leak, and smell like fuel when filled over half a tank. I've encountered about a dozen of these cracked liked this. Unlike some other models, this one is just a simple cover that's easily replaced. The cover and seal retail for abut $150, On but you can get them for under $100 from a dealer with an online discount store (like mbpartsdelivered.com). I've worked on some W203, W209 and W211 models where it's actually part of the fuel sender housing itself so that whole unit has to be replaced. And then the plastic nipples on the fuel pump where the sender unit hoses connect usually crack so you end up with spending $500 in parts replacing everything in he fuel tank on those.
No problems with fuel economy, but it would throw an evap error for a minor leak, and smell like fuel when filled over half a tank. I've encountered about a dozen of these cracked liked this. Unlike some other models, this one is just a simple cover that's easily replaced. The cover and seal retail for abut $150, On but you can get them for under $100 from a dealer with an online discount store (like mbpartsdelivered.com). I've worked on some W203, W209 and W211 models where it's actually part of the fuel sender housing itself so that whole unit has to be replaced. And then the plastic nipples on the fuel pump where the sender unit hoses connect usually crack so you end up with spending $500 in parts replacing everything in he fuel tank on those.
I have no CEL and no errors from the basic OBD II scanner.
I do a lot of city driving but I should be getting at least 17 MPG. It sometimes dips to 12.5. I cleaned the MAF and throttle body (some oil residue at bottom).
No change.
The cover 2044700438 you showed me ran $54 from Autohauz shipped.
I am going to buy this OB2 as it's supposedly amazing. Flexx A C250 owner did a YOUTUBE video on it.
If this does not do it then I'll have to go to the dealer. Ugh...
This is really easy and you won't need any special tools. The less fuel in the tank the better - 1/4 or less. Remove the rear seat cushion. Pull up firmly on the front edge of it to snap it out of its clips. then you have to push it backward toward the trunk and and then lift the rear edge to unhook it. With that out the way, you'll see the round access panel. I can't recall if it uses hex bolts of Philps head screws. Remove that and you see the white cover. Note its orientation. Remove the electrical connector and the bolts (or screws) the cover in place. Remove it and also the electrical connector from the underside. The seal has no top/bottom - it's fine either way.
You only need the tank seal if you are just replacing the cover. The other seal would only be disturbed if you removed the fuel pump, which is not necessary just to replace the cracked cover.
You only need the tank seal if you are just replacing the cover. The other seal would only be disturbed if you removed the fuel pump, which is not necessary just to replace the cracked cover.
A little confused. What did you use to remove the locking ring (black in photo)?
Ah, yes, you have the "California Emissions" version. AS Gammas stated, us a screwdriver or other suitable tool in one of the slots and tap it tangentially.
Ah, yes, you have the "California Emissions" version. AS Gammas stated, us a screwdriver or other suitable tool in one of the slots and tap it tangentially.
Had a mobile mechanic come out just in case something should go wrong.
There was no lock ring that required a special tool. Just bolts.
We took out the cover which was black.
He cleaned it but could not see any signs of cracks.
Seal showed no signs of cracks either. Reseated the seal.
No problems with fuel economy, but it would throw an evap error for a minor leak, and smell like fuel when filled over half a tank. I've encountered about a dozen of these cracked liked this. Unlike some other models, this one is just a simple cover that's easily replaced. The cover and seal retail for abut $150, On but you can get them for under $100 from a dealer with an online discount store (like mbpartsdelivered.com). I've worked on some W203, W209 and W211 models where it's actually part of the fuel sender housing itself so that whole unit has to be replaced. And then the plastic nipples on the fuel pump where the sender unit hoses connect usually crack so you end up with spending $500 in parts replacing everything in he fuel tank on those.
Have you replaced the fuel filter? Pelican claims you have to disconnect the fuel pump hoses. Is that to prevent breaking if the other side pulls on it?
The "strainer" is a tiny one about half inch long screwed right into the inlet of the pump itself. A new pump should have one attached,. You can buy this strainer separately from the dealer. its purpose is to protect the pump itself not the fuel injectors. The main fuel filter protects the injectors, and In my personal opinion to prevdnt expensive repair bills shold be changed about every 30,000 miles on older cars due to the contaminants and rust in the gas tank. Many mechanics only want to change the main fuel filter every 60,000 miles, which in my opinion is foolish to wait that long on older cars.
The "strainer" is a tiny one about half inch long screwed right into the inlet of the pump itself. A new pump should have one attached,. You can buy this strainer separately from the dealer. its purpose is to protect the pump itself not the fuel injectors. The main fuel filter protects the injectors, and In my personal opinion to prevdnt expensive repair bills shold be changed about every 30,000 miles on older cars due to the contaminants and rust in the gas tank. Many mechanics only want to change the main fuel filter every 60,000 miles, which in my opinion is foolish to wait that long on older cars.
The owner's manual states 150,000 miles which seems high to me.
I made a mistake in my previous comment. I had somehow thought I was on the 129 500 sl forum . I'm new so I need to be more careful.
I don't know much about a 2009 C350.
But I do know that 150,000 miles is way too long before changing a fuel filter.
For a new Mercedes I can see 60,000 miles. But for an older Mercedes withe either over 100,000 miles on the car or a car over 20 yeas old I feel strongly that one should change the main fuel filter (at a $50 cost) every 30,000 miles in order to protect the fuel injection system from needing a $3,000 repair and more importantly to keep your car running right. A small price to pay for "protection" of your entire expensive fuel injection system and a good running car.
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