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Brief overview: its a 2011 c300 4 matic with 3.0 v6. Car is on 4 floor jacks and I need to take motor out. The rear main seal is presumably leaking, its not comming from above and has 113,000 miles. Im replacing oil pan because as others have done I broke the housing on driver side removing cv shaft (lesson learned) so the r.m.s. is purchased along with 11 1 time use bolts and mb rtv. Where is the best place to unbolt trans? I know some say drop the motor and unassembled sub frame but this has to come out top side. If anyone knows where service manuals for this job would be would be helpful. My expertise on mb is minimal but overall mechanic knowledge is good. Tools I have but the info on making sure I get this out and fix then installed correctly. Any and all help greatly appreciated!
Has the (breather) that essentially acts as the PCV been replaced? If it is leaking, it will send oil down the back of the block.
the mb dealer informed me of this and I watched a video about the butterfly flaps in the intake which get plugged w oil but this isn't the problem.. either its the rms or the gasket. What i need is to know where to disassemble the trans from engine. Im gonna try and leave the front gear box in place until after engine removal.
the mb dealer informed me of this and I watched a video about the butterfly flaps in the intake which get plugged w oil but this isn't the problem.. either its the rms or the gasket. What i need is to know where to disassemble the trans from engine. Im gonna try and leave the front gear box in place until after engine removal.
yeah I checked inside hose for oil and found none. Only a little residual dirt around the peice at the back of the passenger side head. Ill change it anyway because i dont know if it was done or when
I also broke the oil pan trying to replace drivers front CV axle. Sure wish I would have seen the C clip holding intermediate shaft in. Terrible design having the machined joint exposed to the road elements to get rust welded....
I also broke the oil pan trying to replace drivers front CV axle. Sure wish I would have seen the C clip holding intermediate shaft in. Terrible design having the machined joint exposed to the road elements to get rust welded....
I live in FL and this normally wouldn't happen. They should of had some kind of anti-seize on the shaft. So how did you remove the cv joint from shaft after you broke the housing? I'm planing on putting in a vise and using mapp gas to heat the joint and expand the ring. Then use the slide hammer. I'm sure the mercedes techs know not to do what we did. I will be pulling the motor soon. It does come out topside and you leave the gear box attached until after its out. I could use some torque specs and someone mentioned the WIS. Don't know where this is though.
I live in FL and this normally wouldn't happen. They should of had some kind of anti-seize on the shaft. So how did you remove the cv joint from shaft after you broke the housing? I'm planing on putting in a vise and using mapp gas to heat the joint and expand the ring. Then use the slide hammer. I'm sure the mercedes techs know not to do what we did. I will be pulling the motor soon. It does come out topside and you leave the gear box attached until after its out. I could use some torque specs and someone mentioned the WIS. Don't know where this is though.
If you are removing parts that will not be re-used, an air chisel wreaks marvelous wonders of destruction on rusted or seized parts. It's one of the most effective tools I have. Nothing can withstand it. =)
I live in FL and this normally wouldn't happen. They should of had some kind of anti-seize on the shaft. So how did you remove the cv joint from shaft after you broke the housing? I'm planing on putting in a vise and using mapp gas to heat the joint and expand the ring. Then use the slide hammer. I'm sure the mercedes techs know not to do what we did.
As the boots were split I fixed the problem by ordering a new intermediate shaft and CV axle from ebay for about $110 each. Also a new upper oil pan. Now to drop the lower cradle....
As far as the WIS goes, got mine from emanualonline for about $25
As the boots were split I fixed the problem by ordering a new intermediate shaft and CV axle from ebay for about $110 each. Also a new upper oil pan. Now to drop the lower cradle....
As far as the WIS goes, got mine from emanualonline for about $25
The MB dealer wanted $1250 ea for CV joint. I found GKN for $518 ea which is the company which supplies Audi and pretty sure MB. So it sounds like your removing the engine bottom side so it sounds if you have a lift. Appreciate the info on WIS too. I also got a crankcase vent valve since I had oil leaking down I dropped exhaust to make room to remove bolts from tq converter and get to bell housing
I also had oil leaking from rear on both sides. It was running down the block under both cylinder heads. I replaced the vacuum pump O rings, breather assembly and the cam plugs. Seems to have stopped those. Thought for a moment maybe rear main seal but no evidence of that once the oil pan was off.
Unfortunately I do not have a lift. Car is on 4 jack stands, engine lifted with cherry picker still attached to transmission and front axle carrier lowered out with floor jack.
I did find a new 2 post lift for $2k though. Its now on the list...
I also had oil leaking from rear on both sides. It was running down the block under both cylinder heads. I replaced the vacuum pump O rings, breather assembly and the cam plugs. Seems to have stopped those. Thought for a moment maybe rear main seal but no evidence of that once the oil pan was off.
Unfortunately I do not have a lift. Car is on 4 jack stands, engine lifted with cherry picker still attached to transmission and front axle carrier lowered out with floor jack.
I did find a new 2 post lift for $2k though. Its now on the list...
we are very much on the same page here. I don't have the height for a lift but harbor freight has a drive on scissor floor lift for $1600. My latest trouble is disconnecting the front drive shaft from the front differential gear box. I've taken both front cv out already and I need the shaft to turn to get to the bolts but that shaft is not moving. I tried neutral but no luck. I'm thinking the front shaft should of come unbolted before the cv joints removal. I've been looking for any benz techs locally who want to make side cash but no luck. I guess everyone's doing well enough lol.
I was able to get the front drive shaft to turn ny putting in neutral and grabing the rear drive shaft and turning which makes the front shaft turn. Back wheels need to be off ground. Still the heat shield around u joint at gear box needs to be removed and that isn't fun as 2 of 3 bolts are very difficult to get to. Part of the right front exhaust needs to come out, from head to resonator. I finally enlisted the help of a neighbor who is a european mechanic.
I have wrapped up the work on the front end and moved on to installing adjustable camber bushings in the rear suspension. I've p
ut about 100 miles on the car after oil pan replacement and complete transmission service. Pleasantly surprised I have no leaks from engine, transmission or steering rack
This is passanger bank under exhaust manifold where black and head mate. I saw this wirey blue green ****. Looks like the antifreeze. Im thinking this engine has a blown head I clean off the crap to get a better look. The gasket (or sealant, whichever mb uses) looks ripped away slightly. Driver bank in back has this peice with oil all over it. I already bought the plastic breather for the other side
Not sure about the head, I'm definitely no expert. However, your last pic is of the vacuum pump for your brakes. Mine was also leaking oil down the back of the head. I bought this:
When putting the new cv joints in the driver side is being uncooperative. The cv has a female which needs to be pushed over the dredded half shaft. I've got it most the way there but would like to compare to another c300 to see how much more I need to push the cv on. My issue is the cv has stopped and this is as far as I can get it on still about an 1/8 inch of spline showing. I saw another pic. No spline showing so how to get it on further? Torch maybe? Expand the cv housing and push i guess.
Last edited by Flmrmercedes; 12-12-2020 at 10:43 PM.
Reason: Update
Can you post more and better focused and lit photos? Does the end of the shaft have a circlip? Typically the shafts engage until they click. Have you been meticulous about all parts being clean? A light oil film also helps with assembly.
When putting the new cv joints in the driver side is being uncooperative. The cv has a female which needs to be pushed over the dredded half shaft. I've got it most the way there but would like to compare to another c300 to see how much more I need to push the cv on. My issue is the cv has stopped and this is as far as I can get it on still about an 1/8 inch of spline showing. I saw another pic. No spline showing so how to get it on further? Torch maybe? Expand the cv housing and push i guess.
The OEM intermediate shaft and CV on the right. Aftermarket from Ebay on the left. Aftermarket pic is as far as I could get them to seat with the clip installed. It is seated and doesn't easily come off. About 1500 miles on it and no issues..
10-27-2020, 12:40 PM
