Have a few codes on my 2013 c250 sedan with 84k miles and trying to sort them out and/or narrow them down. The one that I don't understand is the rough road hardware code. But I'm also not sure if a single problem could be related and throwing a chain effect of codes.

Car goes into limp mode if you accelerate too much. Shakes, stutters, runs rough until you restart the car and then it's fine again. HPFP, fuel filter, software update, boost leak, n75 valve is what I've read as possible issues. Replaced the spark plugs with new ngk 94716 gapped @.32. There was a little bit of oil on the First and Third coil/plug. Cleaned real well before reinstalling. No change to anything.

The abs light and traction control lights are on, which I'm assuming is atleast the RF wheel speed sensor, since it's the only Pending code. I have one of those on order and will replace it and see what happens with that.

The rough road hardware not present is what baffles me and I cannot seem to find much information on it. I've read it could be a few different things but that it could also make it seem like a different problem then it really is, so I'm not sure about that one.

ECU codes...
P030400. Cylinder 4 misfire. Pending
P031700. Rough road hardware not present. Pending/stored
P000277. Quantity control valve. Stored
C003100. LF wheel sensor failure. Stored
C003164. LF wheel sensor implausible signal. Stored
C003400. RF wheel sensor failure. Current/Pending/Stored
C003464. RF wheel sensor implausible signal. Cur/Pen/Stor
C003A00. RR wheel sensor failure. Stored

Trans codes...
D40A. No can message received from control unit n47

Abs codes...
C111000. Component L6/2 has electric fault. RF axle rpm sensor.
C327100. Implausible values of rpm sensors at front axle.
C326600. Consequential fault

I know it's a lot there and I'm hoping / assuming one thing may just be causing a chain reaction of codes. But does anybody have any insight to these codes, problems issues?

 

You could have an unusual cascade of codes many triggered by the wheel sensor failure detection (the chassis “C” codes, maybe the “D” code). Failing wheel speed sensors and broken wires, broken or corroded reluctor rings can cause faults. Since so many of them are pending/stored, I suggest clearing them and then seeing which come back.

The P000277 could be related to the limp mode on acceleration. That could be related to the high pressure fuel pump. But the symptom is also associated with the boost pressure sensor and the waste gate.

 

I'll have the new speed sensor on in a couple days and I'll clear the codes and see what comes back.

Where should I check with the other codes? I have a nice snap on scanner so that I can watch data live. If it was boost or turbo related, would it through a boost code?

 

Just clear the codes. The stored only codes may go away and not return. Then drive around for a number of miles and check to see what comes back. With luck the list will be shorter and point out the failure.

The HPFP triggers P0002 codes when it begins to fail. Over boost will trigger a code, and a failing waste gate will also.

But aging M271.860 bypass valves may not close rapidly enough after hard acceleration to restore boost for a few seconds. If the transmission is also in comfort mode, that and the gear selection can make the pedal feel “dead.” That doesn’t set a DTC because the ECU hasn’t figured out anything is wrong and the car recovers in 10 seconds or so.

 

Thank you for the reply. All of the codes listed is after clearing the codes and going for a drive. There are only a couple "current" and "pending" codes, many stores codes though. Although I've scanned other vehicles that have stored codes that will not clear, without any issues.

The car will act up and go into limp mode before I can even run through the RPMs. Almost within 2 seconds of wide open throttle it happens. How often does a bypass valve or waste gate go bad? What is the factory boost level? I've read 5-6psi on one post and 15-16psi on another post. I'll hook up my scanner and do livee data and see if it over boosts or not.

 

Welp put a new front right speed sensor on and it did not fix the problem. I cleared the codes again, went for a drive, and still the same codes.

 

I'm wondering if the abs module may be messed up. Is there a good test for that?

 

Boost runs as high as 1 atm, so 14-15 psi. I think if your symptoms were boost related, you would have boost codes, but looking at live data could rule that out completely.
Power loss that quickly after WOT sounds like the HPFP can’t maintain fuel rail pressure at high demand. You can monitor the fuel rail pressure sensor real time to verify.

 

It could be the reluctor ring. I’ve heard that the ones on the W204 aren’t prone to failure, but since the sensor didn’t fix the problem, maybe??? On the RWD models the front wheel ring is on the hub. I have never replaced any of mine at 105k miles.
Possible. But I would expect an instrument panel warning that ABS & traction control were not available along with codes. I would expect a Snap-On scanner to be able to read ABS codes — on my Autel the system to be scanned has to be selected.

 

Yeah I figured I may get some type of boost code if it was boost related also but I also wasn't sure if maybe a boost leak, split turbo hose or intercooler hose would cause the same problem.

My initial thought was HPFP because of the reason you mentioned. I also read that with abs codes, that the car could be thrown into limp mode. Since I have both codes, I need to rule one out first. What is the fuel pressure supposed to be so I can check live data for it?

I've never had to change a abs ring either, on any vehicle over the years of working on cars. Slim chance but still an option. I did clean out the speed sensor hole before installing the new sensor.

The dash says abs and traction control inoperable plus the 3 lights, plus the CEL. Snap on scanner does read individual systems, I broke down the codes per system in my original post. The abs section was just for front right speed sensor. Now the trans codes was for no communication from the abs module.

 

I’m sure there is a spec on the HPFP output pressure, but I don’t know it offhand. My scanner reports 14k-15k mbar at idle and slightly above. I get the occasional (twice in the last year) P0002 code so my HPFP might be weak. It runs fine and will cruise at 80 mph all day. This is not our long run hauler, so I’ll work on it when I get my shop back up and running this summer. I have seen posts on this forum that it should be as high as 55k mbar.

I haven’t seen the ABS system put a W204 into limp mode, but I suppose it could. The brake by wire SBS brake system on early W211 would do that on a loss of system pressure. The fact that you also show a transmission code may be an indication.

The last time I replaced a wheel speed sensor on was a 1979 VW Dasher and that was only used in the cruise control — no ABS, etc.

The reluctor rings are inexpensive, but that’s a lot of effort for a “maybe.” Your symptoms sound like something at the wheel. Without the car here to “try things” I’m at a kind of dead end.

 

Atleast that gives me a general idea of what HPFP pressure should be. The car will drive fine and smooth until you try to give it 50% or more throttle.

Yeah I can't remember if it was w204 specific that I read abs codes could throw car into limp mode . The trans codes I'm wondering if it's on the trans side or abs side since the code is "No can message received from abs module", I would think abs side, whether at the module or the wheels.

If you had the car, what are some things you would try? That way I could give them a try.

When I scanned the car again last night, I used my basic scanner and my torque pro app scanner. (Did not have the snap on with me. The basic scanner gave me active codes for left front wheel sensor, right front wheel sensor, right rear wheel sensor, and fuel volume regulator control (p0002). For pending codes it gave me right front wheel sensor and cylinder 4 misfire. Now in parentheses behind all the wheel sensor codes it said (sub fault). Now sure what that is supposed to mean.

On the torque pro app, it showed active codes as left front wheel sensor and right rear wheel sensor and p0002. It has pending codes for front right wheel sensor and cylinder 4 misfire.

Kind of weird there is nothing for the left rear wheel sensor. All the sensors have been replaced with OEM MB sensors. That's what made me start thinking about the abs module because one of the problem for a failing module was saying faulty wheel sensor codes.

 

Checked and set tire pressure recommended on the door sill plate. Checked battery and alternator and both are good. Did the steering wheel reset and no difference. Went for multiple drives around the neighborhood and nothing.

The only thing new is I touched the abs module wires at the connector and now the EBD light is on as well.

 

I believe you might be on the right path with the ABS module. It’s unlikely that three of the four ABS sensors would fail at the same time. Either the module or a common wiring point (can connection?).

 

Where would a common connection be? What/where is can connection? Lol

It would be nice if I could just send the module out to be repaired instead of a wiring issue. It does worry me that I touched the module wiring and it threw the EBD light too.

 

I’m not a fan of the parts cannon, but could you temporarily swap out the ABS module with one from a buddies vehicle or even an eBay part? That would definitely isolate the module as the source of the problem. I don’t know the locations of the CAN wiring but I would double check the connectors around the ABS module and maybe spray them with Electro Clean just to make sure everything is clean.

 

I don't know anyone else with the same car and I know the modules are coded to each vehicle so i would assume I would not know because the lights would still be on.

 

ABS modules are not part of the DAS, so I don’t think they are vehicle coded, unless you know otherwise.

 

At least from what I have read, the VIN needs to be coded into the module.

 

Just wanted to give a little update, atleast on my abs codes situation...

After wiggling wires at the abs module connector and the ebd light going on and off, I figure there had to be a wiring problem. It would also make sense as to why all the speed sensors were new OEM and still had codes for 3 out of 4 of them. So I bought another connector and spliced that into the harness.

The easiest way to do that was to drop the driver side of the bumper, remove driver headlight, remove driver wheel, and remove driver wheel liner. I did all the work from the wheel well area, soldering and heat shrink tubing 20 wires. Got done and put everything back together and checked the car out and the abs and traction control inoperable were still lit up on the dash, but the ebd was gone. Cleared the codes and went for a drive and no change. Scanned the car again and it was saying right rear (rear passenger) sensor was a problem.

So it's seemed I fixed one main issue but there was still some underlying issue. So I went back to the right rear to inspect the sensor and wiring. What I wound up finding and figuring out is that where the wheel speed sensor and brake pad sensor plug into, the clear bulkhead is actually just something that holds the speed sensor harness plug and the brake pad sensor plug on the car side.

When I looked into the clear bulkhead, I noticed the inside for the speed sensor was not sticking as far out as the inside for brake pad sensor. So I popped the rear door and took off the piece of trim next to the seat back and I could see the clear bulkhead the just holding the wiring harness plugs for the sensors. The speed sensor harness was popped out of the clear bulkhead, meaning it was not and could not make a proper connection when plugging the speed sensor into it. So I pushed the car harness back into place in the bulkhead connector, I plugged the speed sensor back in. I went and started the car and all abs light and traction control lights are now off and good. So atleast the abs mystery is solved and I've found additional reasons why these cars can throw the codes. I only read 1 post out of many where a guy couldn't find the problem and the dealer master tech found the pins at the module needed rewiring. I never saw a post about the chance of the car harness popping out of the clear bulkhead connector.