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The cam marks do not line up when crank is on TDC and the camshaft of the right jumps when cranking which throws the mark ahead. I have new chain and new camshafts but don’t want to remove anything since everything is not in sync. Advise appreciated.
The cam marks do not line up when crank is on TDC and the camshaft of the right jumps when cranking which throws the mark ahead. I have new chain and new camshafts but don’t want to remove anything since everything is not in sync. Advise appreciated.
It looks like the exhaust camshaft adjuster has failed. When this happens, the line on the adjuster does not match up with the lines on the camshaft. There are three camshaft marks that should all line up; the arrow on the camshaft housing, the line on the camshaft itself, and the line on the camshaft adjuster. When the camshaft adjuster fails, you know the timing is correct when the crankshaft is at TDC, and the first two camshaft marks line up. See the red highlighted area on the picture. This was AFTER I replaced the failed camshaft adjusters, so all three marks are aligned. From your last picture, it looks as if you might still have one or more of the spark plugs installed. The engine is much, much easier to turn over if you remove all the plugs.
It's difficult to see the camshaft marks in the video. Could you set the crankshaft at TDC for #1 cylinder and then take a couple of close-up pictures, one above the intake camshaft and one above the exhaust camshaft? Then we can see all the marks and determine if the chain has skipped or it's just the camshaft adjusters that are bad. Note that the crankshaft passes TDC twice for each camshaft revolution.
8809312[/url]]It's difficult to see the camshaft marks in the video. Could you set the crankshaft at TDC for #1 cylinder and then take a couple of close-up pictures, one above the intake camshaft and one above the exhaust camshaft? Then we can see all the marks and determine if the chain has skipped or it's just the camshaft adjusters that are bad. Note that the crankshaft passes TDC twice for each camshaft revolution.
Shoot that looks like the timing is out. Maybe jumped time or a stretched chain? Let me look up the process to reset the timing on the WIS, and I'll post the instructions.
Here are the WIS instructions for camshaft alignment. Once the engine is at TDC and you have removed the chain, you can use the hold-down tool to align the camshafts correctly. I had to use a wrench on the end of the camshaft to rotate the intake camshaft so that the hold-down tool would fit snuggly over both camshafts. The end of the camshafts has two flattened sides which you hold with a wrench while tightening the retaining bolt for the camshaft adjusters. At the time, I attributed this to the HPFP putting pressure on the intake camshaft and partially turning it. Hope this helps.
You will need a thin wall wrench to turn the camshaft. Rather than buy an expensive one-time-use wrench, buy a set of inexpensive fan clutch wrenches for BMW from eBay.
8810186[/url]]You will need a thin wall wrench to turn the camshaft. Rather than buy an expensive one-time-use wrench, buy a set of inexpensive fan clutch wrenches for BMW from eBay.
Thank you for the advice, I manage to get the marks lined up and removed the camshafts. I plan to put in a new chain, but also unsure about how to go about changing the guides out. Need to take a bit more look at things and see if they need to be changed.
Glad you were able to line up the camshafts. I'm sure that's a great relief (it was in my case). I researched changing out the guide rails. One can be removed with the engine disassembly as it stands. The other one can only be removed if the lower timing chain cover is removed and that is a timing consuming task. I seem to remember one YT video that indicated 4 hrs for camshaft adjuster & chain swap out, and 12-13 hrs for guide rail replacement. These were a professional mechanic's estimate. I didn't see any excessive wear on the guide rails.
07-03-2023, 11:16 AM
