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I have a 2013 Mercedes C250. The mileage is about 45K. It was running super fine with no issues at all. I had a business trip for about 2 months. When I came back, I tried to start it but it couldn't. Actually it cranks, starts and runs for 2-3 seconds then dies. I scanned the codes and got a bunch of codes there!! Here are the codes:
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Well, the P0300s are all misfires for cylinders 1-4. P2300 are ignition coil codes and would cause the P0300 codes. So, what is B15CE? It's a telematics error. Not sure if somehow that would disable the ignition from working.
We don't know where you are or what your environment is like, but leaving the car sit for two months could very likely have cause the electrical consumer battery to discharge or drain below acceptable thresholds, though I would think a code would show for that. The other thing is to check wiring going to your coils for evidence of rodent damage. Two months is plenty of time for mice to set up house in your engine bay. I recently removed my back seat and fuel pump covers for another problem I'm having and found peanut shells sitting on top of the fuel pump (right side) and fuel filter (left side) along with other debris. I have no idea how anything could squeeze into that space, especially with a whole peanut shell.
Personally, if it was my car, and I am not suggesting you do this, I would clear the codes and see if any come back.
Well, the P0300s are all misfires for cylinders 1-4. P2300 are ignition coil codes and would cause the P0300 codes. So, what is B15CE? It's a telematics error. Not sure if somehow that would disable the ignition from working.
We don't know where you are or what your environment is like, but leaving the car sit for two months could very likely have cause the electrical consumer battery to discharge or drain below acceptable thresholds, though I would think a code would show for that. The other thing is to check wiring going to your coils for evidence of rodent damage. Two months is plenty of time for mice to set up house in your engine bay. I recently removed my back seat and fuel pump covers for another problem I'm having and found peanut shells sitting on top of the fuel pump (right side) and fuel filter (left side) along with other debris. I have no idea how anything could squeeze into that space, especially with a whole peanut shell.
Personally, if it was my car, and I am not suggesting you do this, I would clear the codes and see if any come back.
Thank you for your reply, I replaced the battery, Charged the battery in full and cleared all the codes twice. As soon as you start the car, all those codes come back again. As I mentioned the car starts, runs for about 2-3 seconds and dies. During this very short time, the engine runs very rough. I haven't checked the fuel pump, I'm going to check it out as well. I couldn't find any damage on the coils wiring.
Thank you for your reply. Is there any relay, module or controller for ignition coils? There should be should be something that controls all of them. Actually, it's super weird that all of them go bad at the same time.
I checked all wirings, fuses, relays and everything was fine. 4 new ignition coils are already installed and the spark plugs are in acceptable condition. I kept trying to start it for several time "10 or more attempts", then the car started. First it was running super rough and had misfiring. I turned it off and on several times, then the engine started running smooth, no shaking/misfiring at all. I drove it for about 10 minutes and everything was perfect. I left it overnight to see if it starts again the next morning or not. It didn't, again I disconnected/connected the ignition coils to check if they have signals and checked other connectors ... and tried again for several times to start it. Finally after 5-10 minutes started again, rough in the beginning and then getting better . I turned it off again and left it overnight. Yesterday morning I started twice, same thing. Then I pressed and hold the gas pedal for about 30 seconds and then started again. The car started with no misfiring at all!!!! I checked the fuel pressure and injectors while it was running, all good. When it starts, everything works well. The problem is starting when it's cold. The car starts, runs for a second and dies. The last trick was surprisingly caused the car start with no misfiring at all. Today I'm going to test it again to see is pressing and holding the pedal really works or not. Also I'm going to clean the MAF and throttle body to see if makes any deferent or not. Any suggestion / Help based on the lates update please?
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
You need to do a compression test on all the cylinders. It is a pain, but if you keep having problems, you want to make sure you don't have a cracked head or bad rings.
What happens is that if you do not have enough compression in the cylinder, that cylinder won't ignite the fuel with a spark. When you said you had to try a bunch of times before it would start, that reminded me of an Audi A4 I had with a cracked head. When it was cold, the crack affected compression enough that the car would not start. But if I tried extended cranks 4 or 5 times, it would catch. That's because the head heated up enough to close the crack. But let it cool down and you had to do the same thing over again. Eventually, I had to replace the head. Hope that is not the problem in your case. But, you should check just to eliminate that being the problem.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
EDIT: Sorry, wrong engine. Shoulda not relied on search. Anyway, there are some reman heads out of Germany, but a little pricey. Still, if the problem is with the head, whatcha gonna do?
I finally finished the compression test. Here is the result: #1 175, #2, 174, #3 175, #4 175. To me the engine compression is perfect. The cylinder head can't be defective. As I mentioned above, this car is very low mileage 'Only 42K" and it's in really good shape. I was thinking about Crank and Camshaft position sensors. But, When the car starts, it runs smooth with no misfiring, shaking or smoking. Whatever it is, just creates problem during starting the car. I'm not sure what part should I check next, but I keep trying to figure it out.
I finally finished the compression test. Here is the result: #1 175, #2, 174, #3 175, #4 175. To me the engine compression is perfect. The cylinder head can't be defective. As I mentioned above, this car is very low mileage 'Only 42K" and it's in really good shape. I was thinking about Crank and Camshaft position sensors. But, When the car starts, it runs smooth with no misfiring, shaking or smoking. Whatever it is, just creates problem during starting the car. I'm not sure what part should I check next, but I keep trying to figure it out.
Your compression numbers are perfect and, more importantly, consistent across all four cylinders. I think you might be onto something with the camshaft or crankshaft sensors. I hate to just throw parts at a problem, but I would buy a couple of new sensors. The camshaft sensor is inexpensive and simple to swap out. The crankshaft sensor, on the other hand, is a little more costly and more of a challenge to change. This wouldn't explain the rough start and the smooth running after the engine does start, but it would remove a potential intermittent culprit.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
I would find some way to check the fuel line pressure. The stumbling sounds like there may be air in the fuel line. Not sure how that would even happen. But remember, the engine is a simple device. You need air, fuel, compression, and a spark at the right moment to make the engine run. I wonder, as well, if there is not a vacuum or air leak that closes once the engine warms up.
I would find some way to check the fuel line pressure. The stumbling sounds like there may be air in the fuel line. Not sure how that would even happen. But remember, the engine is a simple device. You need air, fuel, compression, and a spark at the right moment to make the engine run. I wonder, as well, if there is not a vacuum or air leak that closes once the engine warms up.
Fuel might also be a likely candidate. I don't think a vacuum or air leak would cause a no-start, but air in the fuel certainly would.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Is there a check valve in the fuel line to keep fuel from returning to the tank? Maybe the fuel pump is not working correctly. Usually, when opening the driver's door, the pump should activate and pressurize the fuel line (or at least it did on my Audi TT).
When you try to start the car, use the key (instead of the Keyless Go push-button) and turn it to the ON position (second click). Wait a few seconds and then continue to try to start the engine. Is it still hard to start?
I changed both fuel pumps, still doing the same thing. Needs 10 or more times cranking. Then starts rough, after 3-5 times turning on and off, starts running perfect. It's good for about 10-30 min. After an hours or so, doing the same thing.
Have you checked the purge valve? That just popped into my head when I was thinking about when mine went the car was very difficult to start, had to push the gas pedal all the way down. Should be easy to check, should start making a ticking noise after the cars been running for a few minutes, or can feel it moving in there.
Anything further regarding this issue? I'm having the same exact symptoms on a 2013 c250 I put a used engine in. Car sat for an unknown amount of time. Won't start until after 10-15 times cranking, runs rough once it starts, cylinder 3 and 4 not firing. Let it idle like that until operating temperature. Restart it and it runs perfect. Does the same thing all over again once it cools.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by atwad84
Anything further regarding this issue? I'm having the same exact symptoms on a 2013 c250 I put a used engine in. Car sat for an unknown amount of time. Won't start until after 10-15 times cranking, runs rough once it starts, cylinder 3 and 4 not firing. Let it idle like that until operating temperature. Restart it and it runs perfect. Does the same thing all over again once it cools.
Thanks in advance
For a cylinder to fire, you need gas, air, spark, and COMPRESSION. If you don't have good compression, the mixture won't fully ignite. You need to do a compression test on cylinders 3 & 4. If you have a cracked head or leaky gasket, the car won't start at first, but after several attempts and the aluminum head expands, you will get enough compression to start. That's why when the engine is warm, the car starts up more easily. You can also do a block test to check for exhaust gases in the coolant reservoir.
I changed both fuel pumps, still doing the same thing. Needs 10 or more times cranking. Then starts rough, after 3-5 times turning on and off, starts running perfect. It's good for about 10-30 min. After an hours or so, doing the same thing.
Hello I'm having the exact same issue. Did you ever resolve your problem. Thanks
09-29-2023, 11:41 PM
