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I have a 2010 C300, and for a few years now, the engine light has come on when it gets cold outside. Additionally, the car doesn't turn on easily after refueling. I have to press my foot on the gas pedal and hold it there for about a minute or two for the engine to stay on. After that, it starts without a problem. The engine light and all associated issues disappear when spring arrives. The error codes that appear are p2422, p0174, and p0171. From everything that I've read, it seems the issue could likely be the charcoal canister. Could there be any other possibilities, and why does the error disappear when it gets warm outside? It only seems to resurface when the weather cools from September onward.
My second question is: where can I find a brand new charcoal canister? The ones I've found online all appear to be used.
I once had a check engine light code P2422. After filling up at the gas station it would not start unless pushing the gas pedal to the floor. i researched most common problems for that code and noticed one cause if faulty purge valve. This is easy to check, after the car is running for a few minutes just listen to it, if its working it will make a continuous ticking noise. Mine wasn't so I replaced it. I actually bought a used Mercedes purge valve on eBay for something like $15 shipped and its still working 2yrs later. I personally would only replace it with a Mercedes brand, not aftermarket. The part# will be stamped right on the part, i have a 2010 W204 M272 and the # was 0004708893.
I listened to the car and I hear some clicking noise. Here's a video of the engine running if you could please listen to see if you hear clicking sound (https://www.veed.io/view/dc22a1d7-71...f3?panel=share) but also I ran the EVAP diagnostic and everything passed except these 3 things. Could it be still the purge value sensor or a dirty MAF?
Last edited by Logan_Volcan; Dec 8, 2023 at 05:55 PM.
I hear a fast ticking, im not sure if it is a little too fast and its not coming from the purge valve. I can only open the file in audio on my computer so not sure what the video shows.
Put your finger on the purge valve and feel for it opening and closing. Should be able to just reach it without removing anything. When I was researching faulty purge valves it is said the valve can still operate but the seal could be worn which causes it to leak. To test it you apply voltage and listen for the tick, if that passes then hook up a vacuum gauge and see it it holds pressure in the closed position.
Id be lying if I said I knew what any of those readings from your scanner meant. I just went off the codes the scanner showed. I remember I left a review for the purge valve I bought so just looked to find it. left it on July 13 2022 and it seems I did have 2 codes for lean bank 1 and 2 also. Back then I only had an inexpensive basic obd reader so tried replacing the purge valve and it worked.
Thank you for taking the time to checking out the file. I put my fingers on the purge valve, and its pretty fast. I would say about three ticks per second. I read that I could remove the hose that goes to the charcoal canister and after a few minutes, if you put your finger on the valve you should not have a vacuum feeling.
i’m going to order a purge valve on eBay but how come it's not possible to find a new one anywhere online? Or am I not looking at right places?
Originally Posted by TimC300
I hear a fast ticking, im not sure if it is a little too fast and its not coming from the purge valve. I can only open the file in audio on my computer so not sure what the video shows.
Put your finger on the purge valve and feel for it opening and closing. Should be able to just reach it without removing anything. When I was researching faulty purge valves it is said the valve can still operate but the seal could be worn which causes it to leak. To test it you apply voltage and listen for the tick, if that passes then hook up a vacuum gauge and see it it holds pressure in the closed position.
Id be lying if I said I knew what any of those readings from your scanner meant. I just went off the codes the scanner showed. I remember I left a review for the purge valve I bought so just looked to find it. left it on July 13 2022 and it seems I did have 2 codes for lean bank 1 and 2 also. Back then I only had an inexpensive basic obd reader so tried replacing the purge valve and it worked.
Well since the purge valve seems to be functioning I'm not sure id replace it.
When I look for parts I usually look on FCP or eEuroparts. FCP has the lifetime replacement which is great for things like brakes and expensive parts that may fail again, eEuro usually has lower prices. Easy to look for parts just make an account and enter your vehicle info.
Sold out at eEuro but you may need other parts later.
should I try to unplug it and try the suction test? But it does seem to be working just really fast clicking. I'm going to also clean the MAF just in case because it's a cheap thing to do. Is the only thing left the charcoal canister?
By the way you are the best. You are really helping me out a lot here, can't thank you enough.
I did some more searching around, basically just reading thru threads where people had the P2422 code and what appeared to solve the issue and the majority seem to say replacing the purge valve fixed the issue.
One even said they used there scanner to specifically test the purge vale, it seemed to open and close, made the ticking sound, and they still replaced the purge valve and it solved it. Could be functioning but not fully closing/opening. Could also be functioning intermittently, working now but gets stuck later and throws the code. Could be gummed up from years of use. Im just speculating.
When I replaced mine I don't think I even checked to see if it was working, making the ticking sound, I just replaced it hoping it was the issue. I say this because the replacement purge valve is very loud, I can hear it sitting in the drivers seat and don't remember ever hearing it before. Its a used purge valve from another Mercedes model, listing was for a clk maybe. It looks like an earlier production, looks slightly different than the one that was in there but same part#.
If it were me I would go ahead and replace the purge valve. First I would inspect all the hoses going to/from it to make sure nothings cracked. I would only replace it with an oem Mercedes, ive seen too many negative reviews for aftermarket brand purge valves where they didnt work and the person ended up buying a Mercedes one in the end. I took a risk and bought used for $15. I would rather buy used Mercedes parts than new aftermarket parts. New is obviously the way to go, but im cheap.
If that doesn't solve the check engine light then move up to the more expensive fixes.
Agreed. I'd have reasonable confidence it's the vent valve given the facts above. This code (P2422) also exists in BMW world, and 99% of those threads get resolved after replacing the vent valve. As to why it gets stuck while some go 300k miles, I have no clue.
man you all are the best. I call mercedes dealership here to see how much is a purge valve from them and it was $162. So I just ordered a new one from FCP Europe and they said it was going to take 8 days to get here.
I was going to get a used one on ebay but I thought let's be safe since I'm a rookie and don't know how to test things out.
Will keep you all updated once I change out the part.
I got my purge valve yesterday but i have not idea how anyone removes the pipes that goes to the purge valve. I also found these and I don't know if they were there or if I caused them but they could be the issue maybe to the leakage error. So my question is, how do i remove these? I tried to even put a flat head screw driver but I couldn't. I don't have a pry tool with a hook on it so I got to go buy one of those as well. but this is very tight on there. It won't budge what so ever.
Also anyways to replace these for cheap?
you can see they are some cracks here. you can see some cracks on this as well right by the cramp. when pushed in the cracks are not visible but i guess that doesn't mean they are not there. I don't know honestly
That worn hose very well could be the issue. if after inspecting all the hoses and you just need that one it may be best/cheaper to just get it at the dealer, plus no shipping cost.. I looked up the price at the dealer in my area so should be the same around you.
Are you taling about removing the clamps? I just use regular pliars, squeeze the tabs together and takes some wiggling but eventually it unclips. Ive had mine off a few times so mine looks worn, but took a photo of where to press. Reinstall the same way.
From your photo it looks like that elbow is part# 1704761526. Can double check with the parts diagram above in post #3. The other side is part# 1200780181.
If the clamp gives you trouble you may want to use a very small screwdriver, or anything small with a point, stick it in there and try to pry the top part up while squeezing.
Thank you. in those images, it just says that it’s a hose. Are all hoses, the same or this is specifically for the hoses that go to the purge valve?
the ones that don’t have a clamp on it just really tight and I can’t get it to come out. I guess when I get the new hose I could just rip them out? One of them has a clamp and the other one doesn’t. should I clamp both after installing them with the new hose?
Yes both elbows should have two clamps on them. Thats why I was wondering if you were talking about having a hard time removing the clamps since i notuiced your first photo it doesnt have clamps, thought you removed them. Mine has two clamps on each elbow. Cant really go by the description in the diagram, sometimes they dont even make sense with what the part is.
As far as the elbow being hard to pull off that just always happens with hoses, it shrunk down and now stuck on.. I was recently working on my snowblower carburetor and the fuel hose was really stuck on. best way is to use a flat tip screwdriver and stick it between the purge valve and the hose, try and push the hose off. Once you break the seal basically the hose will slide off. If you grab the hose and try to pull it off it will just get tighter, kinda like those chinese finger trap toys.
And yes I would install clamps on each end.
Those elbows are specific because the purge valve has different diameter intake and outtake tubes.
Looking at this photo stick a flat tip screwdriver at the red arrows, then use the screwdriver to push the hoses off (after clamps are removed).. May have to work the hose off a little one side at a time.
When you go to put the new elbows on be very carefull with the lines they are attached to. They feel like a hard plastic, probably to handle vacuum. I would probably slice the elbows off with a new sharp razor blade. Make light cuts in the elbow parallel with the lines, basically splitting the elbows so you can peel them off the lines. Carefull not to cut into the lines. I was feeling my lines and they feel a little brittle, I can imagine crushing or cracking them if squeezed to hard.
holy hell the dealership near me is charging $18 and $25 for these parts. OMG what in the world.
I found another location that did a price match of the online you provided so I'll get them tomorrow morning. I'll pick them up and see how it goes. Fingers crossed
Last edited by Logan_Volcan; Dec 18, 2023 at 02:32 PM.
The closest Mercedes dealer near me does not have an online parts ordering feature so ill look on the Mercedes of Boston which is the next closest one to me. For small parts like nuts and bolts I usually find them the best way to go. Ill print out the page with the price and bring it to my local dealer with me and so far they give me the same price. Mercedes must be giving the parts to all the dealers for the same price, so that dealer must be playing games with there markups.
I also stumbled upon an online Mercedes parts seller IDparts and when I looked at there location they happen to be the next town over and offer free pickup at the warehouse. Its not even a store, just pay online and they leave the order on a table when you walk in the warehouse. May be worth searching around your area to see who sells Mercedes parts, to have options. FCP Euro is the next state over so I receive my orders the next day even with free economy shipping.
I came across this chart while searching around for causes of P2422. Ill try and find the thread where I found it. The person was talking about using his scanner to perform function tests of the evap system. If I was understanding correctly the scanner would show the odd looking codes listed in the left hand column, and those codes coincide with the faulty part. I have no idea how he did it, or how those codes even showed up.
I found the post: Post# 9 is where he said he used the scanner and came up with that code?
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