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Steering locked up (or at least lost power steering)
As I was getting off the freeway felt steering wheel hard to turn. Put all my strength into turning the steering wheel and thankfully managed to get off the gentle ramp. If it was a 270 I would have certainly been in a ditch and likely hospitalized by now.
Soon the dashboard turned red and a battery indicator came on. What is this due to? Later I got the message that ABS and ESP may be unavailable.
Other symptoms that recently happened, not sure if it related or a just coincidence - As I was driving along the freeway the engine light came on and started flashing. As I started moving to the slow lanes the light abruptly went off. I drove the car for a few days since then and the engine light never came on. Today I also got the low oil indicator though I had filled oil just 10 days ago. A cursory look underneath does not indicate any oil leaks. Also noticed that engine makes a low whiny sound sometimes that sounds like the window was not closed tight. Initially it happened when the engine light came on but at that time I ignored the sound as thought it was just the window or a strong breeze. But yesterday I noticed it even at low speeds when everything is quiet. The sound randomly comes on, continue for about a minute and then goes away. It is low enough that you can easily miss it if you are in traffic. Only in an otherwise quiet environment can you hear it. But once you hear it, you cannot miss it.
As I was getting off the freeway felt steering wheel hard to turn. Put all my strength into turning the steering wheel and thankfully managed to get off the gentle ramp. If it was a 270 I would have certainly been in a ditch and likely hospitalized by now.
Soon the dashboard turned red and a battery indicator came on. What is this due to? Later I got the message that ABS and ESP may be unavailable.
Other symptoms that recently happened, not sure if it related or a just coincidence - As I was driving along the freeway the engine light came on and started flashing. As I started moving to the slow lanes the light abruptly went off. I drove the car for a few days since then and the engine light never came on. Today I also got the low oil indicator though I had filled oil just 10 days ago. A cursory look underneath does not indicate any oil leaks. Also noticed that engine makes a low whiny sound sometimes that sounds like the window was not closed tight. Initially it happened when the engine light came on but at that time I ignored the sound as thought it was just the window or a strong breeze. But yesterday I noticed it even at low speeds when everything is quiet. The sound randomly comes on, continue for about a minute and then goes away. It is low enough that you can easily miss it if you are in traffic. Only in an otherwise quiet environment can you hear it. But once you hear it, you cannot miss it.
All your symptoms point to a faulty pulley, which you continued to drive on, which probably seized causing the belt to jump its tracks.
Its good that you went to pull over when the check engine light started flashing. Solid light is ok to drive on, flashing means something may happen and turn the car off.
Read through your Operators manual that came with the car, it has alot of useful info. Especially what the warning lights mean.
With the low oil light you say you checked "underneath", did you check the oil level with the dipstick? The proper level is in the middle of the Min and Max markings, mine has a dot right in the middle I go off of. To check make sure the car is on level ground. If the engine is at operating temp the car has to be stationary at least 5 minutes. If the engine is cold the car must be stationary for at least 30 minutes.
The red battery warning means the battery is no longer charging. Together with your power steering issue I think its belt related.
Awhile ago my engine was making some noises like you describe. With the engine running I watched the drive belt and noticed the belt tensioner was bouncing and the upper ribbed idler pulley was screeching, with the belt off it sounded like a skateboard wheel when spun by hand. I replaced the tensioner, ribbed idler pully and the belt to resolve the issue. The proper belt size for your specific car is listed in the back of the Operators Manual, along with fluid types, spark plugs etc.
Along with visual inspection of the belt and pulleys a scan of the car with a Mercedes specific OBD scanner as stated above would be very helpful.
Thank you all for your suggestions. I opened the hood and confirmed that the tensioner belt is off the pulley. Feel thankful to have survived this. Also planning to pre-emptively replace the alternator. At the mileage of the car it seems like a useful thing to do. Do you all think that is a good idea?
Thank you all for your suggestions. I opened the hood and confirmed that the tensioner belt is off the pulley.
Feel thankful to have survived this.
Also planning to pre-emptively replace the alternator. At the mileage of the car it seems like a useful thing to do.
Do you all think that is a good idea?
A new $600 ALT is a cherry on the cake AFTER you are done testing what killed your belt.
Check all accessories pulleys for free play and noise: A/C, Steering pump, Water pump, Alternator...
Replace a complete belt kit at once: a good Continental serpentine, an OEM tensioner and new idler pulleys. Stay away from rebranded China junk parts!!
Test the car voltage supply with a OBDII scanner or a DVM.
While you have the hood opened double check the coolant, and oil level.
Mine has over 150,000 miles and im always working on it replacing something, I would not replace the alternator unless there's something wrong. Even then I would probably replace the voltage regulator, the brushes are the wear parts. But if you want to replace the alternator it certainly would be good and probably never have to worry about it ever again. I would go with Bosch from FCP for the lifetime warranty. Its only around $240 + refundable $100 core charge when you send them your old one.
Double check the part #s, im just listing what fits mine and yours may be different.
I went with a Continental belt, my Operators manual says the belt is 2401mm so I got the 2404mm and it works great. The Mercedes tensioner is made by Gates if you need a replacement, and the idler pulleys I went with INA. eEuroparts and FCP sell the kit that has a Febi brand tensioner that is actually a Gates.
02-09-2024, 08:07 PM
