c300 rough start when cold
#1
Member
Thread Starter
c300 rough start when cold
is that normal that it starts kinda rough when cold but starts normal when warm?
its not a rod knock(i have experience with that) its just rough like when you wake up at the wrong time in the morning and you cant figure out how to operate your own legs to go to bathroom kind of rough.
alot of shaking.
but again no codes
its not a rod knock(i have experience with that) its just rough like when you wake up at the wrong time in the morning and you cant figure out how to operate your own legs to go to bathroom kind of rough.
alot of shaking.
but again no codes
#2
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2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
What scanner do you use to scan for codes?
#3
Member
Thread Starter
shop scanner.
there is no engine specific codes
i replaced manifold already and did a basic tuna
do i have to program the new manifold in any way after i replace it?(the flaps were broken on the old one)
it fumbles rather hard for about 3-5 seconds on initial vold start but is fine when warmed up start
only codes are electrical for rear fuse box and some kind of 30g circuit which i still cant find what it is
there is no engine specific codes
i replaced manifold already and did a basic tuna
do i have to program the new manifold in any way after i replace it?(the flaps were broken on the old one)
it fumbles rather hard for about 3-5 seconds on initial vold start but is fine when warmed up start
only codes are electrical for rear fuse box and some kind of 30g circuit which i still cant find what it is
#4
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2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
shop scanner.
there is no engine specific codes
i replaced manifold already and did a basic tuna
do i have to program the new manifold in any way after i replace it?(the flaps were broken on the old one)
it fumbles rather hard for about 3-5 seconds on initial vold start but is fine when warmed up start
only codes are electrical for rear fuse box and some kind of 30g circuit which i still cant find what it is
there is no engine specific codes
i replaced manifold already and did a basic tuna
do i have to program the new manifold in any way after i replace it?(the flaps were broken on the old one)
it fumbles rather hard for about 3-5 seconds on initial vold start but is fine when warmed up start
only codes are electrical for rear fuse box and some kind of 30g circuit which i still cant find what it is
You many need to do some sort of "teach in" for the new manifold.
#6
Super Member
is that normal that it starts kinda rough when cold but starts normal when warm?
its not a rod knock(i have experience with that) its just rough like when you wake up at the wrong time in the morning and you cant figure out how to operate your own legs to go to bathroom kind of rough.
alot of shaking.
but again no codes
its not a rod knock(i have experience with that) its just rough like when you wake up at the wrong time in the morning and you cant figure out how to operate your own legs to go to bathroom kind of rough.
alot of shaking.
but again no codes
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
What engine, M272?
Im guessing, initial rough running then it evens out may be a vacuum line issue somewhere. Especially if you recently replaced the intake manifold.
Im guessing, initial rough running then it evens out may be a vacuum line issue somewhere. Especially if you recently replaced the intake manifold.
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#9
Super Member
194k with no history of mounts being changed, the mount arm is probably already in direct contact with mount body, because internal isolation material has collapsed. You can check this from the engine bay with a proper inspection mirror and a good flashlight.
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Its more of an engine fumble rather than car shaking
i know the mounts are shot and i can feel it when driving/shifting etc.
this is more of an engine having a kind of rude awakening like your first night in bootcamp and then it evens out and runs smoother.
its also same rpm that im having the rpm fluctuation when i drive.
it was there before i replaced the manifold
vacuum leak would be present all the time also.
i know the mounts are shot and i can feel it when driving/shifting etc.
this is more of an engine having a kind of rude awakening like your first night in bootcamp and then it evens out and runs smoother.
its also same rpm that im having the rpm fluctuation when i drive.
it was there before i replaced the manifold
vacuum leak would be present all the time also.
#11
Member
Thread Starter
there seems to be 2 different sets of mounts and they both say awd
which one is actual awd lol
one set with aluminum tranny mount and the above motor mounts
the other one with pancake tranny mount and what looks like a glazed donut for engine mounts
which one is actual awd lol
one set with aluminum tranny mount and the above motor mounts
the other one with pancake tranny mount and what looks like a glazed donut for engine mounts
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