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722.964 Transmission- How quick does fluid get to temp?
I have a rather simple question but I do not currently have my car to check.
I have to R&R a rusty transmission pan so obviously im replacing the fluid and filter. I'm pretty sure I have all the steps down but im wondering how quickly the fluid will get to temp in order to check for proper level. i've read thru many how-to's but still wondering.
Once everything is buttoned up and ready for the fluid i'll pump in 6 liters. Then...
- Start engine and allow trans fluid to get to 45 c/ 113 f.
- Turn off engine.
- Next step is to have engine running while pumping in additional fluid- Run thru P-R-N-D several times- at 45 c/113 f remove fill adapter and set fluid level.
*HOW QUICKLY WILL THE TEMP RISE, will I be running around trying to rush, or is it rather slow? I'm just trying to plan things out in my head to get ready. I remember reading where someone went over temp and was waiting forever for it to lower.
Might as well add some photos of everything I have. New pan, gasket, filter, bolts, torque converter plug/gasket, new sprags since a few look corroded, adapter, new 1 gallon pump, shutoff valve, 12 quarts Shell atf134, even have a replacement bracket for the O2 sensor harness thats rusting. Also have some new hardware for the plastic undertray panels as needed.
I have just the regular transmission, not the A89 option. Confirmed by looking up my vin, also looking at pan in the car.
I do not plan on lowering the transmission to pre-fill the transfer case.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Is that the upgraded transmission oil pan? It doesn't look like it. If not, I highly recommend you go that route because it uses a much improved oil filter. To answer your question, it takes a little while to get to 45°C. You should be able to monitor it with your Foxwell scanner. You will have time to do what you need to. Just don't go to lunch.
If I remember correctly, it took about 10 minutes to come to temperature. I used that time to pour the old transmission fluid into a couple of containers to take to AutoZone for recycling.
Great, thanks. I just wasnt sure if its one of those things where you have to be quick or else things go sideways. I'm already nervous about working under the car nevermind with the engine running. Now im wondering how much of a pain its going to be trying to find the torque converter drain plug doing it myself, what just rotate the engine by hand a little then go under the car and check?
I bought the pan from FCP awhile ago so probably cant return it for the A89 pan. Plus I figured if it was really necessary then MB would have made the change mandatory, like they did for the earliest pan swap? I did get a Filtran brand filter which I believe is the OE Mercedes filter. Mercedes pan, Elring gasket and bolts, Mercedes overflow tube, and the Shell atf134 which I read is good fluid. I found it for a good price on Amazon and see its even cheaper now, $42 for 6 quarts.
I was a bit surprised to see made in China when I received the filter. I researched Filtran and they do have factories all around the world.
There is a rubber plug on the bottom of the transmission bell housing. Remove the plug, put the transmission in neutral, then rotate the engine/transmission from the crankshaft pulley until you see the torque converter drain plug. You can shine a flashlight into the hole. You need to have all four wheels off the ground and the vehicle level to be able to check the transmission fluid level accurately. I would put the car on four jack stands to provide the safest environment to crawl under the car with the engine running.
Do the wheels have to be fully off the ground? I planned on driving the car up on my wooden ramps, jack up the front and rear a little more and put another wood plank or two under the wheels then lower it down. I just feel much safer that way. Plus I have a gravel drive so jackstands arent that stable, in my opinion.
Here's what I typically do if i have to go under the car and the wheels dont have to come off, like when I worked on the exhaust.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by TimC300
I bought the pan from FCP awhile ago so probably cant return it for the A89 pan...
...I was a bit surprised to see made in China when I received the filter. I researched Filtran and they do have factories all around the world.
Actually, you can return the pan. I did when I got a kit for my 2004 SL500 and never used it because I traded the car shortly thereafter. It was several years later I went through my garage and returned all the stuff I was going to use but never did. FCP will give a store credit, but they will take it back.
Filtran is supposed to be good quality, but I use FCP as my litmus test and they do not offer that brand. All of their non-Genuine filters are out of Taiwan and only the Mercedes Genuine filter is out of Germany. Honestly, for the price and time and trouble it is going to be to change the filter, I would definitely get the Mercedes filter (as Ken on MercedesSource says).
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by cvx5832
First pan upgrade was MB-approved. This pan upgrade being mentioned is an FCP invention. I don't think I've ever seen anything official from Mercedes.
Probably you won't. As much as I like Mercedes, they do have to protect shareholder value. I'm sure there is a warehouse full of the older filter that they need to exhaust first.
A couple things Mercedes does that makes logical thinkers scratch their heads is some coolant hoses can only be acquired assembled for $100 when a good $7 clam works as well, if not better than the original part. And not being able to get a $10 vacuum check valve without buying the complete $300 vacuum pump. Makes me think they do this whenever there is a part normally installed by the dealer versus DIYers. Logistically, one part number is easier to track and supply than 4 or 5 part numbers for an assembled item.
I guess I can see an argument for swapping the pan and filter and also against swapping them.
For - The A89 pan/filter offers more fluid capacity and better filtration.
Against - The A89 filter is not made for the atf134 red fluid. Isnt the red fluid thicker? Also isnt the fluid capacity not that much, maybe 1/4-1/2 quart more? And Mercedes does not appear to recommend this swap.
I tried searching for the difference between the Combimedia vs Smartmedia filters, im guessing the Smartmedia filter has an additional sheet of filter material, since its label Smartmediatriple filter.
I first came across the idea that Filtran made the Mercedes filters when it was mentioned on IDParts, so i searched for photos of Mercedes filters and sure enough they say Filtran, they actually say IBD Filtran made in Germany, at least the ones im finding. They both say Combimedia, so should be the same filter material. My thinking is this is like buying the Mann air filters, should be the same thing.
Do the wheels have to be fully off the ground? I planned on driving the car up on my wooden ramps, jack up the front and rear a little more and put another wood plank or two under the wheels then lower it down. I just feel much safer that way. Plus I have a gravel drive so jackstands arent that stable, in my opinion.
No, you don't really have to have the wheels off the ground. Looking at your setup, this would work, but I think you need a little more height to slip underneath and still have some working room. You have my sympathies. I remember the bad old days of being a shadetree mechanic with gravel rash on my back.
Im doing the transmission fluid right now. I only pulled the pan and filter, did not drain the torque converter. I just didnt want to, plus its taking me forever as it is.
I got around 4-1/2 quarts out, maybe a little more. I poured the old fluid in an old 5 quart oil; jug and its not exactly to the top.
Does this make sense?
I just started pumping the new fluid in. I got 3 quarts in, im about to start another 3 quarts. Then start the car and get it up to temp.
I should have asked this earlier, do i have an oil cooler? I do see metal lines going to the front of the car into the radiator. I ask because if i do it says to bring the fluid up to 90 celsius. If not it says bring it to 45 C.
Yes there's a trans cooler inside the radiator. So it will take time to get the coolant up to temp before you will see much temp in the trans. It will need to idle for 10-15 min or so to get the temps up then you will be fine.
Right now im stuck waiting. I started the car again and pumped in 2 more quarts, started going thru the gears and the temps went up faster than I expected, got to 48 C so had to shut it down. And its getting dark out.
I was surprised at how things looked. The filter looked very dirty, a black dirty film on it. The magnets had alot of black stuff on them. Last record I have of it being done is at 80,000 miles, now its at 156,000 miles. But it shows it was done at a Mercedes dealer, but the filter that was in there had no markings on it at all. And it was in the pan when I dropped it, not sure if thats normal.
Seems to be running fine at the moment, no odd noises.
Tim, what is your full model designation? And transmission designation?
The instructions are confusing, at least to me. it mentions bringing it to 90 C, but then in the same box says something about only if trans cooler was repaired, or something like that.
I pumped in 8 quarts total. I did not touch the torque converter. Im now at the phase of starting it again, go thru the gears, then set the level. Hopefully.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
The change interval for your tranny should be at 39,000 miles. Not sure why the filter would fall out of the valve block. Did the dealer replace the pan when they changed the fluid and filter last? If they happened to grab the deeper pan without using the newer filter, that would do it after 76,000 miles.
I bought the car from a small car dealer that also has a shop. Im guessing they may have done the filter last and didnt record the work. They had the car for a year or two, I was told the son drove it. I have no complaints with the car, tranmsission seemed fine to me. I really just did it because the pan is so rusted, surprised it lasted this long.
Trying to install the new filter i thought something was wrong, like it was the wrong one. Then I pushed harder and it snapped up into place nicely and stayed there.
Without touching the TC I got maybe 4-1/2 quarts out.
Black stuff on the filter.
Dirty pan.
Least it looks like the old fluid was red. When I started draining it the smell reminded me of a farm or barn. But then the new fluid has somewhat of a similar smell, to me anyways. I also had a heart attack when only a small amount came out, then realized I still had to knock the plastic tube off.
No name at all on the old filter. I'll have to search around to see if i can identify it.
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