I got the idea to try to install some type of rust preventer under the car before winter. I never tried any and seeing what has worked for people. I came across a Mercedes wax, its in a 13oz spray can with a straw. There are several part #'s and one is 000986320109.
I noticed there does appear to be some type of hard wax coating under my car in some areas like on the control arms. Then I bought a set of used spring control arms and there is also a hard wax type coating on them. I always wondered what it was. Pretty sure it came like that from the factory, it wasnt applied afterwards. I came across a used spring control arm on ebay that looks really coated in the stuff as an example:
I came across Waxoil on Amazon that seems to be something that may be worth it. It claims it kills existing rust, that would be fantastic if so. Im not looking to make a project out of it, just go under and clean everything with a garden hose then spray away.
I got the idea to try to install some type of rust preventer under the car before winter. I never tried any and seeing what has worked for people. I came across a Mercedes wax, its in a 13oz spray can with a straw. There are several part #'s and one is 000986320109.
I noticed there does appear to be some type of hard wax coating under my car in some areas like on the control arms. Then I bought a set of used spring control arms and there is also a hard wax type coating on them. I always wondered what it was. Pretty sure it came like that from the factory, it wasnt applied afterwards. I came across a used spring control arm on ebay that looks really coated in the stuff as an example:
I came across Waxoil on Amazon that seems to be something that may be worth it. It claims it kills existing rust, that would be fantastic if so. Im not looking to make a project out of it, just go under and clean everything with a garden hose then spray away.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimC300
Came across some interesting info on some Mercedes chemical products.
Seems the wax I was looking at is for the engine bay.
Interesting, I don't hear this topic talked often here and for MB, it is usually on Japanese cars. I wonder if this treatment really os necessary as a result.
As evidenced by the subframe thread, any metal that has not been properly treated can benefit from a coating. Brake lines included. The most important thing in choosing one of these coatings is that it is not rubberized or a hard coating. Do If you want to use something like fluid film that is thin and can creep into all the crevices, or surface shield that is slightly thicker. If you don’t want anything that leaves any sort of wet residue you’re looking for something like Cosmolene or Amsoil metalprotectant. In a state with salt, protection of any vehicle is a must. German cars have been historically factory treated better but it’s not 100% perfect, and debris from the road, eventually sand blasts the factory wax drill point where it is no longer doing its job well.
As evidenced by the subframe thread, any metal that has not been properly treated can benefit from a coating. Brake lines included. The most important thing in choosing one of these coatings is that it is not rubberized or a hard coating. Do If you want to use something like fluid film that is thin and can creep into all the crevices, or surface shield that is slightly thicker. If you don’t want anything that leaves any sort of wet residue you’re looking for something like Cosmolene or Amsoil metalprotectant. In a state with salt, protection of any vehicle is a must. German cars have been historically factory treated better but it’s not 100% perfect, and debris from the road, eventually sand blasts the factory wax drill point where it is no longer doing its job well.
I want something to spray on and keep the road salt from rusting things out even more. last winter I went to replace the rear shocks and was amazed at the amount of salt stuck to things. The transmission pan was severely rusted and I had to replace it. Even the sprags were corroded. I also live right on the coast and my car is literally parked 10' from the ocean.
I ordered a can of Corrosion X HD to try out, should be here tomorrow. It says it should really stick to everything and hopefully not wash off easily. Directions say it can be applied when things are still wet, so i'll remove the wheels and hose everything down then apply it. I'll start with all the visually rusty stuff, see how far a can gets me. theres an auto parts store near me that carries Corrosion X XD for a little cheaper I can always pick up if I need more.
I want something to spray on and keep the road salt from rusting things out even more. last winter I went to replace the rear shocks and was amazed at the amount of salt stuck to things. The transmission pan was severely rusted and I had to replace it. Even the sprags were corroded. I also live right on the coast and my car is literally parked 10' from the ocean.
I ordered a can of Corrosion X HD to try out, should be here tomorrow. It says it should really stick to everything and hopefully not wash off easily. Directions say it can be applied when things are still wet, so i'll remove the wheels and hose everything down then apply it. I'll start with all the visually rusty stuff, see how far a can gets me. theres an auto parts store near me that carries Corrosion X XD for a little cheaper I can always pick up if I need more.
please head my advice on also using fluid film because the benefit to it being so thin is that it can creep better than anything on the market. There also hose extensions for the can that can help you get into every accessible crevice in the car without drilling. Blaster shield is a second choice along with fluid film as it lasts longer. Anything that dries to a hard wax has limited reach. Treated with 270,000 miles 2006 Untreated with 280,000 miles. 2000
I was at Lowes and they have Fluid Film for $10 so picked up a can.
I guess my plan is to hit any rusted parts, springs and the axles with a good coat of the Corrosion X HD and then hit everything else with the Fluid Film. I noticed the rear of the car has the most rusted areas, the front isnt that bad at all really, except the sway bar. The reason i started thinking about using a rust inhibitor is I had replaced the front sway bar links 2yrs ago and recently had to replace one, while under there i noticed they were rusting already, the threaded part and the nuts. The links themselves along with the control arms look fine, arent they aluminum? I think its a good idea to spray the brake lines also so may remove the long plastic panel on the drivers side. I really want to spray the transmission pan, probably pull the undertrays and spray the bottom of the oil pan and front diff.
Heres the rear passenger side brake line before I replaced it recently. I got really lucky and replaced it just in time, I think with me just touching the line to remove it caused it to crack and start leaking fluid.
Line was so rusted I couldnt unscrew the fitting and had to cut it and break it loose with vice grips.
New nickel copper line.
The spring control arms are very rusted so I picked up a set of used to install when I get around to it. I think the rear axles will need to be replaced sooner than later.
At this point I dont plan on spraying anything inside cavities. I'd have to research more to see if its safe, im worried about blocking any drainage holes and trapping any water inside instead of being able to drain. I did come across something about preservation wax with restoring cars.
Sprayed one can of the Corrosion X HD and one can of the Fluid Film.
It seems that I got more coverage with the Fluid Film. I started with the Corrosion X by spraying the transmission pan then removed the rear passenger wheel and started spraying and emptied the can. I did spray everything inside my snowblower too. No issues with either spray cans.
Everything looks bubbly. I'll check it again to see if things even or level out. Its in the high 50's F right now and I put the cans in a bucket of the hottest water that came out from the kitchen faucet.
As of right now I would go with the Fluid Film from now on. Depending on how it lasts thru the winter. I still want to do the front so will get another can of the Fluid Film later today. I want everything to dry.
Below sprayed with the Fluid Film:
Some rust at the rear bumper under the car:
Started with the Corrosion X under the car, alot of bubbles. Hope it evens out.
I noticed some holes in the subframe, used the Fluid Film straw and sprayed a little inside.
Corrosion X HD on the transmission pan and mount area. This will be good to keep an eye on since the pan was brand new and i replaced it only a few months ago.
Man, am I glad you started this thread! I've had a can of Fluid Film collecting dust in the garage since last Fall that I never got around to spraying. Something else mechanical or electrical always grabs my attention/gets in the way, then before I know it old man winter has already reared his ugly head.
Very curious as to how the Fluid Film is once dry. I think I remember reading it says in a somewhat greasy state "permanently" and does need to be re applied yearly? I suppose that depends on a few factors.
Last winter ONR & either a power washer, regular garden hose, or even just water from a spray bottle got me through paired with the fact if I had contact with salt, I would do one of the aforementioned before going to sleep that night. The weirdo in his garage crawling around with spray bottles hahaha. As you said, the front doesn't seem to take even half the beating the rear does. Those undertrays definitely do their job.
All of these products that are thin that come out of the can do bubble off the solvent. It will creep and get thin and even and then once it gets covered in dust will get a satin finish. It’s always best to do this in warm weather. Warm weather also gets rid of the smell more quickly. Fluid film is a waxy product so yes, the underside will have a film on everything that is dirty when working on the car, but I think I’ve mentioned previously that a mechanic with soft hands will complain regardless of whether the car is rusty or covered in fluid film, and the fluid film is better for the owner of the car so just find the right mechanic that doesn’t complain about the job they’ve signed up for. Right now, Home Depot has cans of fluid film for $5.50 And it’s not easily seen because it’s listed in their clearance aisles. The first time I did my truck which is a full box frame truck took me about six cans to do everything inside and out. Every year thereafter, I use 2 to 3 cans for touchup.. I really can’t express this enough that an ounce of prevention keeps these cars in top condition for many many many years. The only warning would be to say not to get excessive amounts of the fluid film on any rubber seals that are not built to be exposed to oil such as headlight or body seals. I’ve personally never had an issue but vehicles with cheap seals may see some swelling after a long exposure. For small bolts or areas in the engine, spray some of the fluid film and use a small paintbrush or sponge to paint the film on to metal in tight areas
I didnt even think about it until recently and now the cold weather is here. I usually enjoy working on the car but not in the cold. I'm sure its coming out alot more messier since im just reaching under spraying blindly. With the Fluid Film id go to spray and a gust of wind would pick up and blow it all over me.
Based on my limited experience so far i can say the CorrosionX HD is overboard and probably not the best product for this application. It is expensive, its really thick so doesnt really flow/creep so a can doesnt go along way. Sticking with CorrosionX I think there XD would be much better, flow better and have more coverage per can. I would like to pick up a can for the engine.
Fluid Film so far seems good, not expensive, sprays easy and has very good coverage. Will see how it stands up come spring.
i went back and sprayed all along where the brake lines run on the drivers side, just unscrewed the panel to pull it back and stick the straw in.
It does look like the bubbles are bleeding out in what I sprayed.
my only personal experiential difference is that when using cans, the FF is far superior. Pb does last longer but with yearly applications in wear areas, the work is all the same.
use these extensuons, they are better than the plastic tipped option. Plastic mists better but not in cold weather. Heating cans helps, but helps ff better.
and this type of adapter depending on how the spray tip attaches which can be different between ff and pb. Get a kit that has both male and female adapters. this is only an example.
Cosmoline has a website with an array of products...been around for more than half a century.
Cosmoline has been around since the 1860s.
Fluid film has been around for 80 years. They are different consistencies for different applications. Cosmoline does not creep into cavities like FF. It can be used on exposed surfaces. Waxes also do not repair themselves when scratched. Many cars used to be coated in Cosmoline from the factory as that is the only real way to get it in the frame. This is the waxy substance you see "dripping" out of the holes in old cars. Its a much harder diy application.
I've been researching what each product is specifically made for. Seems Fluid Film is good enough for most areas except where directly exposed to be washed off. I wasnt aware it has been around for along time and what it was originally used for. Fluid Film happens to be $10.48 at the Lowes near me that im always going to so thats why i'll most likely stick with it.
I see they have the Surface Shield for $9.38 at the Home Depot near me, maybe i'll take a trip and get a can to try out.
I think in general I will be using Fluid Film where I would previously use PB-Blaster. Lawn mower, snow blower, locks, everything metal. I was just under the car finally spraying the front end with Fluid Film and even hit the bonnet locks and hinges with it. I jacked up the front end and removed the middle panel under the engine, sprayed everything. left the wheels on so reached up behind and sprayed the shocks, springs, back of the dust shields even the calipers. Fluid Film does spray everywhere, puts out a fine mist that covered me. Can even see a dark outline on the ground after I moved the car back. I even reached around and sprayed down the plastic wheel well liners just for fun. I still had some left in the can. Was getting dark so didnt take any after photos. Took some general photos under there to look at on the computer and better see how it looks.
I noticed some staining under the drivers side control arm which usually means it is leaking fluid. Or it could just be run off from always spraying silicone lube on the bushings, but im leaning towards leaking bushings. Put that on my list now. I went and got my yearly car inspection sticker yesterday so im good for another year.
I was at Lowes and they have Fluid Film for $10 so picked up a can.
I guess my plan is to hit any rusted parts, springs and the axles with a good coat of the Corrosion X HD and then hit everything else with the Fluid Film. I noticed the rear of the car has the most rusted areas, the front isnt that bad at all really, except the sway bar. The reason i started thinking about using a rust inhibitor is I had replaced the front sway bar links 2yrs ago and recently had to replace one, while under there i noticed they were rusting already, the threaded part and the nuts. The links themselves along with the control arms look fine, arent they aluminum? I think its a good idea to spray the brake lines also so may remove the long plastic panel on the drivers side. I really want to spray the transmission pan, probably pull the undertrays and spray the bottom of the oil pan and front diff.
Heres the rear passenger side brake line before I replaced it recently. I got really lucky and replaced it just in time, I think with me just touching the line to remove it caused it to crack and start leaking fluid.
Line was so rusted I couldnt unscrew the fitting and had to cut it and break it loose with vice grips.
New nickel copper line.
The spring control arms are very rusted so I picked up a set of used to install when I get around to it. I think the rear axles will need to be replaced sooner than later.
At this point I dont plan on spraying anything inside cavities. I'd have to research more to see if its safe, im worried about blocking any drainage holes and trapping any water inside instead of being able to drain. I did come across something about preservation wax with restoring cars.
Fluid film is preferred inside of the cavities over other products due to it being the thinnest. Ive done this for the past five years. You especially want to treat areas where they did not put enough drain holes, or the holes are small because thats where the water sits.
Blaster Surface Shield is great and a bit thicker but the cans are not as great and can leak. Spray anything that you can. Only areas to be aware of are rubber seals that are not normally in contact with oil such as door seals, or headlight seals. Ive personally never had swelling but I also avoid those areas of contact. I apply VERY liberally everywhere else.
I have seen comments where some say the Surface Shield has issues with the cans. I was wondering in general can these products be used then stored on the shelf and used again at a later time, or is it best to use the entire can once started?
I picked up another can of Fluid Film so i figure i'll remove the rear wheels again and see what it looks like and hit any missed spots. Drove in the rain and thru puddles since 1st applying so curious how it looks.
Dont want to jinx myself but I haven't been hearing any squeaks lately where before i was. I think since spraying silicone lube on all the rubber and bushings under the car it helps. The last squeak I had was coming from the plastic bellows on the front shock rubbing. I originally thought it may be a bad bearing up there.
So far the side that I used the CorrosionX HD on seems to have alot of sand stuck to everything. Looks like its thick, like a wax but its oily when touching it.
The metal bumper support that I sprayed looks alot better. Before it just looked all rusty. Wish I had known about this area earlier to spray it.
All the metal nuts holding the metal heat shielding on are rusted and the shielding is cracking around them. These things are $4 each to replace. I tried the plastic nuts used in the wheel well liners since I have a big bag of them and they seem to be holding up.
I have used fluid film in the can a year later after having already started it. Same with PB blaster surface shield. I’ve read that the surface shield has a three year warranty on their cans because of the problem. The bigger problem for me is when using the extension wands with the cans surface shield will only work if it’s very very warm above 120°. It just wasn’t worth it to me to waste most of the product running out of the top of the can. I do have a bulk applicator gun kit (to spray whatever) however I still like the ease of the ff cans. There’s no harm in trying a couple different products to see what works best for you.
I picked up some Surface Shield and sprayed a little in the rear again. Pulled the drivers side wheel well liner to spray the hard brake lines. Seems to spray on smoother and doesnt smell as bad as Fluid Film.
Now im pulling the front wheel well liners to inspect the brake lines and spray a little surface shield. i have a feeling that the drivers rear brake line has been replaced at some point since its in better condition than the passenger. Im trying to locate the sunroof drain, thought it emptied out in the area but cant find it. I can see the drain for below the windshield.
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
