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ESL only triggers at a "bite point" past position 0, not on key insertion
Hi all, 2014 W204 C200 CGI owner here. As of now, my car starts and runs fine, but I'm hoping to try and catch something early.
Usually, inserting my fob into the keyhole immediately triggers the ESL "shnkk" sound at position 0. A few days ago, I noticed the motor now only engages at a small bite point slightly past position 0 (turning the key clockwise), where there's a subtle mechanical click. Same thing on removal. The motor sound itself sounds normal to me, no dullness in volume and no delay in activation sound. It almost feels like the key position 0 has shifted slightly clockwise, so I can't tell if it's a physical thing or a fault with the electrical contact points.
Now this isn't a consistent occurrence, as maybe 1/4 times, the ESL motor will engage at true position 0 the moment I insert the key.
As shown in the attached video below, turning the key ever so slightly past position 0 before position 1, the ESL motor makes its distinctive sound. But towards the end of the video, the motor engages at the original position 0.
I'm hoping this is an issue that I can live with and is nothing serious with the ESL/EIS. Has anyone faced this before or can provide an explanation on what is going on?
I would take the factory ESL out of its mount so it can't lock the steering anymore. Then tie it up out of the way.
It's much easier to get out when it's not in the locked position.
So turn on the key and get it to unlock. Then unplug the ESL while it's unlocked. Then remove and replug in the ESL and tie it out of the way. If you ever do need a emulator then you're in a much better spot.
Doesnt sound like an issue requiring any action to me.
Can clean the key fob and see if there's a difference.
The drive authorization occurs when turning the key to the ON position. If everything is functioning and the cars turning on, starting I wouldnt spend time worrying about it.
I was reading thru the DAS functions. Specifically the as of model year 2009 functions as I cannot find a later version in the 2014 model year manual.
It says that after the key is inserted and recognized the steering lock will unlock. Then it goes on to say that when switched to position B it will lock again. Seems odd to me, not sure if this is a misprint and they mean the ignition switch locks the key in, or if the steering lock does indeed lock again.
In all my years starting the car i never noticed noises coming from the steering column or noises at all though I never specifically listened for a noise or sound. I meant to earlier but totally forgot to.
Still I dont see an issue if the car is turning on and starting fine. Can always scan the car and look for any stored faults having to to do with the steering lock function that it may have picked up.
Obviously do whatever you are comfortable with. Not sure how you would diagnose it further without any other symptoms.
I would take the factory ESL out of its mount so it can't lock the steering anymore. Then tie it up out of the way.
It's much easier to get out when it's not in the locked position.
So turn on the key and get it to unlock. Then unplug the ESL while it's unlocked. Then remove and replug in the ESL and tie it out of the way. If you ever do need a emulator then you're in a much better spot.
Solid advice on this, thanks! I've watched a few videos, and it looks like an absolute pain to get under the steering column to get the ESL out, but I can imagine it'd be even worse if the module was stuck.
Originally Posted by TimC300
I was reading thru the DAS functions. Specifically the as of model year 2009 functions as I cannot find a later version in the 2014 model year manual.
It says that after the key is inserted and recognized the steering lock will unlock. Then it goes on to say that when switched to position B it will lock again. Seems odd to me, not sure if this is a misprint and they mean the ignition switch locks the key in, or if the steering lock does indeed lock again.
In all my years starting the car i never noticed noises coming from the steering column or noises at all though I never specifically listened for a noise or sound. I meant to earlier but totally forgot to.
Still I dont see an issue if the car is turning on and starting fine. Can always scan the car and look for any stored faults having to to do with the steering lock function that it may have picked up.
Obviously do whatever you are comfortable with. Not sure how you would diagnose it further without any other symptoms.
Thank you so much for sharing this, very insightful stuff! I have done your earlier tip of cleaning the key fob to no avail, and no fault codes stored either. I'm guessing this is just a slight mechanical hiccup that I'd have to wait and see if it gets progressively worse. Though, it is a very odd situation indeed since there's absolutely no material online talking about this.
I wanna pin it down to a weak battery(?) as resting voltage sits at around 12.1V after leaving the car overnight, but I highly doubt it has any effect on the key activation position hmm
Solid advice on this, thanks! I've watched a few videos, and it looks like an absolute pain to get under the steering column to get the ESL out, but I can imagine it'd be even worse if the module was stuck.
Thank you so much for sharing this, very insightful stuff! I have done your earlier tip of cleaning the key fob to no avail, and no fault codes stored either. I'm guessing this is just a slight mechanical hiccup that I'd have to wait and see if it gets progressively worse. Though, it is a very odd situation indeed since there's absolutely no material online talking about this.
I wanna pin it down to a weak battery(?) as resting voltage sits at around 12.1V after leaving the car overnight, but I highly doubt it has any effect on the key activation position hmm
Here's a thread I contributed to with how I approached removing the ESL and EIS. Scroll to Sept 18. I took pics as I progressed the job. Hope it helps.
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