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I have a 2016 C250 with the 'burmester' system and I have taken it back to MB. They just lubed (yes, lubed!) the speaker clips in the hope it stops the buzzing. It didn't. I'm taking matters into my own hands.
I've started by taking some some foam tape and stuffing it between the door panel and the panel that has the door speaker grill and seat controls. The buzzing mainly comes from that panel (aluminium or ****ty wood look) or the center speaker. I've cured the center speaker buzz by taking the grill off and taking single side adhesive foam tape and sticking it along the edges on the inside of the speaker grill. Basically, padding the grill,making it more stiff when you clip it back in. Seems to work well. MB lubed the sh*t out of the clips on that speaker.. Grease from hell. Geniuses over there.
Anyway, doing the above has made the buzz or loose panels much better. But, the door panels are the most stubborn. Still get the buzz at some levels. But, 80% better than before. I will take the panel off and stick more foam tap inside between the panels and get some dynamat and stick it near the actual speaker to lesson vibration.
It sucks that you need to do this to a £50k car but it seems MB are incapable or just don't want to fix it.
Mike's suggestion of adding a DSP to the setup to get the frequencies right will fix most the buzz issues. But, it does not remove the fact that the door panels and center speaker grill are poorly designed for speakers or anyone listening to half decent music. So, even with a DSP added and the setup done, the buzzing might still occur due to loose parts. So, adding the DSP and doing something similar to what I did (felt or foam tape) will sort it out.
hey I’m trying to order online felt tape but there’s so many Idk which one to buy. Can you provide a link? There’s some vibration coming now from seat adjustment levers and heat/ventilation buttons. Going to remove the panel again but want to get the felt tape first...
Turn up the volume. Your speakers should buzz and rattle in the first few seconds. (I need to fix mine)
A sample recording with the issue is attached, mostly coming from my rear speakers. I have treble at 10, mid 0, bass 2, Surround on all 4 seats, Fader 0.
Turn up the volume. Your speakers should buzz and rattle in the first few seconds. (I need to fix mine)
A sample recording with the issue is attached, mostly coming from my rear speakers. I have treble at 10, mid 0, bass 2, Surround on all 4 seats, Fader 0.
That sounds to me like sympathetic frequency vibrations causing the speaker grilles to resonate (buzz) at certain specific frequencies. The fix is to dampen the grilles. Usually working some very thin felt material between the grille and the trim will fix it. Better fix is to pull the panel and dampen it from the inside. You can get more material in there without it being visible.
”Areola Grande”. Classic! I heard she was opening for Gladys Night & The Nips.
That sounds to me like sympathetic frequency vibrations causing the speaker grilles to resonate (buzz) at certain specific frequencies. The fix is to dampen the grilles. Usually working some very thin felt material between the grille and the trim will fix it. Better fix is to pull the panel and dampen it from the inside. You can get more material in there without it being visible.
”Areola Grande”. Classic! I heard she was opening for Gladys Night & The Nips.
Thanks! I have a list of W205 TODOS for the spring/summer.
Does anyone know where the single pair wires going to the front doors split to the tweeters and mid? I'm using 4 channels off my amp to drive the doors and would rather not run a new set of wires right now. I'm hoping they split somewhere near the kick panel and not in the doors.
Does anyone know where the single pair wires going to the front doors split to the tweeters and mid? I'm using 4 channels off my amp to drive the doors and would rather not run a new set of wires right now. I'm hoping they split somewhere near the kick panel and not in the doors.
The locations are marked as X35/1 and X35/2 (see red arrowbelow for FR).
Damn! Thats annoying on so many levels. Thank you very much for looking. So I guess people that have installed new component speakers are burying their crossovers in the door
Can anyone hear when they are listening to music on the Burmester that the treble will spike a little then flatten out again? Mine did this with the stock system since it was new. I've completely gutted it, replaced all of the speakers, added a Fix 82, installed 12 channels of amplifiers and I can still hear it. Its either coming from the head unit or the Burmester amp.
It's the LED strip in the door that rattles.................
Hi all,
on 11-22-2018 I posted a message explaining/showing where to put 2 pieces of isolation foam to solve the problem.
Though it reduced the rattle for a couple of weeks, the disaster came back...
During many hours of internet search I bounced upon a message suggesting it could have got something to do with the LED strip in the door.
Today I had a closer look and found out that the LED strip actually isn't glued or anything. It's just kept in it's metal support rail with a little bit of pressure. So little that I'm surprised it doesn't fall out on a bumpy road - but then again the things weighs barely anything.
I pried it down only a couple of millimeters above the back end of the inner door handle (= about in the middle of the LED strip) so that it hangs out of it's rail at that place. As it's only a couple of mm, you hardly notice.
After doing so I tested with different pieces of music that usually trigger the rattling, and also with several calls to my voice mail where the computer voice ALWAYS caused rattling. I coulnd't hear any rattling anymore, at any volume.
You might want to give this a try. It's done in 10 seconds and if it doesn't work for you then you just push up the LED strip so that it snaps into place again.
This is what it now look like. As you never look from that angle, in fact you don't notice at all.
Below the Burmester speaker the LED is fully in it's rail. To the left it hangs out a little bit, and further left it's in its rail again.
Last edited by BenzIsTop; Mar 21, 2019 at 07:27 AM.
One week and about 10 hours of driving/listening later: no buzzing/rattling since.
Seems that after 2+ years I finally got rid of this frustrating issue
One week and about 10 hours of driving/listening later: no buzzing/rattling since.
Seems that after 2+ years I finally got rid of this frustrating issue
I’m not getting exactly what you did with the LED strip? Can you take some close up pics? Thanks man! I’m glad the buzzing is gone for you ...
The tool I used (the pen is just in the picture to give an idea of the size of the tool). It's a tool taken from a laptop repair set, but any "small flat lever" can do e.g. probably also an ice lolly stick or so.
Slide the tool in the rail on the left side of the door handle with the LED strip behind it. Push the tool up gently so that in the next step it can become a lever to push down the LED strip. Originally I had put the tool more to the left as you can see from the LED strip hanging down to the left of the tool in the picture.
Then rotate the tool up gently so that it pushes the LED strip down. This goes _very_ _very_ easy as the strip isn't glued. No force is needed at all. I only did this in one location and the LED strip dropped slightly lower over a distance of about 20cm.
*** Disclaimer: you do this at your own risk. I cannot take any responsibility if something goes wrong or breaks. ***
The tool I used (the pen is just in the picture to give an idea of the size of the tool). It's a tool taken from a laptop repair set, but any "small flat lever" can do e.g. probably also an ice lolly stick or so.
Slide the tool in the rail on the left side of the door handle with the LED strip behind it. Push the tool up gently so that in the next step it can become a lever to push down the LED strip. Originally I had put the tool more to the left as you can see from the LED strip hanging down to the left of the tool in the picture.
Then rotate the tool up gently so that it pushes the LED strip down. This goes _very_ _very_ easy as the strip isn't glued. No force is needed at all. I only did this in one location and the LED strip dropped slightly lower over a distance of about 20cm.
*** Disclaimer: you do this at your own risk. I cannot take any responsibility if something goes wrong or breaks. ***
I would suggest investing in a good plastic trim tool set.
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