Burmester Stereo Issues :(
#126
[QUOTE=david2u;7666184]Did he replace all of the speaker holders? When mine starts to make that noise, it comes from all the speakers in the car.
They replaces only the speaker holders in the back as they were the ones buzzing..
They replaces only the speaker holders in the back as they were the ones buzzing..
#127
MBWorld Fanatic!
I have a 2016 C250 with the 'burmester' system and I have taken it back to MB. They just lubed (yes, lubed!) the speaker clips in the hope it stops the buzzing. It didn't. I'm taking matters into my own hands.
I've started by taking some some foam tape and stuffing it between the door panel and the panel that has the door speaker grill and seat controls. The buzzing mainly comes from that panel (aluminium or ****ty wood look) or the center speaker. I've cured the center speaker buzz by taking the grill off and taking single side adhesive foam tape and sticking it along the edges on the inside of the speaker grill. Basically, padding the grill,making it more stiff when you clip it back in. Seems to work well. MB lubed the sh*t out of the clips on that speaker.. Grease from hell. Geniuses over there.
Anyway, doing the above has made the buzz or loose panels much better. But, the door panels are the most stubborn. Still get the buzz at some levels. But, 80% better than before. I will take the panel off and stick more foam tap inside between the panels and get some dynamat and stick it near the actual speaker to lesson vibration.
It sucks that you need to do this to a £50k car but it seems MB are incapable or just don't want to fix it.
Mike's suggestion of adding a DSP to the setup to get the frequencies right will fix most the buzz issues. But, it does not remove the fact that the door panels and center speaker grill are poorly designed for speakers or anyone listening to half decent music. So, even with a DSP added and the setup done, the buzzing might still occur due to loose parts. So, adding the DSP and doing something similar to what I did (felt or foam tape) will sort it out.
I've started by taking some some foam tape and stuffing it between the door panel and the panel that has the door speaker grill and seat controls. The buzzing mainly comes from that panel (aluminium or ****ty wood look) or the center speaker. I've cured the center speaker buzz by taking the grill off and taking single side adhesive foam tape and sticking it along the edges on the inside of the speaker grill. Basically, padding the grill,making it more stiff when you clip it back in. Seems to work well. MB lubed the sh*t out of the clips on that speaker.. Grease from hell. Geniuses over there.
Anyway, doing the above has made the buzz or loose panels much better. But, the door panels are the most stubborn. Still get the buzz at some levels. But, 80% better than before. I will take the panel off and stick more foam tap inside between the panels and get some dynamat and stick it near the actual speaker to lesson vibration.
It sucks that you need to do this to a £50k car but it seems MB are incapable or just don't want to fix it.
Mike's suggestion of adding a DSP to the setup to get the frequencies right will fix most the buzz issues. But, it does not remove the fact that the door panels and center speaker grill are poorly designed for speakers or anyone listening to half decent music. So, even with a DSP added and the setup done, the buzzing might still occur due to loose parts. So, adding the DSP and doing something similar to what I did (felt or foam tape) will sort it out.
#128
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2015 C300 4Matic Sport
I have the same issue. I had my Tidal set to pop playlist and this song started playing. (Bzzzzzzz!, Bzzzzzzz!, Bzzzzzzzz!)
7 Rings - Areola Grande
Turn up the volume. Your speakers should buzz and rattle in the first few seconds. (I need to fix mine)
A sample recording with the issue is attached, mostly coming from my rear speakers. I have treble at 10, mid 0, bass 2, Surround on all 4 seats, Fader 0.
7 Rings - Areola Grande
Turn up the volume. Your speakers should buzz and rattle in the first few seconds. (I need to fix mine)
A sample recording with the issue is attached, mostly coming from my rear speakers. I have treble at 10, mid 0, bass 2, Surround on all 4 seats, Fader 0.
#129
MBWorld Fanatic!
I have the same issue. I had my Tidal set to pop playlist and this song started playing. (Bzzzzzzz!, Bzzzzzzz!, Bzzzzzzzz!)
7 Rings - Areola Grande
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYh6mYIJG2Y
Turn up the volume. Your speakers should buzz and rattle in the first few seconds. (I need to fix mine)
A sample recording with the issue is attached, mostly coming from my rear speakers. I have treble at 10, mid 0, bass 2, Surround on all 4 seats, Fader 0.
7 Rings - Areola Grande
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYh6mYIJG2Y
Turn up the volume. Your speakers should buzz and rattle in the first few seconds. (I need to fix mine)
A sample recording with the issue is attached, mostly coming from my rear speakers. I have treble at 10, mid 0, bass 2, Surround on all 4 seats, Fader 0.
”Areola Grande”. Classic! I heard she was opening for Gladys Night & The Nips.
The following users liked this post:
benzdude (02-17-2019)
#130
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2015 C300 4Matic Sport
That sounds to me like sympathetic frequency vibrations causing the speaker grilles to resonate (buzz) at certain specific frequencies. The fix is to dampen the grilles. Usually working some very thin felt material between the grille and the trim will fix it. Better fix is to pull the panel and dampen it from the inside. You can get more material in there without it being visible.
”Areola Grande”. Classic! I heard she was opening for Gladys Night & The Nips.
MIke, I thought you quit mbworld.
#131
Junior Member
Does anyone know where the single pair wires going to the front doors split to the tweeters and mid? I'm using 4 channels off my amp to drive the doors and would rather not run a new set of wires right now. I'm hoping they split somewhere near the kick panel and not in the doors.
#132
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2015 C300 4Matic Sport
Does anyone know where the single pair wires going to the front doors split to the tweeters and mid? I'm using 4 channels off my amp to drive the doors and would rather not run a new set of wires right now. I'm hoping they split somewhere near the kick panel and not in the doors.
If you had MB StarTek info access you could look up the exact location. ($60 for 24 hour access). You can save lots of diagrams to pdf in 24 hours.
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/subscribe2.jsp
Sample (Showing Front Right speaker wiring of Mid and Tweeter):
Full burmester wiring diagram (pdf) is attached.
Last edited by benzdude; 02-23-2019 at 12:46 PM.
#134
Junior Member
Damn! Thats annoying on so many levels. Thank you very much for looking. So I guess people that have installed new component speakers are burying their crossovers in the door
#135
Member
Happy to hear that I am not alone
I just bought my 2019 C300C a month ago, I thought that the speakers had already blown with the way that they rattle.
It's driving me crazy!
It's driving me crazy!
#137
Junior Member
Can anyone hear when they are listening to music on the Burmester that the treble will spike a little then flatten out again? Mine did this with the stock system since it was new. I've completely gutted it, replaced all of the speakers, added a Fix 82, installed 12 channels of amplifiers and I can still hear it. Its either coming from the head unit or the Burmester amp.
#138
It's the LED strip in the door that rattles.................
Hi all,
on 11-22-2018 I posted a message explaining/showing where to put 2 pieces of isolation foam to solve the problem.
Though it reduced the rattle for a couple of weeks, the disaster came back...
During many hours of internet search I bounced upon a message suggesting it could have got something to do with the LED strip in the door.
Today I had a closer look and found out that the LED strip actually isn't glued or anything. It's just kept in it's metal support rail with a little bit of pressure. So little that I'm surprised it doesn't fall out on a bumpy road - but then again the things weighs barely anything.
I pried it down only a couple of millimeters above the back end of the inner door handle (= about in the middle of the LED strip) so that it hangs out of it's rail at that place. As it's only a couple of mm, you hardly notice.
After doing so I tested with different pieces of music that usually trigger the rattling, and also with several calls to my voice mail where the computer voice ALWAYS caused rattling. I coulnd't hear any rattling anymore, at any volume.
You might want to give this a try. It's done in 10 seconds and if it doesn't work for you then you just push up the LED strip so that it snaps into place again.
This is what it now look like. As you never look from that angle, in fact you don't notice at all.
Below the Burmester speaker the LED is fully in it's rail. To the left it hangs out a little bit, and further left it's in its rail again.
on 11-22-2018 I posted a message explaining/showing where to put 2 pieces of isolation foam to solve the problem.
Though it reduced the rattle for a couple of weeks, the disaster came back...
During many hours of internet search I bounced upon a message suggesting it could have got something to do with the LED strip in the door.
Today I had a closer look and found out that the LED strip actually isn't glued or anything. It's just kept in it's metal support rail with a little bit of pressure. So little that I'm surprised it doesn't fall out on a bumpy road - but then again the things weighs barely anything.
I pried it down only a couple of millimeters above the back end of the inner door handle (= about in the middle of the LED strip) so that it hangs out of it's rail at that place. As it's only a couple of mm, you hardly notice.
After doing so I tested with different pieces of music that usually trigger the rattling, and also with several calls to my voice mail where the computer voice ALWAYS caused rattling. I coulnd't hear any rattling anymore, at any volume.
You might want to give this a try. It's done in 10 seconds and if it doesn't work for you then you just push up the LED strip so that it snaps into place again.
This is what it now look like. As you never look from that angle, in fact you don't notice at all.
Below the Burmester speaker the LED is fully in it's rail. To the left it hangs out a little bit, and further left it's in its rail again.
Last edited by BenzIsTop; 03-21-2019 at 07:27 AM.
#140
MBWorld Fanatic!
I’m not getting exactly what you did with the LED strip? Can you take some close up pics? Thanks man! I’m glad the buzzing is gone for you ...
#141
The tool I used (the pen is just in the picture to give an idea of the size of the tool). It's a tool taken from a laptop repair set, but any "small flat lever" can do e.g. probably also an ice lolly stick or so.
Slide the tool in the rail on the left side of the door handle with the LED strip behind it. Push the tool up gently so that in the next step it can become a lever to push down the LED strip.
Originally I had put the tool more to the left as you can see from the LED strip hanging down to the left of the tool in the picture.
Then rotate the tool up gently so that it pushes the LED strip down. This goes _very_ _very_ easy as the strip isn't glued. No force is needed at all.
I only did this in one location and the LED strip dropped slightly lower over a distance of about 20cm.
*** Disclaimer: you do this at your own risk. I cannot take any responsibility if something goes wrong or breaks. ***
#142
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2015 C300 4Matic Sport
The tool I used (the pen is just in the picture to give an idea of the size of the tool). It's a tool taken from a laptop repair set, but any "small flat lever" can do e.g. probably also an ice lolly stick or so.
Slide the tool in the rail on the left side of the door handle with the LED strip behind it. Push the tool up gently so that in the next step it can become a lever to push down the LED strip.
Originally I had put the tool more to the left as you can see from the LED strip hanging down to the left of the tool in the picture.
Then rotate the tool up gently so that it pushes the LED strip down. This goes _very_ _very_ easy as the strip isn't glued. No force is needed at all.
I only did this in one location and the LED strip dropped slightly lower over a distance of about 20cm.
*** Disclaimer: you do this at your own risk. I cannot take any responsibility if something goes wrong or breaks. ***
About $10 on Amazon.
Metal and trim should never meet. 😃