Xpel or Opticoat
10-03-2016, 03:40 PM
#26
Member
C21bill - don't recall from the thread what color your car is. Trust me, if it's black then all the protective efforts you're getting will be worth it.
FYI - below is my weekly process for maintenance. It may seem a bit OCD at first, and it's not for everyone - but if you hang around with guys with top end cars this is nothing compared to what they do!
Below are my general tips for what I do weekly. My car has had multi-stage paint correction, OptiCoat and full 3M clear bra. I spend about four hours every week on my car. Longer when necessary. For a quick wash it'll only take 90- min or so. 5-bucket method using 4 buckets with grit guards. Use warm water and Detailer's Xtreme Foam Formula Auto Shampoo. Three dedicated MF wash mitts.
1 - Power wash car to remove loose surface dirt and grit.
2 - Wash wheels, tires & wheel wells first: Pre-spray wheels with Sonax Wheel Cleaner. In first bucket of Detailer's Xtreme Foam, use Daytona Speed Master PRO Wheel Brush to clean spokes and wheel rims. First MF mitt to clean wheel face. Tire bush to clean both sides of tire. Handle brush to scrub wheel well. Rinse.
3 - The dirt belt (wash area around the vehicle from the side trim down): Two new buckets of Detailer's Xteme foam and grit guards. Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using second MF mitt and two buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from side trim down - never move from dirty back to clean but always from clean to dirty. Rinse.
4 - Wash entire vehicle from top down: Another two clean buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam. Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using third MF mitt and two clean buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from top down - again, never move from dirty back to clean but from clean to dirty. Rinse.
5 - Drying: OptiCoat and Modesta are highly hydrophobic coatings, and you can dry the vehicle by simply sheeting a stream of water and "pulling" it down the car. Perfectly dry with no water spots. Dedicated leaf blower on low to blow water from trim and crevices, followed by Wolfgang's Detailer Spritz and MF towels dedicated to exterior drying only (more "patting" than actual drying). The less "touching" you do to your car the better. Never MF a car without some form of detail spritz or waterless wash.
Microfiber care. I have a bucket of Detailer's Pro pad rejuvinator sitting by the side. When I finish using a MF towel I throw it in there and let it sit. Perfect for loosening up dirt, wax etc, before you wash. I use Detailer Pro Micro Fiber Restorer Detergent and distilled white vinegar in the rinse well (do not forget to use the vinegar)! Do not wash MF with any other fabrics. Separate your MF based on their use. Separate loads for buffing polishing MF and cleaning/interior/leather MF. Wash three times on hottest setting, i.e., Sanitize! AIR DRY ONLY, without a dryer sheet. Periodically you'll begin to notice your MF becomes water repellant. Indication that it's time to really clean them. The best method is to use boiling water. I use the Detailer's Pro pad rejuvinator, and fill a 5 gal bucket with boiling water and let my towels soak for about 15 minutes. After washing the towels are soft, and hydrophilic, like new.
All of this takes some time. Far more than your average schmo who walks out on a Saturday morning with a sponge, bucket and a chamois. But if you've just spent a few thousand dollars on having your finish brought to perfection - you're the type who will appreciate the results. If you use this method there is absolutely no risk of introducing scratches or swirls, and your car will look showroom perfect for years to come. Best of luck!
FYI - below is my weekly process for maintenance. It may seem a bit OCD at first, and it's not for everyone - but if you hang around with guys with top end cars this is nothing compared to what they do!
Below are my general tips for what I do weekly. My car has had multi-stage paint correction, OptiCoat and full 3M clear bra. I spend about four hours every week on my car. Longer when necessary. For a quick wash it'll only take 90- min or so. 5-bucket method using 4 buckets with grit guards. Use warm water and Detailer's Xtreme Foam Formula Auto Shampoo. Three dedicated MF wash mitts.
1 - Power wash car to remove loose surface dirt and grit.
2 - Wash wheels, tires & wheel wells first: Pre-spray wheels with Sonax Wheel Cleaner. In first bucket of Detailer's Xtreme Foam, use Daytona Speed Master PRO Wheel Brush to clean spokes and wheel rims. First MF mitt to clean wheel face. Tire bush to clean both sides of tire. Handle brush to scrub wheel well. Rinse.
3 - The dirt belt (wash area around the vehicle from the side trim down): Two new buckets of Detailer's Xteme foam and grit guards. Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using second MF mitt and two buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from side trim down - never move from dirty back to clean but always from clean to dirty. Rinse.
4 - Wash entire vehicle from top down: Another two clean buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam. Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using third MF mitt and two clean buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from top down - again, never move from dirty back to clean but from clean to dirty. Rinse.
5 - Drying: OptiCoat and Modesta are highly hydrophobic coatings, and you can dry the vehicle by simply sheeting a stream of water and "pulling" it down the car. Perfectly dry with no water spots. Dedicated leaf blower on low to blow water from trim and crevices, followed by Wolfgang's Detailer Spritz and MF towels dedicated to exterior drying only (more "patting" than actual drying). The less "touching" you do to your car the better. Never MF a car without some form of detail spritz or waterless wash.
Microfiber care. I have a bucket of Detailer's Pro pad rejuvinator sitting by the side. When I finish using a MF towel I throw it in there and let it sit. Perfect for loosening up dirt, wax etc, before you wash. I use Detailer Pro Micro Fiber Restorer Detergent and distilled white vinegar in the rinse well (do not forget to use the vinegar)! Do not wash MF with any other fabrics. Separate your MF based on their use. Separate loads for buffing polishing MF and cleaning/interior/leather MF. Wash three times on hottest setting, i.e., Sanitize! AIR DRY ONLY, without a dryer sheet. Periodically you'll begin to notice your MF becomes water repellant. Indication that it's time to really clean them. The best method is to use boiling water. I use the Detailer's Pro pad rejuvinator, and fill a 5 gal bucket with boiling water and let my towels soak for about 15 minutes. After washing the towels are soft, and hydrophilic, like new.
All of this takes some time. Far more than your average schmo who walks out on a Saturday morning with a sponge, bucket and a chamois. But if you've just spent a few thousand dollars on having your finish brought to perfection - you're the type who will appreciate the results. If you use this method there is absolutely no risk of introducing scratches or swirls, and your car will look showroom perfect for years to come. Best of luck!
10-04-2016, 12:04 AM
#27
Super Member
As a general quide;
Coatings are well suited to those that DO understand car maintenance and can prevent induced damage through poor washing technique..... a swirled coating looks as crap as a swirled waxed or sealed panal, BUT takes more work to bring back (you need to polish the old coating off, do the necessary prep and then re-apply the coating... About the easiest to use and apply current is the McKees 37 paint coating, not persceptbly better looking or lasting than many other coatings (eg 2yrs protection possible, they all look stunning when done properly) but its greatest benefit; so very easy to use and reasonably priced that doing it yourself is practically mandatory..
Many other coatings require specific prep and surface prep steps and have nuances re application which needd to be understood before doing.. eng temp humidity considerations, flash off times before removing high spots.. best suited maintenance products and protocals etc... A lot of this isn't at the front of folks minds until they are half way through applying...
For regular folks a good washing techniques and any of the longer lasting sealants or hybrid waxes are a good fit.. swirls can be buffed out and another layer of sealant slapped on.. examples, Collinite 845 or 476s... Sonax PNS, Finish Kare Fk1000p... there are so many... find what suits your needs and climate and skill is locally available etc and most importantly use it regulalry.... .
All the ebst with whatever you choose.. just remember no product slapped on poorly prepped paint will look good....
Folks that really want the best possible finish clean and decontaminate the paint then wet sand, multistage polish, jewel and then and only then worry about the LSP....
Hope any of that was helpful
Coatings are well suited to those that DO understand car maintenance and can prevent induced damage through poor washing technique..... a swirled coating looks as crap as a swirled waxed or sealed panal, BUT takes more work to bring back (you need to polish the old coating off, do the necessary prep and then re-apply the coating... About the easiest to use and apply current is the McKees 37 paint coating, not persceptbly better looking or lasting than many other coatings (eg 2yrs protection possible, they all look stunning when done properly) but its greatest benefit; so very easy to use and reasonably priced that doing it yourself is practically mandatory..
Many other coatings require specific prep and surface prep steps and have nuances re application which needd to be understood before doing.. eng temp humidity considerations, flash off times before removing high spots.. best suited maintenance products and protocals etc... A lot of this isn't at the front of folks minds until they are half way through applying...
For regular folks a good washing techniques and any of the longer lasting sealants or hybrid waxes are a good fit.. swirls can be buffed out and another layer of sealant slapped on.. examples, Collinite 845 or 476s... Sonax PNS, Finish Kare Fk1000p... there are so many... find what suits your needs and climate and skill is locally available etc and most importantly use it regulalry.... .
All the ebst with whatever you choose.. just remember no product slapped on poorly prepped paint will look good....
Folks that really want the best possible finish clean and decontaminate the paint then wet sand, multistage polish, jewel and then and only then worry about the LSP....
Hope any of that was helpful
