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I recently obtained a quote to install some Xpel on the front end of my new C300 and wanted some opinions on weather it is worth the investment. I plan to have Opticoat installed on my car and I'm thinking the Xpel may be a bit of overkill. Opinions, experience much appreciated.
Bill
I recently obtained a quote to install some Xpel on the front end of my new C300 and wanted some opinions on weather it is worth the investment. I plan to have Opticoat installed on my car and I'm thinking the Xpel may be a bit of overkill. Opinions, experience much appreciated.
Bill
As I understand it, Opticoat is an applied sealant which, like others, would likely need reapplication over time. Xpel, which I have on my car, is a permanent clear film. Xpel provides the protection against stones and stains from bugs/tree sap to a greater degree than an applied sealant. It is also a self-healing material. Xpel is guaranteed for 10 years and has a remarkable clarity/colorlessness which exceeds 3Ms best at this point. My suggestion would be to have the Xpel applied on the untreated paint first. I apply my own sealant by hand (Menzerna Power Lock), as one does need to exercise some care at the edge of the Xpel (or any other film). I have Xpel on half hood/fenders, full fascia, headlamps/fog lamps, mirror caps, and paid $1,100. I was fortunate to find a meticulous artist/installer for Xpel. Check around....you do want an experienced hand involved.
I've got a good friend in the high-end detail business. Modesta is the new gold standard. Both of my Benzos were done with OptiCoat. After two years it looks as good as new, and that's on a nine year old car! Modesta puts down a glossier finish, both Opticoat and Modesta provide a tough protective seal - not bullet proof but it'll keep 99% of scratches from making it to your clear coat. Also had a 3M clear bra installed. Nearly invisible and a lifesaver with a black car. Paid a little over $3K for multi-stage paint correction, OptiCoat and the clear bra.
I'm no expert, esp with white vehicles - but from what I've seen, if properly installed they are near invisible. Xpel is the sealant not the clear bra. My car has a 3M clear bra with OptiCoat on top. They have new films which are supposed to be better. I'll ask my buddy about the new films and white cars and post up what he's got to say.
Allow me to correct my ignorance - Xpel clear film wrap. Too early in the morning, not enough coffee yet. I'm still waiting to hear back from my buddy, but if I recall, they do full body wraps in Xpel. My bust.
How do the clear bras like xpel look on white cars. I'm wondering if u just did the front if the glossiness will be even with the white roof and rear
You may wish to see it to be convinced. In the showroom, the dealer had a white car on display with Xpel. It was hard to even see it was applied at first. I know on my car, I sometimes lose sight of the edge when washing and have to re-orient my line of sight to pick it up. In short, they've done an excellent job with product development.
You may wish to see it to be convinced. In the showroom, the dealer had a white car on display with Xpel. It was hard to even see it was applied at first. I know on my car, I sometimes lose sight of the edge when washing and have to re-orient my line of sight to pick it up. In short, they've done an excellent job with product development.
Thanks. Over time, it may look slightly different. Especially, if the xpel is nice an shiny vs. the rest of your paint. That is what I'm worried about.
'08 BMW 335i Coupe '15 E400 Sedan '25 CLE 53 Coupe
From my study on this ..
XPEL paint protective film (PPF) should be applied first - best when the car is new and free of paint imperfections and road incurred defects. The installer is critical for optimum results.
Glass type treatments like Opti Coat Pro or CQuartz Finest can then be applied over the installed PPF and on the uncovered bodywork. XPEL covers this on their FAQ page:
Went with CQF here - may be slightly less durable than OCP but reportedly offers superior UV protection. Note that PPF like XPEL have no UV protection - a good thing in that the covered/uncovered surfaces will "fade" at the same rate.
The differences between CQF and OCP are discussed at length online - both products offer great results. From my short experience - CQF is the most remarkable finish I have seen - nothing sticks. Also had the wheels coated - the brake dust that does adhere washes off very easily.
Like PPF - these quartz finishes need to be applied over clean surfaces - a good detailer/installer will correct paint imperfections first. Was surprised to see all the scratches and defects in the new E400 as delivered - gone now.
Also - PPF will scratch - and precautions need to be taken (OCP or CQF coating over the film helps minimize scratches/swirling). I hand wash the car (two-bucket method) and always remind the dealer not to wash it. Machine car washes are a thing of the past.
The good news is that once treated with CQF - it doesn't seem to need washing as often - and when it does it's a breeze.
J.
Last edited by J.Raymond; Jan 18, 2015 at 04:43 PM.
Reason: grammar
How do the clear bras like xpel look on white cars. I'm wondering if u just did the front if the glossiness will be even with the white roof and rear
You can see the edge of the clear bra in this pic...
Here's another where you can see the edge...
Hope this helps...this PPF is called nano fusion. I did front fascia headlights, side mirrors as well as right behind the wheel wells (front & rear) I won't be adding any splash guards...also did area right outside of the trunk...to protect it when placing groceries or luggage in and out.
Last edited by NYC-Style; Jan 18, 2015 at 08:26 PM.
NYC - the detailer who does my work usually wraps the entire panel, and wraps everywhere possible so you avoid unsightly lines mid-panel or along the edges. If you're willing to pay extra, some shops will actually pull each panel and entirely wrap it.
I got the premium package, plus the wear & tear package. Covers front bumper, entire hood, full left & right quarter panels, a-pillars, mirrors, and windscreen trim. Had the trunk deck and door handle cups done as well.
NYC - the detailer who does my work usually wraps the entire panel, and wraps everywhere possible so you avoid unsightly lines mid-panel or along the edges. If you're willing to pay extra, some shops will actually pull each panel and entirely wrap it.
I got the premium package, plus the wear & tear package. Covers front bumper, entire hood, full left & right quarter panels, a-pillars, mirrors, and windscreen trim. Had the trunk deck and door handle cups done as well.
I was offered a complete wrap but decide against it...I was only interested in protecting the parts susceptible to paint damage. I personally don't find the lines unsightly...
XPEL paint protective film (PPF) should be applied first - best when the car is new and free of paint imperfections and road incurred defects. The installer is critical for optimum results.
Glass type treatments like Opti Coat Pro or CQuartz Finest can then be applied over the installed PPF and on the uncovered bodywork. XPEL covers this on their FAQ page:
Went with CQF here - may be slightly less durable than OCP but reportedly offers superior UV protection. Note that PPF like XPEL have no UV protection - a good thing in that the covered/uncovered surfaces will "fade" at the same rate.
The differences between CQF and OCP are discussed at length online - both products offer great results. From my short experience - CQF is the most remarkable finish I have seen - nothing sticks. Also had the wheels coated - the brake dust that does adhere washes off very easily.
Like PPF - these quartz finishes need to be applied over clean surfaces - a good detailer/installer will correct paint imperfections first. Was surprised to see all the scratches and defects in the new E400 as delivered - gone now.
Also - PPF will scratch - and precautions need to be taken (OCP or CQF coating over the film helps minimize scratches/swirling). I hand wash the car (two-bucket method) and always remind the dealer not to wash it. Machine car washes are a thing of the past.
The good news is that once treated with CQF - it doesn't seem to need washing as often - and when it does it's a breeze.
J.
Can you summarize the difference between Opti Coat Pro or CQuartz Finest (I had to keep scrolling up to see what the letters stand for in your post )? Why did you choose to go with CQuartz at the end?
And with regards to the machine car washes, is it because of the swirls the 'softcloth' leave on cars, or you are against the touch-free ones as well?
I was offered a complete wrap but decide against it...I was only interested in protecting the parts susceptible to paint damage. I personally don't find the lines unsightly...
Check! Understand. A black car isn't a hobby - it's a full time job! So I opted for the full Monty. In the end I'm glad I did!
Ahhhhh - robo washes! Go take a look in the car care and detailing section on the two bucket method. I use a four bucket method.
Robo washes use recycled water, coating your car with other's dirt, the scrubbers induce scratches, and the towel dry - might as well use sand paper!
If that's all it is, I can live with recycled water in the touchless carwashes. The car won't stay pristine for long anyways, once driven.
I used to wash my first car by hand, but I haven't had the patience to do it anymore in a decade, and in the past several years, often wouldn't have the time for it either (and certainly not the required frequency in winter in a salt-ridden country like Canada)
mihaelb - cars are like women, to each his own and vive le difference! After spending north of $3K on getting the paint correction and protectants, it's still worth my while to not only hand wash, but detail wash my car. I easily spend 5 hours a week on detailing. Some play golf, others drive cars. Gladys doesn't get driven in the rain unless its an accident, and once the first salt truck makes its arrival she's put up for the winter - that's why my other vehicle is a nasty old Chevy Tahoe!
mihaelb - cars are like women, to each his own and vive le difference! After spending north of $3K on getting the paint correction and protectants, it's still worth my while to not only hand wash, but detail wash my car. I easily spend 5 hours a week on detailing. Some play golf, others drive cars. Gladys doesn't get driven in the rain unless its an accident, and once the first salt truck makes its arrival she's put up for the winter - that's why my other vehicle is a nasty old Chevy Tahoe!
Well, Gladys definitely looks like its well cared-for
I was just wondering about the reasoning for the car wash thing...
Seems like this thread turned into a discussion of different car colors but I do appreciate the relevant opinions on Xpel and Opticoat. I decided I'd do the Xpel front end kit + front bumper, headlights, door edges and door handle cups then have the whole car Opticoated. My car should arrive in 2 more weeks.
Thanks again.
C21bill - don't recall from the thread what color your car is. Trust me, if it's black then all the protective efforts you're getting will be worth it.
FYI - below is my weekly process for maintenance. It may seem a bit OCD at first, and it's not for everyone - but if you hang around with guys with top end cars this is nothing compared to what they do!
Below are my general tips for what I do weekly. My car has had multi-stage paint correction, OptiCoat and full 3M clear bra. I spend about four hours every week on my car. Longer when necessary. For a quick wash it'll only take 90- min or so. 5-bucket method using 4 buckets with grit guards. Use warm water and Detailer's Xtreme Foam Formula Auto Shampoo. Three dedicated MF wash mitts.
1 - Power wash car to remove loose surface dirt and grit.
2 - Wash wheels, tires & wheel wells first: Pre-spray wheels with Sonax Wheel Cleaner. In first bucket of Detailer's Xtreme Foam, use Daytona Speed Master PRO Wheel Brush to clean spokes and wheel rims. First MF mitt to clean wheel face. Tire bush to clean both sides of tire. Handle brush to scrub wheel well. Rinse.
3 - The dirt belt (wash area around the vehicle from the side trim down): Two new buckets of Detailer's Xteme foam and grit guards. Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using second MF mitt and two buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from side trim down - never move from dirty back to clean but always from clean to dirty. Rinse.
4 - Wash entire vehicle from top down: Another two clean buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam. Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using third MF mitt and two clean buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from top down - again, never move from dirty back to clean but from clean to dirty. Rinse.
5 - Drying: OptiCoat and Modesta are highly hydrophobic coatings, and you can dry the vehicle by simply sheeting a stream of water and "pulling" it down the car. Perfectly dry with no water spots. Dedicated leaf blower on low to blow water from trim and crevices, followed by Wolfgang's Detailer Spritz and MF towels dedicated to exterior drying only (more "patting" than actual drying). The less "touching" you do to your car the better. Never MF a car without some form of detail spritz or waterless wash.
Microfiber care. I have a bucket of Detailer's Pro pad rejuvinator sitting by the side. When I finish using a MF towel I throw it in there and let it sit. Perfect for loosening up dirt, wax etc, before you wash. I use Detailer Pro Micro Fiber Restorer Detergent and distilled white vinegar in the rinse well (do not forget to use the vinegar)! Do not wash MF with any other fabrics. Separate your MF based on their use. Separate loads for buffing polishing MF and cleaning/interior/leather MF. Wash three times on hottest setting, i.e., Sanitize! AIR DRY ONLY, without a dryer sheet. Periodically you'll begin to notice your MF becomes water repellant. Indication that it's time to really clean them. The best method is to use boiling water. I use the Detailer's Pro pad rejuvinator, and fill a 5 gal bucket with boiling water and let my towels soak for about 15 minutes. After washing the towels are soft, and hydrophilic, like new.
All of this takes some time. Far more than your average schmo who walks out on a Saturday morning with a sponge, bucket and a chamois. But if you've just spent a few thousand dollars on having your finish brought to perfection - you're the type who will appreciate the results. If you use this method there is absolutely no risk of introducing scratches or swirls, and your car will look showroom perfect for years to come. Best of luck!
Wow FFXF1, you are truly a dedicated car owner. That's not me and that's why I am planning on the Opticoat, to make cleaning easier. My car is coming in Paladium Silver.
Like I said - it's not for everyone! But - you need to be aware that OptiCoat or any other exterior finish will scratch and swirl just like your clear coat without a little extra care, and in one season will look like you never applied anything. As long as you know what you're getting before you drop big bucks - but it's not going to get you a bulletproof finish. FYI.
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)? Why did you choose to go with CQuartz at the end?
