Active LED headlights
My E class has static LED low beams and halogen high beams. Didn't realize the impact it would have on me when I was buying it. The result is that now I've stopped flashing people (I mean high beams)
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My daily driver is a W203 with Halogens, and the family car is W251 with Bi-Xenons (self-leveling, turning, even comes with cornering fog lamps) i'm genuinely curious as to the night driving difference the W205 Active LEDs will be.
Appreciate your thoughts and feedback, even video links if any.
Thanks in advance.
My daily driver is a W203 with Halogens, and the family car is W251 with Bi-Xenons (self-leveling, turning, even comes with cornering fog lamps) i'm genuinely curious as to the night driving difference the W205 Active LEDs will be.
Appreciate your thoughts and feedback, even video links if any.
Thanks in advance.
The problem with the W205 headlights is that the low beam cutoff is very low and sharp. The lights is also too sensitive to even the very dim streetlights we have in this area. The roads I drive are rolling, with short, but medium-steep hills. So the lights are often kept in low beam by the streetlights. Then neither the headlights nor the streetlights are lighting the road very far ahead (especially when approaching a hill).
On the whole, the lights of the W205 are a worthwhile improvement. The automatic feature is very important to me. It makes a big reduction in driver workload on the narrow, winding, hilly roads I often drive. But if any one knows whether the dealer can adjust the height of the low beam cutoff or the sensitivity of the automatic dipping, please speak up.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
The basic question is about how good the LED lights are on this car. I find them to be a mixed bag ... really good sometimes, and not so good other times. As others have noted, the low beams do not reach very far out. The high beams are very good, but their real advantage is in lighting up reflective signs and markers. At even far distances, any reflective road sign just sparkles. Overall though, I would rate the LED headlights as very good, but not as good as some other systems. The Xenon lights on my Porsche are brighter and reach further out. My last sedan, a Volvo S60, also had Xenons and they were at least as good as the LED's used by Mercedes.
So, in my mountainous rural environment, where most roads are unlit, I'd say the base LED system is certainly adequate but not really outstanding or "best in class."
...if any one knows whether the dealer can adjust the height of the low beam cutoff or the sensitivity of the automatic dipping, please speak up.
In "low beam," the cutoff of the active LED headlights is so sharp that the effect is as if a mechanical shutter is coming down in front of the beam. As delivered, the cutoff intersects the road a very short distance in front of the car. (StanNH, as they come from the dealer, these lights would have actually been unsafe on your mountain roads!)
THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT PROPER DEALER ADJUSTMENT CAN GREATLY IMPROVE THESE ACTIVE LED HEADLIGHTS! The active LED headlights are not user adjustable. So says my service advisor, and I cannot find any hole for a tool. (Perhaps jorgetav is referring to the fixed LED headlights.) So I asked my dealer to adjust my headlights up to the legal limit. I also asked them to reduce the sensitivity to streetlights, if that was a separate setting. (I did not find out if it was.) It turned out that, as delivered, the cutoffs on my "low beam" lights were much lower than the legal limit. That must be the factory setting, because the cutoffs of the "low beam" headlights on a recent loaner 2015 E-Class were even lower and closer.
THE ADJUSTMENT MADE A HUGE DIFFERENCE! I no longer feel as if I am driving under a low-hanging bank of black fog. If my lights dim for a streetlight, it is usually because the streetlight is bright enough to light the road adequately. Then the dimming is seamless; I do not notice it, and I am not distracted. Even if the lights dim for a streetlight that is not bright enough to light the road adequately, the cutoff is a far enough distant that I am not out-driving my headlights.
So far, no driver has blinked his lights at me! When I follow smaller cars, the cutoff is right at the bottom edge of the rear window. So I try to hang back, but the maximum following distance setting of my Distronic Plus seems to be okay.
this may help: http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/mercedes-news/163847-w205-c-class-press-release-3.html
Last edited by ManiacGT; Dec 12, 2016 at 03:28 PM.

My comments on NZ driving situation on single carriageway where we are dipping all the time on narrow winding roads:
Auto-dip: really great, as others have said reduces the load and mostly a very quick response time. I have had some situations where the opposing cars dipped lights are so rubbish that they dont trigger the beam detect! Still if they flick to beam mine immediately drop down!
I am finding the speed to return to beam a little slow at high driving speeds and corner coming. I will fill in with a flash of beam if needed as others suggest. But putting up the lows will probably go part way on this.
Split beam and auto ranging and the box of blackness that means the car in front going the same way gets no annoyance but you can shine light actually past their car along the sides of the road (both if nonone coming other way) is nothing short of fabulous. The sharpness of cutoff on these things is staggering, and seeing the box of blackness autosize dynamically as you and the other driver move around the road is both entertaining and very very clever.
This is so much of a game changer in illumination that even if you don't like everything about them, I can guarantee you WILL be glad you chose them.
Even dimming the stupidly big and over-reflective road warnings designed for people who have either no vision or attention to surroundings, is a very handy feature. On my W203 halogens I used to have to go to dip to see around drive around such corners.
The auto range and use of corner direction means at every moment its putting light just where needed and not in the face of other drivers. Some others I've driven (mazda) with cornering function that switched on and off were really distracting, this is very continuous and not distracting. You soon fail to notice its doing it.
Light level / beam: Very bright, event brighter at >130kph (or over 110 with not much steering in the last 1km!) This is actually one of the issues with the low beam height - you have such a high level / vision on beam its a huge contrast on dip. Beam lets you see to the tops of trees / power poles and road reflectors etc as far as they go.
I have had a couple of very unusual situations where the system got carried away with a near railway light it thought was a car tailight, and put the light where I didnt want it for a moment, and also trucks here that light themselves up like a fairground confuse a little its looking for just a couple of tailights. So the dipping to reduce mirror glare sometimes doesnt as soon as would be nice.
I drive 2 x 450km commutes a week, after work and about half to all in the dark. Lots of trucks, opposing vehicles pop up at closing speeds or 200kph (2 x 100) and this ILS is a no brainer for me. If you never drive at night of course its no big deal, but if do a bit I'd thoroughly recommend it.
There must be a huge amount of code and processing going on to do this, and I think they have done a great job. Of course one can always find something that maybe could be better, but for the price its a huge bonus to driving comfort and enjoyment.
By now, I am tired of going to the collision shop and the dealer. Both are 25 minutes each way. So I pay my local independent dealer to adjust them. They made them too low. By now, I am bouncing off the walls. I still can't find any pictures in MBWorld showing the location of the adjusters for my model (2015 C300 4MATIC Luxury). However, I notice the appearance of the adjusters for another model and spot the same adjusters in my car. They are white nylon discs with concave tops about 3/8" across. They don't stick up; they are flush with the surface. They take a 5.5 mm. bit or a large regular screw driver.
The passenger side adjuster was easy to find, once I knew what it looked like. It is not on or near the headlight assembly. It is between the headlight assembly and the engine, fairly low down. The driver side adjuster was so hard to find that I had difficulty finding it again, even after I had found it the first time! I had to look straight down on the engine compartment, eyeball the passenger side adjuster, calculate its "latitude and longitude" (relative to the engine compartment), and then say to myself, the driver side adjuster must be HERE!
Last edited by Vvvvvv; Mar 17, 2017 at 05:04 PM.
Last edited by Mike5215; Mar 17, 2017 at 10:49 PM.
Static LEDs works very well. >In my opinion<, expend 900EUR+ to get Intelligent lights makes no senses :P there is not much difference in brightness.
My first post ^^
Last edited by FullDISK; Mar 18, 2017 at 01:35 PM.



