I want to add a RoadCam and prefer to use a hidden additional power take off, rather than have it constantly plugged into the central 'ash tray' power socket, necessitating leaving the cover permanently open. I have bought an additional power socket intending to hide it under the dash and have also bought a blade 15amp fuse power take-off lead, hoping to run it from a suitable spare 'Ignition controlled' fuse point from either the interior fuse box or rear fuse box, I have tried both without success. I can only find 'permanent' power spare power slot in both of these fuse boxes (although I'd prefer to use the interior fuse box, because its nearer), but I know one of the rear 15amp fuses protects the (ignition controlled) interior power socket, so I can't understand why the same fuse array appears to remain permanently on. I have no wish to invalidate MB warranty by trying splicing into any wires and thought the fuse box 'take-off' option was the best solution. Any ideas what to try next?

 

http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

All this does is put a pin hole in the wire insulation. Does less damage than a blade tap that tends to open the fuse panel connector making the fuse loose in the event you remove the tap.

Also, warranty denial in the case of a wire tap is pretty far fetched. Your splice would have to be the definite cause of failure for whatever you're trying to warranty.

 

Also occurs to me that perhaps all the fuses appear to be constantly energized because the car holds switched accessories on for a period of time. You may want to get out, close the door, and give them time to shut off.

 

Thanks Ibow, I'll check it out, however the next issue I'll have will be identifying and accessing a suitable ignition controlled wire. The obvious candidate would be the current power socket, but that is hidden away in the central control panel and access to which appears a daunting prospect. In my W204 I was able to easily locate second socket in glove box. It was a much simpler job. I check out your point about 'power delay', although with the RoadCam connected to existing power socket, as soon as the ignition is turned on/off, the camera activates or shuts down and there is no delay.

 

12V socket in ashtray, easy to access and can handle high amps if needed.

 

Hi Vic thanks for reply, I cannot see any obvious way to access power socket, there are no visible fixings. Any advice for removal/access without damage would be be appreciated.

 

You need to remove the centre console, remove the silver bracket in front of the armrest, remove two screws and tilt the entire console upwards, takes 2 minutes.

 

Thanks for prompt response, I'll check it out

 

Nimrod01, I see you are in the UK so your car is a little different than my left hand drive, but I just installed my radar detector to an ignition controlled empty fuse socket in the inside drivers side (for me) fuse box, socket #217. Working great. Powers up as soon as I press the start button and cuts off when I shut the car down. Was easy to run the wire to and hide it also.

 

Thanks Kartergreg,
My car has a fuse panel in lower left hand 'passenger' side panel, so will seek to locate & check out socket 217. That's where I had hoped to find an ignition controlled fuse. Thanks your response.

 

@Kartergreg
It doesn't look like 217 can accept a fuse? Is there an adapter you have to get in order to use that spot?

 

I agree that from your photo, it certainly doesn't look like there is any provision to accept a 'conventional' blade fuse and I've no idea if a manufacture's adapter is available, however it may just be possible to make a 'safe connection' as there appears to be a slot between the two copper contacts that looks same size as a single pin from a standard blade fuse. With some improvisation a suitably insulated take off is possible, but I have yet to try it out. Above all its very important for the connection to be a secure fit and a reliable contact....? I'll check it out and report back.

 

In my case I used a male spade connector attached to an inline fuse.

 

I'm assuming this is what is needed for that fuse (SAM connector). From what I've read, its best practice to use a white one for switched power, although I'm not sure if that slot is switched.

You guys used that slot and verified it is switched power?

I have to go to the dealership today anyway, so I may just pick up a SAM connector while I'm there.

 

I cannot locate the interior (cockpit) fusebox with 217 fuse point. Mine's a 'righthand drive' UK spec W205. I can see the interior fuse box situated in the left side passenger foot well, but no other that according to MB fuse guide is on driver's side. I've been on to MB Dealership and they 'so far' haven't come up with the answer.

 

Local MB dealership eventually got back to me and said they 'thought' the cockpit fuses should be accessed on UK cars on driver's (offside) side, under a recessed cover clipped on the end of the dashboard. Although their Mercedes schematic computer image had indicated to them it was on 'left hand' side. MB clearly make no provision for Right-handed cars - hence explained their doubt. I had already had the nearside end dashboard cover off during my initial search, so had some idea how the covers are fixed. Given the info from the dealer, I decided to give it another go. I believe my previous attempts had required far too much force for my comfort and I was in danger of causing physical damage to the trim cover, as I could not gain sufficient purchase under the trim and had showed no sign of moving. I found getting the 'trim removal' levers under the outer edge of the off-side cover very difficult, due to its design set within deeply recessed borders. The passenger side was far easier as the the glove box could be opened to improve access. I think it important to stress that this should not be attempted with hard metal levers which due to the tightness of the fastenings will surely cause damage or deface the plastic trim. I started at the front lower edge and worked cautiously up towards the front. I slowly engaged the tip of the nylon prizing lever into the lower recess and with the help of a second lever, managed to get enough purchase to apply quite a lot of force under the outer edge of the cover using both levers. I had parked the car for an hour in the sunshine on the offside with the door open to effectively warm up the plastic trim before starting, as I was concerned that attempting this brutal process in cold conditions might lead to damage due to plastic being brittle. Eventually the 2 friction grip fasteners released their hold and I was able to snap open the cover, effectively hinging it vertically from the door pillar trim to fully reveal the cockpit fuse assembly. I tested the locations and found an ignition activated 'spare' slot, as probably suggested by 'Kartergreg' in an earlier post above, but in my car it was marked '19261' and was able to make my own, rather simply 'improvised' (10amp) blade fuse 'take-off' and connect a spare power plug secreted on the passenger side behind the glove box. The negative was connected to the lower pillar ground terminal in the (nearside) foot well. Getting the positive feed wire behind the dash and instruments, across and behind the centre console was no easy matter. However it was achievable using a sufficiently long and flexible plastic probe then using it to hook the wire through. I have now added photos showing the fuse position and my improvised power take-off -



.

 

Thanks for this... I am also VERY scared of damaging the plastic. Is there anyway that you could take pictures of the door side trim and show how it's attached? This way, I would visually be able to see where to pry and not cause any damage to the plastic?

THANKS in advance!

 

Guys where can i get one of

these

 

I got mine here: smart-stuff.co.uk